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TIP OF THE DAY: Spain’s Great Red Grape For National Tempranillo Day

November 8th is International Tempranillo Day—the best known grape and red wine varietal in Spain (the holiday is celebrated on the second Sunday in November).

Its name is the diminutive form of the Spanish word temprano, which means early.

It was so named because the Tempranillo (temp-rah-NEE-yo) grape ripens, and is harvested, several weeks earlier than most Spanish red grapes.

The wine is full-bodied, with rich aromas and predominantly cherry fruit, plus plums, figs and strawberries in older wines.

Depending on where the grapes are grown, it has earthy flavors such as cedar, cloves, leather and tobacco.

The wine has a medium tannic backbone and moderate acidity.

If you like Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese, you’ll like Tempranillo. It is typically aged in American oak, contributing vanilla and spicy notes (can you detect a hint of cinnamon?).

You can get a good Crianza level—a wine aged 2 years with with 6 months in oak, for less than $20.00. A decent Tempranillo can be found in the $10 range.

The Reserva wines (aged 3 years with 1 year in oak) and Gran Reserva wines (aged a minimum of 5 years before release with at least 18 months in oak) are more expensive.

If the bottle doesn’t carry any of these labels, it’s meant for early consumption (i.e., drink it soon).

> The history of Tempranillo is below.

> The year’s 25+ red wine holidays.

> The year’s 11 Spanish food holidays celebrated in the U.S.
 
 
HOW TO PAIR TEMPRANILLO WINES WITH FOOD

Wines typically pair best with the foods of their region. But Tempranillo can easily leave Iberia and pair well foods from around the globe.

  • Anywhere: braises, charcuterie, chicken/duck/goose, game, grilled meats and poultry, mushrooms, smoked foods (including ham and smoked cheeses, chorizo and other sausages), stews, stronger fish.
  • Italy: pasta, pizza and anything with a tomato-based sauce (including calamari).
  • Morocco: tagines.
  • U.S.: barbecue, burgers, Cajun dishes (e.g. jambalaya), lamb and pork chops and roasts, polenta and other dishes made with corn, steak.
  • Mexico: burritos, chiles rellenos (stuffed peppers), chili, nachos, tacos.
  •  
    The younger wines are fruitier and pair well brats and other sausages, plus chicken wings. The California wines tend to be fruiter, and can be paired with salmon and tuna.

    If you want to crack a bottle for an apéritif or snack, serve it with classic Spanish accompaniments:

  • Serrano ham (Spain’s version of Prosciutto)
  • Manchego cheese
  • Green olives
  •  
     
    TEMPRANILLO HISTORY

    While many grape varietals were transported from their region of origin to other parts of the world, the Tempranillo grape is indigenous to the Rioja area of Spain.

    The wild vines of its parent grapes were cultivated some 2,000 years ago, and the locals have been wine ever since.

    Tempranillo is mostly grown in three regions* of Spain: in La Rioja plus Navarra and the Ribero del Duero district in the Burgos province in the region of Castilla y Léon.

    It is used in red wine blends from these areas, as well as in single varietal bottlings.

    Spain has 80% of the Tempranillo vineyards worldwide. In 2015, Tempranillo was the third most widely planted wine grape variety worldwide (source).

    But it is planted the world over: in Argentina, Australia, New Zealand, Portugal, South Africa, South America, the U.S., and a few other countries.
     
    ________________

    *What we call wine regions are called autonomous communities in Spain. There are also provinces.

     


    [1] There are a number of Tempranillo wines made in California (photo © Wedding Oak Winery).


    [2] A cluster of Tempranillo on the vine (photo © Sergi Arjona | Dreamstime).

    A Plate Of Filet Mignon With Red Wine
    [3] Filet mignon and other fine beef merits a Reserva or Gran Reserva Tempranillo (photo © Ruth’s Chris Steak House).

    Moroccan Chicken Recipe
    [4] Braised Moroccan Chicken With Green Olives. Here’s the recipe. (photo © Good Eggs).

