[1] In photos, four cream-based products can look alike. But the flavor, weight and production techniques differ. Vive la différence: they’re all wonderful. This is crème fraîch (photo © Vermont Creamery).

[2] Sour cream is thicker and tart notes (photo © Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board).

Cream is easily whipped into a delicious topping or filling. With a bit more effort at the dairy, it can be turned into enriched creams, including clotted cream, crème fraîche, mascarpone, and sour cream. Each has its own distinct character, and each is a gift to people who love a bit of richness.
 
 
IT STARTS WITH MILK

Cream starts with milk, a suspension of whey proteins, casein proteins, and globules of fat in water.

The largest amount of the suspension is fat (milkfat a.k.a. butterfat), which is also the lightest component.

If the milk is not homogenized, it rises to the top to a rich cream layer. The longer the milk sits at warm temperatures (which speed separation), the richer and thicker the cream becomes.*

Cream can also be thickened by fermenting with Lactobacillus bacteria, which is how three of our four featured, enhanced creams are made.

In the U.S., the raw milk is heated (pasteurized) and the fat (cream) is separated (leaving nonfat milk). It can then be processed into different products:

 
 
The cultured creams all have a delightful, piquant edge. We like them even better than the simple, often-too-sweet whipped cream, to garnish chocolate cakes and other sweet, rich desserts.
 
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*Historically, dairy farmers skimmed the cream from shallow pans of milk, let it sit again, and did this repeatedly to get the richest cream. Modern dairies use massive centrifuges to perform the same task in seconds (and produce creams with a consistent percentage of milk fat).

†Note that depending on the producer, crème fraîche can be thicker than sour cream, or vice versa.

These comparisons help to explain the difference among products created from milk. Note that the percentages are averages; different dairies can manage their recipes to include more or less fat. (Note that milk fat/milkfat is the same as butter fat/butterfat.)

 
 
CLOTTED CREAM or DEVON CREAM

Heavy whipping cream is warmed gently to a near boil, so the fat globules float to the top and form a firm layer. It is then left to cool for a day (photo #4).
This is the famed clotted cream of Devon and Somerset, England: a very rich, thick delight of about 60% milk fat, with flavors both creamy and buttery.

Clotted cream is popularly enjoyed with fruit preserves on scones, on other baked goods, or as a topping for fresh fruit.
 
 
CRÈME FRAÎCHE

Developed in France, crème fraîche (pronounced crehm fresh) is a thinner form of sour cream, with a more delicate texture and tartness, and a higher fat content (photo #1).

Cream is gently heated and then inoculated with bacterial cultures. The bacteria consume the cream’s natural sugars, producing lactic acid in exchange.

This gentle acidity thickens the cream and imparts a mild, refreshing tang (less tang than sour cream because the amounts of the bacterial cultures used are far fewer).

Crème fraîche is used as a topping, in sauces and other recipes. Aside from the celestial taste, the best thing about crème fraîche is that it can be heated and used in sauces without curdling.

And, you can make it at home. Here’s a crème fraîche recipe; a quicker alternative is to blend equal amounts of heavy whipping cream and sour cream.

MASCARPONE

Mascarpone takes a third approach to thickening cream (photo #3).

The result is the richest, sweetest and most luscious; and spoonable, spreadable mascarpone is actually classified as a fresh cheese (a triple-crème).

The cream is brought to a simmer until approximately a third of its original volume has evaporated.

Then, an acid ingredient such as vinegar or cream of tartar is mixed into the warm, extra-rich cream.

The acidity causes the cream to congeal to a thick, almost stiff texture while retaining its mild and creamy flavor.

It is the thickest and richest enriched cream, at 70%-75% milk fat.

Mascarpone is intensely rich and used for desserts (cannoli filling, tiramisu, cheesecake, with fresh fruit) as well as in savory recipes (dips, sauces, spreads).

It is often called “Italian cream cheese,” but the two products are technically different—and different on the palate, too.

SOUR CREAM

Sour cream is made by fermenting heavy cream with certain kinds of lactic acid bacteria; the production of lactic acid by bacterial fermentation is called souring.

The bacterial culture sours and thickens the cream (photo #2).

The taste of sour cream is only mildly sour; tangy would be a better word.

Sour cream is used in recipes, as a base for dips, and as a garnish and topping.

Note that reduced fat and fat-free options are made with numerous additives: propylene glycol monoester, an emulsifier that helps aerate the cream. Corn starch, gelatin, agar gum, locust bean, and xantham gum replace the viscosity lost with the the fat; artificial color keeps the mix a milky white [source].

 
YOGURT

Yogurt is milk—not cream—that is fermented with bacteria.

