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TIP OF THE DAY: Grenache (Garnacha) For Fall & Winter

The third Friday of September—the 18th this year—is International Grenache Day. With its high alcohol content and spicy notes, it’s an excellent wine for autumn and winter food pairings (see below).

Grenache (gruh-NOSH) in French, Garnacha in Spanish, is easy to grow and thus one of the most widely planted red wine grape varieties in the world. Because pure Grenache wines (monovarietals) tend to lack acid, tannin and rich color, the grape is often blended with other varietals. For red Grenache, these are chiefly:

  • Mourvèdre and Syrah in France and Australia.
  • Tempranillo in Spain.
  • However, if you want a pure Grenache, you can find it.
  •  
    There are also white Grenaches and rosé Grenaches. Noteworthy examples of the latter are Tavel from the Côtes du Rhône of France and the rosés of the Navarra region of Spain.

    The high sugar levels of Grenache make it good for fortified wines, as well. It is used in most Australian fortified wines and in the Port-like red vins doux naturels of Roussillon, France such as Banyuls, Maury and Rasteau.

    Today, narrow down your options and try a red Grenache or Garnacha. What should you try it with?

       

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    A glass of Grenache. It’s hard to tell Grenache by its color, since most are blended with other grapes. A Grenache blend with Syrah or Temperanillo, for example, will be much more purple than a 100% Grenache. Photo courtesy Semata.

     
    FOOD PAIRINGS WITH RED GRENACHE

    Red Grenache is a versatile wine, even though—as with any wine—its flavors vary, depending on where the grapes are grown, the soil and microclimate characteristics and diverse winemaking styles among producers.

    But red Grenache is generally spicy* with raspberry or strawberry notes. As the wine ages, leather and tar flavors can emerge.

    Pair red Grenache with:

  • Fall and winter dishes: braises, casseroles, roasts, roast turkey and stews (beef, fish, lamb, pork, poultry, veal).
  • Hearty regional fare: classic French bistro dishes, Indian curries, Moroccan tagines, paprika/pimenton-spiced dishes (great with goulash), Portuguese and Spanish country dishes.
  • Vegetarian dishes: bean- and lentil-based dishes, casseroles, cooked tomatoes and eggplant.
  • Smoky foods: barbecue and other smoked meats and related dishes like pork and beans. For smoky pairings, try lighter, affordable Garnachas from Spain.
  • Comfort foods: burgers, mac and cheese, pizza.
  • Strong aged cheeses: blue, cheddar and washed rind cheeses, for example.
  •  
    *In wine, “spicy” refers to flavors such as anise, cardamom, cinnamon, clove, ginger, mint, nutmeg and pepper. Some grapes—and the wines made from them—are naturally spicy: Grenache, Malbec, Petite Sirah, Syrah and Zinfandel. New oak barrels also impart spicy notes.

     

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    One of our favorite grenache blends, Chateau de Beaucastel from the Châteauneuf-du-Pape region of the Rhone. Châteauneuf-du-Pape reds tend to be earthy and gamy flavors, with hints of tar and leather: big, lush wines that are terrific with roast beef or lamb. Photo courtesy Skinner Inc.
      FOOD PAIRINGS WITH WHITE GRENACHE

  • Artichokes
  • Charcuterie
  • Cheese dishes: fondue, gratin, soufflé
  • Paella
  • Seafood dishes
  • Tataki, tartare and sushi (especially stronger flavors, like
    salmon and tuna)
  •  
    FOOD PAIRINGS WITH FORTIFIED GRENACHE

  • Chocolate and chocolate desserts
  • Figs and blue cheese (one of our favorite cheese courses)
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    THE HISTORY OF GRENACHE

    Garnacha most likely originated in the Aragon region of northern Spain. In the 12th century it spread to Catalonia and other regions under the Crown of Aragon.

    When the Roussillon region was annexed by France, Garnacha became Grenache, and the grape was planted in Languedoc and the Southern Rhone region. The latter is the home of perhaps the world’s greatest grenache blend, the A.O.C.† Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

     
    †Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC), or controlled designation of origin, is the French certification granted to certain wines, cheeses, and other agricultural products made in specific geographical areas, from local ingredients and according to time-honored artisanal practices. The terroir of the region and the artisan techniques assure the authenticity of the product.

      

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    Types Of Emmental, The Real “Swiss Cheese”

    The U.S. is not known for its food sophistication, knowledge, or accuracy. Errors surround the most popular foods. Today’s focus is one of them, “Swiss cheese.”

    There is no Swiss product called “Swiss cheese,” just as there is no “French cheese,” “Italian cheese,” and so forth. It’s a generic reference, like “French wine” or “Italian wine.” (Yes, there is Swiss wine, but you have to go there to try it. Nearly all is drunk domestically, with less than 2% exported, mainly to Germany.)

    Swiss cheese is the generic name used in the United States for several related varieties of cheese, originally made in Switzerland. Emmentaler is the cheese Americans think of as the generic Swiss cheese. While Americans believe that Swiss cheese has holes, properly known as eyes, not all kinds of Swiss cheese do.
     
