[1] Latin American empanadas are made in half-moon shapes (photo © Fairway | NYC).

[2] Breakfast empanadas. Here’s the recipe (photo © Good Eggs).

[3] Dessert empanadas have become popular. Here’s the recipe for these pumpkin cheesecake empanadas.

[4] Go fusion with Buffalo chicken empanadas. Here’s the recipe.

April 8th is National Empanada Day.

Most Americans know empanadas as fried Latin American fare. They are savory turnovers: pastry dough that is filled, folded, baked or fried. For National Empanada Day, April 8th, here’s the empanadas history.

The concept came to Latin America with Spanish immigrants. The pies originated in Galicia, the northwest corner of Spain, and across the border in Portugal.

Below:

> Types of empanadas.

> The history of empanadas.

> A recipe for air fryer empanadas.

Elsewhere on The Nibble:

> Dobladas recipe: Guatemala-stye empanadas.

> The year’s 25+ Mexican and Tex-Mex food holidays.
 
 
THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF EMPANADAS

 
 
THE HISTORY OF EMPANADAS

The concept of wrapping meat in dough likely originated in Persia or the Middle East. Historians believe that the direct ancestor of the empanada is the sambusak, which originated in Arabia before migrating to India to become the samosa.

These portable, fried or baked triangles filled with spiced meat, were designed to be easily carried by travelers and soldiers.

When the Moors, Muslimd from North Africa, occupied parts of the Iberian Peninsula for nearly 800 years, from 711 to 1492. They brought their cuisine with them, and Spain adapted these portable pies into what we recognize today as
empanadas.

The first known mention of an empanada appears in a Catalonian cookbook from 1520, mentioning empanadas filled with seafood.

The Spanish name empanada comes from the verb empanar, meaning to wrap or coat in bread.

On the opposite end of the country, in Galicia, the empanadas evolved into large, circular double-crust pies that were served in slices—very different from the individual hand-pies common in the Americas.

Empanadas arrived in the Americas with the Spanish colonization of the 16th century. Not surprisingly, regional recipes varied based on local ingredients:

 
Wherever they landed, empanadas were traditionally working-class fare. Because the dough protected the filling, they were the perfect portable lunch for miners, gauchos, and field workers, easy to carry in their pockets and eat without utensils.
 
What’s for lunch? Empanadas! And these days, you can have a plate, knife, fork, and napkin!
 

[6] Use your air fryer to make empanadas. Here’s the recipe (Abacus Photo).
 
 
RECIPE: AIR FRYER EMPANADAS

You can vary the ingredients to create the filling you want. Just use the same proportions.
 
Ingredients

 
Preparation

1. HEAT the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion; cook and stir until softened, 4-5 minutes.

2. REDUCE the heat to medium-low. Cook, stirring occasionally, until deep golden brown, 30-40 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly. Gently stir in the goat cheese and tomatoes.

3. PREHEAT the air fryer to 375°F. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough to 1/4-inch thickness. Cut with a floured 3-inch round biscuit cutter.

4. PLACE 1 heaping teaspoon of filling on half of each circle. Brush the edges of pastry with water; fold circles in half. With a fork, press edges to seal.

5. ARRANGE the empanadas in a single layer on greased tray in the air-fryer basket; spritz with cooking spray. Cook in batches until golden brown, 4-5 minutes. Turn; spritz with cooking spray. Cook until the other side golden brown, 4-5 minutes longer.
 

[7] Picadillo-style empanadas with added protein from crunchy walnuts and walnut chimichurri. Here’s the recipe. Picadillo-style includes tomato sauce, olives, raisins, and spices (photo © California Walnut Board).
 

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Here’s an idea for Mother’s Day for moms who don’t want cake or other sugary dessert: Brie.

Brie and its cheese brothers are known as bloomy-rind, soft-ripened or surface-ripened (i.e., ripened from the outside) cheeses. These terms refer to their their downy, edible white rind.

The cheesemaker creates the rind by adding a powdered form of mold (Penicillium candidum, Penicillium camemberti), yeast, and/or a yeast-like fungus, Geotrichum candidum.

These microorganisms bloom on the exterior of the ripening cheeses, ultimately forming the rind. They break down the fats and proteins of a cheese, creating the creamy texture. The result: lush, creamy, unctuous cheese delight.

The longer the cheese ages, the runnier it gets. Cheese Trivia: An older cheese will develop an extra creamy, custardy layer just under the rind, which is called the creamline. It’s an extra layer of texture and flavor.

