[1] Start the day with a bowl of labneh, fruit, and granola (photos #1 through #7 © Yaza Labneh).

[2] Spread labneh on your bagel. Here, it’s layered with sliced mini cucumbers and pitted olives.

[3] Blend labneh and olive oil for a creamy salad dressing.

[4] For a snack, top labneh with chopped cucumbers, onions, olives, and tomatoes, and serve with pita or pita chips.

[5] The three flavors of Yaza Labneh.

[6] Crudités with Spicy Chili Yaza Labneh dip.

[7] A vegan sandwich of Spicy Chili labneh, beets, walnuts, and arugula.

[8] These Jewel Box Labneh Balls are a treat for the eyes and palate. Here’s the recipe (photo © A View From Great Island).

The Lebanese dip and spread labneh is made by straining Greek yogurt, an already strained yogurt, removing even more liquid. It’s doubly strained yogurt and a thick, creamy base for a spread or dip. It’s almost like a softer cream cheese, without the carrageenan or carob bean gum used to enable the block to be sliced.

In the U.S. it is sometimes referred to as as a “yogurt cheese.” While there are fresh cheeses that look like labneh (fromage frais* is the best example), here’s the difference between yogurt and cheese:

 
Not only is labneh delicious, but it is quite healthy: high in calcium, protein, and probiotics.

Alternate spellings are labaneh, lebnah, labne, or labni, among other spellings. The word is transliterated from Arabic. Laban is the Arabic word for yogurt.

Pronunciation differs, too (see the footnote‡).
 
> The history of yogurt.

> The different types of yogurt: a glossary.

> The history of labneh is below.

> So is a recipe to make labneh at home from Greek yogurt.
 
 
YAZA LABNEH, OUR TOP PICK OF THE WEEK

Our Top Pick Of The Week is Yaza Labneh, a new brand. It’s made in the Catskills with cow’s milk from New York State dairy farms.

And, it’s made in three wonderful flavors: Plain, Spicy Chili, and Za’atar & Olive Oil. The latter two are currently the only flavored labneh brands in the U.S.

You’ll see za’atar mentioned several times in this article. It’s a staple spice blend of the Middle East, combining sesame seeds (often toasted) and sumac, with dried herbs such as oregano or marjoram and thyme, plus toasted spices like coriander and cumin. Here’s more about it.

All three flavors are great on bagels, toast, or as dips.

Yaza† labneh is simply delightful and has become a major part of our dairy consumption.

 
 
GET YOUR YAZA LABNEH

The brand plans to be a staple in every American home. Traditionally, labneh has been sold in ethnic/specialty stores but it is currently sold in 17 states** with the aim to be in every state.

As of this writing, Yaza is sold in 17 states: CO, CT, FL, GA, IL, IN, LA, MD, MI, NC, NJ, NY, OH, PA, TN, VA, and WI. The brand is currently in discussion with upscale and mass retailers nationwide.

> Here’s a store locator.
 
 
THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN LEBANESE & TURKISH LABNEH

There are two types of labneh, Lebanese labneh and Turkish labneh. They are very different.

 
 
HOW TO ENJOY LABNEH

Labneh is tangier and creamier than yogurt, and it’s meant to be eaten with savory ingredients. That hasn’t stopped American cooks from turning it into cheesecake, desserts with berries, flan, and even whipped cream.

But let’s start with classic uses in Lebanon and other Middle Eastern countries:

 
To port it over to the typical American diet, it can be quite versatile:

 
 
THE HISTORY OF LABNEH

The exact origin of yogurt is uncertain, but it is thought to have appeared in Mesopotamia around 5000 B.C.E.

Cheeses made from strained yogurt have been eaten for thousands of years in the Levant (a large area in the Eastern Mediterranean region of West Asia that comprises modern-day Israel, Jordan, Lebanon, Palestine, Syria, and a small part of southern Turkey—see image #9, below).

Nomadic Bedouin tribes, who inhabited the Syrian Desert since at least 6000 B.C.E., used labneh as an important source of protein and even had a dry version to carry while traveling (think of modern yogurt powder, that can be reconstituted with water).