     
     
     

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    RECIPE: Maple Pumpkin Spice Popcorn


    [1] Popcorn with fall flavors: maple syrup and pumpkin pie spice (photo © Popcorn Board).


    [2] Pumpkin pie spice (photo © Silk Road Spices).

     

    Here’s some seasonal fun: popcorn with seasonal ingredients. Thanks to The Popcorn Board for the recipe.
     
     
    RECIPE #1: MAPLE PUMPKIN SPICE POPCORN

    Ingredients

  • 2 tablespoons brown sugar
  • 2 tablespoons maple syrup
  • 1-1/2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice (photo #2, or recipe below)
  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • Optional: 1/2 cup chopped pecans
  • 5 cups popped popcorn
  •  
    Preparation

    1. COMBINE the brown sugar, maple syrup and pumpkin pie spice in a large saucepan or pot, and heat over medium heat. Cook, stirring, for 3 minutes or until the sugar is dissolved and mixture is bubbling.

    2. ADD the butter and stir until it is melted and well blended into the brown sugar mix. Add the pecans.

    3. POUR over the popcorn and stir until well coated. Allow the mixture to cool before serving.

    4. SERVE, or store in an airtight container.
     

    RECIPE #2: PUMPKIN PIE SPICE

    If you don’t have a pumpkin pie spice blend, it’s easy to make.

    Just whisk these ingredients in a bowl until well combined. Store it in an airtight container.

    Ingredients

  • 3 tablespoons ground cinnamon
  • 2 teaspoons ground ginger
  • 2 teaspoons ground nutmeg
  • 1 teaspoon ground allspice
  • 1 teaspoon ground cloves
  •  

      

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    GIFT: Grounds & Hounds Coffee

    Grounds & Hounds is the perfect coffee brand for dog lovers.

    “Every pound saves a hound,” the company says:

    20% of all profits generated by Grounds & Hounds Coffee Co. are used to fund innovative and impactful rescue programs throughout the country.

    The mission is to eradicate unnecessary animal euthanasia and improve animal welfare, and the money supports organizations with the same missions.

    To raise the money, Grounds & Hounds sells premium coffee, in your choice of ground, K-Cup Pods or whole bean.

    The beans are 100% Fair Trade and 100% Organic Certified, sourced from the top growing regions around the world: Colombia, Ethiopia, Guatemala, Mexico, Nicaragua, Papua New Guinea, Peru and Sumatra.

    There are numerous blends and single-origin beans, plus hot chocolate mixes.

    There’s a Coffee Club and gift subscriptions.

    The blended coffees have endearing canine-based names:

  • Alpha Blend
  • Belly Rub Blend
  • Good Boy
  • Hush Puppy (Decaf)
  • Morning Walk
  • Paper & Slippers
  • Rescue Roast
  • Sit & Stay
  • Sunny Spot
  •  
    How can you resist?

    There are also shirts, mugs and other accessories.

    Head to GroundsAndHoundsCoffee.com for good coffee and good deeds.

     


    [1] Buy Grounds & Hounds and help dogs nationwide (both photos © Grounds & Hounds).


    [2] Choose from blends, single origin, beans, ground coffee and K-Cup Pods.

     

      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Brown Butter, Black Butter & How To Use Them

    Chocolate Chip Cookies
    [1] Chocolate chip cookies are even better with brown butter (photo © Bella Baker).


    [2] Brown Butter Parmesan Pasta. Here’s the recipe (photo Joe Lingeman | © The Kitchn).


    [3] Brown butter can be used as an ingredient, for sautéeing, or as a sauce (photos #3 and #4 © Go Bold With Butter).

    The photos that follow show the process of making brown butter.


    [5] It’s easy to make brown butter. When it’s light golden brown, it’s ready.

    Brown Butter Peach & Blackberry Crisp
    [6] A brown butter peach and blackberry crisp. Here’s the recipe (photo © Go Bold With Butter).

     

    Brown butter, or beurre noisette, meaning hazelnut butter in French, is a butter sauce used in French cuisine.

    It is used to give a dish a deeper, richer, more intense flavor than is provided by simpled melted or clarified butter.

