THE NIBBLE BLOG: Products, Recipes & Trends In Specialty Foods


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Good-Bye Fruitcake, Hello Fruitcake Cookies Recipe

There are fruitcakes, some delicious, some unfortunate. They are a classic but polarizing holiday dessert. And then, there are fruitcake cookies, irresistible finger food that will remain popular far beyond the holidays.

Sun-Maid, seller of popular dried fruits that go into fruitcakes (and many other recipes) during the holiday season—has formally announced an amicable break up with fruitcake.

At some point, it’s time to move on, says Sun-Maid. So they enlisted top pastry chef Duff Goldman to think outside the cake pan. The recipe for his creation, Forget Fruitcake cookies, is below, using several of Sun-Maid’s dried fruits.

Most of us have been eating Sun-Maid since childhood, starting with raisins. Today the line is very nicely expanded to include these dried fruits:

  • California Dried Mission Figs
  • California Dried Golden Figs
  • California Whole Pitted Prunes
  • Deglet Noor Chopped Dates
  • Deglet Noor Pitted Dried Dates
  • Dried Mango
  • Dried Mixed Berries (cranberries, cherries, blueberries)
  • Mediterranean Apricots
  • Raisins (Blueberry Lavender Raisins, California Sun-Dried Raisins, Golden Raisins, Mixed Jumbo Raisins, Zante Currants)
  •  
    The brand also offers Fruity Raisin Snacks and Yogurt-Covered Raisins.
     
     
    BEYOND BAKING

    We love to snack on the dried fruits, toss them onto or into pound cakes, ice cream and sorbet, and make a trail mix of assorted dried fruits and nuts.

    We also rehydrate the fruits into a kind of fruit relish. We combine the rehydrated Mediterranean Apricots, Dried Mixed Berries, Chopped Dates, Dried Mango, and Mixed Jumbo Raisins with a splash of Grand Marnier or white wine. (You need to chop the apricots and the mango.)

    Now, onto “Forget Fruitcake.”
     
     
    GOOD-BYE FRUITCAKE, HELLO FRUITCAKE COOKIES

    Duff Goldman created his “Forget Fruitcake” cookies. which are three-layer cookies filled with jam and iced with chocolate (photo #1), in the manner of Italian Rainbow Cookies (photo #2).

    These kits are designed to comfort you, no matter what or who you’re breaking up with this holiday season and will include Duff Goldman’s very own “Forget Fruitcake” cookie recipe, inspiring culinary creativity amidst this devastating split.

    We baked them on Friday and by Saturday they were all gone. Next steps: Bake a double bath and freeze what you don’t use.
     
     
    RECIPE: DUFF GOLDMAN’S “FORGET FRUITCAKE” COOKIES

    Prep time is 2 hours including baking time.
     
    Ingredients For 30-40 Pieces

  • 2 cups (255 grams) all-purpose flour
  • 8 ounces almond paste
  • 1½ cups (340 grams) butter, room temperature
  • 1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar
  • 4 eggs, separated
  • 1 teaspoon almond extract
  • Pinch of cinnamon
  • Pinch of nutmeg
  • Pinch of ginger
  • Salt
  • 1 teaspoon lemon zest
  • 1 teaspoon orange zest
  • ½ cup Sun-Maid Golden Raisins & Apricots, chopped
  • ½ cup Sun-Maid Raisins & Prunes, chopped
  • ½ cup Sun-Maid Dried Mixed Berries, chopped
  • 1½ cups water
  • 12 ounces semisweet chocolate chips
  • 6 ounces heavy cream
  • Blanched almonds
  • Yellow food coloring
  • Red food coloring
  • Violet food coloring*
  • Fruit jam of your choice (we used raspberry)
  • Garnish: 1 blanched almond and 1 apricot slice per cookie
  •  
    ________________
     
    *You can purchase violet food color or can mix your own with 2 drops of red to 20 drops of blue.

     
    Preparation

    1. CHOP each pairing of dried fruit and place in individual bowls. Add ½ cup of boiling water to each bowl to soak and cook the dried fruits in individual batches. Cover and set aside.

    2. HEAT the oven to 350°F. Line 3 quarter-sheet pans (13″ x 9″) with parchment. Overlap the parchment at opposite ends of the pan to create parchment “handles” to lift out the baked layers. Spray the parchment with cooking spray and set them aside.

    3. CREAM the almond paste, butter, sugar, egg yolks, almond extract, orange zest, lemon zest, salt and spices. Beat with the paddle attachment of a stand mixer until light and fluffy.

    4. ADD the flour in stages, scraping the bowl between each addition. Transfer the batter into three separate medium-sized bowls.

    5. DRAIN the fruits, mash them thoroughly, and add each to one medium bowl of cake batter. Add a couple drops of food coloring to enhance the colors of each batch.

    6. WHIP the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Fold ⅓ of the egg whites into each bowl.

    7. SPREAD each batter onto a different prepared sheet pan and bake for about 11 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through. Cool on a wire rack. Once cooled, lift the layers from the pans using the parchment handles.