The Armenians are widely credited with introducing labneh throughout much of the Middle East many centuries ago.

The popularity of labneh grew quickly and before long every culture throughout the Middle East and beyond had developed its own unique version. The main differences between varieties are:

 
 
RECIPE: HOMEMADE LABNEH

Labneh is extremely easy to make, and in Lebanon, almost every family has their own special family recipe and technique. They typically make it from homemade raw milk yogurt, but you can use store-bought Greek yogurt.

1. SPRINKLE Greek yogurt with a bit of salt.

2. LINE a colander with cheesecloth, set it over a large bowl, and add the yogurt. Allow it to strain in the refrigerator or a cool room for 24 hours.

That’s it! Your labneh is ready to eat and will keep, in a tightly covered container, for up to two weeks in the fridge.

But you can also customize the flavor:

3. MIX IN your favorite herbs, such as fresh or dried chiles, chives, dill, garlic, or parsley.

We also like to add sliced scallions or blend in a bit of tomato paste.

Finally, can also form it into balls and preserve it in olive oil, where it will keep for months. Here’s how.

*Fromage frais is a light, fresh cheese that originated in France. It looks like Greek yogurt, but it’s technically a cheese. It has a mild, slightly tangy flavor and a smooth, creamy texture. It is often used as a spread or dip, although it can also be used in recipes to substitute for cottage cheese, mascarpone, ricotta, or sour cream. Frûche (pronounced froosh) is another fresh French cheese that has a mild flavor and a smooth, creamy texture. It’s like fromage frais but has a slightly higher fat content and thus is richer.

**In the Northeast, check Balducci’s, Caraluzzi’s Markets, D’Agostino, Gristedes, King’s Food Markets, Morton Williams, Union Market, and other independent retailers and specialty stores across the nation.

†The brand name, Yaza, is a mashup of taza, meaning fresh in Arabic; meza, the Arabic term for small plates/appetizers; and yogurt, as labneh is strained yogurt. The swirl in our logo mimics how labneh is traditionally presented in a bowl or plate as a dip. Clever!

‡The pronunciation differs per country. In Lebanon, it is pronounced LAB-NEH. You may hear LAB-NAH, LOB-NEH, LEB-NAY or other pronunciations across various countries and regions.
 
 

October is National Popcorn Poppin’ Month. Make your popcorn flavor of the month Old Fashioned Bourbon Maple Popcorn with Pecans.

Accented with warming flavors of bourbon, orange, and bitters, this maple-glazed popcorn recipe is a fun, cocktail-inspired snack perfect for sharing.

Serve it with cocktails, or grab a bowl for movie night.

> Check out the “matching” Maple Old Fashioned recipe below.

> See more popcorn recipes, both every day and seasonal, including Halloween and the holidays.

> The history of popcorn.

> The history of Bourbon.

> The history of maple syrup.
 
 
RECIPE: MAPLE PECAN POPCORN

You can substitute rye or other whiskey for the Bourbon. For a “mocktail” popcorn, substitute non-alcoholic bourbon.

Ingredients

 
Preparation

1. PLACE the popcorn and pecans in a large bowl.

2. COMBINE the maple syrup, bourbon, and butter in a small saucepan set over medium-high heat; bring to a boil. Cook, swirling the pan for 3 to 5 minutes or until the mixture thickens to corn syrup consistency.

3. STIR in the orange zest and bitters.

4. DRIZZLE the maple syrup mixture over the popcorn; toss to evenly coat. Cool completely and serve.
 
 
RECIPE: MAPLE BOURBON OLD FASHIONED
 
Ingredients Per Drink

 
Preparation

1. COMBINE the first three ingredients in a mixing glass and stir to combine.

2. POUR into a rocks glass over ice. Garnish with orange peel and cherry. The garnishes can be skewered on a cocktail pick.
 
 
 
 

CHECK OUT WHAT’S HAPPENING ON OUR HOME PAGE, THENIBBLE.COM.

[1] Maple pecan popcorn (photo © The Popcorn Board).

[2] Maple syrup adds a touch of sweetness like kettle corn (photo © Nadine Primeau | Unsplash).

