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Types Of Champagne & Champagne To Pair With Thanksgiving Dinner


[1] This turkey is actually basted with Champagne as well. Here’s the recipe from Taste of Home. It takes two cups of Champagne or other sparkling wine.


[2] Start the dinner with bubbly, starting with the hors d’oeuvres. Here’s more from Good Food (photo © Good Food | Marina Oliphant).


[3] A popular appetizer, Baked Brie, is delicious with Champagne. Here’s the recipe (photo © The Almond Eater).


[4] You can glaze your ham with Champagne or other bubbly. Here’s the recipe (photo © Cooking Light | Jennifer Causey).

Brut Champagne

[5] Brut Champagne is the most commonly-purchased style, but it’s too dry and acidic to go well with desserts (photo © Veuve Clicquot).

Veuve Cliquot Demi Sec Champagne
[6] Ready for dessert? Look for a demi-sec Champagne, which has more residual sugar to match the sweetness of the dessert (photo © Veuve Clicquot).

 

Some people like red wine, and some people like white wine.

But a bottle of sparkling wine can see you through an entire meal, even if that meal is Thanksgiving.

Last week we covered red and white wine pairings: the different wines that go with each course of your Thanksgiving dinner.

But what if you did something very elegant: serve Champagne with every course?

Different styles of Champagne have different levels of sugar, body, and other qualities that make different styles and sweetnesses pair best with different courses.

The Champagne Bureau USA has developed a chart (below) to show how different types of Champagne pair with each dish of the meal.

We’ve added an explanation of the different levels of sweetness, the styles based on grapes used, and the grapes themselves.

Consider this article to be a primer on Champagne that you can use year-round.

 
THE SEVEN LEVELS OF SWEETNESS IN CHAMPAGNE

Champagne is made in seven styles, or levels, of sweetness. The sweetness comes from a step in the secondary fermentation of Champagne, when the bubbles are created.

The process is called dosage (doe-SAZH): A small amount of sugar is added to the wine bottles before they are corked. The sugar also reduces the tartness/acidity of the wine.

This process is unique to sparkling wine (although not all sparkling wines use this technique). Don’t like geeky information? Skip these two bullets.

  • Primary Fermentation Of Champagne: In the classic méthode champenoise used to make Champagne, Cava and American sparkling wines, the primary, or alcoholic, fermentation of the wine transforms the grape must (the pressed juice of the grapes) into wine. Natural yeast consumes the natural grape sugars, producing alcohol and carbon dioxide.
  • Secondary Fermentation Of Champagne: To create a secondary fermentation, the dosage is added to the wine. The the added yeasts eat the added sugar, again creating alcohol and carbon dioxide.
  •  
    The Levels Of Sweetness

    Based on the amount of sugar in the dosage, the seven levels of sweetness based on residual sugar (what’s left after the secondary fermentation) are:

  • Brut Nature/Brut Zero: 0-3 g/l* residual sugar
  • Extra Brut: 0-6 g/l residual sugar
  • Brut: 0-12 g/l residual sugar
  • Extra Dry†: 12-17 g/l residual sugar
  • Dry: 17-32 g/l RS residual sugar
  • Demi-Sec: 32-50 g/l residual sugar
  • Doux: 50+ g/l residual sugar
  •  
     