    8. SPREAD the jam on the yellow and red layers. Stack the cakes (starting with yellow on the bottom, then red, then violet) on a piece of parchment on the back of a sheet pan. Place another sheet of parchment on top and then another sheet pan. Lean on the top sheet pan and gently press down the cakes.

    At this point you can cover the cake with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or overnight.

    9. SLICE the cake stacks in long straight lines 1½-inches wide. Then cut the cake strips into 1½-inch squares.

    10. SCALD the cream and add it to the chocolate to create a ganache. Cover and let the chocolate melt, then whisk it thoroughly into the cream. Smooth the ganache over the top sides.

    11. DECORATE each piece with blanched almonds and thinly sliced apricots. Refrigerate for 20 minutes and they’re ready to serve.
     
     
    TIPS

    You can save time by icing the stacked cakes before you cut them, then slice them after the ganache hardens. They will be like the rainbow cookies in photo #2, less chocolaty than Duff’s version. But you don’t spend time icing three sides—just the top.

    Similarly, you can skip the double garnish on each piece, or just lay one garnish—an almond or an apricot slice—on top of each. We used both, alternating them so guests could take their pick.
     
     
    BEVERAGE PAIRINGS WITH FRUITCAKE & FRUITCAKE COOKIES

    We love a good cup of black tea with our fruitcake, or a spice tea like Constant Comment (which is also available in a decaffeinated version and a green tea version).

    Port is the wine of choice, but other choices include:

  • Fruity or sweeter beers: cranberry ale, fruit beer and seasonal fruitcake beer, pumpkin ale, and May wine.
  • Sweet oloroso sherry.
  • Madeira, 5 or 10 years old (e.g. Bual).
  • Whiskey aged in sherry casks, like The Macallan.
  •  
     
    A BRIEF HISTORY OF FRUITCAKE

    The earliest known recipe for fruitcake dates to ancient Rome, using pine nuts, pomegranate seeds, and raisins. By the Middle Ages, honey, preserved fruits, and spices had been added and the cake was enjoyed throughout Europe. Recipes varied widely by region.

    In the 16th century, sugar from the Caribbean—and the discovery that sugar could be used to preserve fruits—made fruitcakes more affordable and popular. Everything was delicious for a few centuries.

    But the mass production of prepared foods that followed World War II led to low-priced and not great-tasting fruitcakes. Following tradition, people gave them as Christmas gifts, but few recipients enjoyed eating them. Many of them re-gifted their fruitcakes; thus the joke from comedian Johnny Carson, that there was only one fruitcake in the world and it got passed from person to person.

    Bake yourself a really good fruitcake and see why it deserves its place among delicious Christmas foods.

     

    Three-layer fruitcake cookies
    [1] Forget fruitcake. Make these three-layer cookies instead (photos #1, #6, #7, and #8 © Sun-Maid).

    A plate of Rainbow Cookies, 3 layers covered in chocolate ganache
    [2] These popular Italian rainbow cookies may have been the inspiration for the “Forget Fruitcake” format. Here’s the recipe (photo © Taste Of Home).

    A tube of Odense Almond Paste
    [3] Almond paste provides a bit of marzipan flavor (photo © iGourmet).

    A box of McCormick Almond Extract
    [4] Almond extract pairs with the almond paste (photo © McCormick).

    Zested Lemon
    [5] The recipe uses both lemon and orange zests (photo © Sunkist).

    A box of Sun-Maid Golden Raisins
    [6] Golden raisins are made from dried Green Thompson Seedless grapes. Also called sultanas, the name comes from Turkish Sultana grape (Green Thompson Seedless are a variety of Sultana grape).

    A bag of Sun-Maid Dried Apricots
    [7] Dried apricots go into this recipe, but we also love to dip them in chocolate fondue.

    A bag of Sun-Maid Dried Mixed Berries
    [8] Dried Mixed Berries provide the triple delights of dried blueberries, cherries, and cranberries.

    A measuring cup of Chocolate Chips
    [9] Chocolate melted with heavy cream creates the ganache icing (photo © Bella Baker).

    Pint Carton Of Organic Valley Heavy Cream
    [10] Heavy cream (photo © Organic Valley).

     

     
     

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    Smoked Mussels: An Unusual But Tasty Stocking Stuffer

    An open tin of Patagonia brand smoked mussels on a marble counter
    [1] A tin of smoked mussels is a tasty little stocking stuffer (photos #1 and #2 © Good Eggs).

    A tin of Patagonia brand smoked mussels on a marble counter
    [2] These mussels are sustainably harvested off the coast of Spain.

    A plate of crostini with smoked musssels and a glass of rose wine
    [3] Crostini with smoked mussels and diced tomato, red onion, celery root, and cilantro (photo © Rachel Claire | Pexels).

