THE NIBBLE BLOG: Products, Recipes & Trends In Specialty Foods


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TIP OF THE DAY: Flaky Salt (Or Flake Salt)

Cypress Flake Salt
[1] Cypress flake salt from the Mediterranean (photo courtesy SaltWorks).

Angsley Sea Salt
Angsley salt from the sea around Wales (photo by River Soma | THE NIBBLE).

Maldon Salt
[3] Maldon River salt from England. It forms unique pyramid-shape crystals (photo courtesy Stephen Upson).

Kosher Salt
[4] Kosher salt, from underground mines (photo courtesy WiseGeek).

  Do you have a container of flaky salt at home? If you cook, you should.

In the world of culinary salts, flake/flaky salts are coarse-grained salts with large, visible grains (the flakes).

It’s a favorite for what chefs, who use it as a finishing salt (after the food is cooked or otherwise prepared), for what they call a pop of flavor and crunch.
 
 
SEA SALT VS. MINED SALT

Salt is harvested from either sea water or rock-salt deposits in salt mines, which aeons ago were underground seas.

Sea Salt

Sea salts are produced over the world, and flake salts—flat flakes—are a subset. While fewer areas produce them, they are evaporated from Angsley (Wales—photo #2) and Maldon (England—photo #3) to Cyprus (photo #1), France, Australia and New Zealand.

  • To produce salt from sea water, the water is evaporated by the sun and wind from surface pools: barriers or containers that are constructed to contain the water. The evaporated salt crystals are then scraped from the top.
  • The shape of sea salt crystals is determined by the sun and the wind.
  • Not all coarse salts are flake salts. Some can evaporate into lumps or other shapes.
  • In the case of Maldon salt from England (photo #3), the crystals form unique pyramids instead of flat flakes.
  • In Australia’s Murray-Darling River Basin, the flake salt is an alluring pink color, thanks to carotene, a red pigment that here is secreted by algae in the water.
  • Coarse salts are processed into fine salts.
  •  
    Mined Salt/Land Salt

  • With salt mines, salt can be mined directly, or water can be pumped into the underground rock deposits and then evaporated. The salt crystals can then be processed in many different ways, including into flat flakes.
  • Mined salt can optionally be treated with anti-caking additives and/or iodine.
  • Kosher salt is a mined salt. It is coarse grained like flake salt, although it isn’t a flat flake. However, some chefs use it as such, as a finishing salt.
  •  
    Whether a sea salt or a land salt, the crunchy flakes dissolves quickly atop foods, resulting in a “pop” of flavor.
     
     
    HOW TO USE FLAKY SALT

  • Meat: Chefs particularly like to sprinkle it atop grilled or seared meats.
  • Tomatoes: Most people salt tomatoes. Flake salt makes them taste even better.
  • Chocolate bars and caranels: Salted chocolate bars typically use flake salts like sel gris or Fleur de Sel (a sel gris—gray salt—from a particular are of the French sea coast).
  • Chocolate baking: Use flaky salt to garnish any chocolate dessert: brownies, cookies, fudge, icing, truffles especially. The sweet-salty dynamic continues to grow in popularity.
  •  
    KOSHER SALT

    Kosher salt (photo #4) is a coarse-grained salt made from the same mined salt as table salt. It’s evaporated in a way to make the grains larger. As with sea salt, the evaporation process determines the salt’s final shape. But with mind salt, the company, not Mother Nature, controls the evaporation process.

    The large grain size makes kosher salt popular for sprinkling on top of meat, to deliver that pop and crunch.

    Another benefit: Kosher salt dissolves quickly, making it a popular all-purpose cooking salt—and it’s far less expensive than sea salt.

    Most brands are flat grains, but some brands evaporate their kosher salt into the elegant pyramidal in structure, emulating the famed Maldon salt.
     
    Substituting Kosher Salt

    You can’t simply substitute one type of salt for another: Measurements will be different between kosher salt, table salt and sea salt.

    That’s because the different size of the grains make different salts more or less “salty.”

    Here is a conversion chart from Morton.
     
    Kosher Salt Trivia

    Any salt can be kosher if it’s produced under kosher supervision. But that’s not how kosher salt got its name.

    Coarse salt’s original purpose was to kosher meat, which means to remove the blood from the butchered meat, a requirement of kosher law.

    Wordsmiths may wonder why its name is not koshering salt. Very astute!

    Way back, some American company labeled the boxes “kosher salt” instead of koshering salt. The shorter name stuck.
     
