We’ll soon celebrate Thanksgiving, a remembrance of a harvest feast that took place 394 years ago. Pumpkin may have been served at the Pilgrims’ first harvest feast, but it wasn’t pumpkin pie. The pumpkin pie we know and love first appears in cookbooks in the early 19th century.

After a horrific first winter that saw their community reduced by half, the settlers had yet to construct ovens for baking. Even if there had been butter and shortening to spare, pie crusts wouldn’t have cooked evenly over an open fire.

But there may have been a pumpkin custard, which could be cooked in its own vessel—the pumpkin shell. Our tip today is: See if you can fit it into your Thanksgiving menu; and if not, enjoy it in advance of the big day.

Before we go on to the recipe below, here are some tidbits from Scholastic.com.

The website has a terrific account on the Pilgrims and the first “Thanksgiving” (it wasn’t called that until much later). It expands on snippets taught in school and follows the dual stories of both the Pilgrims and the Wampanoag natives who helped them. The re-enactment videos and photography bring the story to life in a fresh new way.

If some family and guests have an hour to kill on Thanksgiving Day, send everyone to the site. It will make the feast so much more meaningful.
 
 
THE FIRST THANKSGIVING

The Pilgrims, 102 adults and children set sail for Virginia on September 6, 1620. The Mayflower was thrown off course by storms, and landed at Cape Cod 56 days later, on November 11th. The party made their way to the settlement they called Plimouth as winter set in, arriving on Christmas Day. Already weakened by their travel voyage, half of the passengers failed to survive the first few months of a bitter winter.

[1] Pumpkin custard baked in a pumpkin. The recipe is below (photo © Souffle Bombay).

[2] A sugar pumpkin, the best size and shape for this recipe (photo © Art Of The Home.

Ten months after they arrived the settlers had constructed seven cottages, a common meeting house and three storehouses for the food from their first harvest. The Wampanoag Squanto taught the settlers how to plant native crops like corn and squash.

Our national holiday commemorates the feast held in the autumn of 1621 to celebrate the colony’s first successful harvest. It was considered a harvest celebration, and was not called Thanksgiving. The “thanksgiving” concept was applied in the 19th century by scholars studying that period; and the Thanksgiving holiday, setting the last Thursday of November “as a day of Thanksgiving and Praise,” was proclaimed by President Abraham Lincoln in 1863.
 
 
WHAT DID THE PILGRIMS EAT AT THE “FIRST THANKSGIVING?”

What did they eat? There’s only one surviving written account of the feast, which mentions neither turkey nor pumpkin, although we know both were plentiful locally. There were no cranberries† and no potatoes, mashed or sweet. Here’s what we do know:

 
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*The Native Americans probably couldn’t sweeten them enough to be tasty. Instead, they used cranberries for red dye.
 

[4] You can also bake the custard in small individual pumpkins (photo ©y Spoon Fork Bacon).

According to some accounts, the English settlers hollowed out pumpkins and filled the shells with milk, honey and spices to make a custard. They baked the filled pumpkin in the hot ashes of the fireplace. You, fortunately, have an oven.

This recipe creates an impressive dessert that happens to be gluten free. You can also make a savory custard version to serve as a side. Here’s an assortment of savory custard recipes.

Note that this isn’t “pumpkin custard” but a conventional custard baked inside a pumpkin. You can make a pumpkin custard by adding pumpkin purée to the custard recipe. Here’s one pumpkin custard recipe; there are many others online.
 
Ingredients For 4-5 Servings

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†The pumpkin should be 4-5 inches in height and 18 inches in diameter. Sugar pumpkins are ideal, but if you can’t find a small pumpkin, look for other winter squash in this size range (Hubbard, for example).
 
Preparation

1. PREHEAT the oven to 400°F. Prepare the pumpkin as if preparing a jack-o-lantern: Cut off the top leaving the stem intact and scoop out the seeds and pulp. Scoop out enough pulp (pumpkin flesh) for the custard, while leaving a border of pulp to serve along with the finished custard. Place the large bottom portion on a baking sheet. Reserve the top (stem end) for later.

2. COMBINE the sugar, eggs and vanilla in a mixing bowl and whisk until combined. Add the heavy cream, cornstarch and salt and whisk until fully combined. Pour the mixture into the prepared pumpkin, leaving a 3/4-inch space between the filling and the top of the pumpkin. Bake for 15 minutes; then cover the top of the pumpkin loosely with foil and bake another 15 minutes.