    A Dish Of Spaghetti With Mussels
    [4] Add some smokey protein to your pasta (photo © Max Nayman | Unsplash).

    A bowl of steamed mussels in garlic butter sauce
    [5] Here’s what steamed mussels look like in the shell (photo © Mackenzie Ltd).

    [ ] .

     

    Here’s an offbeat but welcome stocking stuffer for your foodie friends: a tin of smoked mussels. We also give them as take-home dinner party favors. In addition to the uses below, you can have them with your eggs or on toast the next morning.

    Mussels are a delicious source of protein, omega-3s, iron and vitamin B-12. They’re also high in B and C vitamins and concentrated in minerals like phosphorous, selenium, and zinc, and rich in folate, high in omega 3 fatty acids, and a good source of essential amino acids.

    They’re also around 100 calories for 3 ounces. What’s not to love about these cute crustaceans?

    As an environmental bonus, mussels are filter feeders like clams, oysters, and scallops. They improve both water quality and aquatic ecosystems. They’re a tasty model of restorative ocean farming [source].

    Check out your specialty food store or online market for tins or jars packed in olive oil and/or mussel broth.
     
     
    HOW TO USE SMOKED MUSSELS

    Smoked mussels are versatile and can be enjoyed in appetizers, salads, pasta dishes, and even to garnish other seafood (e.g., add one or two atop a piece of grilled fish).

    The smoky profile adds depth and complexity to a wide range of dishes. Here are some delicious ways to enjoy them:
     
    Appetizers

  • Crostini: Spread goat cheese or cream cheese on toasted baguette slices and top with smoked mussels. Add some color with a small piece of roasted red pepper, a concasse of fresh tomato or a slice of cherry tomato.
  • Smoked Mussel Dip: Blend smoked mussels with cream cheese, lemon juice, and herbs to create a flavorful dip for crudités and crackers.
  •  
    Sandwiches, Soups & Salads

  • Pasta Salad: Toss smoked mussels with cooked pasta, cherry tomatoes, feta cheese, and a light vinaigrette for a quick and flavorful pasta salad.
  • Quinoa Salad: Mix smoked mussels with quinoa, cucumber, cherry tomatoes, and a lemon vinaigrette for a refreshing salad.
  • Seafood Bisque: Enhance a seafood bisque with the smoky flavor of mussels for an added layer off flavor.
  • Seafood Salad: Add smoked mussels to a mixed seafood salad with greens, cherry tomatoes, olives, and a citrus vinaigrette.
  • Smoked Mussel Chowder: Add smoked mussels to a creamy chowder base with potatoes, onions, and celery for a rich and flavorful soup.
  • Smoked Mussel Sandwich: Layer smoked mussels on a baguette or ciabatta with lettuce, tomatoes, and a zesty aïoli (garlic mayonnaise—here’s a recipe) for a gourmet sandwich.
  • Wrap Sandwich: Roll smoked mussels into a wrap with fresh greens, avocado, and your sauce or choice (try Russian or Thousand Island dressing).
  •  
    Mains

  • Pizza and Flatbread: Use smoked mussels as a topping along with garlic, tomatoes, and a sprinkle of Parmesan or mozzarella cheese. Or create a Mediterranean profile with smoked mussels, artichokes, olives, and a garnish of feta cheese over the mozzarella.
  • Seafood Platter: Include smoked mussels on a seafood platter with shrimp, crab, and oysters.
  • Smoked Mussel Pasta: Mix smoked mussels into a creamy Alfredo or white wine sauce and serve over linguine, fettuccine, or spaghetti.
  • Spaghetti Aglio e Olio with Smoked Mussels: Toss smoked mussels with spaghetti, garlic, olive oil, red pepper flakes, and parsley.
  • Smoked Mussel Rice Bowl: Combine smoked mussels with rice, roasted vegetables, and a drizzle of soy or teriyaki sauce for a tasty rice bowl.
  •  
    Experiment with these ideas and get creative by incorporating smoked mussels into your favorite recipes for a unique and delicious twist.

    Our most recent experiment (a good one!): savory baked pastry cup appetizer bites filled with unsweetened custard and a smoked mussel.
     
     
    HOW ARE SMOKED MUSSELS MADE

    Smoked mussels begin their journey by cooking (steaming or boiling) the mussels.

    They are then exposed to smoke. The best brands smoke them over wood chips, but there are other smoking agents.

    This is done a specialized smoker, which infuses the mussels with their distinctive smoky flavor.

    They are then jarred or tinned, often in olive oil (the best brands use EVOO), and sometimes with broth from the cooking process.

    No preservatives or additives are used.

    The final result is ready to eat, and shelf-stable (no refrigeration necessary) until opened.

     

     
     

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    A Lane Cake Recipe For Christmas & The History Of Lane Cake

    Lane cake a Southern specialty, is a rich, boozy cake often served for birthdays, wedding anniversaries, and other special occasions. It is the official state cake of Alabama, home of its inventor, Emma Rylander Lane.