     
    CHECK OUT THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF SALT

    Our Salt Glossary has a complete education in the many types of salt.

      

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    RECIPE: Star-Shaped Watermelon Caprese Salad

    Watermelon Caprese
    [1] Before tomato season, substitute watermelon in your Caprese (photo and recipe courtesy Skinnytaste).

    Yellow Tomato Caprese Salad
    [2] When tomatoes are their most delicious, try this “double tomato Caprese”: beefsteak and cherry tomatoes (photo courtesy Elegant Affairs Caterers).

    Caprese Avocado Boat
    [3] Another way to enjoy Caprese: in an avocado boat (here’s the recipe from Souffle Bombay).

      Red, white and blue colors are not just for July 4th. Memorial Day is an equally patriotic holiday. It honors the men and women who died while serving in the U.S. military.

    So don’t hesitate to serve red, white and blue-themed food and drink.

    Here are more than 50 recipes, for everything from breakfast to cocktails, lunch to desserts.

    Here’s an addition to the list, a recipe sent to us by Gina Homolka of Skinnytaste. She specializes in healthy, low fat, family-friendly recipes. Sign up to get email recipes at SkinnyTaste.com.
     
     
    EASY CAPRESE, FOR A HOLIDAY OR ANY DAY

    Americans love Caprese salad, so called because the idea was brought to the U.S. by vacationers on the isle of Capri (the scoop).

    Gina says: “I love the salty-sweet combination of watermelon, mozzarella, arugula and balsamic—a delicious twist on the classic Caprese which is usually made with tomatoes, mozzarella and basil (photo #1).

    “I’m actually not a huge fan of tomatoes until late August when they are falling off my tomato plants, so watermelon is a great alternative.

    “Cutting the watermelon with a star-shaped cookie cutter makes these perfect for Memorial day or July 4th.”

    This is an easy recipe, no cooking required: four basic ingredients plus seasonings and a star-shape cookie cutter.

    You can prep the salads in advance and leave them in the fridge until you’re ready to serve.

    More advice from Gina: “I buy my fresh mozzarella in a local Italian deli and they even slice it for me on their slicer, which saves me time. I finish the Capreses with Modenacrem Balsamic Glaze from Delallo (I love this stuff!!).

    “Buying balsamic glaze is a huge time saver. The alternative is to simmer balsamic on the stove until it reduces down.”
     
     
    RECIPE: WATERMELON CAPRESE SALAD

    Ingredients For 8 Servings

  • 1/2 red seedless watermelon (1 pound), sliced 1/2 inch thick
  • 8 thin slices fresh mozzarella (1 ounce each)
  • 1 loose cup baby arugula (you can substitute basil)
  • 2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
  • Kosher salt*
  • Optional: fresh-cracked pepper
  • 2 tablespoon balsamic glaze (buy it or make it, plus many more uses for it)
  •  
    Plus

  • 4-inch star-shaped cookie cutter
  •  
    Preparation

    1. CUT 16 stars from the watermelon, about 1 ounce each). Save the excess watermelon for another use.

    2. ARRANGE half of the watermelon slices on a platter. Layer with mozzarella and arugula; drizzle each with 1/4 teaspoon olive oil. Add a pinch of salt and optional pepper to each.

    3. TOP with a final star, drizzle each with balsamic glaze and serve.

     
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    *We have a selection of flavored coarse sea salts, and used rosemary sea salt for an extra hint of flavor. You can also make flavored sea salt by mixing coarse sea salt with a dried herb of choice.
      

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    RECIPE: Spicy Thai Cabbage Salad & The History Of Cole Slaw

    For holiday weekends or cookouts, most of us pick up cole slaw at the grocery store.

    This commercial slaw generally consists of cabbage, mayonnaise thinned with vinegar, and a few shreds of carrot for color. It may be tangy and crunchy, but it can be so much more flavorful.

    Here’s how to fix up store-bought cole slaw and other salads: chicken, egg, macaroni, potato, etc.

    Or, choose one of the nine recipes below, from Asian-accented slaws to bacon and blue cheese.
     
     
    COLE SLAW HISTORY: WHAT’S A SLAW & WHY IS IT “COLE?”

    A little “slaw” history:

    Slaw is a salad consisting primarily of shredded raw white cabbage. Its origin goes back to ancient Roman times, when the cabbage was mixed with vinegar. Mayonnaise didn’t appear until the 18th century (mayonnaise history).

    Coleslaw, also spelled cole slaw, originates from the Latin colis, cabbage.