The milk is heated and mixed with two types of live bacteria: Lactobacillus bulgaricus and Streptococcus thermophilus. Some brands add additional live bacteria, or copyright their own versions of the two main types.

These are good bacteria: probiotic bacteria that keep our guts healthy.

[4] Clotted cream, also called Devon cream. Here’s how to make it yourself, from heavy cream (photo © Cupcake Project).

Greek-style yogurt triple-strains the mixture to remove a great percentage of whey, resulting in a thicker yogurt.

Skyr, also called Icelandic yogurt, strains out all the whey. The result is even thicker, creamier, and higher in protein. Here are the different types of yogurt.

Yogurt can be used as sour cream is used, to cut back on cholesterol (fat) and calories.

However, it can’t be heated like sour cream: It will curdle in the heat.

Some material in this article was adapted from GlobalPost.com.
 
 

Nam used Safest Choice pasteurized eggs in this recipe. Pasteurized eggs are recommended in dishes that use raw eggs without further cooking (Caesar salad, mousse and steak tartare, for example). In this recipe the eggs are fully cooked, so pasteurized eggs are a nice luxury.

Consider this tasty trio of protein, legume and green, leafy vegetable for weekend brunch or lunch, and a celebration of National Egg Month (see all the May food holidays).

RECIPE: POACHED EGGS OVER LENTILS &
ARUGULA

Ingredients For 4 Servings

Preparation

1. MELT the butter with the olive oil in a heavy bottom pot, over medium heat. Add the celery, carrots, leeks and garlic. Sauté until softened but not browned—about 5-7 minutes.

2. ADD the red chili flakes, thyme sprigs, and cook for 1-2 minutes, stirring frequently. Stir in the lentils and then pour in the wine. Continue simmering until the wine has reduced and is nearly evaporated.

3. ADD the vegetable stock and bay leaf and bring the liquids to a boil. Partially cover the pot and reduce to a simmer. Cook the lentils for about 25-30 minutes or until tender. While the lentils cook…

4. BEGIN POACHING the eggs. Fill a separate pot 3/4 full of water and bring to a rolling boil. Pour in the vinegar and slightly lower the heat. Crack one egg into a small bowl. Take a spoon and swirl it around quickly in the pot to make a whirlpool in the water. Slowly pour the egg into the center of the whirlpool. The movement of the whirlpool will help the egg form but you can also use a spoon to help it along.

After about 2 minutes…

5. USE a slotted spoon to remove the egg and set aside in a warm bowl of water. Cook the eggs just under of how you’d normally like your eggs. Repeat with the remaining eggs. Once done, cover the pot and turn the heat down to low to keep the water hot.

When the lentils are tender…

6. REMOVE the thyme sprigs and bay leaf. Drain any excess stock that may remain. Season with kosher salt and black pepper as needed. Toss the lentils with the arugula leaves and use a slotted spoon to plate into 4 dishes. Using the slotted spoon…

7. DIP each poached egg into the pot of hot water to rewarm it. Gently blot them dry with a paper towel and place on top of each lentil mound. Place Parmesan cheese shards over plate and drizzle the tops with a bit of the olive oil. Garnish with additional thyme sprigs and serve immediately.

 
FOOD TRIVIA: THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PARMESAN AND PARMIGIANO REGGIANO

In the European Union, Parmigiano-Reggiano is a D.O.P.-protected term that can only be used by members of the Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano-Reggiano, which approves each and every wheel of cheese as meeting the highest Consorzio standards (substandard cheeses are removed from the process before aging concludes).

However, in 2008 the E.U. also defined the term “Parmesan” to refer to the genuine Consorzio cheeses. Prior to then, Parmesan referred to Parmigiano-Reggiano-style cheeses made outside the D.O.P.-designated regions of Emilia-Romagna and Lombardy. Thus, within the E.U., Parmesan and Parmigiano-Reggiano are the same cheese. (Why ask why?)

In the U.S. and other parts of the world, the word “Parmesan” is not regulated. A cheese labeled as Parmesan in the U.S. is a domestic cheese approximating Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Why is the word capitalized? It’s an editorial choice. Both Parmesan and Parmigiano are adjectival forms of Parma, the city in the Italian region of Emilia-Romagna where the cheese originated. We would apply the same style, for example, to an Iowan cheese or a Chicagoan cheese (as opposed to an iowan cheese or chicagoan cheese).

Here’s more about Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.
  

Among the happiest days of THE NIBBLE’s year are when the samples of Talenti Gelato & Sorbetto’s new flavors arrive. This privately owned business produces a superior artisan ice cream at a better price than the big “superpremium” brands like Häagen-Dazs and Ben & Jerry’s.

Discriminating consumers know it. As proof, since 2007, Talenti’s revenue has exploded from $1 million to $49.3 million in 2012, the last year for which we could obtain figures.

