September 27th is National Corned Beef Hash Day.

When life gives you corned beef, make corned beef hash.

Hash is a mixture of foods cut into small pieces. The term derives from the French hacher (ah-SHAY), which means “to chop.”

To make corned beef hash, the chopped beef is typically mixed with chopped onions, diced potatoes, and spices.

Corned beef hash is most often served with fried or poached eggs—it’s nice to mingle soft yolk with the hash—and toast. Some restaurants add hash browns or home fried potatoes, and even baked beans.

It can be served for breakfast, lunch, or dinner.

> What Is Corned Beef
 
 
CORNED BEEF HASH HISTORY

The concept of hash likely dates to the earliest times, as cooks diced up whatever ingredients they had and threw them into a pan to make a hot meal.

Tracking recipes through history, there is a 14th-century recipe in England for hache or hachy.

In the 17th century, English diarist Samuel Pepys wrote enthusiastically about a rabbit hash.

The term “hash” was given to dishes where leftover meats were simply sliced, not chopped.

 
Pick your country and there’s a popular hash dish, although it may well have another name.

There’s everything from pickled beets in Denmark to Worcestershire sauce in England to tomato sauce and lots of garlic in Portugal and Brazil.

Check out these international hash variations.

But let’s get to hash in our own country.

Hash In America

Hash made with a variety of ingredients has been part of the American diet since at least colonial times, as 18th-century recipes attest [source].

As out-of-home eating expanded in the 1860s, beyond the lunch pail, street vendor or tavern, a cheap restaurant was referred to as a hash house or hashery.

(Alas, diners and other hash houses that actually had hash on the menu were replaced in the latter 20th century by national chains such as Denny’s and IHOP).
 
The Arrival Of Corned Beef

Corned beef arrived in the U.S. later on in the late 19th century. Although the exact origin of corned beef is unknown, it most likely came about when people began to preserve tp meat through salt-curing. This was a common method of preserving meat until the middle of the 20th century when the advent of refrigeration made it less popular.

While the tradition of salting beef as a means of preserving it has been around for thousands of years, the term “corned beef” dates to around the time of the Cattle Acts in the 17th century [source].

Corned beef was brought to the U.S. by Ashkenazi Jewish immigrants (Jews from northern Europe). Corned beef was a popular dish in their Old World lives, and they brought their corned beef recipes with them.

Historical note: Corned beef did not come from Ireland: Irish immigrants to New York City learned to corn beef from their Jewish immigrant neighbors. Corned beef recipes in Ireland migrated back across the pond, from the U.S. to the Emerald Isle.

Corned beef is salt-cured brisket of beef (photo #9). The term comes from the treatment of the meat with large-grained rock salt (photo #10), also called “corns” of salt (because they could be the size of small corn kernels).

The brisket comes from the front chest area of the cow, near the bottom. There are two briskets per animal. The brisket is one of the tougher cuts of meat because the animal works the muscle almost constantly in the course of the day.

This requires slow cooking over low heat, which breaks down the tough fibers, collagen, and connective tissues, thus tenderizing the meat.

Corned beef became popular enough to be canned as early as 1898, as you can see in photo #8—a can of Libby’s corned beef hash.

(This particular photo came from a guidebook published by the Alaska Commercial Company for people traveling to Alaska and the Yukon in the Klondike Gold Rush.)

Before hash became inextricably linked with corned beef, boiled beef hash was made in New England as a way to use up the leftovers from a traditional boiled dinner of beef, cabbage, potatoes, and onions. Also in New England:

 
The 20th Century

During World War I, plenty of corned beef hash was dished out a garrisons and field kitchens. Toward the end of the war, canned corned beef hash appeared in field ration kits.

They continued in World War II, as did corned beef hash and other hash recipes on the home front. The meat had to be purchased with not only money but with ration stamps, limiting the amount of meat† any one person could have.

Because of meat rationing, the dish became popular during World War II. Although born of necessity, it was tasty, and it became an American comfort food.

Corned beef hash remained popular after the war. In 1950, Hormel Foods introduced canned corned beef hash and roast beef hash. Other brands proliferated.
 