    Cabbage was easy to grow and a mainstay of the diet of the poor (who, it should be said, represented most of the population). It also was easy to store and had a long shelf life. No doubt, many European families dined on chopped cabbage salad.

    Enter the Dutch. “Slaw” comes from a variation of the Dutch sla; koolsalade, or cabbage salad, shortened to koolsla. Cabbage, “kool,” is pronounced “cole.”

    Dutch travelers to the New World made koolsla with local cabbage. Instead of being torn into bite-size pieces like lettuce salad, the cabbage was thinly sliced or shredded. “Sla” is short for “salade.”

    In English, “slaw” came to specify a salad of shredded vegetables. Over time, shredded cabbage slaw was joined by carrot slaw and more recently, broccoli slaw and shaved Brussels sprouts slaw.

    The term got anglicized in the 18th century as cole slaw (and sometimes, cold slaw).

    Today in the U.S., cole slaw is a shredded cabbage salad with a mayonnaise-based dressing, often with a shredded carrot. It can be made with red cabbage for more pizzazz, as in today’s recipe; but few people do so.

    Some people add fruits: diced mango or pineapple, raisins, sliced grapes, etc. We didn’t use them in the recipe because of the peanut dressing; but you can easily add dried cherries, raisins, or other dried fruits.

    Coleslaw can be dressed with vinaigrette or mayonnaise. Some regional American recipes use mustard.
     
     
    RECIPE: THAI-ACCENTED COLE SLAW

    This recipe for Thai-accented cole slaw is adapted from Beekman 1802. Thai ingredients like peanut butter, peanuts, ginger, and soy sauce add flair; and the Thai-style dressing replaces the mayonnaise.

    Prep time is 15 minutes, and cook time for the dressing is 6 minutes.
     
     
    Ingredients

  • 1 pound red cabbage, coarsely shredded (about 5 cups)
  • 2 cups coarsely chopped basil
  • 1/3 cup finely diced cubano pepper
  •  
    For The Dressing

  • 2 tablespoons sesame seeds, preferably toasted
  • 2 teaspoons sesame oil
  • 1/3 cup peanut butter
  • 5 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon ginger honey
  • 2 teaspoons fresh grated ginger
  • 3 tablespoon soy sauce
  • 1 teaspoon grated horseradish
  • 1/4 cup white wine
  • Optional garnish: chopped salted or honey-roasted peanuts
  •   Spicy Thai Cabbage Salad
    [1] Red cabbage slaw with Thai accents. The recipe is below (photo courtesy Beekman 1802).

    Cole Slaw With Blue Cheese
    [2] Red, white and blue cole slaw. The blue is blue cheese (photo courtesy Eat Wisconsin Cheese).

    Spicy Thai Cole Slaw
    [3] Peanut cole slaw with granola (photo courtesy Nuts For Granola).

    Spicy Thai Cole Slaw[4] Spicy Thai cole slaw (photo courtesy A Communal Table)

     
    Preparation

    1. TOAST the sesame seeds (optional). Heat a small skillet over medium heat. Add the sesame; cook and stir for 2 minutes or until golden brown and fragrant. Immediately pour out of the hot pan to avoid over-toasting.

    2. COMBINE the cabbage and peppers in a large salad bowl.

    3. COMBINE the dressing ingredients in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and immediately reduce heat to simmer. Simmer for four minutes.

    4. REMOVE from the heat and immediately toss with the cabbage-peppers mix. Once it has cooled to room temperature, add the basil and toss again. Refrigerate and serve cool or at room temperature.
     
     
    MORE SLAW RECIPES

  • Apple Cole Slaw With Lemon Ginger Yogurt Dressing
  • Asian Slaw With Snow Peas & Pear
  • Bacon & Blue Cheese Cole Slaw
  • BBQ Slaw
  • BLT Slaw
  • Cabbage Slaw With Lime-Cumin Vinaigrette
  • Citrus Slaw
  • Dijon-Vanilla Broccoli Slaw
  • Fixes For Store-Bought Cole Slaw
  • Pear & Cabbage Slaw
  • Spicy Thai Cabbage Slaw
  • Vanilla Slaw
  • Vietnamese Cabbage Slaw
  •  
     

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Sausage & Beer Pairings

    Beer and Sausage Pairing
    [1] What’s on your Memorial Day table? How about a sausage-and-beer tasting (photo courtesy Dovetail Brewery | Chicago)?