    Butter is heated until it reaches a deep yellow, almost brown color, and develops a nutty scent (hence, “hazelnut butter,” even though no nuts are involved).

  • It is a popular way to sauté and sauce fish, meat, omelets, pasta, poultry, vegetables; and on the sweet side, fruit.
  • It is also used in making French pastry like financiers and madeleines.
  •  
    > Instructions to make brown butter are below.

    >The history of brown butter is also below.

    > The different types of butter: a photo glossary.

    > The history of butter.

    > September 22nd is National Brown Butter Day.

    > The year’s 5+ butter holidays are below.
     
     
    BROWN BUTTER VS. BLACK BUTTER

    Black butter is actually dark brown, and brown butter is actually deep yellow, almost brown.

    The color and flavor chemistry behind it involves the Maillard reaction and caramelization of the milk proteins and sugars, transforming simple butter into something much more complex and aromatic.

    Both brown and black variations are cooked over low heat. The difference between brown butter and black butter is how long the butter is cooked.

    For the cook, the question is: How deep do you want the nutty/toasty flavors?

    Both are made by cooking unsalted butter long enough to caramelize the milk solids and turn them brown. The process also cooks out the water present in the butter, to concentrate the flavor.

    As the butter melts, it separates into yellow butterfat and white milk solids. The heavier milk solids sink to the bottom of the pan.

    As the butter cooks, the milk solids begin to brown. When they reach the color desired by the cook, the pan is removed from the heat.

    > There’s also beurre rouge (red butter), which substitutes red wine and vinegar for the white wine and vinegar.
     
     
    EVERYDAY WAYS TO USE BROWN BUTTER

    If butter makes everything taste better, then brown butter makes everything taste even better than that. You get more richness without added calories.

    Add richer flavor to:

  • Baking: especially blondies, cookies, pound cake, tart pastry.
  • Bread spread: biscuits, toast.
  • Caper and/or anchovy sauce: blend in lemon juice and parsley to sauce eggs, fish and vegetables. A great brown butter sauce!
  • Crumble topping: Mix it in to crumbs or granola
  • Eggs: omelets, scrambles (we also use it for blintzes and crêpes).
  • Greens: substitute for olive oil when sautéeing chard, kale, spinach, etc.
  • Pancakes and waffles: add a bit to the batter, cook the pancakes in the butter.
  • Pan-toasted sandwiches: grilled cheese, croque monsieur
  • Pasta and rice for sauce, garnished with fresh herb, peas, bacon, whatever.
  • Popcorn.
  • Poultry and seafood: sautéed in brown butter or poured over as a sauce.
  • Potatoes: baked, boiled, mashed, roasted.
  • Rice and other grains: garnish.
  • Roasted vegetables: toss in brown butter before roasting.
  • Sautéed vegetables: beyond greens, memorable mushrooms and onions.
  • Shellfish: so much better than clarified butter for dipping.
  • Soup: drizzled garnish.
  •  
     
    EVERYDAY WAYS TO USE BLACK BUTTER

    Black butter is usually flavored with tarragon vinegar or lemon juice, capers and parsley and served as a sauce with:

  • Eggs: omelettes or scrambled eggs.
  • Calves’ brains: a dish, alas, that is not served much these days since the spread of Mad Cow Disease, but try it with lambs’ brains.
  • Skate: plus cod and other seafood.
  •  
    To look for black butter recipes online, search under the French term, beurre noir. There is a British spiced apple jam called black butter.
     
     
    HOW TO MAKE BROWN BUTTER

    Thanks to Go Bold With Butter for these easy steps.

    All you need is a unsalted butter and a skillet.

    Why not salted butter? Salted butter tends to foam more than unsalted butter, making it difficult to judge the color change.

    To watch the color change, see photo the strip of photos at the left.

    Preparation

    1. MELT the butter over medium heat. As the butter melts, gently swirl the pan to ensure the butter doesn’t burn.

    2. WATCH for the butter to splutter as the water cooks off. Stir frequently at this stage, when the butter begins to turn a light golden color.