    “I just love this southern-style dessert, and so do dinner guests, says Mabel Parvi of Ridgefield, Washington, who shares her recipe below. “With pecans, cherries and raisins in the filling and topping, this version reminds me of a fruitcake—only so much better!”

    We agree with Mabel: This is fun fusion food. It has the candied and dried fruits of a fruitcake, in the form of a frosted layer cake.

    Many variations occurred over the years. More recipe variations are shown in the photos.

    > Mabel Parvi’s Lane Cake recipe is below (photo #1).

    > The history of cake.

    > The different types of cake: a photo glossary.
     
     
    THE HISTORY OF LANE CAKE

    The original Lane Cake recipe was a four-layer white sponge layered cake filled with a mixture of the egg yolks, butter, sugar, raisins, and Bourbon or brandy. It was iced with a boiled white icing Here’s the original recipe, and it looked something like photo #4.

    The cake was created before the turn of the 20th century by Emma Rylander Lane (1856-1904), a native and long-time resident of Americus, Georgia. But Georgia has some claim: She developed the recipe while living in Clayton, Alabama, in the 1890s.

    The recipe first appeared in her self-published cookbook, “Some Good Things to Eat (1898)” (here’s a reprint).

    Mrs. Lane created a fusion of the spongy White Mountain cake and the whisky-drenched fruitcakes of the time. Here’s more about it.

    Her recipe won first prize at the county fair in Columbus, Georgia, after which Ms. Lane called it the Prize Cake.

    An acquaintance, Mrs. Jamie McDowell Pruett, of Eufala, Alabama, convinced her to rename the cake for herself, and so it became the Lane Cake [source]. It is also called the Southern Lane Cake and the Alabama Lane Cake.

    This boozy cake was a go-to for “drinking your dessert.” The amount of Bourbon or brandy soaking the cake was in the hands of each individual cook.

    In Jimmy Carter’s memoir “Christmas in Plains,” the president writes that his father would “make a couple of Lane cakes for Christmas. Since this cake recipe required a strong dose of bourbon, it was just for the adult relatives, doctors, nurses, and other friends who would be invited to our house for eggnog [source].”

    Lane Cake is also mentioned in the Southern classic novel To Kill a Mockingbird; it stirs a rivalry between two of the neighborhood cake ladies*. It’s a moist white cake filled and frosted with a thick cooked whiskey-laced custard.

    And to port the Lane Cake to our efficiency-focused culture: Pillsbury has a Lane Cake recipe made with a box of cake mix (one layer only, no booze).
     
     
    LANE CAKE FOR CHRISTMAS

    In our repertoire, the holidays are the time to make all the boozy sweets: Guinness Cake, Lady Baltimore Cake, rum balls, rum cake, and so many others—including Lane Cake.

    The recipe below is particularly Christmas-forward because it adds candied cherries for a festive red highlight. If you don’t like candied cherries, substitute dried cherries. They’re not as bright-red, but we like the flavor even better.

    Lane cake is often confused with the Lady Baltimore cake. While they are similar—both frosted, fruit-filled, liquor-laced layer cakes—here are the major differences:

  • Provenance: Recipes for Lady Baltimore Cake began appearing in 1906, almost a decade after Lane Cake.
  • Per food historians, it was created in Charleston, South Carolina by sisters Florrie and Nina Ottolengui, longtime managers of the othe Lady Baltimore Tea Room.
  • They based their cake on a version of the Queen Cake, a muffin-sized cake made with wine and brandy that gained popularity around the early 18th century (photo #8). It contains currants and is flavored with mace and orange or lemon water.
  • The Lady Baltimore cake includes raisins, and brandy, as does the Lane Cake, but it has a buttermilk cake base; and the chopped pecans are in the frosting (photo #7). Here’s the recipe.
     
     
    RECIPE: LANE CAKE

    The Lane Cake in photo #1 is one of many tasty variations of the original recipe. The cake should be made made a day or two in advance to let the Bourbon infuse. Cover and refrigerate, then remove it from the refrigerator 30 minutes before serving.

    We made the cake and filling the day before, but made the whipped cream a few hours before serving. We decided to make stabilized whipped cream, which tastes the same but doesn’t collapse because gelatin is added. Here’s the recipe.
     
    Ingredients

  • 6 large egg whites
  • 3/4 cup butter, softened
  • 1-1/2 cups sugar
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 2-1/4 cups all-purpose flour
  • 2-1/2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 3/4 cup 2% milk
  •  
    For The Filling

  • 6 large egg yolks
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1/2 cup butter, cubed
  • 1/4 cup Bourbon
  • 1 tablespoon grated orange zest
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 3/4 cup raisins
  • 3/4 cup sweetened shredded coconut
  • 3/4 cup chopped pecans
  • 3/4 cup coarsely chopped red candied cherries (substitute dried cherries, no chopping required)
  • 1 cup heavy whipping cream, whipped and sweetened
  •  
    Preparation

    1. LINE the bottoms of 3 greased 9-in. round baking pans with parchment. Grease the parchment and set aside.

    2. PLACE the egg whites in a large bowl and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes.

    3. CREAM the butter and sugar in another large bowl until light and fluffy, 5-7 minutes. Beat in the vanilla.

    4. WHISK the flour, baking powder and salt in another bowl. Add it to the creamed butter mixture alternating with the milk, beating well after each addition.

