One of our favorite I-deserve-a-treat meals is a big plateau de fruits de mer (PLAH-toe-duh MARE, platter of fruits of the sea—photo #1): a large pile, nicely arranged, of raw shellfish (clams and oysters in multiple varieties, scallops) and lightly cooked shellfish (crab legs, langoustine, lobster, lump crab meat, mussels, prawns, shrimp).

Sometimes, in coastal areas, it may include delicacies that are rarely seen inland: abalone, cockles, limpets, periwinkles, sea snails, whelks.

A plateau de fruits de mer is considered an appetizer and comes in different sizes depending on the number of participants.

We’ll just have the whole thing as our appetizer and entrée combined—two or three tiers of it. We don’t even need the mignonette sauce and spicy seafood sauce that typically accompany it; just the lemon wedges.

There are extra points for adding those custardy echinoderm corals* from sea urchins—ideally presented in their dramatic porcupine-spiky shells.

Sashimi doesn’t count here…not that we wouldn’t be just as happy to eat the contents of a large funamori (sashimi boat—photo #3).

But let the French serve their beautiful plateaux des fruits de mer and let the Japanese serve their beautiful funamori. It’s more special that way; and as the French say, “Vive la différence.”

(The Japanese translation is “Vive no ra chigai,” although we’re not certain that the Japanese actually use the phrase.)
 
 
PLATEAU DE LEGUMES, A VEGETABLE PLATTER

What if you’re allergic to seafood, a vegetarian, vegan, kosher, unable to eat raw foods, and so forth?

You can create a kindred dish that we’ll call a plateau des légumes, a tiered platter of gorgeous vegetables (photo #2).

 
This inspired idea—serving a melange of raw and cooked vegetables on a tiered tray—is from Botanica, an exciting new vegetarian-focused restaurant in Los Angeles. If you can’t be there, you can still enjoy the riches of their webzine, which is available to everyone.

We spent hours poring over their Facebook and Instagram photos of beautiful, nutritious, locavore‡ and guilt-free foods for every meal. There was nothing we didn’t want—immediately!

Whether you go for the seafood or vegetable plateau, either is:

 
If you decide to buy a tiered tray, you can also use it for cupcakes, cookies and other sweets; tea sandwiches’ and other festive presentations.
 

FOOD HISTORY: THE ENTRÉE

In the modern-day U.S. and Canada, an entrée refers to the main dish of dinner. In French cuisine, as well as in the English-speaking world outside of North America, it is a dish served before the main course in a multi-course dinner.

In French, the word originally denoted the “entry” of the dishes into the dining halls of the wealthy. You can see Medieval paintings and illustrations (here’s one) that they enter with a trumpet fanfare from the musicians’ gallery.

The procession of servants bearing a large number of dishes was led by by the maître d’hôtel, who carried the tureen. The procession marched around the room, presenting the fare to all diners before beginning to serve the courses [source].

[2] An analogous vegetable platter at Botanica in Los Angeles (photo © Botanica).

[3] Funamori: the Japanese version of plateau de mer (photo © Kintarouonsen.co.jp).

[4] Mixed grilled vegetables (photo © Taste Of Home).

[5] Grilled vegetables (photo © McCormick).

*The corals are also called roe, both terms more appetizing than their biological name: gonads. Both male and female sea urchins have the delectable, edible “sea urchin roe,” which are difficult to gather and thus a pricey delicacy.

†You can mix your own from any combination of chiles, citrus peel, coriander, cumin, fennel seed, fenugreek, garlic, ginger, nutmeg and peppercorns.

‡We acknowledge that it’s easy to cook locavore when you live in the land of perpetually plentiful produce: California.
  

[2] A cremona close-up (photo © Cucina Corriere.

[3] Mostarda vicentina has a jam-like consistency, losing the physical beauty of other mostardas (photo © Buonissimo).

[4] Mostarda bolognese has a deep plum color (photo © Foodografia | Blogspot).

[5] Mostarda di mantova, made from apples, pears, and quince (photo © Murray’s Cheese).

