[2] Chocolate chile halva.

[3] Lavender halva.

[4] From the front: chocolate orange, date, lemongrass and marble.

[5] Caffeinated, with ground coffee beans.

[6] Vanilla topped with Pop Rocks.

[7] A halva dessert plate: mixed flavors and fruits.

[8] Dessert plate of halva with dried fruit.

[9] For a special occasion cake, just add a candle.

The sweet confection’s name derives from the Arabic word halwa, which means…sweet confection.

The best halva we can imagine comes from a relatively new company, Seed + Mill, founded by three friends in New York City, one of whom grew up in Israel.

The company was born when the latter friend couldn’t find quality tahini in the U.S., and decided to grind her own. Fresh tahini is ground on-site at their store in Chelsea Market, New York City, and sold along with other sesame-based products.

The company says that theirs is the only store in the U.S. that solely purveys sesame seed products (although we noted a frozen yogurt machine with goat’s milk yogurt).

While all products are excellent, our food-life-changing experience was engendered by the sesame-based confection, halva(h). Seed + Mill makes the most ethereal, exquisite halva we can imagine—and we have been halva-deprived, for reasons we’ll explain in a bit.
 
ARTISAN HALVA

Seed + Mill distinguishes its products using white sesame seeds from Ethiopia, considered the world’s best. Known for their richness of flavor, they are grown in the area of Humera, a city in the northwest corner of Ethiopia, at the borders of Sudan and Eritrea.

Most of the sesame used for halva and tahini sold in the U.S. is made from seeds from India and Mexico, and are not as flavorful. Hence, our disappointment with the halva available to us.

Seed + Mill’s sesame seeds are shipped from Humera to Israel, where they are roasted. Some stay in for a bit in Israel, to be ground in small batches and turned into halva. Whole roasted seeds are shipped to New York, to be ground into tahini.

The halva is made by small Israeli producers to the company’s specifications. The producers use ancient artisan techniques—no machines, but caldrons, paddles, and troughs. The sugar is boiled and whipped into a foam that produces the melting lightness of the confection. Vigorous hand-kneading produces the finest, fluffiest halvah.

Although halva is approximately half sesame paste and half sugar, you can assuage some of the guilt with sesame’s enviable nutrition† and heart-healthy fats.

The confection is only mildly sweet, the opposite of fudge and American candy bars.

And let us add: Seed + Mill has as much in common with halva brands like Joyva as McDonald’s has with Per Se.

Even the large halva cakes sold at Zabar’s and shops on the Lower East Side have become so mediocre through the use of cheaper ingredients, that we gave up eating halvah several years ago.
 
 
THE HISTORY OF HALVA

 
Here’s more halvah history.
 
 
SEED & MILL’S MOST HEAVENLY HALVA

Halva is made when tahini (ground sesame paste) is blended with sugar at a high temperature, and then hand-stirred.

The company boasts 27 flavors, including two sugar-free varieties. They’re all available online, and the retail shop in Chelsea carries about ten them at a time. Some are seasonal; for example, expect cranberry in the fall and lavender in the summer.

Wile many Seed + Mill flavors are vegan, about half of the flavors do include a bit of butter, which makes the halvah even lighter and melt-in-your-mouth. These are noted on the website.

The non-butter flavors meet dietary preferences including dairy-free, gluten-free, paleo, and vegan.

If this seems like a lot of flavors, note that Suleiman the Magnificent (1520-1566), the Ottoman Empire’s longest-reigning sultan, had a special kitchen built next to his palace that was dubbed the helvahane, house of halva. It produced some 30 varieties of the confection.

At Seed + Mill, you’ll find traditional and modern flavors:

 
Sugar-Free Flavors

While you’re at it, treat yourself to a jar of the company’s rich, silky tahini in herb, organic and organic whole seed; and two sesame spices, mixes of sesame with salt or za’atar.

RECIPE: HALVA ICED COFFEE

Seed + Mill adapted this recipe from Ben of Havoc In The Kitchen. He found it in a Russian food magazine, where it was originally made with peanut halva.

The shake-like drink does nicely as a snack, a dessert or, with the whiskey, an after-dinner drink.

Ingredients For 2-3 Servings

 
Preparation

1. COMBINE the coffee, halva, ice cubes, and ice cream in a blender. Process for 5 minutes or until smooth and foamy.

2. STRAIN and discard the tiny pieces of halva and the coffee will be silky and smooth.

[105] Serve halva iced coffee with alone or with halva dessert plate.

*The word is transliterated from Arabic, so either halva or halvah is correct.

†Sesame seeds are one of the world’s healthiest foods. Here’s a nutrition profile.
 