Can you eat the bloomy rind? Any serious cheese lover will: It’s delicious!
 
BRIE, CAMEMBERT & THEIR RELATIVES

It’s easy to confuse Brie and Camembert. They are similar recipes, made in different parts of France with different terroirs. They are different sizes. Here’s the difference.

Some other bloomy rind cheeses found in the U.S., both domestic and French, include:

 
However, the French cheeses are made in larger wheels and sold in wedges rather than in smaller rounds. Go for the American varieties; and if you need advice, don’t hesitate to ask your cheesemonger.

To bake or not to bake? In the warm weather, there’s no reason to bake a Brie—especially when it’s going to be sliced for individual portions.
 
CHEESE GARNISHES

You can use all of these as a top garnish (photo #2), or serve some on the side (photo #1).

 
For a savory touch, add some olives. Red cerignola olives are especially nice for the occasion.
 
BREADS & CRACKERS

Instead of baguette slices and water biscuits, go for flavorful choices such as:

[1] You can top the cheese with one fruit and let guests select from other accompaniments (photo courtesy The Almond Eater).

[2] Bring the cheese to the table cut into slices, for easy serving (photo courtesy Baldor Specialty Foods).

[3] For fall, consider chopped nuts and dried fruits. Orange zest is a nice added touch. You can also top the cheese with chunky cranberry sauce or chutney (photo courtesy Damn Delicious).

[4] You can top the cheese with homemade compote. Here’s a ginger-pear compote recipe from Eat Wisconsin Cheese, and our guidelines for making fruit compote.

Some people enjoy a cheese course instead of a sweet dessert; and some like it with a bit of salad.

Mesclun (mixed baby greens) with a light toss of vinaigrette is the way to go here. To avoid an acid clash with the sweet complements to the cheese, we make a balsamic vinaigrette.
 
 
WINE PAIRINGS WITH BLOOMY RIND CHEESES

White wines and rosés pair better with bloomy rinds than red wines. Fruity whites are better than dry whites. We like a good Pinto Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc.

Champagne or other dry sparkling wines (Cava, Crémant, Prosecco, etc.) add a festive flair, as do sweet sparklers such as Asti Spumanti, Brachetto d’Acqui (a rosé), or a dry Prosecco (in wine terminology, “dry” means sweeter).

________________

*Sweet herbs include chamomile, lavender, lemon verbena, licorice, mint, rose geranium and tarragon.
  

The feijoa (FEE-joe-ah)is an egg-shaped fruit with a thin, lime-green skin.

The fruit originated in the highlands of southern Brazil, parts of Colombia, Uruguay, Paraguay and northern Argentina. Today it is grown around the world in semi-tropical climates. New Zealand is a large grower.

While not well known in the U.S., its flavor calls up better-known fruits.

Feijoa is sometimes called the pineapple guava (guava is a brother*). Other nicknames include Brazilian guava, fig guava and guavasteen.

In recipes beyond fruit salad and stewed fruit, feijoa is as versatile as most fruits. In New Zealand, they are:

 
Since the fruit is the same shade of green when immature and ripe, you need to give it a soft squeeze. A ripe feijoa yields to pressure like a just-ripe banana.

Fruits are at optimum maturity when the seed pulp has turned into a clear jelly, with no hint of browning. Once the seed pulp and surrounding flesh begin to brown, the fruit is overripe.

Overripe fruit can of course be eaten, juiced, or turned into jam or compote [source].

Have fun with it!
________________

*Both feijoa and guava are members have the same phylogeny, all the way down to the Family level. The phylogeny is Kingdom Plantae, Clade Angiosperms, Clade Eudicots, Clade Rosids, Order Myrtales, Family Myrtaceae. They then split into different genuses. The genus and species for feijoa is Acca sellowiana. For guava, it is Psidium guajava.
  

May 5th is Cinco de Mayo. This year, it’s also the Kentucky Derby and National Hoagie Day. What’s a holiday-focused food writer to do?

We can recommend that you use the Holidays & Occasions pull-down menu at the right and peruse the content for both holidays. But we’re going to focus on custard.

Why custard? Well, May 5th is National Chocolate Custard Day (photo #5).

As we were served a panna cotta dessert (photo #1) yesterday, we thought of how it has replaced a richer custard, crème brûlée, on restaurant menus; and how decades earlier, crème brûlée replaced plain baked custard, scented with nutmeg or cinnamon.

Every culinary student studies the three classic French baked custards: crème brûlée (photo #2), crème caramel (photo #3), and pot de crème. All three are made of eggs, milk and/or cream, and sugar, in different proportions, along with a flavoring such as vanilla.

