[1] This beauty is spoonable, and when super-ripe, it becomes pourable (all photos © Jasper Hill Farm).

[2] When on the younger side, the bark can be peeled away for sliced portioning. If the paste is gooey and the bark has fused with it, then leave the bark intact, cut away a portion of the top or all of it (save it for eating), and spoon out cheese from the top.

[4] The top neatly cut away for scooping.

[5] Cheeses aging in the vault.

[6] For you or for gifting: five of Jasper Hill Farm’s memorable cheeses.

One of our favorite fine cheeses has just taken home the coveted Super Gold medal at last week’s World Cheese Awards, held in Trondheim, Norway.

It also won the trophy for Best American Cheese.

This is a magnificent cheese for a cheese connoisseur or for someone who wants to become one.

Harbison is a soft-ripened cheese with a rustic, bloomy rind. The pasteurized cow’s milk cheese has a bloomy rind (like Brie) and is bark-wrapped.

Young cheeses are wrapped in strips of spruce cambium, the tree’s inner bark layer, harvested from the woodlands of Jasper Hill in Greensboro, Vermont.

The spoonable texture begins to develop in Jasper Hill Farm’s vaults, and the paste (the interior) continues to soften on the way to market.

The texture is voluptuous, the aroma scintillating. On the palate, the oh-so-creamy cheese yields notes of button mushroom, mustard, raspberry, sweet cream, and a woodsy flavor from the bloomy rind.
 
 
PAIRING HARBISON WITH OTHER FOODS

Harbison is a great excuse to gather a few friends and scoop into a special treat.

For drinking, pair it with an oaky white wine like Chardonnay, or barrel-aged sour beer.

Serve it with crusty bread or plain crostini and for a cheese condiment, a fruit mostarda.

One cheese writer suggests serving it with French fries sprinkled with fresh thyme, which complements the woodsy flavors.

> Check out our guide to cheese condiments.
 
 
GET YOUR HARBISON CHEESE

Blue cheese lovers: Jasper Hill Farm’s Bayley Hazen Blue also took home a gold medal in the blue cheese category, and Willoughby picked up a gold medal in the washed rind cheese category.

In a field of more than 4,000 entries from around the world, Jasper Hill Farms won five medals. Great work, team!

In addition to Harbison, Bayley Hazen Blue, and Willoughby, there are gift boxes of simply splendid cheeses. Everything from Jasper Hill Farm is special.

> Head to JasperHillFarm.com.

> The history of cheese.

> The different types of cheese: a glossary.

 
 
THE HISTORY OF HARBISON & BARK-WRAPPED CHEESE

The cheese is named for Anne Harbison, affectionately known as the grandmother of Greensboro, Vermont. She contributed to the creation of this divine cheese in 2011.

Harbison was a mistake—like chimichangas, chocolate chip cookies, Coca-Cola, corn flakes, fudge, ganache, ice cream cones, Nashville hot chicken, Popsicles, potato chips, Tarte, Worcestershire sauce, and even yogurt, among other necessities.

The team was making Moses Sleeper, a straightforward Brie-style cheese, and was adjusting the moisture on a batch.

They added too much moisture and could tell early on that the cheeses would ooze. Cheesemaker Mateo Kehler, Jasper Farms’ co-owner with his brother Andy, wrapped the rounds of cheese in bark to salvage the batch.

There was a bonus benefit:

In addition to girdling the oozing cheese, the bark imparted a “magical cacophony” of resinous, piney, smokey, and meaty flavors to the cheese [source].
 
 
The History Of Bark-Wrapped Cheese

Legend has it that the first bark-wrapped cheeses were made in the French and Swiss Alps during the winter months—out of necessity.

These regions are known for their large format (big wheels) cow’s milk cheeses: Comté on the French side and Gruyére on the Swiss side.

In the summer, the cows grazed high up in the Alpine meadows, where their milk was collected. The curds were formed and pressed into large wheels.

But in the autumn, when the cows returned to their villages in the valleys, the change in diet (dry hay and a bit of grain versus grazing on the pasture’s bounty) and the lack of exercise (staying warm in the barn versus free range in the Alpine pastures) meant that the composition and character of the milk changed dramatically.

This “winter milk,” made from cows who are indoors eating sweet hay and grain, is richer and more full of fat. It’s perfect for crafting soft, gooey cheese

In a centuries-old tradition of making cheese that fits the season, local cheesemakers began to make small, soft cheeses wrapped in spruce bark for their families and to sell at local markets.

These delicate wheels ripened to the point of being custardy and as they aged, scoopable. They were a hit, and bark-wrapped cheeses entered the history books [source].