    THE STYLES OF CHAMPAGNE

  • Blanc de Blancs: A Blanc de Blancs Champagne is made entirely from white grapes. The vast majority will be Chardonnay, which adds acidity and structure. A Blanc de Blancs will be lighter and racier than a Blanc de Noirs, a blend of black and white grapes. Blanc de Blancs blending grapes include Arbane, Petit Meslier, and Pinot Blanc.
  • Blanc de Noirs: The translation is “white wine made from black grapes. The black grapes used in Champagne are Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, or a blend of the two. Just as a Pinot Noir is richer than a Chardonnay, a Blanc de Noirs is richer, more aromatic, and [often] more complex on the palate than a Blanc de Blancs.
  • Non-Vintage Champagne (NV): Non-Vintage Champagne is a blend of three to five harvests, blended to create a “house style” that is consistent from year to year. This is done to even out the grape qualities of different harvests. There is no year on the label, but NV is still top-quality Champagne. It’s ready to drink when released, whereas vintage Champagne needs to be laid down to evolve.
  • Prestige Cuvée. This is the house’s top-of-the-line bottling. The grapes are selected from the appellation’s best-situated vineyards and the wine is the most expensive, often with special packaging. While some prestige cuvées are also the producer’s vintage release, in some instances the “best of the best” grapes from the best vineyards are bottled into their own prestige cuvée. For example, while Pol Roger makes a non-vintage and vintage wine, they also make Cuvée Winston Churchill in the best-of-the-best vintage years. In most cases, a prestige cuvée is a premium Vintage Champagne, but a few producers do make a non-vintage prestige cuvée.
  • Rosé: Rosé Champagne is made by blending in some local red wine—between 5% and 20%. The more red wine that is used, the darker the hue of the rosé. Most Rosé Champagnes are made from a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
  • Vintage Champagne: The grapes are all from a single harvest, and made 100% from the year indicated on the label. To declare a vintage year, a Champagne must be aged longer before bottling. Their complexity demands that the bottles be held before drinking: a minimum of 10 years after the vintage date, in order to get the complexity of the wine. Twenty years of age is even better, and the Champagne still shows its breeding at even 50 years of age. Vintage Champagnes represent less than 5% of production
  •  
     
    THE GRAPES OF CHAMPAGNE

    By law, seven grape varieties can be used to make Champagne. The two major grapes are Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

    Chardonnay provides acidity and structure. Pinot Noir adds elegance, perfume, and body.

    Small amounts of other grapes can be used for blending, to achieve specific qualities in the Champagne. All of them add a bit of complexity in their own way.
     
    The five permitted blending grapes are [source]:

  • Arbanne adds rusticity to the blend.
  • Fromenteau adds fruitiness, body and richness. It is closely related to Pinot Gris.
  • Petite Meslier has a greenness that some find similar to Sauvignon Blanc. It can counter excessive ripeness in hot years.
  • Pinot Blanc adds fruit, richness, and fruity and/or honey aromas.
  • Pinot Menuier adds backbone, length of the finish, tannin and fruit on the palate, and an aroma of wild berries.
  •  
    ________________________________________

    *Grams per liter.

    †It’s a paradox in the Champagne industry that “dry” indicates a sweeter wine; as do sec (which means dry in French) and demi-sec. Doux, the sweetest style of Champagne, does mean sweet.

     

     
     

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Spain’s Great Red Grape For National Tempranillo Day

    November 8th is International Tempranillo Day—the best known grape and red wine varietal in Spain (the holiday is celebrated on the second Sunday in November).

    Its name is the diminutive form of the Spanish word temprano, which means early.

    It was so named because the Tempranillo (temp-rah-NEE-yo) grape ripens, and is harvested, several weeks earlier than most Spanish red grapes.

    The wine is full-bodied, with rich aromas and predominantly cherry fruit, plus plums, figs and strawberries in older wines.

    Depending on where the grapes are grown, it has earthy flavors such as cedar, cloves, leather and tobacco.

    The wine has a medium tannic backbone and moderate acidity.

    If you like Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese, you’ll like Tempranillo. It is typically aged in American oak, contributing vanilla and spicy notes (can you detect a hint of cinnamon?).

    You can get a good Crianza level—a wine aged 2 years with with 6 months in oak, for less than $20.00. A decent Tempranillo can be found in the $10 range.

    The Reserva wines (aged 3 years with 1 year in oak) and Gran Reserva wines (aged a minimum of 5 years before release with at least 18 months in oak) are more expensive.