 
Our mother made that classic baked custard scented with nutmeg. It was so rich and eggy—even though she used milk instead of cream. We hesitate to bake it today because you can’t bake just one or two ramekins—and we have no restraint.
 
 
TYPES OF CUSTARD

There are more than 50 additional custard dishes and terms in our Custard Glossary, one of 100 NIBBLE glossaries that give you a great understanding of each category of food.

See the difference between custard and pudding below.
 
 
THE HISTORY OF CUSTARD

Custard as we know it dates back to the Middle Ages when it was used as a filling for a flan or a tart.

The word custard is derived from “crustade,” a tart with a crust. A popular tart filling was what we came to call custard.

After the 16th century, fruit creams became popular, and it was about this time that custards began to be made in individual dishes or bowls rather than as fillings for a crust.

Yet, as things move the full circle, today custard is used to fill tarts, Danish pastry, cream puffs, and éclairs. It is mixed into trifles and turned into savory sides, like mushroom custards.

It is turned into desserts like Bavarian creams, bread puddings, charlottes and Floating Island.

Mousse is a custard whipped into an airy froth.

Custards are prepared in two ways: stirred or cooked on top of the stove, or baked in the oven.

Stirred custards (also called crème anglaise, custard sauce, and soft custard) are cooked over low heat or in a double boiler to a thickened yet fluid consistency.

The custard is then refrigerated where it will continue to thicken. The repeated stirring prevents the custard from firming up. Instead, stirred custards are used as fillings, sauces, or ice cream bases.
 
 
THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CUSTARD & PUDDING

What Americans call pudding is a creamy, sweetened milk mixture thickened with cornstarch, then cooked.

These are found mostly in the form of chocolate pudding, vanilla pudding, butterscotch pudding, and lemon pudding. They do double duty as pie fillings.

When a recipe is exceptionally smooth and light, it is often called silk pudding.

American puddings contain no eggs. In the U.K. and Europe, they are known as blancmange.

In the U.K. “pudding” refers to any dessert. It also refers to sweet, cake-like baked, steamed and boiled puddings, usually made in a mold.

Savory puddings, such as corn pudding, are so-called because they contain milk and eggs, which thicken the mix; and savory “puddings” can be custards (we won’t go into the details at the moment).

Other foods that are called pudding include black pudding or blood pudding (which is a sausage) and Yorkshire pudding (baked batter, served as a side).

By the way, August 17th is National Vanilla Custard Day. June 26th is National Chocolate Pudding Day.

Custard and pudding tips to follow!

[1] Panna cotta (photo © Davio’s | Boston).

[2] Crème Brûlée (photo © David Venable | QVC).

[3] Crème caramel (photo © Suvir Saran).

[4] Raspberry pot de crème. Here’s the recipe from Driscoll’s (photo © Driscoll’s).

[5] For National Chocolate Custard Day, make this pot de crème. Here’s the recipe (photo © Martha Stewart).

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[2] The current and original Mallomars packages (photo courtesy NPR.org).

[3] Bake your own Mallomars with this recipe from Saveur.

Treat yourself to milk and cookies, Princess Leia-style.

You’ll need soft cookies to adhere to the rim of the glass. We used Mallomars (photo #2). They’re probably sold out by now (the season ends in April), but like all Mallomars fans, we keep extra boxes on hand until they reappear in stores in the fall.

Or, bake your own with the recipe below.

Or, bake any chocolate cookie (to evoke Princess Leia’s brunette hair buns) and notch them while they’re still warm.
 
 
MALLOMARS HISTORY

Nabisco’s Mallomars are a very popular cookie in Metropolitan New York City, the original home of Nabisco.

A graham cracker circle is topped with marshmallow, then coated with a dark chocolate. The result is a puffy, sink-your-teeth-in delight.

The cookies were introduced in 1913, the same year as the southern Moon Pie—a cookie which has similar ingredients, but a different flavor. According to Wikipedia, the first box of Mallomars was sold in West Hoboken, New Jersey (now Union City).

They are sold only from October through through April, following a tradition that began of necessity, before refrigerated trucks.

 
The concept spread. In the U.K., chef Boyd Tunnock created Tunnock’s Teacakes in 1956, using Italian meringue on a biscuit (cookie) base, covered with milk chocolate.
They look like Mallomars’ fraternal twin.

See the chocolate-marshmallow cookie variations in different countries.
 
 
HOMEMADE MALLOMARS RECIPE

Want to make your own? Here’s a recipe from Saveur (photo #3).