    5. BEAT the egg whites until stiff peaks form; fold them into the batter. Transfer the batter to the prepared pans.

     

    A 3-layer Lane Cake topped with candied cherries and pecans
    [1] This version of a Lane Cake is a cross between a fruit cake and a frosted layer cake, with whipped cream frosting instead of the original 7-minute-type frosting. The recipe is below (photo © Taste Of Home).

    Lane Cake With Meringue Frosting
    [2] This version of Lane Cake has a meringue frosting infused with peach schnapps, and the batter includes dried peaches as well as coconut flakes and toasted pecans. Here’s the recipe (photo by Hector Sanchez © Southern Living).

    Southern Lane Cake with pecans and coconut
    [3] This three-layer Lane Cake has a coconut-pecan topping. It’s finished in the modern style of a stack cake: no frosting on the sides Here’s the recipe (photo © Epicurious).

    The original Lane Cake, four sponge layers with raisin and pecan filling and white frosting
    [4] An approximation of the original Lane Cake from the Encyclopedia of Alabama. It is the official state cake of Alabama.

    A slice of Lane Cake on a white plate
    [5] This version from pulses the filling ingredients into a paste. Here’s the recipe (photo © America’s Test Kitchen).

    Lane Cake with the filling used for topping, too.
    [6] Each cook can style the cake with a signature look. Here’s the recipe for this version, which uses the filling to top a frosted cake (photo © Tori Avey).

    A Lady Baltimore Cake with a slice cut out
    [7] A Lady Baltimore Cake, similar too, but not exactly, a Lane Cake. Here’s the recipe (photo © Taste Of Home).

    Queen Cakes, muffin-like, studded with raisins
    [8] Queen cakes—individual tea cakes that inspired the Lady Baltimore Cake. Here’s the recipe (photo © Women’s Weekly Food).

     
    6. BAKE at 325°F until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 20-25 minutes. Cool for 10 minutes before removing the layers from the pans to wire racks. Remove the parchment paper and cool completely.

    7. MAKE the filling. Combine the egg yolks and sugar in a large saucepan. Add the butter; cook and stir over medium-low heat until the sugar is dissolved and mixture thickens (do not boil).

    8. REMOVE from the heat. Stir in the Bourbon, orange zest and salt. Fold in the raisins, coconut, pecans and cherries. Cool.

    9. PLACE 1 cake layer on a serving plate; spread with a third of the filling. Repeat with the other layers. Frost the sides of the cake with whipped cream. Refrigerate until serving.

    Note: Add your own touches to a Lane Cake. If you love toasted coconut, for example, use it on top of the frosting.
     
     
    ________________
     
    *In her novel To Kill a Mockingbird, Alabama native Harper Lee’s character, Miss Maudie Atkinson, neighbor to the Finches, is known in the town of Maycomb for her Lane Cakes. She bakes a Lane Cake to welcome Aunt Alexandra when she comes to live with the Finch family. Noting the cake’s alcoholic kick, daughter Scout Finch remarks, “Miss Maudie baked a Lane cake so loaded with shinny it made me tight” (shinny is a slang term for moonshine) [source].

    When Miss Maudie’s house is half-burned down, causing her to take refuge in the home of a rival Lane Cake maker, Stephanie Crawford, she keeps on baking. She specifically bakes a Lane Cake for old Mr. Avery, who was severely injured in an attempt to put out the fire.

    “Soon as I can get my hands clean and when Stephanie Crawford’s not looking, I’ll make him a Lane cake. That Stephanie’s been after my recipe for thirty years, and if she thinks I’ll give it to her just because I’m staying with her she’s got another think coming” [source].

     
     

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    Salted Cod Recipe With Tomatoes, Capers and Olives

    A pot of baccala--salted code.
    [1] Delicious salted cod with tomatoes, capers, olives, and red pepper flakes (photos #1, #2, #5, #8, and #9 © DeLallo).

    A wood box of salted cod fillets (baccala)
    [2] A box of salt cod, ready for soaking.

    A jar of Divina brand capers
    [3] Non-pareil capers are the smallest and most delicate in flavor (photos #3 and #6 © Good Eggs).

    A Spoon Of Crushed Red Pepper Flakes
    [4] Crushed red pepper flakes (photo © Savory Spice Shop).

    A dish of crushed San Marzano tomatoes
    [5] Crushed San Marzano tomatoes.

    Carton of Cherry Tomatoes
    [6] Whole cherry tomatoes will burst in the oven, adding their juices to the sauce..