    If the bottle doesn’t carry any of these labels, it’s meant for early consumption (i.e., drink it soon).

    > The history of Tempranillo is below.

    > The year’s 25+ red wine holidays.

    > The year’s 11 Spanish food holidays celebrated in the U.S.
     
     
    HOW TO PAIR TEMPRANILLO WINES WITH FOOD

    Wines typically pair best with the foods of their region. But Tempranillo can easily leave Iberia and pair well foods from around the globe.

  • Anywhere: braises, charcuterie, chicken/duck/goose, game, grilled meats and poultry, mushrooms, smoked foods (including ham and smoked cheeses, chorizo and other sausages), stews, stronger fish.
  • Italy: pasta, pizza and anything with a tomato-based sauce (including calamari).
  • Morocco: tagines.
  • U.S.: barbecue, burgers, Cajun dishes (e.g. jambalaya), lamb and pork chops and roasts, polenta and other dishes made with corn, steak.
  • Mexico: burritos, chiles rellenos (stuffed peppers), chili, nachos, tacos.
  •  
    The younger wines are fruitier and pair well brats and other sausages, plus chicken wings. The California wines tend to be fruiter, and can be paired with salmon and tuna.

    If you want to crack a bottle for an apéritif or snack, serve it with classic Spanish accompaniments:

  • Serrano ham (Spain’s version of Prosciutto)
  • Manchego cheese
  • Green olives
  •  
     
    TEMPRANILLO HISTORY

    While many grape varietals were transported from their region of origin to other parts of the world, the Tempranillo grape is indigenous to the Rioja area of Spain.

    The wild vines of its parent grapes were cultivated some 2,000 years ago, and the locals have been wine ever since.

    Tempranillo is mostly grown in three regions* of Spain: in La Rioja plus Navarra and the Ribero del Duero district in the Burgos province in the region of Castilla y Léon.

    It is used in red wine blends from these areas, as well as in single varietal bottlings.

    Spain has 80% of the Tempranillo vineyards worldwide. In 2015, Tempranillo was the third most widely planted wine grape variety worldwide (source).

    But it is planted the world over: in Argentina, Australia, New Zealand, Portugal, South Africa, South America, the U.S., and a few other countries.
     
    ________________

    *What we call wine regions are called autonomous communities in Spain. There are also provinces.

     


    [1] There are a number of Tempranillo wines made in California (photo © Wedding Oak Winery).


    [2] A cluster of Tempranillo on the vine (photo © Sergi Arjona | Dreamstime).

    A Plate Of Filet Mignon With Red Wine
    [3] Filet mignon and other fine beef merits a Reserva or Gran Reserva Tempranillo (photo © Ruth’s Chris Steak House).

    Moroccan Chicken Recipe
    [4] Braised Moroccan Chicken With Green Olives. Here’s the recipe. (photo © Good Eggs).

     
     
     

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    RECIPE: Maple Pumpkin Spice Popcorn


    [1] Popcorn with fall flavors: maple syrup and pumpkin pie spice (photo © Popcorn Board).


    [2] Pumpkin pie spice (photo © Silk Road Spices).

     

    Here’s some seasonal fun: popcorn with seasonal ingredients. Thanks to The Popcorn Board for the recipe.
     
     
    RECIPE #1: MAPLE PUMPKIN SPICE POPCORN

    Ingredients

  • 2 tablespoons brown sugar
  • 2 tablespoons maple syrup
  • 1-1/2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice (photo #2, or recipe below)
  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • Optional: 1/2 cup chopped pecans
  • 5 cups popped popcorn
  •  
    Preparation

    1. COMBINE the brown sugar, maple syrup and pumpkin pie spice in a large saucepan or pot, and heat over medium heat. Cook, stirring, for 3 minutes or until the sugar is dissolved and mixture is bubbling.