 

[1] Melba toast and olive tapenade. Here’s the recipe from Sprinkles & Sprouts (photo © Sprinkles & Sprouts).

[2] Chicken liver paté and Melba toast, with a dab of marmalade. recipeHere’s the recipe from Drizzle And Drip (photo © Drizzle And Dip).

[3] Salmon tartare and melba toast. Here’s the recipe from Olive Magazine. Crackers or crisps like these are thin and crunchy, but were baked that way. They are not toasted from bread, so are not toasts (photo © Olive Magazine).

[4] These are Raincoast Crisps, a NIBBLE favorite (photo Elvira Kalviste | © THE NIBBLE)).

[5] This is a copycat recipe for Raincoast Crisps from The Wandering Fig (photo © The Wandering Fig).

March 23rd is National Melba Toast Day, celebrating dry, crisp, and thinly sliced toasts.

First, and with all due respect, today’s packaged Melba toast has as much to do with homemade Melba toast as the Keebler Elves have with the best homemade cookies.

Melba toast, which became a diet staple in the U.S. thanks to manufacturers such as Devonsheer and Old London, dates to the end of the 19th century.

But as previously noted, packaged toasts are so dry and unappealing! A recipe to make your own yummy melba toast is below.
 
 
THE HISTORY OF MELBA TOAST

Melba toast was born in 1897 at the Savoy Hotel in London, where the legendary French Chef Auguste Escoffier ruled the kitchen, and César Ritz ran the hotel. Dame Nellie Melba, the great Australian soprano, was a guest.

There is an unsubstantiated tale that Melba toast was a mistake in the hotel kitchen; that the dieting diva asked for some dry toast which arrived as over-toasted, thin, and crunchy slices. However, as with the story of the history of potato chips, the guest enjoyed the result.

The more likely explanation is that Melba toast was created by Escoffier either as a lower-calorie food for the singer, or as simple fare during a bout of illness in 1897 when she was unable to tolerate richer foodstuffs.

See more foods he named for Nellie Melba at the end of this article.

It is said that César Ritz bestowed the name Melba toast, and put it on the menu.

Since then, manufacturers have marketed Melba toast as a reduced-calorie bread option.

But for those who want to enjoy a piece of Melba toast, modern crostini are a much closer match.
 
 
MELBA TOAST & CROSTINI VS. CRACKERS & CRISPS:
THE DIFFERENCE

Those thin toast points served with caviar, pâté and steak tartare…those crunchy toasts served with cheese…are they Melba toast?

And what do they have to do with biscotti and bruschetta?
 
Melba Toast Vs. Crostini

These two are very similar. Both are cut from a loaf of bread and toasted. However:

 
Melba Toast Vs. Crackers/Crisps/Toasts

In the U.S., makers of artisan crackers sometimes call them crisps, to sound more elegant. That works in the U.S., but in the U.K., crisps are potato chips.

 
Bruschetta Vs. Crostini

 
Melba Toast Vs. Biscotti/Rusks

What about savory biscotti?

 
 
WAYS TO SERVE MELBA TOAST

Whatever you call them, serve them:

 
Are you ready to toast your own?
 

RECIPE: MELBA TOAST

Melba toast is made by lightly toasting thin slices of bread in an oven or under a grill (no grill marks!), on both sides.

The thin slices are then returned to the heat with the untoasted sides towards the heat source.

 
Preparation

1. PREHEAT the oven to 250°F. Remove the crust from the loaf. You can save them and turn them into parmesan crisps, or let them dry out overnight and pulse (or use other technique) to make bread crumbs.

2. DECIDE on your toasting technique. (a) Cut the loaf into sections 3 inches thick. Cut each chunk into triangles, then cut each triangle into three or more thin slices. (b) Lightly toast thick slices of bread. While still hot, slice horizontally into two; then create triangles or rectangles as you prefer.

3. PLACE on a baking sheet and toast until golden brown. Toast bread in the oven, flipping slices halfway through, until dry, about 2 hours. Rotate the baking sheet for even browning.

4. COOL thoroughly. Then store in an airtight container.
 

MORE FOODS NAMED FOR NELLIE MELBA

Escoffier created four foods in total, in Melba’s honor. In addition to Melba toast, there are:

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Pipérade (French) or piperrada (Spanish) is a French Basque dish made from green bell pepper, garlic, onion and tomato, sautéd together and seasoned with red espelette pepper.

The word derives from piper, the Basque word for pepper. The colors—red, white and green—are those of the Basque flag (said to be a coincidence).

Basque Country straddles the border between France and Spain on the Atlantic coast, Pyrénées-Atlantiques north and south of the Pyrenees Mountains.

