THE HISTORY OF CORN
Corn as we know it today is very different from the wild corn that was discovered and cultivated by the peoples living in what is now Mexico. It is a cereal grain, and the original wild grass, called teosinte, had thin sprigs with tiny kernels (see an image here).
Scientists believe that people in central Mexico developed corn at least 7,000 years ago. Over the millennia, the ears of maize (corn) we know today were bred to be larger and larger, with larger kernels.
These substantial ears of maize became the staple crop. It spread north into the southwestern U.S. and south to Peru. About 1,000 years ago, as Native Americans migrated north across the continent, they brought corn with them.
When Columbus “discovered” America, he also “discovered” corn. The sweet corn we enjoy today, which occurred as a spontaneous mutation of field corn, is a family of cultivars of maize that evolved over thousands of years.
For the biology geeks among us, the genus and species of maize is Zea mays; sweet corn is Zea mays convar. saccharata var. rugosa. Zea is the Greek word for single-grained wheat, and was employed by botanists to name the species of large grasses that have edible components—i.e., the grains.
Botanically, the grain is a type of fruit called a caryopsis††, composed of the endosperm, germ, and bran (as are other grains such as barley, oats, rice, rye, and sorghum).
[12] All set to party (photo © Wisconsin Cheese).
THE HISTORY OF ELOTE
Indigenous peoples domesticated maize from a wild grass called teosinte thousands of years ago, and corn was the lifeblood of Mesoamerican civilizations like the Maya and the Aztecs.
They also developed nixtamalization—cooking the corn in an alkaline solution like limewater or wood ash, a crucial chemical process that made the grain easier to digest, unlocked nutrients like niacin (although they didn’t understand this at the time), and fundamentally shaped the Mexican diet.
During this era, corn/maize‡‡‡ was typically consumed daily as tortillas, tamales, or simply boiled or roasted on the cob.
When Spanish colonizers arrived, they introduced new ingredients that would eventually become essential to make modern elote. This included dairy cattle, which brought cheese (leading to varieties like cotija, queso fresco and other local cheeses) and lime juice (citrus fruits were native to Asia).
The name “elote” derives from elotitutl in Nahuatl, the language of the Aztecs (still spoken today).
Modern Elote
The elote we recognize today—slathered in condiments and served on a stick—was established in mid-20th-century Mexico City. As urban areas grew, street vendors (eloteros) looked for fast, portable, and enticing foods to attract customers.
The elotes (ears of corn) are usually boiled at home and transported wrapped in their husks by the elotero, the vendor.
Once on the street cart, they can be served hot from the warming drawer, or grilled over a brazier to char some of the kernels (photo #7). These grilled ears are called elotes asados.
The final ingredient to firm up the recipe was mayonnaise, which exploded in popularity in Mexico during the 1940s and 1950s. Vendors realized its high fat content and creamy texture made it the perfect adhesive for holding salty cheese and spicy chili powder to the hot, charred kernels.
In Spanish elote literally means corn on the cob, but in English it translates as “Mexican street corn.”
When cut off the cob and served in a cup with a spoon—often layered with the same ingredients plus a splash of hot cooking broth—the dish is called esquites.
There is no single word in English for esquites, so it is typically translated as Mexican corn salad or corn in a cup. The name in Spanish also derived from Nahuatl izquitl, meaning “toasted corn”.
Depending on where you are in Mexico or the U.S., you might hear esquites called something else entirely:
Chasca: Common in Aguascalientes.
Elote en vaso: Frequently used in Monterrey and throughout the Southwestern United States (Texas, Arizona, etc.).
Esquites: The most common term, used in Mexico City and central Mexico.
Trolelote: Often used in northern states like Tamaulipas.
Vasolote: Literally “corn in a glass,”commonly used in Michoacán and parts of the Pacific Coast.
The Components Of Classic Elote
While specific recipes vary, a traditional street vendor’s setup focuses on a specific balance of sweet, smoky, creamy, salty, and acidic elements.
The Base: Sweet white corn (maíz blanco), which is less sugary and more starchy than American yellow sweet corn. It’s typically boiled with epazote (an aromatic Mexican herb) and then briefly grilled for char.
The Binder: A generous coating of mayonnaise or crema Agria (Mexican sour cream).
The Salt & Funk: Crumbled Cotija cheese, a dry, firm, salty cow’s milk cheese often called the “Parmesan of Mexico.” Funk is the distinct, pungent aroma and deep flavor profiles.
The Heat: A dusting of ground chili powder, Cayenne, or a specialized blend like Tajín.
The Brightness: A final, aggressive squeeze of fresh lime juice to cut through the richness.
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*If using wood sticks, remember to soak them before adding the corn and grilling.
†Cilantro is not typically offered by street vendors in Mexico, but we like the flavor.
††A caryopsys is a dry, one-seeded simple fruit (commonly known as a grain) where the seed coat is tightly fused to the thin fruit wall (pericarp). This makes it impossible to separate the actual fruit from the seed, as can be done with conventional fruits.
**Cheddar cheese powder is the best way to make cheese corn at home.
‡Herbes de Provence are blend of herbs from the France region of Provence. It can include any assortment of bay leaf, chervil, fennel, marjoram, mint, rosemary, summer savory, tarragon and thyme. The commercial blends typically comprise savory, marjoram, rosemary, thyme and sometimes, oregano or lavender.
‡‡Recipe for Barbecue Seasoning: Combine 1 tablespoon smoked paprika, 2 teaspoons brown sugar, 1½ teaspoons salt, 1 teaspoon celery salt, 1 teaspoon dry mustard, 1 teaspoon garlic powder, ½ teaspoon black pepper.
‡‡‡Corn and maize are two different names for the same plant species, Zea mays. The primary difference lies in geography, linguistics, and technical usage. In North America, the “corn” is most common. In most other parts of the world, including the U.K. and many English-speaking countries in the Southern Hemisphere, maize is the standard term. Maize is the preferred term used by botanists, scientists, and international agricultural organizations.
Often, professional people use “corn” when discussing the edible vegetable on the table, such as sweet corn, popcorn, or corn on the cob. “Maize” is more frequently used when discussing the crop on a global trade scale or for industrial purposes, such as the production of grain, silage, or ethanol.
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