    Kalamata Olives On A Cutting Board
    [7] Pitted Kalamata olives (photo Igor Dutina | Panther Media).

    Baccala In Tomato Sauce With Linguine Baccala With Linguine[/caption]
    [8] Baccalà In Tomato Sauce With Linguine Here’s the recipe.

    Soda Battered Baccalà With Sour Cream & Caper Sauce
    [9] Soda Battered Baccalà With Sour Cream & Caper Sauce.

     

    If you’re not Italian-American, you may not know the tradition of the Feast Of The Seven Fishes.

    But there’s no time like Christmas Eve to begin the tradition: a dinner consisting of seven seafood dishes. (Some ambitious families go for eight, nine or more dishes).

    > We’re starting you off with a heritage salt cod recipe, below.

    > Also below, instead of Italian fare you can serve an all-American seafood menu.

    > After you’ve gotten the hang of salted cod, here are more recipes.
     
     
    THE HISTORY OF THE FEAST OF THE SEVEN FISHES

    The Feast of the Seven Fishes (in Italian, Festa Dei Sette Pesci) is an Italian-American celebration on Christmas Eve: a feast with dishes of fish and other seafood.

    In Southern Italian tradition, Christmas Eve is a vigil or fasting day that is known as La Vigilia (The Vigil). An all-seafood meal reflects the observance of abstinence from meat until the feast of Christmas Day.

    The celebration commemorates the wait, the Vigilia di Natale, for the midnight birth of the baby Jesus [source].

    The long-standing practice of eating seafood on Christmas Eve dates from the Roman Catholic tradition of abstaining from eating meat on Fridays and specific holy days, including the eve of a feast day (e.g., Christmas).

    It dates to medieval times. Since no meat or animal fat could be used on abstinance days, observant Catholics ate fish, typically fried in oil.

    Among Italian-Americans, the Christmas Eve observation turned into a grand dinner with seven or more traditional Italian fish dishes.

    It’s definitely an American custom: The name “seven fishes” and the presentation of seven dishes as both a concept and a name is unknown in Italy.

    However, the fare comprises traditional dishes from the old country: baccalà (salted cod fish), calamari, and fried fish and seafood (oysters, scallops, shrimp, smelts).

    There is no historical agreement as to the origin of the number seven. It may come from the seven Sacraments of the Catholic Church. We may have to wait for the next Dan Brown novel to uncover the mystery.
     
     
    HOW YOU CAN CELEBRATE OF THE FEAST OF THE SEVEN FISHES

    It you’d like to try creating your own seven fish dishes on Christmas Eve, you don’t have to adhere to Italian specialties or make a full dinner out of it. See our suggestions below.

    You can even do it as a potluck, or as an appetizer plate with, for example, calamari salad, cocktail shrimp, crab cakes, crab dip with crudités, tuna-olive tapenade, seafood paté and smoked salmon or gravlax.

    Have we convinced you yet to make the Feast Of The Seven Fishes a holiday tradition in your home?

    Below is a classic recipe to get you started, featuring baccalà (salted cod), a traditional Italian ingredient [photo #2].

    The salted cod is sautéed with crushed tomatoes, capers, olives, and lemon juice before roasting it in the oven with whole tomatoes until the tomatoes start to burst.
     
     
    WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SALTED COD

    Says Italian food specialist DeLallo, who provided us with the following recipe:

    “Baccalà comes mostly from the coasts of Labrador and Newfoundland, where it’s fished, salted [to preserve it] and exported all over the world.

    [While] dried and salted fish doesn’t sound like something to get too excited about…if you ask an Italian about [it] you’ll see their eyes light up.

    “Salt-dried cod has been used in Mediterranean recipes for thousands of years and it has become a Christmas Eve favorite for many traditional Italian families.

    “Salt-dried cod is delicious when prepared correctly. It’s slightly firm and mild in flavor, and it pairs well with acidic flavors, such as tomatoes, marinated artichokes, and capers.”
     
     
    RECIPE: SALTED COD WITH TOMATOES, CAPERS, & OLIVES

    Preparation includes soaking the cod for three days in advance of cooking, to remove the salt. Here’s how.

    Soaking time is 3 days, prep time is 10-15 minutes, cook time is 50 minutes.
     
    Ingredients

  • 2 pounds center-cut skinless boneless salt cod (baccalà), prepared (directions below)
  • 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 medium onion, diced
  • 1 (4-ounce) jar non-pareil* capers, drained**
  • 4½ teaspoons red pepper flakes
  • 1 (28-ounce) can San Marzano-style crushed tomatoes‡
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 20 cherry tomatoes
  • ½ pound pitted Kalamata olives
  • 1 lemon, halved
  • Bunch fresh basil, chopped
  •  
    Preparation

    1. PREPARE and soak the baccalà at least 3 days prior cooking. Here’s how to do it.

    2. HEAT the oven to 375°F.

    3. HEAT 3 tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat in a cast iron or oven-safe skillet, until hot but not smoking. Add the onion and sauté until golden, 3 to 4 minutes.