October is National Applejack Month, but we can’t remember the last decade in which we had some. We’ll remedy that today with an applejack cocktail, the Jack Rose (photo #1), recipe below. You can find more applejack recipes online.

Applejack is a type of brandy produced from apples.

The U.S. government standards accord that applejack and apple brandy are the same thing.

But applejack is different from the most famous apple brandy, Calvados from the Normandy region of France, to which it is often compared.

The difference: Calvados is made from cider apples, whereas applejack is made from eating apples. Distillers can use:

 
Here’s more about the apple varieties used to make applejack.

Applejack has been associated with four presidents of the United States:

 
Applejack is having a renaissance, with craft distillers making their marks. You can see some of them in photos #6, #7, #8, and #9.

But the first brand sold in America was Laird’s. The history follows.

Craft applejack isn’t cheap—typically $40 or more per bottle—but it’s worth it. Do avoid the cheaper varieties made with bright-red artificial color and laden with artificial ingredients. Good grenadine—not the cheaper stuff—is essential to making good applejack.
 
 
> What is hard cider?

> Apple cider history.
 
 
THE HISTORY OF APPLEJACK, AMERICA’S FIRST SPIRIT

Most people might thank that Bourbon was America’s first spirit, but applejack came first. Bourbon (1789), corn whiskey (moonshine) sometime in the mid-1700s*, and Tennessee whiskey (1825) came after.

Popular in colonial times, applejack was often made at home until it began to be sold commercially.

Applejack was once the nation’s most popular drink. America’s earliest cocktail may well have been the apple toddy (photo #10), which is applejack blended with boiling water and demerara sugar syrup [source]. Here’s a recipe, that also includes some sherry.

It slipped from favor in the 19th and 20th centuries as other spirits grew in popularity—Bourbon and rum in the 19th century and gin, tequila, vodka and whiskey in the 20th.

But at the beginning, in 1698, Alexander Laird, a County Fife Scotsman, emigrated from Scotland to America with his sons Thomas and William. William settled in Monmouth County, New Jersey.

William probably was making scotch back in the old country, but here he turned his skills to using the abundant apples of the New World [source].

Apple brandy was first produced in colonial New Jersey in 1698 by William Laird, a Scots American who may have been a distiller in his Scottish homeland. Now run by the eighth generation of Lairds, until the 2000s it was the country’s only remaining producer of applejack, and continues to dominate applejack production.

At the time the Laird family began to produce applejack, it was commonly produced at home from cider made after the apple harvest. It was consumed at home and shared with neighbors.

Back then, Applejack was also imbibed in an unaged form dubbed Jersey Lightning [source].
 
 
The First Licensed Applejack Distillery

The first commercial sales of Laird applejack was recorded in the family ledger in 1780.

That year, after the war, Robert Laird incorporated Laird’s Distillery as the new nation’s first licensed commercial distillery [source].

However, perhaps because applejack is much less popular than other spirits, it is left off the list of the oldest licensed distilleries in America, much less the first!
 
In 1920, with the beginning of the Prohibition era, Laird’s was forced to ended the production of liquor and pivoted to produce apple juice.

But in 1931, John Evans Laird received permission to produce apple brandy for “medicinal purposes” and stockpiled bottles applejack until the repeal of Prohibition in 1933. Then, the company was able to hit the deck running.

Before 1968, applejack was synonymous with apple brandy. It was only when consumer preferences started moving towards lighter products like vodka and gin that applejack’s distinct identity took shape.

The Lairds worked with the government to establish a new federal standard for blended apple brandy, and as a result, applejack is now defined as a blend of at least 20% apple distillate with neutral grain spirit that must be aged at least two years in oak [source].

In 1972 the Laird family launched the Blended Applejack spirit category, to meet meet consumer demand for lighter, lower proof spirits. Laird’s Applejack is now made from a blend of apple brandy (35%) and neutral grain spirits (65%).

Modern applejack has a mellower flavor than original applejack. Laird’s is still the go-to brand, but today there are several craft distilleries making applejack.