     
    THE TYPES OF SWISS CHEESE

    There are 450 known Swiss cheeses, classified into five categories: extra-hard, hard, semi-hard, semi-soft and soft. Cow’s milk is used in 99% of the cheeses produced. Examples include:

  • Extra-Hard Swiss Cheese: Sbrinz
  • Hard Swiss Cheese: Emmentaler, Gruyère/Greyerzer, Sapsago and Vacherin Fribourgeois
  • Semi-Hard Swiss Cheese: Appenzeller, Bündner Bergkäse, Mutschli, Raclette cheese, Tête de Moine, Tilsiter
  • Semi-Soft Swiss Cheese: Vacherin Mont d’Or
  • Soft Swiss Cheese: Gala
  •  
    We suggest assembling examples of the five different styles—or at least, examples of the hard cheeses—for an educational “This Is Swiss Cheese!” tasting party.

    The Swiss cheese variety with the big eyes—the holes—is Emmental, also spelled Emmentaler, Emmenthal or Emmenthaler, and pronounced without the “h” (i.e., em-en-TAL, em-en-TAL-er).

    You may want to pick some up for tomorrow, National Cheeseburger Day. But today, we’ll focus on the glories of Emmental.
     
     
    EMMENTAL HISTORY

    Flavorful and imposing in size, the Swiss consider Emmental to be the king of the Swiss cheeses. It takes its name from the valley of the river Emme, in the canton of Bern*, also the home of Bern, the capital city of Switzerland.

    Emmental cheese production traces its origins to the 13th century. Emmentaler AOC is produced by some 200 dairies, from the fresh, raw milk of cows fed on valley grass. The milk accounts for the superior flavor of Emmenthal versus American reproductions:

    The milk from American factory cheeses (as opposed to artisan cheeses) typically comes from feedlot cows, who don’t graze and are fed commercial feed. Their milk does not have the flavor of milk from cows who graze on grass. Swiss milk is also rBgh/rBst-free, and genetically modified ingredients and any additives are forbidden.

    Around 12 liters (12.6 quarts) of milk are needed to produce one kilo (2.2 pounds) of cheese. The round wheels of cheese have a diameter of 80 to 100 centimeters (31-39 inches—that’s more than three feet wide!), and weigh in at 75 to 120 kg (163-265 pounds). Yes, they’re heavy lifting.
     
     
    THE FLAVOR OF EMMENTAL

    The taste and texture differentiate quality Emmental from rubbery American imitations.

  • Emmental, aged for a minimum of 4 months (and up to 14 months or longer for the most prized cheeses), has a smooth, pale-yellow rind.
  • Like many Swiss mountain cheeses†, Emmental has a cooked, pressed paste (interior), which gives it a smooth, slightly springy texture—a flexible, pliant paste with a lovely deep yellow color from the use of raw milk.
  • In a well-aged Emmental, the aroma is sweet with tones of fresh-cut hay. The flavor is fruity with an intense finish.
  •  
     
    WHAT ABOUT THOSE BIG EYES?

    While other Swiss mountain cheeses have eyes, Emmental has the largest. The holes range from cherry size to walnut size.

    The eyes develop from the bacteria used in the production of Emmentaler cheese: Streptococcus thermophilis, Lactobacillus and Propionibacter shermani.

    In a late stage of cheese production, P. shermani consumes the lactic acid excreted by the other two bacteria, and releases carbon dioxide gas. This forms the bubbles that appear to be “holes” when the cheese is sliced. The cheese industry calls these holes or tunnels “eyes.” Swiss cheese without eyes is known as “blind.”

     


    [1] Don’t call it “Swiss cheese.” It’s name is Emmental (photo © Emmental Tourismus).

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    [2] While different cheeses develop eyes (holes), Emmental is the style that develops large holes that make Americans think “Swiss cheese” (photo © iGourmet) .


    [3] Emmental is made in huge wheels that require extra-long knives to slice (photo © Imgur).

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    [4] Emmental wheels weigh 163 to 265 pounds (photo © iGourmet).

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    [5] Smoked salmon quiche with Emmental cheese (photo © Mackenzie Ltd.

     
     
    TYPES OF EMMENTAL & HOW TO USE THEM

    Emmentaler AOC is sold in different stages of maturity, for different culinary purposes and palates.

  • Classic. The nutty, mild “classic” is matured for at least 4 months. It is used for sandwiches, gratins and other recipes such as fondue, omelets and quiches. It’s an excellent melting cheese—try an Emmental grilled cheese sandwich.
  • Reserve. The distinctly spicy “réserve” is matured for at least 8 months. It develops deeper flavors, for those who want a more nuanced table cheese.
  • Cave-Matured. The very aromatic “cave-matured” Emmental is matured for a minimum of one year. It is the finest table cheese, delivering all the sensory components of a great Emmental.
  •  
    Be sure you are buying Swiss Emmental. Although it is an AOC cheese, originally, the denomination “Emmental” was not protected. Thus, there are French Emmentals, Bavarian Emmentals, even Finnish Emmentals.
     
     
    HOW DID EMMENTAL BECOME “SWISS CHEESE” IN AMERICA?