    (The difference between splutter and sputter: Splutter means to spray droplets, while sputter refers to “spraying” when speaking.)

    3. TURN down the heat as the sputtering subsides and the butter will turn into a light foam.

    4. WATCH as the color begins to deepen into a golden color. Notice the small brown bits of milk solids developing at the bottom. You’re almost done!

    5. WATCH for the butter to turn a toasted brown color (photo #4). You’ll smell the nutty aroma. Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the butter to a heat-proof bowl.

    6. COOL before adding to a recipe. Store in a tightly-lidded container in the fridge.
     
     
    THE HISTORY OF BROWN BUTTER

    The technique of making brown butter, or beurre noisette (hazelnut butter in French, so-called for its nutty aroma and color), has a fascinating culinary history rooted in French cooking tradition.

    It likely emerged in French cuisine during the 18th or 19th century as chefs explored different ways to prepare and use butter.

    The French have long been masters of butter-based sauces, and brown butter became part of the classical French chef’s repertoire, particularly in haute cuisine.

     
    The process of cooking butter until the milk solids caramelize, creating a complex, nutty flavor and golden-brown color, was formalized in classical French cooking. It became one of the foundational preparations taught to culinary students.

    Historically, brown butter featured prominently in classic French dishes like:

  • As a sauce for various fish preparations, and vegetables like asparagus or green beans.
  • In raie au beurre noir (skate in black butter) although beurre noir is even more cooked beurre noisette.
  • As a finishing sauce for pastas, including gnocchi.
  •  
    In modern cooking, brown butter has experienced a renaissance, particularly in American baking and cuisine. It’s commonly used in cookies, cakes, and bar cookies like blondies.

    The technique has moved beyond French cuisine into global cooking, where cooks worldwide appreciate the depth of flavor it adds compared to regular melted butter.
     
     
    THE YEAR’S 5+ BUTTER HOLIDAYS

    So many famous foods exist because of butter. A sampling:

  • Baked Goods: butter cakes and cookies, croissants, pastries, puff pastry.
  • Breakfast Foods: biscuits, pancakes, waffles.
  • Desserts & Sweets: buttercream frosting, butterscotch, caramel, fudge, toffee/buttercrunch.
  • Savory Dishes: butter chicken, chicken Kiev, escargot, garlic bread, lobster with drawn butter, mashed potatoes, sauces.
  •  
    Trying to determine what should be celebrated as a “butter holiday” took some thought. There are five holidays in the U.S. where butter is the focus:

  • January 18: National Hot Buttered Rum Day
  • August 23: National Buttered Corn Day
  • September 22: National Brown Butter Day
  • September 25: German Butterbrot Day (Buttered Bread Day)
  • November 17: National Butter Day
  •  
    Additionally, here’s our list of food holidays where another fat simply cannot be substituted for butter without compromising the flavor:

  • January 6: National Shortbread Day
  • January 8: National English Toffee Day
  • January 19: National Popcorn Day
  • January 20: National Buttercrunch Day*
  • January 30: National Croissant Day
  • February 15: National I Want Butterscotch Day
  • March 4: National Pound Cake Day
  • March, 2nd Thursday: Popcorn Lover’s Day
  • May 24: National Escargot Day
  • June 29: National Almond Buttercrunch Day*
  •  
    A Related Day

  • December 8: National Lard Day
  •  
    To quote Julia Child, “With enough butter, anything is good.”
     
    ________________
     
    *Why are there two National Buttercrunch Days? The individuals who established them can’t be identified, so there’s no one to ask. We can theorize that National Buttercrunch Day (January 20th) celebrates the diversity of buttercrunch recipes, including those with other nuts or no nuts at all. We’ve found recipes online that use most of the popular nuts, from pecans and pistachios to macadamias and walnuts. In fact, Brown & Haley, the company that popularized almond buttercrunch with its Almond Roca, also sells Macadamia Roca. National Almond Buttercrunch Day (June 29th) focuses on the classic almond version, which is the most widely recognized.