    2. ADD the butter and stir until it is melted and well blended into the brown sugar mix. Add the pecans.

    3. POUR over the popcorn and stir until well coated. Allow the mixture to cool before serving.

    4. SERVE, or store in an airtight container.
     

    RECIPE #2: PUMPKIN PIE SPICE

    If you don’t have a pumpkin pie spice blend, it’s easy to make.

    Just whisk these ingredients in a bowl until well combined. Store it in an airtight container.

    Ingredients

  • 3 tablespoons ground cinnamon
  • 2 teaspoons ground ginger
  • 2 teaspoons ground nutmeg
  • 1 teaspoon ground allspice
  • 1 teaspoon ground cloves
  •  

      

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    GIFT: Grounds & Hounds Coffee

    Grounds & Hounds is the perfect coffee brand for dog lovers.

    “Every pound saves a hound,” the company says:

    20% of all profits generated by Grounds & Hounds Coffee Co. are used to fund innovative and impactful rescue programs throughout the country.

    The mission is to eradicate unnecessary animal euthanasia and improve animal welfare, and the money supports organizations with the same missions.

    To raise the money, Grounds & Hounds sells premium coffee, in your choice of ground, K-Cup Pods or whole bean.

    The beans are 100% Fair Trade and 100% Organic Certified, sourced from the top growing regions around the world: Colombia, Ethiopia, Guatemala, Mexico, Nicaragua, Papua New Guinea, Peru and Sumatra.

    There are numerous blends and single-origin beans, plus hot chocolate mixes.

    There’s a Coffee Club and gift subscriptions.

    The blended coffees have endearing canine-based names:

  • Alpha Blend
  • Belly Rub Blend
  • Good Boy
  • Hush Puppy (Decaf)
  • Morning Walk
  • Paper & Slippers
  • Rescue Roast
  • Sit & Stay
  • Sunny Spot
  •  
    How can you resist?

    There are also shirts, mugs and other accessories.

    Head to GroundsAndHoundsCoffee.com for good coffee and good deeds.

     


    [1] Buy Grounds & Hounds and help dogs nationwide (both photos © Grounds & Hounds).


    [2] Choose from blends, single origin, beans, ground coffee and K-Cup Pods.

     

      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Brown Butter, Black Butter & How To Use Them

    Chocolate Chip Cookies
    [1] Chocolate chip cookies are even better with brown butter (photo © Bella Baker).


    [2] Brown Butter Parmesan Pasta. Here’s the recipe (photo Joe Lingeman | © The Kitchn).


    [3] Brown butter can be used as an ingredient, for sautéeing, or as a sauce (photos #3 and #4 © Go Bold With Butter).

    The photos that follow show the process of making brown butter.


    [5] It’s easy to make brown butter. When it’s light golden brown, it’s ready.

    Brown Butter Peach & Blackberry Crisp
    [6] A brown butter peach and blackberry crisp. Here’s the recipe (photo © Go Bold With Butter).

     

    Brown butter, or beurre noisette, meaning hazelnut butter in French, is a butter sauce used in French cuisine.

    It is used to give a dish a deeper, richer, more intense flavor than is provided by simpled melted or clarified butter.

    Butter is heated until it reaches a deep yellow, almost brown color, and develops a nutty scent (hence, “hazelnut butter,” even though no nuts are involved).

  • It is a popular way to sauté and sauce fish, meat, omelets, pasta, poultry, vegetables; and on the sweet side, fruit.
  • It is also used in making French pastry like financiers and madeleines.
  •  
    > Instructions to make brown butter are below.

    >The history of brown butter is also below.

    > The different types of butter: a photo glossary.

    > The history of butter.

    > September 22nd is National Brown Butter Day.

    > The year’s 5+ butter holidays are below.
     
     
    BROWN BUTTER VS. BLACK BUTTER

    Black butter is actually dark brown, and brown butter is actually deep yellow, almost brown.