The area has a rich culinary heritage, including some 40 Michelin-starred restaurants and a sheep cheese, Ossau-Iraty, named best cheese in the world at the World Cheese Championships in 2011.

Pipérade is a dish from the Northern Basque Country (French Basque Country), which lies entirely within France and known as Pays Basque Français in French.

Pipérade is related to the Provençal ratatouille, which adds zucchini and eggplant to the mix. Both are colorful and versatile dishes that can be enjoyed any time of the day (and are a delicious way to add to your daily vegetable servings).

WAYS TO SERVE PIPERADE

While many of these applications may not be traditional Basque, they show the flexibility of piperade.
 
Pipérade At Breakfast

 
Pipérade At Lunch

 
Pipérade At Dinner

 
________________
*In French Basque cuisine, piment d’espelette with ham is often served over braised chicken.
________________

 
RECIPE: PIPERADE

When bell peppers are on sale, we load up and make a batch of pipérade (it can be frozen). We’re flexible on the color of the bell peppers (in fact, we prefer a mix of colors ).

While waiting for summer tomatoes (and after they’re gone), we use whole canned San Marzano† tomatoes instead of the bland plum tomatoes in the market. Drain them, but save the juice and drink it, plain or with a splash of gin.

We adapted this recipe from one by Chef Aida Mollenkamp. She peels the tomatoes. We’re lazy and often skip this step (and usually use use the peeled, canned San Marzano tomatoes, anyway).

[1] Pipérade crostini (here’s the recipe from The New York Times, and another recipe for piperade with Arctic char). [2] Eggs poached in pipérade, shakshouka-style (here’s the recipe from Au Petit Gout). [3] Chicken with pipérade, a basque classic (here’s the recipe Williams-Sonoma). [4] Sirloin with pipérade and arugula pesto (photo from Sun Basket meal delivery service).

[5] Fresh espelette peppers in the marketplace (photo courtesy Lurrak). [6] Ground espelette pepper, used in recipes (photo courtesy La Maison du Piment).

Ingredients

________________

†The San Marzano is an heirloom variety of plum tomato, originally planted in the town of the same name at the base of Mount Vesuvius, near Naples. The volcanic soil and sunny climate grow tomatoes that are among the most sought-after on earth, with remarkable, sweet, intense tomato flavor. The canned variety are also delicious.

‡Bayonne ham is a cured ham from the French Basque country. If you can’t find it, substitute prosciutto or other ham.
________________

Preparation

1. PEEL the fresh tomatoes. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil over high heat. Prepare an ice water bath by filling a medium bowl halfway with ice and water. Using the tip of a knife, remove the stem and cut a shallow X-shape into the bottom of each tomato. Place the tomatoes in the boiling water and blanch until the skin just starts to pucker and loosen, about 10 seconds. Drain and immediately immerse the tomatoes in the ice water bath. Using a small knife, peel the loosened skin and cut each tomato in half. With a small spoon, scrape out any seeds, then core and coarsely chop the remaining flesh. Set aside.

3. RETURN the pan to the heat, add the remaining 2 teaspoons of oil, and, once heated, add the onion and garlic. Cook, stirring a few times, until soft and beginning to color, about 8 minutes. Stir in the herbs and bell pepper slices and season well with salt. Cover and cook, stirring a few times, until the peppers are slightly softened, about 10 minutes.

4. STIR in the diced tomatoes, browned ham, and piment d’Espelette, and season with salt to taste. Cook uncovered until the mixture melds and the juices have slightly thickened, about 10 minutes. Remove the bay leaf and serve.
 
THE ESPELETTE PEPPER
The espelette pepper, called piment d’espelette in French and ezpeletako biperra in Basque, is a variety of species Capsicum annuum that is cultivated in the French commune of Espelette in the Northern Basque Country (Pays Basque Français).

Chiles, which are native to Central and South America, were brought to France in the 16th century. It is believed that the chiles were introduced into the Basque Nive Valley in 1523 by Gonzalo Percaztegi, a navigator who voyaged with Christopher Columbus (who brought chiles to Spain in 1494). It became popular as a condiment and is now a staple of Basque cuisine, where it has gradually replaced black pepper.
This pepper has only a maximum of 4,000 SHUs on the Scoville Scale and is therefore considered only mildly hot—at the level of cayenne and Louisiana hot sauce.

Espelette pepper can be purchased as fresh or dried whole peppers (photo #5), as ground pepper (photo #6), as purée in jars or pickled in jars. For fresh espelette, look for non-AOC espelette peppers grown in California.

Growing in French soil, its unique qualities have earned it AOC and APO classifications. An annual pepper festival organized by Confrérie du Piment d’Espelette, held the last weekend in October since 1968, attracts some 20,000 tourists [source].