Corned Beef Hash Today

It may not be fashionable, but corned beef hash has many fans. (Our enthusiasm for it comes from our mother and grandmother.)

It remains popular enough that a quick web search found canned corned beef hash:

 
 
SERVING CORNED BEEF HASH

In the U.S., corned beef is popular at breakfast and brunch. At restaurants, corned beef (or other) hash is typically served with eggs, toast, hollandaise sauce, and even baked beans.

Chefs at better restaurants have jumped upon the retro aspect of the dish, creating all types of variations.

A fancier recipe, for Corned Beef Hash “Benedict,” was created by William “Billy” Oliva, executive chef of Delmonico’s Steakhouse Restaurant in New York City (photo # 6).

It turned the corned beef hash into patties that replace the Canadian bacon in Eggs Benedict. A spicy hollandaise replaces the conventional hollandaise sauce. Here’s the recipe.

(This recipe is doubly Delmonico’s: Eggs Benedict were invented there in the 1860s.)
 
Lunch & Dinner

Corned beef hash is not just breakfast food. It also can be served for lunch or dinner with a salad.

Make it more special with any of these, and other, enhancements:

 
You can throw in anything in the fridge, from scallions to hard-cooked eggs to cherry tomatoes and zucchini.

You can get as creative as you like, from corn kernels in the summer to diced squash in the fall.

You can also change the:

 
Just enjoy being part of the tradition of corned beef hash.

[1] Corned beef hash with a fried egg and a contemporary garnish of fried shishito peppers (photo © The Wayfarer | NYC [now closed]).

[2] Out of the pan and onto the plate. A poached egg can be substituted for a fried egg (photo © Allen Brothers).

[3] Hash updated with bacon added to the beef. Here’s the recipe (photo © Lodge Cast Iron).

[4] Change the format, as with these corned beef hash patties. Here’s the recipe (photo © Idaho Potato Commission).

[5] Make it fancy like they do at Murray’s Cheese Bar. Pack the hash into a ring mold and top with a medium egg, poached (photo © Murray’s Cheese Bar | NYC).

[6] Switch out the Canadian bacon on Eggs Benedict for corned beef hash, as they do at Delmonico’s (photo © Delmonico’s Restaurant | NYC).

[7] Libby’s corned beef hash, still holding strong after more than 120 years (photo © Libby’s).

[8] A can of Libby’s corned beef from 1898 (photo Libby McNeill | Public Domain).

[9] A beef brisket (photo © Double R Ranch | Snake River Farms).

[10] Rock salt. You can buy it from Gourmet Food Store.

________________

*Hollandaise is made from an emulsion of clarified butter and egg yolks, with lemon juice or white wine. Béarnaise adds to that base chervil, peppercorns, shallots, and tarragon in a reduction of vinegar and wine.
 
 
†Household staples that were rationed included butter, canned milk, coffee, dairy, dried fruits, jams, jellies, lard, meat, oils, sugar, and shortening. Other rationed products were automobiles and tires, gasoline, fuel oil, coal, and firewood; nylon, silk, and shoes.

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[1] The juicy, crisp, refreshing Rave apple (all photos © Stemilt).

[2] So many apples look alike. You’ll find a label that identifies Rave.

[3] Rave apples growing on a tree in Washington State.

[4] From the tree and into the box.

[5] A flat of Rave apples at the grocery.

[6] One of Rave’s parents, the Honeycrisp.

September 25th is National Apple Day.

New apple varieties are in development constantly, usually in the agricultural departments of universities.

The objectives vary; for example, to create an apple that will grow better or produce more in particular soils and climates.

Breeders also seek to meet changing consumer demands. Crispy, for example, is now in demand.

And of course, they’re looking for the next big hit: the next Honeycrisp or Cosmic Red.

During breeding, approximately 45 different traits in the apple and the tree are tested. Here’s more about it.
 
 
THE RAVE APPLE

Red and juicy Rave is a new “signature apple” apple from Stemilt, a prominent grower headquartered in the state of Washington.