4. TURN off the oven, allow the pumpkin to cool for an hour, then place it a refrigerator or in your cold garage, loosely covered with plastic wrap or foil. Allow the custard to set 6 hours or overnight. This is a good recipe to assign to a guest, since if you’re making the rest of the dinner, you (a) have your hands full and (b) your fridge is packed.

5. TO SERVE: Scoop the custard into dessert bowls, scraping the sides to include some of the baked pumpkin.

They aren’t inexpensive: A box of seven smallish squares, chocolate coated and garnished with salt, is $14.00 at Fran’s.

So how about a project for a lazy Sunday: homemade salted caramels? It can also solve holiday gift-giving needs.

This recipe, which adds the seasonal touch of apple cider, was developed by P.J. Hamel for King Arthur Flour. Here are additional photos and tips.

This recipe is made in the classic French style: Salted butter is used and more salt can be added to the caramel, instead of the current vogue for sweet butter with a salt garnishing on top. We prefer the latter, so if you prefer, use unsalted butter in the recipe and garnish the top with sea salt or other fine salt.
 
BOILED CIDER

The boiled cider that flavors the caramels is simply reduced apple cider or juice. You can make it (instructions are in the recipe that follows) or buy it (King Arthur Flour sells it). If you’re making your own, you can make it up to three months in advance.

Use the extra boiled cider to add flavor to:

Try your hand at making caramels. They may become a favorite treat.

 
 
RECIPE: APPLE CIDER SALTED CARAMELS

Ingredients For 64 Caramels

 
For The Boiled Cider

Prep time is 10 minutes, cook time is 1 hour. The yield is 1-1/2 cups.

 
See the difference between cider vs. apple juice, below.
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*You can buy ready-made boiled cider from King Arthur Flour and other baking supply retailers.

†Substitute 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, 1/4 teaspoon ginger and 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg or allspice.

[4] Feeling ambitious? Dip your caramels in melted chocolate (photo © Alma Chocolate).

1. MAKE the boiled cider. BRING the cider to boiling in a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven. Reduce the heat to medium and boil gently, uncovered, for 1-3/4 hours. Stir occasionally, until the cider has reduced to 1-1/2 cups. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature.

2. TRANSFER the boiled cider to a screw-top jar with a mouth at least wide enough to insert a spoon. Cover and store in the fridge for up to 3 months. The boiled cider will thicken in the fridge. Bring it to room temperature to use in this recipe.

3. LIGHTLY GREASE an 8″ x 8″ baking pan and line with parchment paper, leaving an overhang on opposite sides.

4. COMBINE the cream, corn syrup, sugar, butter and boiled cider in a heavy-bottom, deep saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Reduce to medium-high heat and cook until the mixture reaches 248°F on a candy thermometer, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat; stir in the salt and spice.

5. POUR the hot mixture into the prepared pan. Let it stand for 12 to 18 hours at room temperature before cutting into 1″ squares.

6. WRAP the caramels: Use 6″ squares of parchment paper. (We had 5-inch squares. The difference is shorter twisted ends.) Place one caramel in the center of each square; wrap the opposite edges of the paper around the caramel and twist the exposed edges to close. If you don’t have parchment paper you can use wax paper, but you need to be careful when twisting the edges because it tears more easily.

Here’s a very helpful video on how to wrap caramels.

Since Prohibition, which began in the U.S. in 1920, “cider” has referred to the unfermented, unpasteurized apple juice. “Hard cider” is used to indicate the alcoholic beverage. In the U.K. it is the opposite, with “cider” indicating the alcoholic drink for which special cider apples are used.

It’s a most delicious addition. At Davio’s, a slice of flourless chocolate cake is topped with a slice of caramelized banana. But you can adapt the idea to almost any dessert.

A chocolate base (or other dark color) is best to contrast the beige banana; but it will be delectable on anything. (It was a hit at THE NIBBLE on top of homemade chocolate pudding.)

> The recipe is below.

> Also below: how to flambée.

But first, for your consideration:

> The history of bananas and the year’s 10 banana holidays.

> America’s favorite banana dishes.

> The history of dessert.

And a bit more culinary history…
 
 
THE HISTORY OF BANANAS FOSTER

Bananas Foster is a more elaborate version of caramelized bananas. Sliced bananas are sautéed in butter with brown sugar, banana liqueur and Grand Marnier (orange-infused brandy) or rum.

It is then flambéed at the table for a dramatic effect, and spooned over vanilla ice cream.

For the flame-averse: While igniting the dish tableside is dramatic both at a restaurant and at home, it isn’t necessary.