Rovagnati, a venerable Italian producer of salume, has brought its premium cold cuts to the U.S.—and they’re nitrate-free.

Rovagnati uses an innovative and exclusive technology that removes nitrates and nitrites, providing a healthier option. That makes the brand better for you, worthy of your family and your guests.

Rovagnati, which remains a family business, was begun in 1943 in Milan, Italy. Paolo Rovagnati’s vision was to create inventive meat products that raised the quality of salume in Italy.

His vision has certainly come to pass! We’re so pleased with the two different trios we purchased for entertaining:

 
Plus, there are individual packages of:

 
There’s more about these below, but suffice it to say that our guests have not been shy about devouring them to the last slice.

We’ve come to love them so much that we now regularly enjoy them for lunch on homemade hero sandwiches.

Check in your local market for the products, or head to the company website for more information.
 
 
THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CURED & UNCURED MEATS

A word about nitrates and nitrates:

Cured meats (bacon, ham, hot dogs, sausage, etc.) contain the chemical preservatives sodium nitrate and/or sodium nitrite. Sodium nitrate is added to preserve and enhance a meat’s flavors and shelf life (it protects against the growth of bacteria).

When nitrates break down through cooking, digestion, or other means, they form nitrites, which are potential carcinogens.

Manufacturers and the USDA claim that the level of nitrates/nitrites is too low to cause problems. But there is enough of a controversy that it makes some people wary of ingesting nitrates and nitrates. They’ve given up hot dogs and other cured meats.

Some brands have created products that are free of nitrates and nitrates. We’re fans of Berkshire ham, for example.

Rovagnati has you covered in the salume department, with Genoa salami, prosciutto, and soppressata that are hormone-free.
 
 
SALUME, SALUMI, & SALAMI: THE DIFFERENCE

Salume refers to artisan craft meats. It’s a broad category similar to the French term, charcuterie.

Salumi refers specifically to cured or preserved pork products.

Salami, the word most familiar to Americans, is a cured meat product that is made up of ground pork and shaped in a casing.

There are many different types of salami, but they all start out the same way:

The meat is minced, seasoned to the salumiere’s (the salami maker’s) style, and packed into a casing. It is then cured over time to develop and mature its flavors.

Salami is produced with different flavor profiles, depending on the seasonings that are mixed in before curing. There are numerous regional varieties. Just a few:

[1] One package makes a nice board for four, and two packages serve eight people (photos #1 through #4 © Rovagnati S.p.A).

[2] Ready for guests!

[3] A light lunch.

[4] Salumi with Gorgonzola cheese and a drizzle of honey. Gorgonzola is also a product of the greater Milan area.

[5] We can pile an entire package onto a crusty hero roll (photo © St. Pierre USA | Facebook).

*Prosciutto is the Italian word for ham. Prosciutto crudo is cured, normally in salt for a few weeks. The salt draws out blood and moisture, which prevents bacteria from entering the meat. It is then air-dried and aged. Cotto means cooked. Prosciutto cotto is a ham that has been brined and steamed.
 
 

[1] Fig is traditionally a fall flavor, but this popular variety is available year-round (all photos © Bonne Maman).

[2] Cranberry Cherry Preserves. The line can also be used in baking and 20 more ways beyond toast.

Strawberry, grape, and raspberry are the three most popular flavors of jams*, jellies, and preserves in the U.S. Regardless of your personal faves, how about switching up your flavors for fall?

Bonne Maman (the name means “good mom”), preserves and spreads produced in France. The brand has all of the top flavors. But for a fall/winter seasonal twist, they also offer:

 
The line is all-natural: no artificial coloring, no high fructose corn syrup, no added preservatives.

In addition to great flavor, we particularly like the wide-mouth jar—easy to spoon out the preserves from the beginning through the last little bit.

The signature gingham-patterned lid and homemade-style handwritten script label are also appealing—the script of an artisan (or your great-grandmother).
 
 
NICE FOR GIFTING

There’s also a gift box with all three flavors. Individual jars are nice for small gifts and stocking stuffers.

And if you show up with a box of warm croissants, so much the better!
 
 
GET YOUR FALL FLAVOR PRESERVES

Check your grocer’s or head to BonneMaman.us for the seasonal treats.
 
 
> The history of jam, jelly, and preserves.

> The differences between jams, jellies, preserves, marmalade, chutney, and more.

> 20 different uses for jam, jelly, and preserves.

> Uses for fig spreads and preserves.

*Strawberry, grape, and raspberry are followed by apricot, blackberry, blueberry, and cherry [Source: Statistica]. Statista speculates that the reason the top two are strawberry and grape is because Smuckers and Welch’s, two of the leading jelly and jam companies in the U.S., have devoted a ton of marketing for these flavors. And they both work well on that American classic, the PB&J [source].