If you can’t find it, substitute hot paprika or cayenne.

See the different types of chiles in our Chile Glossary.

Fresh-harvested domestic asparagus is as flavorful and affordable as it gets.

Bonus: Asparagus has just three calories per medium spear, and contains no fat or cholesterol.

It’s also nutritious:

 
The season runs through June, so dig in. May is National Asparagus Month.

Below:

> Delicious asparagus recipes.

> Beyond green: purple and white asparagus.

> Tips on purchasing and preparing asparagus.

> Do you need an asparagus pot? Tips on purchasing and preparing asparagus.

> The year’s 95+ vegetable holidays.
 

[9] Asparagus can be enjoyed warm, or chilled like vichyssoise. Here’s the recipe (photo © Julia Hartbeck | Taste Of Home).
 
 
YUMMY ASPARAGUS RECIPES

Enjoy asparagus every meal of the day!
 
Breakfast & Brunch

 
Lunch

 
Dinner

 
First Courses & Sides

 
 
A BRIEF HISTORY OF ASPARAGUS

Asparagus officinalis was first cultivated more than 5,000 years ago in the eastern Mediterranean region. The oldest reference shows the spring vegetable on an Egyptian frieze dating to 3000 B.C.E.

 
Asparagus is a perennial plant, raised in furrowed fields. It takes about three years before the plants produce spears that can be harvested. The spears are cut by hand when they reach about 9 inches in length.

The delicate asparagus plant needs a temperate climate and requires much hand labor in all phases of cultivation; hence, their higher cost.
 
 
BEYOND GREEN: PURPLE & WHITE ASPARAGUS

White asparagus is a special treatment of conventional asparagus, grown for its color.

The spears must be grown under a layer of topsoil or in the dark without exposure to sunlight. Light would engender photosynthesis and the development of green chlorophyll. The growing technique was developed in France in the mid-1600s.

If you come across fresh white asparagus and want to see if the extra cost is worth it, steam them with a bit of salt and taste their nuances before adding butter or another ingredient. You may or may not find a difference worth the money. Never buy bland, canned white asparagus.

Here’s more about white asparagus as well as purple asparagus, a breed that is larger, sweeter and tastier than the conventional green types of asparagus.

Purple asparagus was originally developed in Italy by farmers in the Albenga region of the Italian Riviera. It was first commercialized under the variety name Violetto d’Albenga.

Purple asparagus retains its color if cooked briefly (blanching, quick sauteing), but reverts ti green with prolonged cooking.
 
 
ASPARAGUS PURCHASE & PREPARATION
 
 
Buying Asparagus

Look for firm stalks of uniform width and a minimum amount of woodiness at the end. It doesn’t matter if they’re thick or slender: both are equally tender. But you need uniformity of size to cook them evenly.

The tips should be tightly closed. Once they begin to separate, it means that the asparagus is older and won’t have the best fresh flavor. If your tips have begun to wilt, soak the spears in an ice bath before cooking.

Vegetables wilt when they dry out. You can restore the moisture with an ice bath: Fill a bowl with water with ice cubes. Add the vegetables (cut as you plan to use them) and let them sit for 15 minutes or longer. Remove with a slotted spoon or tongs and drain on a cloth or paper towel and they’ll be crisp.
 
 
Preparing Asparagus

Asparagus can be boiled, grilled, roasted, steamed, tossed into soups and stews, and eaten raw as crudités.

Most cooking instructions tell you to hold a spear of asparagus in both hands and bend it until it snaps at its natural break point (which is 1-2 inches above the base). That produces rough, uneven bottoms.

We simply trim them with a knife as far as the green portion goes.

Other instructions tell you to peel the surface of the bottom quarter if they are woody. We don’t have this problem, even with the thickest asparagus. But if you’ve trimmed the white bottoms and still are concerned about woodiness, here are two options:

[2] We serve these asparagus-bacon bundles as a first course (this also works with green beans). Here’s the recipe (photo © Food Network).

[3] Burrata salad With steamed asparagus, prosciutto, and grilled or toasted bread at Barbuto | NYC.

[4] Ham and asparagus rolls with blue cheese, another special starter. Here’s the recipe (photo © Castello USA).

[5] Lovely with a glass of wine: asparagus and pickled red onion crostini on a base of hummus or bean dip (photo © Nestlé USA).

[6] Do you need an asparagus steamer? See the answer in the *footnote below.

[7] We often serve a grilled rack of asparagus with lamb chops or steak. Here’s the recipe (photo © California Asparagus Commission).

[8] Linguine With Asparagus and Parma Ham (here’s the recipe from Il Consorzio del Prosciutto di Parma).