Years ago, on a trip to Italy, we first came across mostarda di frutta, mostarda for short.

A sweet-and-hot, fruit-and-mustard condiment from the north of Italy, it’s our go-to condiment with Italian cheeses, and some other nationalities on the cheese board. We offer more uses below.

Think of mostarda as a mustardy fruit chutney—although mostarda uses mostly candied fruits. (The Italian word for mustard in the English language is senape).

Candied whole small fruits or larger pieces of fruit are beautifully suspended in a clear syrup flavored with mustard oil. It’s clear and doesn’t cloud the syrup. Home recipes often use mustard powder mixed into white wine.

Some mostarda are lovely to look at, like part of a still-life painting.

It is cooked slowly (often over three days) to maintain the natural bright colors of the fruit and the perfect texture.

Buy jars as gifts for your foodie friends.
 
The origin of the word comes from a Latin term of the Middle Ages, mustum ardens, “grape juice [must] that burns,” a term first used in the Middle Ages by French monks, for the mustard they made (the history of mustard).

It burns because of the addition of crushed mustard seeds. Once crushed, the seeds release the fiery mustard oil that gives the mustard condiment its flavor.

 
THE HISTORY OF MOSTARDA

From the Middle Ages forward, man has sought ways to enjoy the fruits that are scarce in winter, at least through the celebrations of Christmas.

Mostarda is a food born from the need to preserve fruits for the off-season. Originally, the fruits were preserved in mosto (grape must*), unfermented grape juice that has been reduced to syrup.

Mostarda’s origins date back to the honey and mustard condiments of ancient Rome. Grape must (freshly pressed grape juice) was mixed with ground mustard seeds and honey to create a sweet mustard. Later, fruit was added.

Recipes for “modern” mostarda, dating from the 13th century, call for the use of grape must. The first written document “Fruit Mostarda for festive season” dates to 1393 and is attributed to Galeazzo Visconti, Duke of Milan [source].

 
Beginning in the 16th century, newly-affordable sugar replaced the must to candy the fruits, then mustard was added [source]. The oldest known recipe prepared with fruit, mustard, and sugar, without the grape must, was found in 17th-century Belgium.

From that point on, cookbooks began to include mostarda as a main ingredient.

By the 19th century, there were some 93 different varieties.

The sweet heat went really well with boiled meats. Initially, mostarda was served with bollito misto, a plate of mixed boiled meats that’s a specialty of northern Italian cuisine (there’s more below about uses for mostarda).
 
 
TYPES OF MOSTARDA

According to legend, mostarda was invented by chance in medieval times.

In an apothecary shop, a piece of melon fell unnoticed into a barrel filled with honey.

When it was later discovered, the melon was still as delicious as if it had been freshly picked (honey, which is virtually moisture-free, is an excellent preservative) [source].

Mostarda itself takes on different ingredients in different regions, incorporating local fruits—whatever is plentiful in the region. Raisins, nuts, spices and other ingredients can be added.

As one source notes, almost every town in the Po valley has its own recipe.

There are many, many mostarda recipes, from grape and fig (uva e ficchi) to vegetable mustards (also candied) modern recipes with non-Italian ingredients, from cardamom pods to pineapple and pumpkin.

Here are some of the most famous, named for the areas where they originated.

Any discussion starts with bollito misto a fundamental part of Northern Italian cuisine. It’s a one-pot meal, Italian comfort food.

The boiled meats vary by region, and a very elaborate presentation can include seven kinds of meat and fowl, seven vegetables and seven condiments.

The meats can include beef brisket, beef cheeks, calf’s tongue, chicken or capon (or turkey), cotechino sausage, pork shank, sweet Italian sausage, veal shank—slowly boiled in a large pot with carrots, celery, onions and potatoes.

The cooked cooked meats are sliced, placed on a platter and served with mostarda—or, for those seeking a different flavor profile, with a green herb sauce (salsa verde).

The savory broth that remains in the pot can then be turned into soup.

Why not plan a dinner party, with a multi-mostarda tasting?