We have always enjoyed a nice jar of wine jelly, but no matter which brand we tried, we were always left with the thought: Shouldn’t “wine jelly” taste more like wine?

After 20-some years since tasting our first wine jelly, our question has been answered by Clif Family, and it’s no surprise why:

Clif Family makes its own wine from its California vineyards and it’s organic, too: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Grenache, Grenache Rosé, red blends, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Zinfandel, and a Petit Sirah dessert wine.

From these, the winery makes three wine jellies, which are also certified organic:

 
A good wine jelly is made with a concentration of real wine; the better the wine and the more wine in the jelly, the better the wine jelly.

A top wine jelly will taste like a glass of wine in jelly form, as the jellies from Clif Family so beautifully illustrate.

Each wine jelly is a gem on a cheese board or a fine cheese sandwich—say, Brie on a baguette, blue cheese and prosciutto, fine Cheddar or Gouda, and dozens of others, including grilled cheese!

The jellies also add flavor and excitement to cheese and charcuterie boards and have many more uses, which we detail in the next section.

In addition to their deliciousness, these jellies are feel-good gifts.

That’s because Clif Family is a B Corp Certified business, which means it prioritizes the highest standards of positive social and environmental impact (the owners began by founding Clif Bar).

Here’s more about B corps.
 
 
GET YOUR WINE JELLY

Not just for yourself, but as Thanksgiving favors and holiday gifts: You can select single jars or a gift box of all three.

Head to ClifFamily.com.

You’ll see other yummy items produced by the family, including other small-batch specialty foods that are enjoyable on their own or can be used to make tasty dishes:

 
If you find yourself in the Napa Valley, visit the Clif Family tasting room in St. Helena. In the interim, here’s:
 
> The history of jelly.

> The history of wine.

> The different types of jelly and jam: a glossary.

> Cheese condiments: pairing jelly and more with different cheeses.
 
 
20+ MORE WAYS TO USE WINE JELLY

When you open your first jar and the lovely aroma of wine wafts upward, you’ll want to dip into it with a spoon—and that’s a fine way to enjoy your first taste.

But, use it any way you would use jelly or preserves. In addition to your own creations, may we suggest:

As A Condiment

 
As An Ingredient

 
__________________
 
*Sour cream is sensitive to heat and can easily curdle if heated or reheated at a high temperature. Do not microwave. Crème fraîche can be heated without curdling or splitting. Regular yogurt will separate when heated, but Greek-style yogurt which is double- or triple-strained won’t.

[1] Rosé wine jelly with a glass of rosé wine (photos #1 through #4 © Clif Family).

[2] Red wine jelly. The jellies are sold individually and in a gift box with all three varieties.

[3] White wine jelly, made with Sauvignon Blanc.

[4] The lovely gift box with all three flavors.

[5] Clever canapes with peanut butter and wine jelly (photo © Jif).

[6] These wine jellies are a great addition to a cheese or charcuterie board (photo © Castello Cheese).

[1] The 2023 special collection of Thanksgiving sides-inspired chocolates from Campbell’s x Philip Ashley Chocolates (photo © Campbell’s).

[2] America’s favorite Thanksgiving side dish: mashed potatoes (photo © Idaho Potato Commission).

[3] The runner-up favorite side: stuffing/dressing† (photo © Bella Sun Luci).

[4] Coming in third: mac and cheese (photo © Flavor & The Menu).

To add some tasty fun to Thanksgiving, Campbell’s, whose soups and other products are used to make popular side dishes, has a special treat for gifting.

In a partnership between Campbell’s and Memphis-based Philip Ashley Chocolates, the chocolatier has created a limited-edition collection of chocolate truffles for Thanksgiving.

Available for pre-order on November 7th, the flavors are inspired by Campbell’s most iconic side dish recipes.

The flavors include:

 
> A box is $35. Head to PhilipAshleyChocolates.com.

> The history of chocolate.

> The different types of chocolate.

> The history of Thanksgiving.
 
 
AMERICA’S FAVORITE THANKSGIVING SIDES

Campbell’s announced the results of their State of the Sides report*, which found that Americans love their Thanksgiving sides!

This year’s Top 5:

 
More from the research:

 
> For Campbell’s side dish recipes, visit SidesSeason.com
 
 
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*Data from Campbell’s custom research and Ipsos Global Market Research (2023).

†Stuffing is a seasoned mixture (bread crumbs, vegetables, herbs, and butter, e.g.) that is typically cooked inside the cavity of the turkey. Dressing, on the other hand, is cooked in a separate pan or dish.
 
 

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