    4. ADD the red pepper flakes, capers, San Marzano tomatoes and salt. Bring to a boil and simmer for 20 minutes.

    5. ADD the cod, olives, cherry tomatoes, juice from lemon halves and the lemon. Transfer to the oven and roast until fish becomes brown and tomatoes start to blister, about 20 to 25 minutes.

    6. REMOVE from the oven and serve.
     
     
    ALL-AMERICAN GOURMET SEVEN FISHES MENU

    For a gourmet Feast Of The Seven Fishes, consider this seven-course dinner:

  • Oyster shooters, oysters on the half shell, or Oysters Rockefeller.
  • Salmon or tuna tartare or ceviche.
  • Seafood chowder.
  • Marinated seafood salad (calamari, octopus, shrimp, green and black olives, onion) over greens.
  • Angel hair pasta with lobster in a tomato cream sauce or squid ink pasta with scallops and red caviar.
  • Your favorite salmon dish.
  • Your favorite shrimp recipe or lobster dish.
  •  
    Last year, as a starter with cocktails we served salmon, tuna, and eel sushi rolls from our neighborhood sushi bar.
     
     
    MORE RECIPES WITH SALTED COD (BACCALÀ)

  • Baccalà In Tomato Sauce With Linguine
  • Fried Baccalà
  • Mrs. DeLallo’s Baccalà Salad
  • Oven-Roasted Baccalà With Potatoes
  • Soda Battered Baccalà With Sour Cream & Caper Sauce
  •  
     
    ________________
     
    *Non-pareil is a French term meaning “has no equal.” Non-pareil capers are the smallest caper buds, measuring under 7mm. They are considered the most delicate with a tighter, firmer texture, and the most elegant in appearance.

    **You can repurpose the liquid in a vinaigrette.
     
    †Each caper type is determined by when the caper is picked. Nonpareils are the most popular and only grow to 7 millimeters. Surfines grow between 7 to 9 millimeters, Capucines grow 9 to 11 millimeters, Capotes grow 9 to 11 millimeters, Fine grow 11 to 14 millimeters, and Grusas grow anything over 14 millimeters [source]. While non-pareil capers are often advertised as the highest quality, the flavor profiles of various caper sizes are a matter of personal taste. Smaller buds have a more subdued flavor than those that are later in the blooming stage [source].

    ‡Roma tomatoes, also known as plum tomatoes, are oblong and have few seeds. Kumato tomatoes have a stronger, harder skin than a regular tomato that resists bruising. A hybrid variety, it ripens to a deep greenish brown.

     

     

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    Easy Christmas Risotto Recipe & The Types Of Risotto Rice

    Most of us would not consider risotto to be an “easy” recipe. It requires constant observation and stirring.

    But Dole created this recipe as a multi-cooker risotto. The rice practically makes itself!

    And the bright holiday colors have great eye appeal in what is often a “beige” dish.

    The recipe follows below, but first:

    > The history of risotto.

    > The history of rice.

    > The different types of rice: a photo glossary.

    There are links to more risotto recipes below.

    > There is no Risotto Day, but September is National Rice Month.
     
     
    WHAT TYPES OF RICE ARE USED FOR RISOTTO?

    A bit of history: The first evidence of rice cultivation in Italy dates to 1468 in Florence. In the late 1400s rice cultivation spread to northern Italy, to Lombardy and Piedmont.

    An advantage there was the Po Valley, a flat and fertile plain that is watered by the Po River and its tributaries. Frequent flooding of the Po River enabled the rice to be grown in paddies. The Po Valley is an ideal environment for rice cultivation [source].

    From those beginnings, many types of rice were bred and cultivated.

    On to risotto.

    To create the signature creaminess of risotto, the type of rice used must contain a just-right amount of starch to create its creamy texture and sauce.

    The creaminess is the result of slowly coaxing the starch out of the rice as it is cooked and stirred every 30 seconds or so for 20 to 30 minutes.

    The rices tend to be Japonica cultivars, from the same genus that produces the other “sticky rices,” including mochi, sushi, and sweet rice varieties.

    Italy grows four main varieties of superfino rice (the highest grade of Italian rice) for risotto: Arborio, Baldo, Carnaroli, and Vialone Nano.

    These differ in length and vary slightly in starch content and texture. Usually chefs have a particular preference, and there are regional preferences as well, e.g. for a drier versus a soupier risotto. You can experiment to see which type you like best.

    The following four rice varieties are grown in Northern Italy’s Po Valley, which stretches across several regions including Emilia-Romagna, Lombardy, Piedmont, and Veneto.
     
    Arborio rice is a medium-length, round-grained rice. It is named for the town of Arborio, where it was first cultivated in the 19th century, primarily for use in risotto [source]. The grains have a more tan color with a characteristic white dot at the center of the grain.

    Arborio rice develops a creamy texture around a chewy center and has exceptional ability to absorb flavors.