Over time, mostarda became a broad-purpose condiment.

The heat of mostarda varies by producer. In general, however, it needs a hearty food that can show off both the sweet and the heat.

Serve mostarda with:

 
You can find many mostarda recipes online, and can purchase it in specialty food stores and Italian markets. You can also buy it online.

Don’t be put off by the high price for a small jar. If you look at the ingredients in the recipe, you’ll see it as a bargain.

Serve it at your next get-together—two different types, if you can.

Let us know how you like it.

And let us know if you come up with new ways to use it.
 
 
> Discover the world of mustard in our Mustard Glossary.
 
 
 
 

CHECK OUT WHAT’S HAPPENING ON OUR HOME PAGE, THENIBBLE.COM.

[6] Bollito misto, a dish often served with mustard (photo © Cucina Italiana).

[7] Add a ramekin of mostarda to a cheese and/or charcuterie board (photo © Good Eggs).

[8] A delicious appetizer or snack: bruschetta with prosciutto, burrata and pear mostarda (photo © Davio’s Boston).

[1] Raspberries combine with rosewater in these pretty-in-pink meringues from Chef Ingrid Hoffmann (photo © \Ingrid Hoffmann).

[2] Fresh raspberries are delicious plain, but we love to use them in confections and desserts (photo © Driscoll’s Berries).

[3] There are many uses for rosewater, in both food and beverages, and toiletries. Here’s a recipe for iced chai latte with rosemary from All Day I Dream Of Food (photo © All Day I Dream About Food).

We so enjoyed the red wine meringue cookies we made for Valentine’s Day that we decided to make another pink, flavored meringue for Mother’s Day.

This recipe, from Chef Ingrid Hoffmann, combines fresh raspberries with rosewater (also spelled rose water).

You can jump to the recipe below. But first:
 
 
WHAT IS ROSEWATER?

Since ancient times, roses have been used nutritionally, medicinally, for religious purposes, to make cosmetics, and as a source of perfume. The ancient Greeks, Romans and Phoenicians considered their large public rose gardens to be as important as as orchards and wheat fields [source].

Culinary rose water is believed to have been first created in Persia during the Sasanian dynasty (224 to 651 C.E.). It was a by-product of producing rose oil (attar of roses) for perfume.

It can be made at home, simply by steeping rose petals in water; and is available commercially. Here’s a recipe to make your own. If you’re making it to consume (as opposed to a skin refresher), use organic roses.

You can buy a bottle in any Middle Eastern or Indian grocery, or online.

In the Middle East and eastward to India and Pakistan, rosewater is used in, among other preparations:

 
Rosewater was used extensively by both American and European bakers until the 19th century, when vanilla extract became more readily available became.

Rosewater is an ingredient in Waverly Jumbles, baked doughnut said to be a favorite of James Monroe, the fifth president of the United States (1817 to 1825).

Today it is used by cooks around the world. For example, in Mexico it is used to flavor shave ice; in Yorkshire, England, it is still used in one of the area’s best-loved dishes, Yorkshire Curd Tart.

You can add it to iced tea, iced coffee, smoothies and soft drinks; or make a Rose Martini.

Needless to say, if you buy a bottle to make these meringues, you won’t have any trouble finishing the bottle.
 
 
RECIPE: ROSEWATER RASPBERRY MERINGUES

Ingredients For 5 Dozen Meringues

1. POSITION the racks in the upper third and center of the oven and preheat to 250°F. Spray 2 large baking sheets with cooking spray (to help secure the parchment) and line the sheets with parchment paper.

2. WHIP the egg whites and salt together in a large, grease-free bowl with an electric hand mixer set on high speed, until they form soft peaks. Gradually beat in the sugar and raspberry gelatin powder and beat until the mixture forms stiff, shiny peaks. Fold in the rosewater and vinegar.

3. TRANSFER the meringue to a pastry bag fitted with a ½-inch-wide star tip. Spacing them about 1 inch apart, pipe 1-inch-wide meringues onto the lined baking sheets. Bake until the meringues look set, about 1 hour.