Rave is very juicy with a with “zippy flavor” and a “refreshing snappy zing,” says Stemilt.

We’re more prosaic. We’d call it very juicy and crunchy with an elegant tartness.

Rave was first introduced to consumers in the summer of 2017—seventeen years after it was first developed by David Bedford of the University of Minnesota’s apple breeding program. (He’s the same person behind the Honeycrisp apple).

It takes a long time to crossbreed an apple without using GMOs. Thousands of different crosses were made to narrow Rave down to the final varietal.

Rave is grown in Mattawa, Washington—approximately two hours north of the Oregon border. The area was chosen because it has the warmth and low altitude ideal for growing the variety.

The early ripener ripens in July, and picking begins at the end of the month. It is ready to sell in August.

When apples are picked, the bins sit in cold storage for four to five days (or for weeks, with other varieties), to let the fruit “settle.” The cells firm up a bit so they don’t bruise during packing and shipping.

As more Rave-bearing trees come have into production, there is finally enough Rave to distribute nationwide. We just got a box a few weeks ago.

Rave has a short growing season, so look for it now.
 
Rave’s Parents

Rave is a cross between the resoundingly popular Honeycrisp apple and an unreleased breeding variety called MonArk, chosen for its ability to ripen early with good color, while maintaining a crisp, juicy texture through the summer heat.

The MonArk is an apple from Arkansas, bred for that area’s severe heat and humidity. While traditionally apples get their color from fall cold snaps, the Rave is made for the heat and colors well in the heat.

Honeycrisps aren’t typically picked until early September; but Rave’s early ripening enables them to be picked in late July, kicking off apple season earlier. It is the earliest-ripening apple in Washington. (Washington is the number one producer of apples in the U.S.)
 
 
HOW A NEW APPLE IS DEVELOPED

The journey to develop a new apple cultivar is not a quick process and requires great efforts, says Stemilt.

During the 17 years from original breeding to the final release and licensing of Rave to Stemilt, the University of Minnesota conducted rigorous testing to ensure the variety was of high enough quality to be commercially released.

This process included five to six years of growing tests at multiple locations across the U.S.

Stemilt has the exclusive rights to grow and market Rave in North America.

The name of a new apple is chosen when it’s ready to be licensed. The breeder and the grower decided that the MN55 cultivar would be called Rave.
 
 
HOW TO ENJOY RAVE

Rave is a snacking apple. Like most apples, it tastes best when it’s chilled or cold.

It’s great in a fruit salad, but not hardy enough to take the heat of a stovetop or oven cooking. Instead:

 
Rave on, apple lovers!
 
 
> The History Of Apples

One of the most popular ways of cooking rice in Italy, risotto is a Northern Italian rice dish cooked with stock or broth*, stirring regularly until it reaches a creamy consistency.

Risotto can be embellished in many ways, from saffron to mushrooms to lobster and beyond.

While we love risotto, we don’t have patience to stand in front of the stove, add liquid, stir, closely watch and repeat—for 20 minutes or more! And that’s after the initial prep work.

That’s why we don’t cook it at home—but pounce upon it when we see it on restaurant menus.

But with DeLallo Quick-Cook Cheese Risotto, we can have a creamy risotto on the plate in 15 minutes after the water comes to a boil. You need only stir occasionally, not vigilantly.

The seasoned rice in the box is partially cooked in advance, using a slow absorption cooking process—just like cooking from scratch.

It is parboiled (also called converted—like Uncle Ben’s), then simmered with flavorful broth until the liquid is absorbed. The grains are then dried naturally for more than 24 hours.

The result captures the flavor and texture of the longer process, although you’ve just added water!

Recipe ideas follow. Also below:

> The history of risotto.

Elsewhere on The Nibble:

> The history of rice and the different types of rice: a photo glossary.

> The year’s 15+ rice holidays.
 
 
RISOTTO MIX-INS

You can add whatever you like to the risotto, either into the rice at the end of cooking, or as a topping. DeLallo suggests:

 
Some classic favorites in Italy are asparagus, barolo (the wine turns the rice deep red), mushrooms (photo #3), primavera (carrots, celery, onions, peas, potatoes), pumpkin/butternut, radicchio and speck, seafood, tomato and truffles.