The original Bananas Foster recipe was created in 1951 by Paul Blangé (1900-1977), the executive chef at Brennan’s in New Orleans. The dish was named in honor of Richard Foster, a regular customer and friend of restaurant owner Owen Brennan, Sr.

It is one of the flambé desserts that also include Crêpes Suzette and Cherries Jubilee. Savory dishes are also flamed at the table, from Steak Diane to Veal Marsala. Here’s a list of flambé recipes. Note, though, that the technique has long gone out of style.

But how did it come into style?

[1] Two great desserts in one at Davio’s in Boston: Bananas Foster atop a piece of chocolate cake (photo © Davio’s).

[2] Classic Bananas Foster, à la mode (Gemini Photo).

Flambé (it means flamed in French), is a cooking procedure in which alcohol is warmed and then added to a hot pan, where it is lit to create a burst of flames. The alcohol burns off shortly and the flames die out.

While the practice of igniting food for dramatic flair can be traced to 14th century Moors, modern flambéing became popular only in the late 19th century, and by accident.

According to his memoir, in 1895 at the Café de Paris in Monte Carlo, 14-year-old Henri Charpentier (1880-1961), an assistant waiter, accidentally set fire to the liqueur in the pan of crêpes he was preparing. At the time, many foods were prepared tableside. The guests happened to be Albert Edward, the Prince of Wales (the future King Edward VII) and some friends. According to the memoir:

“It was quite by accident as I worked in front of a chafing dish that the cordials caught fire. I thought I was ruined. The Prince and his friends were waiting. How could I begin all over? I tasted it. It was, I thought, the most delicious melody of sweet flavors I had every tasted. I still think so. That accident of the flame was precisely what was needed to bring all those various instruments into one harmony of taste.”

The dish was served, and the Prince liked it.

“He ate the pancakes with a fork; but he used a spoon to capture the remaining syrup. He asked me the name of that which he had eaten with so much relish. I told him it was to be called Crêpes Princesse. He recognized that the pancake controlled the gender and that this was a compliment designed for him; but he protested with mock ferocity that there was a lady present. She was alert and rose to her feet and holding her little skirt wide with her hands she made him a curtsey. ‘Will you,’ said His Majesty, ‘change Crêpes Princesse to Crêpes Suzette?’ Thus was born and baptized this confection, one taste of which, I really believe, would reform a cannibal into a civilized gentleman. The next day I received a present from the Prince, a jeweled ring, a panama hat and a cane.”

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SOURCE: Life A La Henri – Being The Memories of Henri Charpentier, by Henri Charpentier and Boyden Sparkes, The Modern Library, New York, 2001 Paperback Edition. Originally published in 1934 by Simon & Schuster, Inc. Thanks to What’s Cooking America for the reference.

[3] Bananas Foster served banana-split style (photo © Fotolia).

[4] Bananas Foster at Brennan’s. We prefer to slice our bananas in chunks (photo © New Orleans Restaurants).

While the Davio’s recipe cuts the banana into a stylish oblong and the photo at right halves the fruit banana-split style. At Brennan’s the long slices are cut in half. We prefer chunks perhaps 3/4-inch thick—easier to spoon over ice cream…and French toast, pancakes and waffles.

Ingredients For 4 Servings

 
Plus

 
Preparation

1. CUT the bananas in half lengthwise and crosswise for a total of 4 pieces each (alternative: cut 3/4″ rounds; you’ll have more than 4 pieces).

2. MELT the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the brown sugar and cinnamon and cook, stirring until the sugar dissolves (about 2 minutes—this creates a caramel sauce). Add the bananas and cook on both sides until they begin to soften and brown (about 3 minutes).

3. ADD the banana liqueur and stir to blend into the caramel sauce.

4. LIFT lift the bananas carefully from the pan and top the four dishes of ice cream; then spoon the sauce over the ice cream and bananas and serve immediately.
 
 
HOW TO FLAMBÉ

Here’s a video on how to flambé from QVC chef David Venable. Tips:
 

 

[5] You can use Bananas Foster to top pound cake, or just enjoy it plain like this—no garnish necessary (Abacus Photo).
 

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Why not make it this weekend? Don’t like to cook? Find the nearest Melting Pot.

> The history of chocolate fondue is below.

> Chocolate fondue recipes.

> A year of fondue holidays.
 
 
RECIPE: WHITE CHOCOLATE PUMPKIN FONDUE

Ingredients For The Fondue

 
For The Dippers

 
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*Bacardi 151 is a brand of highly alcoholic rum, named for its alcohol proof level of 151 (75.5% alcohol by volume or A.B.V.). This is about double the alcohol of conventional rum (35%–40% A.B.V.). You can substitute a liqueur instead; see Step 3 below.