4. TURN off the oven and let the meringues completely cool and dry in the oven. Carefully lift the meringues off the parchment and store them in an airtight container. These are fragile cookies, so don’t pack them tightly. We protect each layer with wax paper or parchment.
 
 
THE HISTORY OF MERINGUES

Some sources say that that meringue was invented in the Swiss village of Meiringen in the 18th century, and subsequently improved by an Italian chef named Gasparini.
 
Not all experts agree: The Oxford English Dictionary, for example, states that the French word is of unknown* origin.

The one fact we can hang on to is that the name of the confection called meringue first appeared in print in Chef François Massialot’s seminal 1691 cookbook, available in translation as The court and country cook….

The word meringue first appeared in English in 1706 in an English translation of Massialot’s book.

Two considerably earlier 17th-century English manuscript books of recipes give instructions for confections that are recognizable as meringue. One is called “white biskit bread,” found in a book of recipes started in 1604 by Lady Elinor Poole Fettiplace (1570-c.1647) of Gloucestershire.

The other recipe, called “pets,” is in the manuscript of collected recipes written by Lady Rachel Fane (c. 1612–1680) of Knole, Kent. Slowly-baked meringues are still referred to as pets in the Loire region of France (the reference appears to be their light fluffiness, perhaps like a kitten?).

Meringues were traditionally shaped between two large spoons, as is often still done at home today. Meringue piped through a pastry bag was introduced by the great French chef Marie-Antoine Carême (1784-1833—he preferred to be called Antonin), the founder of the concept of haute cuisine.

He also invented modern mayonnaise, éclairs, Strawberries Romanov, and other icons of French cuisine. Even though he wasn’t in on the beginning, he perfected the end.

________________

*Contenders from include 1700 on include, from the Walloon dialect, maringue, shepherd’s loaf; marinde, food for the town of Meiringen (Bern canton, Switzerland), is completely lacking. None of the others sounds right, either. By default, we like the Latin merenda, the feminine gerund of merere to merit, since who doesn’t merit a delicious confection? But as our mother often said: “Who cares; let’s eat!”
 
 

That’s when Mom would pull out the waffle iron and whisk together the flour, baking powder, butter, eggs and milk butter.

We ate them with a pat of butter and maple syrup brought back from Nana’s visits to see her family in Canada, and usually, with bananas or berries and bacon: basic comfort food.

In those days there were no chocolate or pumpkin waffles, no chili-infused maple syrup, no blueberry syrup, no cheddar waffles with jalapeños and tomatoes, no Caprese waffles with basil, cherry tomatoes and mozzarella cheese.

You can make waffles like these for Mother’s and Father’s Day: Check out ideas at the end of this article.

The two recipes that follow both top waffles with the focus ingredient: cheesecake or key lime mousse. They can be served as a sweet breakfast, or as dessert waffles.

Check out the different types of waffles.
 
 
RECIPE #1: CHEESECAKE WAFFLES

This recipe, by Dorothy Kern of Crazy For Crust, was sent to us by Krusteaz.

It uses a Belgian waffle mix. (Note: That’s Belgian, not Belgium, waffle. The former use is analogous to American waffles, the latter to America waffles.)

What’s the difference between Belgian waffles and regular waffles?

 
Prep time is 10 minutes, total time is 30 minutes.
 
Ingredients For 4-5 Waffles

[1] Cheesecake waffles. [2] Buttermilk pancake mix (photos courtesy Krustaz). [3] Cinnamon roll waffles: add some cinnamon to the batter and top with royal icing. Here’s the recipe from A Whisk And Two Wands.

1. BEAT the cream with a hand or a stand mixer until stiff peaks form. Set aside.

2. BEAT the cream cheese in a medium bowl until smooth. Beat in the sugar and vanilla extract. Fold the whipped cream into cream cheese mixture slowly, using a spatula.