In the 2010s, a number of smaller craft distilleries began to produce applejack in colder climes: in Michigan (Coppercraft—photo #6), New Hampshire (Old Hampshire—photo #9), New York’s Hudson Valley (Cornelius——photo #7), and Pennsylvania (Eight Oaks—photo #8), among others.

The name applejack derives from the traditional method of producing the drink, called jacking. It’s the process of freezing fermented cider and then removing the ice, increasing the alcohol content. See the next section to see how it was made.
 
 
JACKING: HOW APPLEJACK WAS MADE

Applejack was traditionally produced from the hard cider that was the everyday drink for most Americans in the 18th century. Naturally fermented and low in alcohol, hard cider was safer than well water, cheaper than beer, and easy to make at home.

Jacking was a low-tech method where spirits were distilled not by the usual method of heating, but by freezing.

Any household with a supply of hard cider and cold weather could make applejack via freeze distillation.

Cider produced from the fall harvest was left outside during the winter. Periodically the frozen chunks of ice which had formed were removed, thus concentrating the unfrozen alcohol in the remaining liquid.

An alternative method involved placing a cask of hard cider in the snow, allowing ice to form on the inside of the cask as the contents began to freeze. Then, the cask was tapped to pour off the still-liquid portion of the contents.

With each freeze, the water in the cider crystallized into slushy ice. Each time the ice was skimmed off, and the concentration of alcohol grew, until what is left in the barrel reached about 40 proof: the clear spirit that is applejack [source].

The alcoholic content rose from the fermented cider, at less than 10%, to 25% to 40% in the concentrated alcohol of applejack.

Because freeze distillation was a low-cost method of production compared to evaporative distillation (which required a still and the burning of firewood to create heat for evaporation), hard cider and applejack were historically easier to produce—although more expensive than grain alcohol [source].

Modern commercially produced applejack is not produced by jacking but rather by blending two distilled spirits: apple brandy and neutral grain spirit.
 
 
RECIPE #1: JACK ROSE COCKTAIL

Perhaps the most famous applejack cocktail is the Jack Rose cocktail. It was created around the turn of the 20th century, and named for its rosy color (from the grenadine).

Its origin is uncertain, but researchers peg it to either New York or New Jersey, likely made with Laird’s Applejack, made in New Jersey at the oldest licensed distillery in the U.S., established in 1698.

The cocktail quickly found fans who enjoyed it until the advent of Prohibition.

It was a favorite cocktail of John Steinbeck and was mentioned by Ernest Hemingway in “The Sun Also Rises.” (1926).

It remained popular beyond 1948, when it was featured as one of six basic drinks to know in David Embury’s 1948 book “The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks” [source].
 
Ingredients Per Drink

 
Preparation

1. COMBINE the applejack, lemon juice and grenadine in a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake vigorously until well chilled, 15 to 20 seconds.

2. STRAIN into a coupe glass, and garnish with a lemon twist.
 
 
RECIPE #2: THE WIDOW’S KISS

If you happen to have yellow Chartreuse and Benedictine, you can try this cocktail.

Ingredients Per Drink

 
Preparation

1. SHAKE all ingredients with ice. Strain into a chilled coupe glass.
 
 
RECIPE #3: RECIPE #3: JUMPING JACK

Ingredients Per Drink

 
Preparation

1. SHAKE all ingredients with ice. Strain into a chilled coupe glass.

[1] The Jack Rose cocktail gets its pink color from grenadine. The recipe is below (photo © Williams Sonoma).

[2] For the Jack Rose cocktail, grenadine. Here’s an easy recipe to make your own (photo © Sonoma Syrup Co.).

[3] For the Jack Rose cocktail, fresh lemon juice—and a lemon twist as garnish (photo © Deva Williamson | Unsplash).

[4] The original applejack brand: Laird’s (photo © Laird And Company).

[5] Pink Lady, one of the newer apple varieties used to make applejack (photo © Good Eggs).

[6] Coppercraft Applejack is made in Michigan (photo © Coppercraft Distillery).

[7] Cornelius applejack is made in the Hudson Valley of New York State by Harvest Spirits. They also make Distiller’s Reserve Applejack, distilled twice aged for 11 years (photo © Copake Wine Works).