    Arborio is more widely available and less expensive, but it’s not as starchy as Baldo, Carnaroli, or Vialone Nano and thus absorbs the broth liquid—which provides the creaminess—a little less well.

    Still, its availability and price make it the most popular rice for making risotto. It produces a relatively creamy risotto with a hearty texture.
     
    Baldo rice is the newest, and least well known, risotto rice, introduced in 1977. It’s a hybrid of Aborio and a variety known Stirpe 136.

    Baldo has medium-sized grains that are slightly longer and more slender than those of Arborio rice. The grains are not as round as Vialone Nano and maintain their texture during cooking

    The rice has a rich flavor and typically requires a shorter cooking time compared to some other rice varieties.
     
    Carnaroli rice dates to about 1945, and is a cross between Vialone and Lencino varieties. It is superior to both of these ancestors, due to its higher amylose content (the crystallizable form of starch).

    The variety was named after Professor Emiliano Carnaroli, President of the Ente Nazionale Risi (National Rice Body) at that time.

    Carnaroli is a plumper, larger grain of rice that’s preferred by many chefs for producing a very creamy risotto with a nice bite.

    Highly prized, it is the most widely used rice in overall Italian cuisine [source].
     
    Vialone Nano rice is a short-grain rice introduced in 1937. It’s a cross between Vialone and Nano rice varieties.

    The grains are thick and stubby in comparison to other types of superfino rice, with a wide central core known as the “pearl.” The variety is named “Nano” because of its small size.

    It’s widely considered the archetype of the Italian risotto rice [source].

    It’s the risotto rice of choice in the Veneto region of Northern Italy, particularly around Verona.

    Vialone Nano absorbs liquid well and is commonly used for soupy-style risottos, especially those with added seafood.

    Compared to other three varieties, it’s considered to absorb flavors more effectively while retaining a firm, al dente, texture. It cooks relatively quickly while still releasing enough starch to create a creamy dish [source].
     
     
    RECIPE: ASPARAGUS RISOTTO WITH SPINACH-BROCCOLI PESTO

    Prep time is 20 Minutes, cook time is 10 minutes.
     
    Ingredients For 6 Servings

  • 4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
  • ½ small head broccoli, chopped
  • 4 cups packed spinach
  • ½ cup pine nuts
  • ¼ cup fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon)
  • ¼ cup shredded Parmesan cheese plus additional for garnish
  • ¼ cup olive oil
  • 2 teaspoons lemon zest (from 1 lemon)
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • ½ teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
  • 1 bunch asparagus, trimmed, cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces (about 1 pound)
  • 2 red bell peppers, chopped
  • 2 cups Arborio rice
  • Garnish: shredded Parmesan cheese
     
    Preparation

    1. PURÉE the garlic, broccoli, spinach, pine nuts, lemon juice, parmesan cheese, 3 tablespoons oil, lemon zest, salt, black pepper and 1/3 cup water in a food processor (makes about 1¾ cups).

    2. COOK the asparagus, bell peppers and remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a multi-cooker on sauté setting 5 minutes or until the vegetables are tender, stirring occasionally. Transfer to a plate with a slotted spoon (makes about 4 cups).

    3. ADD the rice to the multi-cooker; cook for 3 minutes or until toasted, stirring occasionally.

    4. STIR in 4 cups of hot water; cover, seal vent and cook for 2 minutes on high pressure. Quick release the pressure and remove the lid; stir in the pesto (makes about 7 cups).

    5. SERVE the risotto topped with the asparagus and peppers. Garnish with cheese before serving, or pass the extra Parmesan cheese in a bowl or ramekin so people can add their own.

    Also pass a pepper mill so they can add fresh pepper to taste.
     
     
    MORE RISOTTO RECIPES

  • Asparagus Risotto
  • Barley “Risotto” Stuffed Cabbage
  • Butternut Squash Risotto
  • Cauliflower Risotto
  • 15 Minute Risotto
  • Pumpkin, Sausage & Sage Risotto
  •  

    A plate of Christmas Risotto with red bell pepper and green asparagus
    [1] A festive risotto with the red and green colors of Christmas (photos # 1, #3, and #4 © Dole).

    A Bag Of Arborio Rice For Risotto
    [2] Arborio, the most popular rice for risotto (photo © Lundberg Family Farms).

    2 Stalks Of Dole Broccoli
    [3] Grab a head of broccoli…

    A Bag Of Dole Spinach
    [4] A bag of spinach….

    Three Red Bell Peppers, ready to slice
    [5] Some red bell peppers… (photo © Girl On The Range).

    Bowl Of Pine Nuts
    [6] And some pine nuts (photo © Good Eggs).

    Garlic Bulbs & Cloves
    [7] Don’t forget the garlic (photo © Wesual Click | Public Domain.

    Grated Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese & Grater
    [8] Parmesan cheese is an ingredient and a garnish (photo © London Deposit | Panther Media).

     

     
     

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