 

[9] In addition to the familiar green asparagus, specialty stores carry the white and purple varieties. Purple tends to be sweeter and fruitier than green, milder and slightly less grassy. However, unless eaten raw or steamed very lightly, the cooking heat will turn it green! White asparagus has a more delicate, slightly bitter, less vegetal, earthy flavor. The skin tends to be tougher and more fibrous, so it’s usually peeled before cooking (The Nibble | Gemini Photo).
 
 
Cooking Asparagus

Boiled Asparagus: Bring a pot of salted water to a rolling boil, then gently tip in your prepped asparagus. Boil for 2 minutes or until the asparagus are bright green and al dente. Take them out and lay it in a single layer to cool. Top with chopped hard boiled eggs and herbs for a light lunch, or puree with a little green garlic for a simple pasta sauce.

Grilled Asparagus: Asparagus will slip through the grill if you don’t use a vegetable basket or skewers. We actually like the skewer technique, which creates a rack of asparagus. Simply skewer four or five medium or thick asparagus together, brush with olive oil, season to taste, and cook on a hot, preheated grill Preheat grill for high heat for 2-3 minutes per side (depending on thickness), or to desired tenderness.

Before you add the oil, however, use the ice bath technique described above. When the asparagus come off the grill, they’ll be moist and crisp.

Raw Asparagus: After trimming, use a vegetable peeler to remove the skin below the spear. We like to slice it thinly on an angle to create ovals, to add to salads and grain bowls, but you can also peel it into delicious ribbons. Reserve the tips of the asparagus and mix them in with the rest!

Roasted Asparagus: Heat the oven to 400°. Toss prepped asparagus on a parchment-lined baking sheet with a glug of olive oil and a large pinch of salt and roast for 5 minutes or so—until crisped at the tips and slightly browned.

Steamed Asparagus: Simply steamed fresh asparagus at peak flavor is so delicious, that we find it needs no embellishment—no salt, balsamic drizzle, butter, lemon juice or another seasoning beyond a pinch of salt. It requires just a quick engagement with a steamer or microwave) to be ready to eat. (See the *footnote for different steaming methods.)

As an added flavor accent, if you have a bottle of balsamic glaze or balsamic cream, bring it out!
 

[10] For brunch, lunch, or a first course at dinner, this asparagus-mushroom frittata is a delight. Here’s the recipe (photo © Taste Of Home).
 
 
WHERE DOES OUR ASPARAGUS COME FROM?

Asparagus is a spring vegetable, with peak season in the U.S. from May through June.

Per the USDA, U.S. growers produce some 60–70 million pounds of asparagus per year, mostly in Michigan, California, Washington, and New Jersey.

There is consumer demand for asparagus year round, both in-store and in restaurants. Because the U.S. consumes far more asparagus than it grows, most asparagus eaten in the U.S.—an estimated 80%–90%—is imported, mainly from Mexico and Peru. In 2021, the USDA reports 665 million pounds of asparagus were imported.

For U.S. fresh asparagus, the domestic season runs from January to late June or early July. According to Produce Business:

 
For the U.S. fall/winter season, fresh asparagus is supplied mainly by imports, especially:

 

[11] A field of asparagus (photo © Hochdaler | Pixabay).
 
 
________________
 
*The dedicated asparagus pot, tall and narrow, designed to stand the spears upright, is based on the idea that the tips cook faster than the tougher stems, so standing them upright lets the stems boil while the delicate tips steam above the water line. In practice, most people find the difference negligible—especially since modern asparagus is often thinner and more uniformly tender than the thick stalks of yore that inspired the special pot. Unless you cook asparagus often and care deeply about the specific texture difference, here are five ways to cook asparagus with the pans you already have:

> Skillet/sauté pan: Add ½ inch of water to a wide pan, bring it to a simmer, add the asparagus, cover, and steam for 3–5 minutes.
> Pot with a steamer basket. A standard steamer insert works perfectly. Just keep the water below the basket level.
> Microwave it. Wrap asparagus in a damp paper towel or place it in a microwave-safe dish with a splash of water and cover. Microwave for 2–3 minutes.
> Blanch it. Drop it in boiling salted water for 2–3 minutes, then transfer to an ice bath to stop cooking. Great if you want a bright green color.
> Roast it. Many cooks actually prefer roasted asparagus. Toss with olive oil, salt, and pepper, and roast at 400°–425°F for 10–15 minutes. You’ll get a slightly caramelized, nuttier flavor that steaming won’t provide.
.
 

CHECK OUT WHAT’S HAPPENING ON OUR HOME PAGE, THENIBBLE.COM.