    The color and flavor chemistry behind it involves the Maillard reaction and caramelization of the milk proteins and sugars, transforming simple butter into something much more complex and aromatic.

    Both brown and black variations are cooked over low heat. The difference between brown butter and black butter is how long the butter is cooked.

    For the cook, the question is: How deep do you want the nutty/toasty flavors?

    Both are made by cooking unsalted butter long enough to caramelize the milk solids and turn them brown. The process also cooks out the water present in the butter, to concentrate the flavor.

    As the butter melts, it separates into yellow butterfat and white milk solids. The heavier milk solids sink to the bottom of the pan.

    As the butter cooks, the milk solids begin to brown. When they reach the color desired by the cook, the pan is removed from the heat.

    > There’s also beurre rouge (red butter), which substitutes red wine and vinegar for the white wine and vinegar.
     
     
    EVERYDAY WAYS TO USE BROWN BUTTER

    If butter makes everything taste better, then brown butter makes everything taste even better than that. You get more richness without added calories.

    Add richer flavor to:

  • Baking: especially blondies, cookies, pound cake, tart pastry.
  • Bread spread: biscuits, toast.
  • Caper and/or anchovy sauce: blend in lemon juice and parsley to sauce eggs, fish and vegetables. A great brown butter sauce!
  • Crumble topping: Mix it in to crumbs or granola
  • Eggs: omelets, scrambles (we also use it for blintzes and crêpes).
  • Greens: substitute for olive oil when sautéeing chard, kale, spinach, etc.
  • Pancakes and waffles: add a bit to the batter, cook the pancakes in the butter.
  • Pan-toasted sandwiches: grilled cheese, croque monsieur
  • Pasta and rice for sauce, garnished with fresh herb, peas, bacon, whatever.
  • Popcorn.
  • Poultry and seafood: sautéed in brown butter or poured over as a sauce.
  • Potatoes: baked, boiled, mashed, roasted.
  • Rice and other grains: garnish.
  • Roasted vegetables: toss in brown butter before roasting.
  • Sautéed vegetables: beyond greens, memorable mushrooms and onions.
  • Shellfish: so much better than clarified butter for dipping.
  • Soup: drizzled garnish.
  •  
     
    EVERYDAY WAYS TO USE BLACK BUTTER

    Black butter is usually flavored with tarragon vinegar or lemon juice, capers and parsley and served as a sauce with:

  • Eggs: omelettes or scrambled eggs.
  • Calves’ brains: a dish, alas, that is not served much these days since the spread of Mad Cow Disease, but try it with lambs’ brains.
  • Skate: plus cod and other seafood.
  •  
    To look for black butter recipes online, search under the French term, beurre noir. There is a British spiced apple jam called black butter.
     
     
    HOW TO MAKE BROWN BUTTER

    Thanks to Go Bold With Butter for these easy steps.

    All you need is a unsalted butter and a skillet.

    Why not salted butter? Salted butter tends to foam more than unsalted butter, making it difficult to judge the color change.

    To watch the color change, see photo the strip of photos at the left.

    Preparation

    1. MELT the butter over medium heat. As the butter melts, gently swirl the pan to ensure the butter doesn’t burn.

    2. WATCH for the butter to splutter as the water cooks off. Stir frequently at this stage, when the butter begins to turn a light golden color.

    (The difference between splutter and sputter: Splutter means to spray droplets, while sputter refers to “spraying” when speaking.)

    3. TURN down the heat as the sputtering subsides and the butter will turn into a light foam.

    4. WATCH as the color begins to deepen into a golden color. Notice the small brown bits of milk solids developing at the bottom. You’re almost done!

    5. WATCH for the butter to turn a toasted brown color (photo #4). You’ll smell the nutty aroma. Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the butter to a heat-proof bowl.

    6. COOL before adding to a recipe. Store in a tightly-lidded container in the fridge.
     
     
    THE HISTORY OF BROWN BUTTER

    The technique of making brown butter, or beurre noisette (hazelnut butter in French, so-called for its nutty aroma and color), has a fascinating culinary history rooted in French cooking tradition.