[8] Eight Oaks is a newer brand of craft applejack (photo © Jessica Glebe Designs | Eight Oaks Distillery).

[9] Old Hampshire Applejack is distilled in New Hampshire (photo © Tamworth Distilling).

[10] An apple hot toddy, perhaps the first American cocktail. Here’s the recipe (photo © US Apple).

*Corn whiskey was first made sometime in the mid-1700s, by Scottish and Irish immigrants who were familiar with the whiskey-making techniques of their homelands. It was a rustic spirit that was not aged and mostly intended for immediate consumption [source]. The term “moonshine” comes from the fact that illegal spirits were made under the light of the moon, to avoid detection from authorities. They avoided paying the government tax on alcohol, which began shortly after the American Revolution [source].

[1] These twice-baked popovers are savory, with bacon and cheese (photos #1, #2, #3, and #8 © King Arthur Baking).

[2] A popover pan enables the top to be puffy.

[3] Popover mix speeds the process.

[4] With a popover pan, air circulates around each well (photo © Fox Run | Amazon).

[5] You can see the difference between Yorkshire puddings and the popovers in the previous photo. Here’s Gordon Ramsay’s recipe (photo © House and Garden).

[6] Compare this flat Yorkshire pudding pan to the popover pan in photo #4 (photo © Masterclass | Amazon)

[7] The classic pairing of Yorkshire pudding and roast beef.

[8] Popovers made in a muffin tin don’t puff up, but they’re still delicious.

Today’s recipe is for breakfast popovers, baked, halved, and stuffed with bacon, eggs, and cheese.

They’re a special treat for breakfast or brunch, and even for lunch with a green salad and/or tomato soup.

Popovers are unique, light and airy rolls—puffs, if you will, made from an egg batter in a special pan so that they puff up.

They get their name because their tops pop over their baking pan.

The exterior is golden brown and crisp, the interior soft and eggy with a large pocket of air.

Popovers are an Americanization of Yorkshire Pudding, a classic British Sunday lunch, served with roast beef and gravy. They use the same batter.

The difference:

 
> The history of popovers.

> The history of Yorkshire Pudding.

> The different types of bread: a glossary.

> See how to use leftover popovers, below.
 
 
RECIPE: TWICE-BAKED BREAKFAST POPOVERS WITH BACON, EGGS & CHEDDAR

With this recipe from King Arthur Baking, you can make standard-sized popovers for a more substantial meal, make mini popovers as finger food to serve as a side with other breakfast foods, or serve the minis as hors d’oeuvre for later in the day.

However you serve them, you’ll get accolades for this savory, airy treat.

Yield: 10 to 12 standard, 20 to 24 muffin-sized, or 28 to 36 mini popover halves.
 
Ingredients

 
Preparation

1. PREHEAT the oven to 400°F with a rack positioned in the lower part of the oven.

2. PREPARE the batter for the popover mix according to package instructions, allowing it to rest at room temperature for 30 minutes before baking.

3. POUR the batter into a heavily-greased 6-cup standard popover pan, a 12-cup standard muffin pan, or a 12 cup mini popover pan, filling the cups 2/3 to 3/4 full. Note: if you use the mini popover pan, you’ll have to bake a second, partial batch to use up all the batter.

4. PLACE the pan in the oven, and bake the popovers for 34 to 38 minutes (30 to 34 minutes for mini popovers), until they’re a deep golden brown. While the popovers are baking…

5. PREPARE the bacon, egg, and cheese mixture. Cook the bacon crisp by whatever method you prefer (e.g., baking instead of frying), then chop it into 1/4″ to 1/2″ pieces. Set aside.

6. BEAT the eggs with the milk or cream, salt, and pepper. Set aside.

7. SET a large pan over medium heat and add the butter. Once the butter has melted, add the light green and white scallions and cook until softened. Add the egg mixture and cook, stirring constantly until the eggs have just barely set and are still slightly wet (they’ll cook further when baked in the popovers).

8. TRANSFER the egg and scallion mixture to a mixing bowl, allow to cool slightly, then stir in the cooked, chopped bacon and the cheese. Set aside.