INTRODUCTION TO THE WEDGE SALAD
 
Back in the 1950s and 1960s, restaurant menus offered hearts of lettuce salad with creamy dressings. The head was cut into quarters and plated with a slice of tomato for color.

Homemakers were fans, too.

 
The lettuce’s crunch was very popular if bland-tasting (solution: lots of dressing!). The heads kept longer in the fridge, so there was no wilted waste.

Even James Beard was a fan, recommending mixing the crisp leaves with other greens.
 

[5] Iceberg lettuce is prized for its long shelf life in the refrigerator compared to other leafy greens. It was developed in 1894 as a solution to long distance transportation issues, when other types of lettuce would wilt. See more in the ‡footnote (photo © Vika Emerson | Pexels).
 
Then came the California cuisine movement, introducing us to better varieties of lettuce. Iceberg was mocked for lacking flavor and nutrition.

Instead, foodies filled their shopping carts with romaine plus arugula and radicchio. Those with access to specialty greengrocers could get butterhead lettuce (Bibb, Boston), Little Gem (miniature romaine), and leaf lettuces (green leaf, red leaf, oak leaf, and the hard-to-find lollo rosso [a subcategory of red leaf]).

Yet, hardy, crunchy iceberg still accounts for 70% of the lettuces raised in California (down from 80% in the mid-1970s, however). It’s still popular in food service (commercial, institutional), at salad bars, and at casual restaurants.

And thanks to the retro food movement of the past decade, iceberg lettuce has returned to restaurant menus beyond the steakhouse, in the hearts of lettuce salad now known by a trendier name: wedge salad.

Let the wedge salad add fun and crunch to your meals. If you have a daily dinner salad, feature the wedge once a week. Turn it into a DIY salad buffet for family and guests. An ingredients list is below.

May is National Salad Month, June 24th is National Wedge Salad Day, and October 18th is National Blue Cheese Day.

Below:

> The history of iceberg lettuce and the wedge salad.

> How to create a DIY wedge salad bar.

> Homemade blue cheese dressing recipe.

> Wine pairings with blue cheese.

> The different types of lettuce.

> The year’s 14 lettuce holidays.
 
 
Elsewhere on The Nibble:

> The history of blue cheese.

> The different types of cheese: a photo glossary.

> Great American-crafted blue cheeses.

> More about the blues.

> The history of cheese.

> The year’s 40+ salad holidays.

> The year’s 30 cheese holidays.

> The history of blue cheese and blue cheese dressing.

> Point Reyes Farmstead’s famous blue cheese dressing and dip recipe.

> More uses for blue cheese dressing.

> How to toast nuts.

[2] BLT and avocado wedge salad with. Here’s the recipe (photo © Applegate Natural & Organic Meats).

[3] While some people use ranch dressing on a wedge salad, the original dressing is blue cheese. Here’s the recipe from Foodie Crush (photo © Foodie Crush).

[4] The ubiquitous head of iceberg lettuce, also known as crisphead or head lettuce. Just quarter it for your wedge salad.

At THE NIBBLE, we’ve added a lot to the simple wedge salad. Call it a DIY, customized, or signature wedge salad, it’s a fun munch. At the end of the list, there is an ingredients for 8 servings.

The Must Haves

 
Nice Additions

 
For A Main Dish

 
Garnishes

 
Wedge Salad Ingredients For 8 Servings

We’re hardcore blue cheese fans, but not everyone loves it. Provide an alternate dressing, such as ranch or Thousand Island.

 

[7] Ingredients for the best blue cheese dressing (photo: The Nibble).
 
 
RECIPE: BLUE CHEESE DRESSING OR DIP

Our first tip: Buy a decent blue cheese: Gorgonzola, Roquefort, whatever. It’s the major flavor component. You don’t need to buy the very finest; but don’t go for the cheapest unless you can taste it first, to see that it’s up to par.

This recipe is from Point Reyes Farmstead, a California dairy whose blue cheeses are out of this world.

You can mix the crumbles in with the parsley after the base has been blended, or serve them separately in a ramekin.
 
Ingredients For Approximately 2-1/2 Cups

 
Preparation

1. PULSE the mayonnaise, blue cheese, buttermilk, shallot, lemon zest and salt in a food processor or blender to make a chunky dip and dressing.

2. STIR in the parsley and season with plenty of pepper.

3. USE immediately or refrigerate in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days. You’ll love it.
 

[8] The best-known blues, from left to right: Cabrales (Spain), Danablu (Demark), Gorgonzola (Italy), Maytag Blue (USA), Point Reyes Blue (USA), Roquefort (France), Stilton (England). They may look similar, but each is different. If you’re a lover of blues, how about a tasting party? Wine pairings are below (photo: The Nibble).
 