    The Almond Roca brand was created in 1923 by Harry Brown and J.C. Haley of the Brown & Haley company in Tacoma, Washington. They created a buttercrunch toffee coated in milk chocolate and encrusted with chopped almonds. The name roca, meaning rock in Spanish, was inspired by its crunchy texture and the fact that almonds were often imported from Spain at the time. Almond Roca became widely popular, especially during World War II, when it was shipped to American soldiers overseas. This earned it the nickname “The Candy That Travels,” due to its long shelf life and durable packaging in airtight tins.
     
     

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    HOLIDAY GIFT: Robert Lambert Fruitcake

    Even if you like fruitcake, the fruitcakes from Robert Lambert will raise the bar beyond any other fruitcake you’ve had.

    It is fruitcake for those in the know. It has nothing to do with the mass-produced versions loaded with neon candied fruit.

    Robert Lambert, a cookbook author and pastry chef, is one of America’s great food artisans. He has been one of our “food heros” since we met years ago.

    His products have been our Top Pick Of The Week more often than any other producer, including:

  • Chocolate Sauces
  • Fruitcakes
  • Fruit Syrups
  • Marmalades
  • Preserved Fruits<
  •  
    All of these products, sold on his website, are the best of their kind.

    Anything you purchase from Robert Lambert is a delicious treat for yourself, or for gifting.

    We’re focusing on the fruitcakes because they’re seasonal items, and they sell out quickly.

    So buy them now, even if you want them as Christmas or Thanksgiving gifts. The fruitcakes don’t go stale.
     
     
    ROBERT LAMBERT FRUITCAKES

    Robert Lambert’s artisan fruitcake are made by loving hands by a gifted baker.

    As previously noted, these are the best fruitcakes you can buy. All of the candied fruit is made by hand. There’s nothing processed or artificial.

    Robert Lambert’s small-batch fruitcakes are made in Marin County, California, using local fruits and rare varieties he painstakingly sources.

    The main difference between his Dark/Winter fruitcake (photo #2) and the White fruitcake (photo #1) are the sugars.

    Traditional dark fruit cake is made with brown sugar and molasses. For those who don’t want molasses, white fruit cake is made with white granulated sugar.

    In fact, Mr. Lambert sells aged fruitcakes. In addition to purchasing the current 2019 “vintage,” you can also buy the rarer year-old aged cakes from 2018.

    Aged fruitcake? Yes, fruitcakes including figgy pudding are typically aged for five weeks or longer, so the flavors can meld.

    Then there’s extra-long aging. Mr. Lambert explains:

    “Over time the flavors radiate out from the moisture of the fruits and peels. They intersect, and form new flavor compounds. This intensifies the complexity.

    “In the 2-year-old cake (at the bottom of photo #2), that process is complete.”

    As with the 2019 vintage, the aged cakes are available in both Dark/Winter and White Fruitcakes*.

    Here’s a brief history of fruitcake.
     
     
    ABOUT ROBERT LAMBERT

    Robert has a boutique food operation in the San Francisco Bay area.

    Within an hour’s drive or so of the city, heritage fruits grow on trees that have been owned by families for generations.

    Robert Lambert buys some of those fruits, and creates marvellous products from them.

    As a tiny operation, Robert doesn’t have the time or marketing budget to improve his website, which is homespun and difficult to navigate.

    So your biggest challenge will be navigating the website. But once you do, it will be so worth it!

    Here are the direct links:

  • Chocolate Sauces (at bottom of page) (photo #4)
  • Fruitcakes
  • Fruit Syrups
  • Jams
  • Marmalades (photo #3)
  •  

    White Fruitcake
    [1] White fruitcake is made with white granulated sugar (photos #1 and #2 © Robert Lambert).

    Aged Fruitcake
    [2] Winter fruitcakes, made with brown sugar and molasses. Top: 2019. Middle: aged 1 year. Bottom: aged 2 years.


    [3] Blood Orange Marmalade, one of several great marmalades (photos #3 and #4 © The Nibble).


    [4] Robert Lambert Malted Milk Chocolate Sauce, one of several delicious flavors.

     

      

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