    It likely emerged in French cuisine during the 18th or 19th century as chefs explored different ways to prepare and use butter.

    The French have long been masters of butter-based sauces, and brown butter became part of the classical French chef’s repertoire, particularly in haute cuisine.

     
    The process of cooking butter until the milk solids caramelize, creating a complex, nutty flavor and golden-brown color, was formalized in classical French cooking. It became one of the foundational preparations taught to culinary students.

    Historically, brown butter featured prominently in classic French dishes like:

  • As a sauce for various fish preparations, and vegetables like asparagus or green beans.
  • In raie au beurre noir (skate in black butter) although beurre noir is even more cooked beurre noisette.
  • As a finishing sauce for pastas, including gnocchi.
  •  
    In modern cooking, brown butter has experienced a renaissance, particularly in American baking and cuisine. It’s commonly used in cookies, cakes, and bar cookies like blondies.

    The technique has moved beyond French cuisine into global cooking, where cooks worldwide appreciate the depth of flavor it adds compared to regular melted butter.
     
     
    THE YEAR’S 5+ BUTTER HOLIDAYS

    So many famous foods exist because of butter. A sampling:

  • Baked Goods: butter cakes and cookies, croissants, pastries, puff pastry.
  • Breakfast Foods: biscuits, pancakes, waffles.
  • Desserts & Sweets: buttercream frosting, butterscotch, caramel, fudge, toffee/buttercrunch.
  • Savory Dishes: butter chicken, chicken Kiev, escargot, garlic bread, lobster with drawn butter, mashed potatoes, sauces.
  •  
    Trying to determine what should be celebrated as a “butter holiday” took some thought. There are five holidays in the U.S. where butter is the focus:

  • January 18: National Hot Buttered Rum Day
  • August 23: National Buttered Corn Day
  • September 22: National Brown Butter Day
  • September 25: German Butterbrot Day (Buttered Bread Day)
  • November 17: National Butter Day
  •  
    Additionally, here’s our list of food holidays where another fat simply cannot be substituted for butter without compromising the flavor:

  • January 6: National Shortbread Day
  • January 8: National English Toffee Day
  • January 19: National Popcorn Day
  • January 20: National Buttercrunch Day*
  • January 30: National Croissant Day
  • February 15: National I Want Butterscotch Day
  • March 4: National Pound Cake Day
  • March, 2nd Thursday: Popcorn Lover’s Day
  • May 24: National Escargot Day
  • June 29: National Almond Buttercrunch Day*
  •  
    A Related Day

  • December 8: National Lard Day
  •  
    To quote Julia Child, “With enough butter, anything is good.”
     
    ________________
     
    *Why are there two National Buttercrunch Days? The individuals who established them can’t be identified, so there’s no one to ask. We can theorize that National Buttercrunch Day (January 20th) celebrates the diversity of buttercrunch recipes, including those with other nuts or no nuts at all. We’ve found recipes online that use most of the popular nuts, from pecans and pistachios to macadamias and walnuts. In fact, Brown & Haley, the company that popularized almond buttercrunch with its Almond Roca, also sells Macadamia Roca. National Almond Buttercrunch Day (June 29th) focuses on the classic almond version, which is the most widely recognized.

    The Almond Roca brand was created in 1923 by Harry Brown and J.C. Haley of the Brown & Haley company in Tacoma, Washington. They created a buttercrunch toffee coated in milk chocolate and encrusted with chopped almonds. The name roca, meaning rock in Spanish, was inspired by its crunchy texture and the fact that almonds were often imported from Spain at the time. Almond Roca became widely popular, especially during World War II, when it was shipped to American soldiers overseas. This earned it the nickname “The Candy That Travels,” due to its long shelf life and durable packaging in airtight tins.
     
     

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