 
WEDGE SALAD WINE PAIRINGS

These wines were selected to go with blue cheese dressing, but you can use them with others as well. Blue cheese is the most demanding of the dressings.

Because blue cheese is high in salt, fat, and “funk” (the mold Penicillium roqueforti), you need wines that can either provide a big contrast—sweetness—or match the blue’s intensity—high tannin or high acid.

If you want to host a tasting with the blues we’ve shown above, consider a wine from each group:

 
Serve the wines slightly chilled—even the reds—as the cold temperature is another contrast the rich, room-temperature cheese.

Add Some Nibbles. Include a tray with walnuts, dried figs, sliced baguette and honey, and other bites. See the †footnote below.
 
Sweet Wines With Blue Cheese

The saltiness of blue cheese and the sweetness of dessert wine is a world-class pairing—much like salted caramel. This is the “gold standard.”

 
 
Oxidative Wines

Oxidative* wines will appear to connoisseurs or those with adventurous palates. Their nutty, salty notes mimic the complexity of the blue veins.

 

[9] Set up a wedge salad bar with different types of wine (photo: The Nibble).
 
 
ICEBERG LETTUCE & WEDGE SALAD HISTORY

The crisphead (iceberg) lettuce variety is relatively new in the history of lettuce cultivation (see the different categories of lettuce, below).

Crisphead lettuce was a mutation: A grower discovered a different-looking, sweeter-tasting head of lettuce in his field.

Liking its flavor and superior crispness, he teamed with other growers to breed it to be even better. Thus was born what we today call iceberg lettuce.

The new variety became a top seller and remains so. It was called crisphead, its given varietal name, until the 1920s. It subsequently acquired the name iceberg because of its ability to be transported for long distances when packed on ice.

Before the iceberg named settled in, it was also called cabbage lettuce, for its resemblance to cabbage. In 1894, a Burpee seed catalog exclaimed, “There is no handsomer or more solid Cabbage Lettuce in cultivation.”

Numerous varieties of crisphead were developed, including varieties with reddish leaves tinged with green and varieties with scalloped edges. While they did not enter the mass market, you can still buy the seeds from specialty sellers.

Now about the wedge salad:

Period cookbooks, newspapers, and culinary reference books date the popularity of iceberg lettuce salads to the 1920s.

But the general consensus is that the wedge salad with creamy dressing became a ubiquitous menu entry in the 1950s. [source]

Who served the first “hearts of lettuce salad,” as it was then called?

Likely it was a steak house, given the popularity of that type of restaurant in the 1950s and the [still] ubiquitous presence on those menus. But as with so many things, we can only give credit to “an unknown cook.”
 
 

[10] Hundreds of varieties have been bred from the four basic types of lettuce: butterhead, iceberg, leaf, and romaine (photo: The Nibble).
 
THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF LETTUCE

There are four basic types of lettuce: butterhead (photo #5), iceberg (photo #5), leaf (photo #6), and romaine (photo #7), along with hundreds of hybrids bred from them.

Iceberg Lettuce: Also known as crisphead lettuce, iceberg is the most popular type of lettuce in the U.S. It’s the crispest and hardiest of lettuce varieties, lasting twice as long in the fridge as long as most other varieties. The downside: It’s not as flavorful or nutritious as other lettuces. Batavia, also known as French crisp and summercrisp, is another member of the crisphead sub-category.

Butterhead Lettuce: Comprising Boston and bibb Lettuces, these are small, loosely formed heads of soft, supple leaves. Boston is a larger and fluffier head than bibb; bibb is the size of a fist, and sweeter than Boston. Both are excellent for lettuce cups. The leaves are sweet and tender. The downside: They’re highly perishable and bruise easily, and are pricier than iceberg and romaine. Buttercrunch lettuce is also a member of the butterhead category.

Leaf Lettuce: Also known as looseleaf, cutting or bunching lettuce, this category does not form a head. Instead, the leaves branch up from a single stalk. The leaves are very tender and are often seen in baby lettuce blends. The burgundy tint of red leaf lettuce and the spicier, nuttier oak leaf lettuce add charming color to a mixed green salad. The downside: Leaf lettuces are more perishable than head lettuces and wilt easily. They are used mainly for salads.

Romaine Lettuce: Second in crunchiness to iceberg lettuce, romaine, also called cos, is a stalk lettuce that grows in upright stalks. The crunchy center ribs make the leaves sturdy, and they have a pleasant bitterness. Romaine is used mainly for salads and sandwiches, and is the lettuce used in Caesar Salad. When the outer leaves are trimmed, the smaller ones (sold as hearts of romaine) can be used as “boats” to hold protein salads (egg, chicken, tuna, etc.). Cos is the European term for romaine.