Our personal favorite is a mix of shrimp and scallops, followed by asparagus, morels and ramps and in the spring and butternut squash and nutmeg in the fall and winter. (But like ice cream, we’ll eat any “flavor.”)

The easiest topping is some fresh-grated parmesan (there is cheese in the mix—but it’s enlivened by adding some aged parm), fresh parsley or chives and a few grinds of black pepper.

Enjoy your risotto fix. You can purchase DeLallo Quick-Cook Cheese Risotto online, or check the store locator (call ahead to see if the risotto is in stock).

At the low price of $4.29 a box, we’re giving them as stocking stuffers this holiday season.
 
 
THE HISTORY OF RISOTTO

How did rice, the staple grain of Asia, end up some 4,700 miles away, in wheat-focused Italy?

It was due to the Silk Road trade that Arab traders brought rice to the Middle East, and introduced it to Italy and Spain in the the Middle Ages.

The Moors and Saracens who settled in Sicily introduced rice to Sicily, as early as the 13th century [source].

From Sicily it spread to the Naples, and later was brought north to Milan and the Po Valley, where the short-grain rice varieties used for risotto (arborio, arborio is typically wider and longer than carnaroli and vialone nano†) found ideal growing conditions: flat lands, abundance of water, and humidity. .

Rice became a staple throughout northern Italy; and today, the Po Valley remains one of the largest rice producers in Europe.

Rice has been grown in southern Italy since the 14th century. Its cultivation eventually reached Milan in the north, where the conditions were great for growing short-grain rice.

It turned out that shorter-grain rice grew well in northern Italy, especially in the Po River Valley, where the paddies are irrigated by fast-flowing streams originating in the Alps.

The popularity of rice grew throughout Italy, primarily among the wealthy at first, since the “new” food was sold for exorbitant prices.

Rice became a huge cash crop, with enormous profits made by sellers in Genoa, Venice [source].

And once the outside world discovered the quality of the short-grain Italian rice, the money poured in, more and more was planted, it became more widely available, and the price came down. the availability of the short-grains spread, making the rice far more widely accessible.

From the 13th to the 17th centuries, rice was cooked only in boiling water. In 1779, when rice was, for the first time, wet with broth and sautèed in butter. Later, a pinch of chopped onion was added [source].
 
 
The Birth Of Risotto Milanese

The precursor: The first cookbook recipe identifiable as risotto dates from 1809: “Riso Giallo in Padella.” The rice is sautéed in butter; sausage, bone marrow, onions, saffron and hot broth are gradually added.

1809 is when the recipe for “riso giallo in padella” (pan-fried yellow rice) first appears in a cookbook. In 1929, the Milanese chef Felice Luraschi named the dish “Risotto alla Milanese Giallo.” His recipe calls for rice, fat, beef marrow, saffron, nutmeg and stock, flavored at the end with grated cheese [source].

The birth of modern risotto: A bit later in Milan, the most famous risotto dish, Risotto alla Milanese, was created. It was imbued with saffron, like paella.

In 1829 the name “Risotto alla Milanese” appears for the first time in the recipe book, “Nuovo Cuoco Milanese Economico” (New Economic Milanese chef).

For the first time the rice is not boiled, but cooked with butter and broth that is gradually poured, and enriched with beef marrow bone and cervellata, a medieval sausage stuffed with cheese, beef and veal meats, and saffron [source].

Why saffron? The region had been under Spanish rule for almost two centuries, and rice dishes, including paella, had become staples in Milan.

The slow-cooking principles of paella were combined with the local starchy, short-grain rice and an unknown chef created “Risotto alla Milanese” with rice, chicken stock, saffron, onions, butter, wine, parmesan and flat-leaf parsley [source].

As with paella, saffron provided not only flavor, but yellow-hued rice. (In 1981, the famous Italian chef Gualtiero Marchesi added a leaf of gold foil on top of his Risotto Milanese, his emblem for a noble dish signature of the Italian culinary tradition (gold foil has no flavor).