Three new flavors have recently joined the line:

Caramel Apple Pie is more cinnamon apple pie with a subtle hint of caramel in the swirl, which is just fine with us. With plentiful pieces of Red Delicious apples and flaky pie crust, it is like apple pie in pint. Instead of baking a pie for a gathering, bring a few pints of it!

Fudge Brownie is an extra-dark chocolate with a welcome bittersweet edge and chewy chunks of brownie. If there could be an improvement on the original Talenti Double Dark Chocolate gelato, this is it.

Raspberry Vanilla is like a dish of fresh raspberries and cream that has been frozen. The sweet cream gelato with pieces of fresh berries has a tart raspberry and balsamic ripple for a sophisticated twist.

The milk used is rBST free. Vegans and those avoiding lactose can enjoy four delicious sorbets.

Like all Talenti flavors, these new flavors are made using the finest natural ingredients that are carefully sourced from around the world: chocolate from Belgium, caramel from Argentina and mangoes from India, to name a few. Premium fresh fruit and spices are used.

The line, which includes sorbetto and ice pops, is certified kosher (dairy) by OU. The products are available at major retailers nationwide, at a suggested retail price of $4.99-$5.99

Those who judge an ice cream line by its vanilla are encouraged to try the ethereal Tahitian Vanilla Bean. Chocolate lovers can dish up Double Dark Chocolate and Belgian Milk Chocolate (try a combination of both!).

Our personal favorites: Banana Chocolate Swirl and Black Raspberry Chocolate Chip.

Check out all 25 Talenti flavors.

And please, Talenti: We’d love for you to make peach gelato. Maybe for next summer?

Also in stores nationwide are Talenti’s Gelato Pops, in 8 delicious flavors dipped in Belgian chocolate. We’re especially addicted to Banana Swirl and Caribbean Coconut.

Chomping at the bit? Here’s a store locator.

Coda: Talenti’s unique see-through containers can be popped into the dishwasher and reused for food storage. Or, make everyone a piggy bank to collect loose that pesky loose change.

The cheese is most often a hearty Swiss mountain cheese: Gruyère, Comté or Emmentaler and a hint of nutmeg is added to the recipe. Served warm from the oven, gougères are simple yet elegant hors d’oeuvres—a perfect choice to serve with Champagne, other sparkling wine, or any wine or craft beer.

In fact, we received the recipe below from Moet et Chandon, courtesy of Cooking Channel’s Aida Mollenkamp.

There are many variants of the recipe, from plain cheese to mix-ins. Here, Chef Mollenkamp adds pancetta and fresh thyme, and opts for a mix of Italian Parmigiano-Reggiano and Fontina cheeses instead of one of the Swiss cheeses.

Prep time is 15 minutes, total time is 50 minutes. And it’s worth it! You may want to double the recipe in case your crowd clamors for more. (You can freeze any extra dough.)

PANCETTA, THYME & FONTINA GOUGÈRES

Ingredients For 32 Cheese Puffs

Preparation

1. HEAT oven to 375°F and arrange racks in the upper and lower third. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats and set aside. Line a plate with paper towels and set aside.

2. PLACE pancetta in a medium nonstick frying pan and cook until crisp. Remove pancetta to paper towel-lined plate and set aside to drain. Meanwhile…

3. COMBINE 1 cup of the milk or water with the butter and salt in a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low, dump in all the flour, and stir vigorously until flour is incorporated. Cook, stirring constantly, until dough comes together in a ball and feels dry to the touch, about 2 minutes.

4. TRANSFER dough to a food processor fitted with a blade or a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Pulse or beat in five of the eggs, one by one, letting each egg completely incorporate before adding the next. Reserve 3 tablespoons of the Parmigiano cheese then add pancetta, remaining cheese, and thyme; pulse or mix on low until thoroughly incorporated.

5. DROP tablespoon-size portions of dough on the prepared baking sheets, spacing them at least 1/2 inch apart. Whisk remaining egg yolk with the remaining 1 tablespoon milk and brush tops of cheese puffs then evenly sprinkle reserved Parmesan cheese over top.

6. PLACE in oven and bake, rotating halfway through, until puffed and golden brown, about 30 to 35 minutes. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature. (Can be made up to 4 days ahead. Store, covered, at room temperature.)

TIP: Freeze the pancetta for 5 to 10 minutes to facilitate dicing. If you can’t find pancetta, use Canadian bacon or cooked ham instead (don’t crisp it in the pan, though).
 
MORE GOUGÈRES

Here’s a classic gougères recipe with Gruyere and nutmeg.

Goat cheese fans: Substitute a semi-hard chèvre.