9. REMOVE the popovers from the oven, wait 5 minutes, and turn them out onto a rack. Do not turn off the oven.

10. ASSEMBLE. Once the popovers are cool enough to handle, cut each one in half lengthwise (a sharp, serrated knife is very helpful here). Spoon the egg mixture into the hollow portion of each popover half (you’ll need about 1/4 cup for the large popovers, 3 tablespoons for the popovers made in the muffin cups, and 2 tablespoons for the mini popovers).

11. PLACE the popover halves on a parchment-lined baking sheet, sprinkle with extra cheese if desired, and bake at 400°F for 10 to 12 minutes, until the cheese has melted and the edges have turned golden.

12. REMOVE the popovers from the oven, garnish with the dark green scallions, and serve hot or warm.
 
 
MORE POPOVER RECIPES

 
Can you make popovers in a muffin tin?

Yes. They’ll taste the same but without the same airiness, and they won’t have puffy tops. See photo #8.
 
 
WHAT TO DO WITH LEFTOVER POPOVERS

“Popovers are a fleeting pleasure, says P.J. Hamel of King Arthur Baking. “As soon as they emerge from the oven they start to settle a bit, and as they cool the steam migrating through their softening crust can make them a bit tough and leathery.”

However, that doesn’t mean that you need to gobble them as soon as they emerge from the oven.

While that’s the optimal way to enjoy them, popovers served within 4 to 5 hours of baking will still be quite tasty.

Although the crisp crust will have gone away, they’ll still be soft and airy inside.

More options:

 
 
BUY POPOVER MIX

Buy King Arthur Baking Popover Mix for yourself, and extra boxes as gifts for friends.

These days, like Christmas decorations, pumpkin spice latte sales seem to begin in August. Even if that’s an exaggeration, it’s only by one month. So we normally wait until after fall begins to promote the PSL.

Since September 29th is National Coffee Day and October 1st is National Pumpkin Spice Day, get ready to celebrate the season with a homemade Pumpkin Spice Latte.

We highly recommend the Pumpkin Pie Latte syrup from Sonoma Syrup Co.

There are other PSL syrups out there, but none of them matches the quality of Sonoma Syrup.

Their line of infused simple syrups are infused with botanicals and/or juice.

Infusion transfers the flavor of the botanicals—fresh mint leaves, lavender buds, lime juice, ginger, Meyer lemon peel, etc.—into pure cane sugar simple syrup, giving each variety the most natural, authentic flavor.

The Pumpkin Pie Latte syrup captures the warmth and spices of the season. It’s made with the rich flavors of natural pumpkin purée; premium cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, clove, and allspice; and vanilla bean extract blend.

Use it as a substitute for sugar to sweeten and flavor flavor:

 
The recipe follows, but first:

> The history of pumpkin spice latte.

> The history of pumpkin spice.

> What the first bakers of pumpkin pie used.
 
 
RECIPE #1: PUMPKIN SPICE LATTE

Prep time is 1 minute.
 
Ingredients Per Serving

 
Preparation

1. FILL a mug with the steamed milk, espresso, and simple syrup.

2. TOP with foamed milk or vanilla bean whipped cream.

3. SPRINKLE with cinnamon sugar.
 
 
RECIPE #2: SPICED PUMPKIN OLD FASHIONED

Prep time is 3 minutes.

Ingredients Per Drink

 
Plus:

 
Preparation

1. ADD all ingredients to a shaker filled with fresh ice.

2. SHAKE, strain and pour into a rocks glass filled with new ice.

3. GARNISH and serve.
 
 
MORE PUMPKIN SPICE RECIPES

These recipes don’t require pumpkin spice syrup. You can make them with the ingredients you already have in your kitchen.

[1] Pumpkin Spice Latte, the trend that became a fixture (photos #1, #3, and #4 © Sonoma Syrup Co.).

[2] Two shots of espresso for the PSL (photo © Nathan Dumlao | Unsplash).

[3] The Pumpkin Old Fashioned is made with regular coffee instead of espresso.

[4] Plus, whiskey for Old Fashioned whiskey, here, rye (photo © Old Forester).

[5] Don’t forget the pumpkin spice syrup!