[1] DeLallo’s Quick-Cook Risotto (photos #1 and #2 © Delallo).

[2] The boxes make great small gifts for foodies.

[3] A risotto with classic toppings: green peas and wild mushrooms, with a bit of fresh thyme (photo © Cafe Clover | NYC).

[4] You can stir ingredients into the risotto, as well as use them as garnishes. This recipe mixes minced zucchini and broccolini into the rice, and tops it with roasted baby carrots, fennel and fiddleheads (photo © Blossom Restaurant | NYC).

[5] Less common but equally delicious: a fresh fig and balsamic risotto at Union Square Cafe (photo © Union Square Cafe | NYC).

[6] Risotto made with red rice at Matthew Kenney Cuisine (photo © Matthew Kenney Cuisine).

[7] Squid Ink Risotto With Shrimp: irresistible! (photo © Jeff Prehn | Barbuto Restaurant | NYC)

Risotto became a favorite way to use short-grained rice in Italy, particularly northern Italy.

Today the dish is served extensively, almost unchanged, in the kitchens and restaurants of the world.

Ingredients as varied as duck, game, pumpkin, sausage, snails, squid ink, truffles, and almost anything else are paired with this classic dish.

While arborio, carnaroli and vialone nano rices† still rule, chefs have used red rice (photo #6), black rice, and other varieties to create risotto dishes.

Almost any ingredient can be added to the rice, from shellfish to sausages, vegetables and herbs to game.

Risotto is such a popular dish that a whole festival is organized in its honor. The Festival Nazionale del Risotto takes place in Biella each year since 2012 (although obviously not 2002).
________________

*While ingredients are largely the same, there is a difference between stock and broth. Stock is made from bones, while broth is made mostly from meat or vegetables. In stock, the gelatin in the bones creates a thicker liquid. Broth tends to be thinner and more flavorful, imbued with flavor from the meat and/or vegetables.

†Arborio rice is more widely available and less expensive, but it’s not as starchy as carnaroli or vialone nano and thus absorbs liquid—which provides the creaminess—a little less well. Vialone nano is a newer variety, developed and grown in Italy since 1937. It is a cross between Vialone and Nano rice varieties. Carnaroli is the most recent, dating to about 1945, a cross between vialone and lencino. It is superior to both of its predecessors, due to its higher amylose content. Highly prized, it is the most widely used rice in Italian cuisine [source].
 

CHECK OUT WHAT’S HAPPENING ON OUR HOME PAGE, THENIBBLE.COM.

[1] It all starts with organic milk. See why organic milk is better for you (all photos © Alden’s Organic).

[2] Just give us a spoon! (The flavors: Peanut Butter Fudge, Birthday Cake, Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough.)

[4] Freckled Mint Chip, one of the great dairy-free flavors.

[5] Three types of ice cream sandwiches: traditional rectangular, round (in photo) and mini, are available in Chocolate Chip, Mint Fudge, Old School Vanilla, Sea Salt Caramel, Strawberry. Dairy-free options include Caramel Drizzle and Vanilla Bean.

[6] Enjoy ice cream bars in Classic Fudge, Orange Cream, Sprinkled Mint Chip, Speckled Strawberry, Swirled Vanilla Fudge, Vanilla Dark Chocolate and Vanilla Dark Chocolate Almond. There is a dairy-free Blackberry Fruit Bar.

If you drink organic milk, do you eat organic ice cream?

Many people realize that it makes sense to carry organic through to other dairy products.

According to the Standards of Identity in the U.S. Code of Federal Regulations, ice cream must contain at least 10% milk fat, and at least 20% total milk solids [source].

That’s why, since 2004, Alden Organics has been making ice cream from organic milk and cream, which comes from family farms.

All of Alden’s Organic products are certified Organic to United States Department of Agriculture’s (USDA) National Organic Program standards.

In addition to organic certification, the products are certified kosher by OK Kosher, and have:

 
The flavors are so tempting, we wouldn’t know where to start.

There are the classics: Chocolate, Chocolate Chip, Chocolate Chocolate Chip, Cookies & Cream, Mint Chip, Strawberry, Vanilla, Vanilla Chocolate Swirl.