    Sausage Roll Garnish
    [2] What’s under the toppings? Grilled sausages, to pair with beer (photo courtesy Tete | Chicago).

    Sausages On The Grill
    [3] What’s on your Memorial Day table? How about a sausage-and-beer tasting (photos courtesy Les Trois Petits Cochons)?

    Sausage Platter Les Trois Petits Cochons
    [4] What’s on your Memorial Day table? How about a sausage-and-beer tasting (photos courtesy Les Trois Petits Cochons)?

    Les Trois Petits Cochons Sausages
    [5] What’s on your Memorial Day table? How about a sausage-and-beer tasting (photos courtesy Les Trois Petits Cochons)?

      Memorial Day is the unofficial start of grilling season.

    Along with the chicken, steaks and fish on the grill, how about sausages? Better yet, how about a sausage and beer painting?

    While there are good brands across the country, we especially enjoy the sausages of Les Trois Petits Cochons (lay-TWAH peh-TEET coe-SHONE, a.k.a. The Three Little Pigs).

    Available nationwide, the brand began in our home town of New York City, so we’ve been eating them for a decade or two (along with the pate and other charcuterie).

    When we asked the brand what beers they would pair with the sausages, they were forthcoming with these recommendations. The pairings can be ported to any brand of sausage.
     
     
    SAUSAGE & BEER PAIRINGS

    Whether your sausage is chicken, lamb or pork, there’s an excellent pairing of light- or medium-bodied beer (the different types of beer).

    Lovers of heavy-body beers can substitute a doppelbock for medium-body beers.

    Andouille Sausage – Pork Sausage with Spices
    PAIRING: A medium-bodied beer such as an ale, IPA or bock beer.

    Chicken Andouille – Chicken Sausage with Spices
    PAIRING: A light-bodied beer such as a lager or a medium-bodied beer such as an ale.

    Chicken Merguez – Chicken Sausage with Harissa
    PAIRING: A medium-bodied beer such as an ale, IPA or bock beer.

    Chicken Provençale – Chicken Sausage with Spring Vegetables
    PAIRING: A medium-bodied beer such as an ale, IPA, or bock beer.

    Chicken Sausage with Spinach & Gruyere Cheese
    PAIRING: A medium-bodied beer such as an ale, IPA or bock beer.

    Merguez Sausage – Lamb Sausage with Spices
    PAIRING: A light-bodied beer such as a pilsner or a medium-bodied beer such as an ale.

    Smoked Chicken Sausage with Apples & Calvados
    PAIRING: A light-bodied beer such as a lager, pilsner or wheat beer.
     
     
    Are you hungry yet?

    We sure are!
     

    21 WAYS TO USE LEFTOVER SAUSAGE

    Instead of reheating the sausages for the plate or a roll, change the format.

    Slice them, dice them, or remove the meat from the casing; serve with:

  • Beans or lentils
  • Biscuits and sausage gravy
  • Braised cabbage or sauerkraut (choucroute garnie)
  • Breakfast scramble/casserole/strata
  • Breakfast burritos/tacos
  • Caramelized onions or leeks and bell peppers
  • Cheeseburger garnish
  • German potato salad with sausage and gherkins
  • Kabobs with grilled vegetables
  • Mashed potatoes and sausage/shepherd’s pie
  • Mixed Green Salad
  • Pasta/pizza/mac and cheese (add green peas!)
  • Pigs in blankets
  • Rice or grains (try fried rice!)
  • Savory muffins or bread pudding
  • Soup garnish (how about clam chowder “surf and turf?”)
  • Spanish-style torta/tortilla or Italian frittata
  • Stuffed peppers
  • Stuffed portabella mushrooms
  • Stuffing
  • Tapas appetizer/hors d’oeuvre
  •  
    ABOUT LES TROIS PETITS COCHONS

    Les Trois Petits Cochons has produced award-winning, all natural pâté and charcuterie since 1975 by crafting small, handmade batches using high-quality ingredients. One of the most awarded specialty food companies in North America, Les Trois Petits Cochons began as a small charcuterie in Greenwich Village, New York City. Today it leads the pâté and charcuterie industry, offering a complete line of artisanal pâtés, mousses, terrines, sausages, saucissons, smoked meats and other French specialties.

      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Turning Bland Foods Into Flavorful Foods

    Two days ago we showed how to give international flair to poke, the Hawaiian spin on sashimi salad.

    Today, our colleague Hannah Kaminsky transforms one of the blandest foods in America (via Italy): gnocchi.