[2] The first dessert fondue was invented in New York City by a Swiss chef. See the history of chocolate fondue below (photo © Dairy Farmers Of Wisconsin).

1. PLACE the chocolate and cream in the top of a double boiler pot over medium heat, stirring constantly so as not to scorch the chocolate. Alternatively, melt in the microwave in 45 second increments, stirring after each one.

2. POUR the melted chocolate into a fondue pot. Add the pumpkin purée, blending gently. Taste and add more pumpkin if you like.

3. ADD the rum to the pot and light with a long match or fireplace lighter. As the rum burns away, carefully stir the mixture together. If you don’t want to purchase 151 rum or flambé, stir the equivalent amount of orange liqueur into the melted chocolate and blend.

4. SPRINKLE the nutmeg into the pot and gently fold in. The Melting Pot garnishes the top of the fondue with chopped graham crackers, but we prefer to use the graham crackers as dippers.
 
 
THE HISTORY OF CHOCOLATE FONDUE:
WHO INVENTED DESSERT FONDUE?

Konrad Egli, a Swiss chef and restaurateur (nicknamed Konni), invented chocolate fondue in the 1960s at his midtown Manhattan restaurant, Chalet Suisse.

Egli created chocolate fondue as a promotion for the Swiss chocolate bar Toblerone, which was introduced to the U.S. at the 1964 World’s Fair in New York.

The company wanted to expand the knowledge of their chocolate, and after some consideration, Egli hit on the idea of using it to make something equally new and exciting: a sweet fondue. It was on the menu by 1966.

It caught on like wildfire [source].

It was not his first fondue innovation: Egli had previously introduced fondue bourguignonne (beef fondue) at the restaurant, in 1956.

His original recipe included creamy Swiss Toblerone chocolate and kirsch, a German cherry brandy. Here’s close to the original recipe.

Earlier references, starting in the 1930s, refer to types of chocolate mousse or chocolate cake as “chocolate fondue.”

But since “fondue” is French for “melted,” the only true chocolate fondue is the pot of melted chocolate created by Egli, from those Toblerone bars.
 
 

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[2] International style: Japanese nachos, made with rice chips and spicy tuna (photo © RA Sushi).

Today is National Nacho Day, and our tip is: Go where no Mexican nacho has gone.

The appeal of Tex-Mex nachos—crunchy, creamy, spicy—cannot be denied.

But how about fusion nachos, with culinary accents (crunchy, creamy, spicy) from the world’s favorite cuisines? Below you’ll find 13 types of chips in addition to classic tortilla chips, plus recipes for 15 different “international” nachos beyond Mexican. But first…
 
 
THE HISTORY OF NACHOS

Nachos are an example of necessity being the mother of invention.

As the story goes, in 1943 a group of Army wives from Fort Duncan, in Eagle Pass, Texas, had gone just across the border to Piedras Negros, Mexico, on a shopping trip.

By the time they arrived at the Victory Club restaurant for a meal, the kitchen was closed.

But the accommodating maître d’hôtel, Ignacio “Nacho” Anaya (Nacho is a nickname for Ignacio), threw together a snack for the ladies from what was available in the kitchen: tortillas and cheese.

He cut the tortillas into triangles and fried them, added shredded Cheddar cheese, quickly heated them to melt the cheese, and garnished the dish with sliced jalapeño chiles.

When asked what the tasty dish was called, he answered, “Nacho’s especiales,” Nacho’s Special. (Food trivia: In Mexico, nachos are called totopos, the local word for tortilla chips).

The dish quickly spread throughout Texas and the Southwest. The first known appearance of the word “nachos” in English dates to 1950, from the book. A Taste of Texas. [Source]

In the beginning, nachos were a simple dish as Ignacio made them: tortilla chips, shredded melted cheese, and jalapeños.

But as time marched on, so did nachos, leading to “loaded” Tex-Mex nacho options with:

 
And while these ingredients offer a huge number of combinations, why not look outside Central American ingredients to international combinations. First…
 
 
PICK A BASE CHIP

Step away from tortilla chips (a.k.a. taco chips) or other corn chips. There are lots of different chips to be had, representing all corners of the world. Pick your base, and it will inspire the toppings.

Top the base chip with the main ingredients and cheese, melt the shredded cheese under the broiler or with a kitchen torch, and top with the sauces and garnishes.

 
 
MORE TAKES ON NACHOS

Beyond the chip, here are other spins on nachos:

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