Summercrisp Lettuce: Also called Batavian or French crisp lettuce, this variety falls midway between iceberg and leaf lettuces. They are very crisp like romaine, but sweet and juicy, without bitterness (photo #9, below). The shape of the summercrisp plant is initially open, much like a loose-leaf lettuce. It then matures into a heavy, compact bunch or head.

Stem lettuce: Also called celtuce, celery lettuce, asparagus lettuce, or Chinese lettuce (among other names), stem lettuce is grown primarily for its thick stem rather than for its leaves (photo #8). The stalk is used in Asian cooking (primarily Chinese), as well as stewed and creamed dishes. It can also be shaved into ribbons for a salad. In a salad, the leaves are indistinguishable from other lettuce. The stems are traditionally stir-fried in Sichuan cooking. Prized for its woody stem, which looks like a thick asparagus stalk or wasabi root, celtuce has a nutty, cucumber-ish flavor. The stem can grow to 10-12 inches in length.

Non-lettuce: Garden lettuce belongs to the aster or daisy family (Asteraceae), the genus Lactuca, and the species L. sativa. We’d be remiss not to mention great greens that are not in the lettuce family: arugula, Asian greens (bok choy, mizuna, tatsoi), chard, chicory/escarole/radicchio, dandelion, endive/frisée, greens (beet, collard), kale, mâche, spinach, and watercress, among others.

Most of these fall into three botanical families:

 
 
THE YEAR’S 14 LETTUCE & RELATED HOLIDAYS

 
Plus:

 
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*Oxidative wines have been deliberately exposed to oxygen during the winemaking process. Oxygen has a big impact on wine as it ages and if used improperly it can be a flaw. Oxygen is the enemy of most wines, dulling the flavors and leading to premature aging. It there’s too much of it during the winemaking process, or after bottling, the wine can become oxidized (not oxidative), a major flaw.

But deliberate exposure to oxygen during aging creates a distinctive category of dessert wines generally referred to as oxidative or rancio (in Spanish). The leading examples are Sherry, from Spain; Madeira, from the island off Portugal; and the vins doux naturels from Maury and Banyuls in the Languedoc region in France; Marsala from Italy; and Port from Portugal. There are also non-fortified oxidative wine styles like Vin Jaune from France’s Jura region.

These wines are intentionally exposed to oxygen and wood to develop rich, nutty, and dried fruit flavors.
 

[11] Obsessive connoisseurs can take their blue cheese pairings down to specific nuts, whose flavor profiles best complement the specific cheese (photo: The Nibble).
 
†Nuts to serve with the wines: Yes, if you’re the ultra connoisseur, you can actually pair nuts to different styles of blue cheese.
> Hazelnuts’ (filberts) earthiness make them a companion for Danablu or Stilton. Toast them first.
> Macadamias, with the highest fat content, pair with the most aggressive, sharpest blues like Cabrales.
> Marcona almonds, buttery and sweet, are perfect with Gorgonzola Dolce and Point Reyes Blue.
> Pecans, especially candied, spiced, or toasted, are the sweetest nut, just right for Roquefort and Maytag Blue.
> Pistachios, with their almost floral and slightly piney flavor, are great with herb-forward or grassy blues like Cashel Blue (Ireland), Rogue River Blue (Oregon, USA), and Valdeón (Spain).
> Walnuts are the classic pairing with Stilton (along with a glass of Port); the earthiness of the nut skin perfectly mirrors the minerality of Stilton. But walnuts are quite versatile: with Gorgonzola Piccante, and the Americans Maytag and Point Reyes. For crumbly blues, serve dry-toasted walnuts to keep that firm, crunchy, and slightly astringent contrast. With milder, creamier blues like Cashel Blue or Gorgonzola Dolce), consider wet walnuts. Just mix the walnut pieces with honey. Delicious!

‡Iceberg lettuce was developed in 1894 by the W. Atlee Burpee & Company of Pennsylvania, and introduced in their seed catalog as a groundbreaking “crisphead” lettuce. It was developed from French Batavia crisphead varieties. Burpee promoted it to growers for its ability to produce solid, crunchy heads, even in the hot summer sun of California—a significant improvement over heat-sensitive lettuces. While some stories suggest the name “iceberg” originated in the 1920s when train cars full of lettuce were packed with crushed ice—looking like “floating icebergs”—the name appears in Burpee’s catalog of 1894. Burpee chose the name to highlight the lettuce’s “ice white” interior and crystalline, crunchy texture. By the mid-20th century, iceberg had become the most popular lettuce in the U.S. due to its success in being shipped long distances from California to the East Coast without wilting, and its long shelf life in-store and at home once it arrived.
 

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