    Here, she makes a fusion dish of potato gnocchi and Indian spices (photo #1), to create “samosa* gnocchi,” inspired by the spicy Indian fried potato dumplings.

    She illustrates how you can take any bland food, from noodles to tofu to chicken breasts to tilapia, and turn them into fab food with the right spices.

    “Fix up the gnocchi with a pinch of curry powder, for example” says Hannah, “and you could consider each starchy sphere as a naked samosa, stripped of its deep-fried pastry shell.”

    Hannah, who specializes in making flavorful food in under 10 minutes (see her new book in photo #3), notes that packaged gnocchi make fast work of this preparation.

    In addition to a main dish, she suggests serving them “as a brilliantly spiced side dish that could complement a wide range of proteins or simple stews.”
     
     
    RECIPE: SAMOSA GNOCCHI

    Ingredients

  • 1 package (16-17 ounces) potato gnocchi
  • 1 tablespoon coconut oil
  • 1/3 cup full-fat coconut milk
  • 2 1/2 teaspoons Madras curry Powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon garam masala
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • 1 cup frozen peas, thawed
  • Optional: mango chutney, to serve (recipe below)
  •  
    Preparation

    1. BRING a medium pot of water to a boil and add the gnocchi, using a spatula to gently break them apart. Cook just shy of al dente, as the dumplings will continue to soften in the curry sauce. In some cases, this might amount to only 1 or 2 minutes in the water, so keep a close eye on the process and test frequently by poking the pieces with a fork. Drain and rinse with cold water to immediately stop the cooking process.

    2. MELT the coconut oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, and add the par-boiled gnocchi. Spread out the gnocchi to cover the bottom of the pan as evenly as possible. Resist the urge to stir for about two minutes, allowing the gnocchi to dry and very lightly toast. Separately…

    3. WHISK together the coconut milk, both spice mixtures, and salt before pouring them into the pan. Turn down the heat to medium-low, stir thoroughly, and simmer for 1 or 2 minutes longer, until the sauce coats the gnocchi nicely. Toss in the thawed peas and serve with mango chutney on the side, if desired.
     
     
    RECIPE: QUICK MANGO CHUTNEY

    Chutney is a spiced condiment of Indian origin (chatni is the Hindi word for strongly spiced) made of fruit or vegetables. It is typically served as an accompaniment to food, not as a spread.

     

    Curried Gnocchi
    [1] Fusion food: Italian gnocchi meet Indian curry (photo courtesy Hannah Kaminsky).

    Types Of Chutney
    [2] There are many recipes for chutney, both sweet and savory. You can buy them or make them (photo courtesy Indian Home Cooking). Here, cilantro and tamarind chutneys.

    Real Food Really Fast
    [3] Delicious, plant-based meals in 10 minutes? How can you resist? Get Hannah Kaminsky’s book on Amazon.

     
    The spice level can range from mild to hot, and the consistency from a fine relish to a preserve or conserve. Fruit chutney consists of chopped fruit, vinegar, spices and sugar cooked into a chunky sweet-tart-spicy mix. According to one explanation, it “blurs the Western distinction between preserves and pickles.”

    “There are more types of chutney on the market than there are days in the year,” says Hannah, “from creamy coconut to fiery habanero varieties. One of my favorites is made from mango. You can pick up a jar of it at most grocery stores, but you can also throw together a quick version at home.”

    This recipe makes 2 cups (3 – 4 servings).
     
    Ingredients

  • 1-1/2 cups diced, frozen mango
  • 1/2 cup diced tomato
  • 1/4 cup diced yellow onion
  • 1/4 cup golden raisins
  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice
  • 1 teaspoon ground ginger
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
  • 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
  • 1/8 teaspoon salt
  •  
    Preparation

    1. PLACE the mango and all ingredients in a microwave safe dish, stir well, and heat on full power for 4 to 7 minutes. The fruit should be softened, syrupy, and well-seasoned. This chutney will keep well for up to a week if stored in an airtight container in the fridge.
     
     
    ABOUT HANNAH KAMINSKY

    Hannah is a food photographer, recipe developer, and specialist in vegan cooking and baking. She is the author of five books, most recently, Real Food, Really Fast.

    Follow her on BittersweetBlog.com.

    ________________

    *Samosas are individual fried or baked triangles, often eaten as an appetizer or snack food. It has a savory filling, such as spiced potatoes, onions, peas and lentils, minced lamb or minced beef. They can also include macaroni/noodles and cheese. Here’s more about them.
     
     

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