There are the moderns: Coffee Chip, Cookie Dough Fudge, Midnight Cherry Chip, Moose Tracks Ooey Gooey Brownie, Peanut Butter Fudge, Salted Caramel and seasonal specialties (now it’s Pumpkin Spice).

Our fantasy: to be locked in the factory overnight with a spoon!

Until then, we’ll have to rely on the store locator.

You can see all of the products here.
 
 
ORGANIC DAIRY FREE FROZEN DESSERTS

More consumers are looking for dairy-free options, whether for dairy allergy, kosher diet, vegan diet, or other consideration.

The dairy-free ice cream category is booming, and Alden’s line is Certified Vegan line with a broad choice of flavors in:

 
Instead of using plant milks, the “milk” component is made from a combination of brown rice, coconut oil, oat flour and pea protein. There is no aftertaste.

Dairy-free flavors include: Caramel Almond Crunch, Double Strawberry, Muddie Brownie, Peanut Butter Chip, among others.
 
 
WHY ORGANIC MILK IS BETTER

Many people switched to organic milk when they became aware that conventional milk contains growth hormones (rBST, rBGH) and antibiotics.

Others switched for animal welfare.

“Organic” cows have ready and easy access to the outdoors, including shade, clean water, fresh air and direct sunlight.

They enjoy decent shelter, clean and dry bedding, a nutritionally balanced diet, and plenty of space for comfort and exercise.

Their feed and bedding are also organically certified.

This is not typically true with cows who provide “conventional” milk. Here’s more about it.

If you’d like to learn more, we highly recommend this fact sheet from the USDA website.
 
 
> The History Of Ice Cream

> The Different Types Of Ice Cream & Frozen Desserts

September 23rd is National Great American Pot Pie Day—a day to celebrate a classic comfort food..

You’ll like this recipe so much, that you’ll plan to make it again with Thanksgiving turkey leftovers.

It’s a complete dish on its own, but caterer Lesley Stowe, who created it for Thanksgiving leftovers, says to “feel free to get creative and add in whatever else may be lying around post-turkey-day-feast.”

She likes to add some of the roasted root vegetables and Brussels sprouts.

This recipe makes one family sized casserole dish; or make it more glamorous by trying it in individual crocks or ramekins.

(Hint from Lesley: Make a template with the circumference of your dish or crock and then add an inch all around. This will save you from repeatedly lifting and touching the pastry in order to see whether it fits or not.)

> Pot Pie History
 
 
RECIPE: TURKEY POT PIE

This recipe makes one 8-cup casserole or 4-6 individual pies pies.

You can substitute chicken or other poultry, even red meat (switch out the white wine for red wine).
 
Ingredients

[1] A beautiful turkey pot pie from Vancouver caterer Lesley Stowe (photo © Lesley Stowe).

[2] Look for puff pastry sheets in the freezer section. Pepperidge Farm is a widely distributed brand (photo © Dufour Pastry Kitchens).

1. BRING the stock, wine, carrots, pearl onions, celery, potato, bay leaf, salt and pepper to boil in a large saucepan. Cover, reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the turkey and simmer for an additional 2 minutes. Strain and set aside 2-1/2 cups stock, adding water or additional stock if necessary. Discard the bay leaf and set aside the stock.

2. MELT the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the flour. Cook, whisking constantly, for 2 minutes. Whisk in the reserved stock until smooth. Bring to a boil. Cook, stirring, until thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the milk and cook for an additional 2 minutes. Add the turkey mixture, peas, lemon juice and lemon zest; stir to combine. Transfer to an 8-cup oval casserole dish, or 4-6 individual crocks.

3. ROLL out the pastry, on a floured surface, to fit top of the dish(es)—including 1-inch extra all around. Brush the edge of dish with water. Center the pastry over the filling; gently press overhang to adhere to dish. Brush with the beaten egg and, using a very sharp knife, slash steam vents. Bake in 400°F oven until the crust is golden and puffed and the filling is bubbly, about 30 minutes.