3. PREPARE the waffle batter as directed on package, using 3 cups of waffle mix. Cook the waffles as directed.

4. SERVE topped with cheesecake mixture, garnished with berries or other fresh fruit. Serve the sauce on the side.

[3] Waffles with key lime mousse. We’d triple that scoop of mouse! (Photo courtesy Chef’s Choice.) [4] A size comparison of the larger Persian limes and Key limes (photo by Evan Dempsey | THE NIBBLE). [5] Graham cracker crumbs (photo courtesy Keebler).

This recipe was sent to us by Chef’s Choice, which made them in their space-saving waffle maker, Chef’sChoice WafflePro M852, which makes two square waffles in three minutes or less.

You can make the mousse the day before.

Ingredients For The Key Lime Mousse

 
Ingredients For 18-20 Graham Cracker Waffles

 
Preparation

1. MAKE the mousse. Place the lime juice in a bowl and sprinkle in gelatin, stirring lightly. Let sit for 2 minutes.

2. HEAT the lime juice mixture over low heat until hot, but not boiling. Take the mixture off heat and set aside.

3. HEAT the sweetened condensed milk over medium heat and add the white chocolate. Stir until chocolate is melted.

4. WHIP the heavy cream on high speed only until stiff, about two minutes. Add the lime juice mixture to whip cream and beat with an electric mixer until the ingredients are blended together.

5. ADD the white chocolate mixture to the whipped cream and beat until blended. Refrigerate mixture for four hours or overnight to stiffen.

6. PREPARE the waffles. Mix together the pancake mix, milk, brown sugar, honey, buttermilk, eggs and cinnamon in a bowl. Melt the butter and add to the mixture. Crush the graham crackers to crumb size and add to the mix. Blend with an electric mixture.

7. PLACE 1/4 cup of batter on the prepared waffle maker (or per manufacturer’s maker’s directions). Bake for 2-1/2 minutes on setting 4. SERVE immediately with a dollop of key lime mousse. Garnish with lime slices and graham cracker pieces.

 
TOP SWEET WAFFLES WITH:

For spring and summer, this honey-based cocktail can strike just the right tone: a light buzz.

We adapted it from the cocktail of the month, called Two Bees Walk Into A Bar, at Davio’s Italian Steakhouse in New York City.

It uses an easy-to-make honey simple syrup, infused with rosemary, that you can use in other drinks as well. A recipe for a Honey-Rosemary Martini is below.

RECIPE #1: HONEY & HONEY POLLEN COCKTAIL

Ingredients Per Drink

 
For The Honey Rosemary Simple Syrup

________________

*If you’re concerned about raw eggs, get pasteurized raw eggs.
________________

Preparation

1. MAKE the simple syrup. Combine the water and honey in a small pot over medium heat and whisk until the honey dissolves. Add the rosemary and cook over low heat for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat; cover the pan and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, until cool. Strain and discard the rosemary, and store the syrup in an airtight jar.

2. COMBINE the other ingredients (except ice and garnish) in cocktail shaker and shake vigorously for 30 seconds. Add the ice and shake for another 30 seconds.

3. STRAIN into an 8-ounce glass (the photo shows a large Martini glass). Sprinkle with bee pollen and serve.
 
BENEFITS OF BEE POLLEN

Bee pollen is made by bees as food for their young. It is considered one of nature’s most completely nourishing foods, containing nearly all nutrients required by humans, including approximately 40% protein.

For this reason, it is a valued nutritional supplement, but has also become fashionable as a garnish. Consider this a most nutritious cocktail.

[1] A honey of a cocktail, from Davio’s Manhattan. [2] Fresh rosemary (photo courtesy Burpee). [3] Bee pollen. Here’s more about it from Shape Magazine.

RECIPE #2: ROSEMARY-HONEY MARTINI

You can make a sweeter cocktail with a bit more simple syrup (proceed cautiously); or a less sweet cocktail by adding more vermouth.

Ingredients Per Drink

 
Preparation

1. ADD 6 ice cubes to a cocktail shaker, followed by the other ingredients.

2. SHAKE vigorously and pour into a Martini glass. Garnish with fresh rosemary.