    The original starter culture for Emmental was brought from Switzerland to Wisconsin in the 1850s, by immigrant Swiss cheesemakers, who recreated the cheese from their homeland. The American version of Emmentaler became known as “Swiss” cheese by the locals—perhaps because “Swiss” was easier to say than “Emmental.”

     

     
    Alas.
     
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    *A canton is analogous to an American state. There are 26 cantons in Switzerland.

    †Also called Alpine cheeses, the term “mountain cheeses” refers to large, firm wheels made in the Swiss mountains (the Alps). These wheels are well-aged and full-flavored, often sprinkled with holes (some quite small). Appenzeller, Emmental, Gruyère, Hoch Ybrig, Raclette (four different cheeses), Sbrinz, Stanser Fladä, Tête de Moine and Vacherin Fribourgeois are examples. Mountain cheeses are not restricted to Switzerland, but to any mountains. Here’s more about mountain cheese.

      

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    Ice Pop Cake: A Cake or Ice Cream Cake Plus Ice Pops!

    According to Country Crock, more Americans have their birthdays in September, and September 16th has the most birthdays.

    Whether or not you’re celebrating today, here’s a new take on ice cream cake from Country Crock: Add ice pops—sherbet or ice cream pops—around the perimeter of the cake.

    Called Rockin’ Rainbow Cake, the recipe begins with your favorite frosted layer cake. Bake it or buy it.

  • After you frost the cake, garnish the top with multicolored sprinkles.
  • Just before serving, press single-stick ice pops vertically around outside of cake (photo #1). Cut so that each wedge has an ice pop.
  • Here’s the complete recipe.
     
    Ice Cream Cake Variation: Use the same concept. It makes even more sense!
     
     
    TIPS

  • We suggest that you unwrap all the ice pops first and place them on a wax paper-covered cookie sheet in the freezer until you’re ready to serve the cake.
  • Then, press them into the sides, bring the cake to the table and slice and serve real fast.
  • For an ice cream cake: Let the frozen cake soften on the counter for 5 or 10 minutes. Then press the pops into the perimeter of the cake and return it to the freezer.
     
     
    > Also check out the history of the Popsicle®.

    > More delicious ice pop recipes.

    > The different types of frozen desserts and treats.

  •  

    Birthday Cake With Ice Pops
    [1] A different approach to “ice cream cake” (photo courtesy Country Crock).

    3 Single-Stick Ice Pops
    [2] Chose ice pop colors that suit the occasion (Photo © Dmitriy K.P. | Panther Media).

     

      

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    RECIPE: Apple Sangria

    apple-sangria-230
    Ready for a glass? You can use red and
    green apple slices, in addition to the
    strawberries, for extra color. Photo courtesy
    U.S. Apple Association.
      It’s so hot here today (87°F) that we can’t get into fall recipes. But this Apple Sangria recipe is a compromise, turning the most popular fall flavor into a refreshing drink.

    There are actually two recipes below: the first, sangria with Calvados and sparkling wine; the second, a mocktail.

    The first recipe makes eight 8-ounce servings or ten 6-ounce servings. If you don’t have Calvados (apple brandy), you can substitute plain brandy or Cognac.
     
     
    RECIPE: APPLE SANGRIA

    Ingredients

  • 1/4 cup Calvados
  • 2 tablespoons packed brown sugar
  • 5 cups apple juice or cider, chilled
  • 1 medium crisp* apple, cored and cut into thin wedges
  • 2/3 cup sliced strawberries
  • 1/2 cup halved white or red seedless grapes
  • 1 750-ml bottle extra-dry chilled Cava (Spanish white sparkling wine) or Prosecco (Italian white sparkling wine)
  • Ice
  • Preparation

    1. MIX the Calvados and brown sugar in a large pitcher until the sugar is dissolved. Stir in the apple juice, apple, strawberries and grapes. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours or more.

    2. ADD the sparkling wine just before serving and gently stir (you don’t want to break the bubbles). Pour into ice-filled glasses.
     
    *Crisp green apple varieties include Crispin/Mutsu, Ginger Gold, Granny Smith, Newtown Pippin. Crisp red apple varieties include Braeburn, Cameo, Gala, Fuji, Honeycrisp, Jonathan.

     

    APPLE SANGRIA MOCKTAIL

    This recipes makes eight 8-ounce, or ten 6-ounce, servings of non-alcoholic sangria.

    Ingredients

  • 3-1/2 cups apple juice
  • 1 medium crisp apple (such as Crispin or Honeycrisp) cored and cut into thin wedges
  • 2/3 cup sliced strawberries
  • 1/2 cup halved white or red seedless grapes
  • 1-1/2 cups club soda, chilled
  • 1 bottle (25-1/2-ounces) non-alcoholic sparkling apple cider, chilled
  • Ice
  •  
    Preparation

    1. COMBINE the apple juice, apple, strawberries and grapes. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours or more.

    2. ADD the club soda and sparkling cider just before serving and gently stir. Pour into ice-filled glasses.

      crispin-mutsu-nyapplecountry-230
    The Crispin apple, also known as Mutsu, has a green skin. Honeycrisp apples have a red skin. Photo courtesy New York Apple Association.
     
     
    THE HISTORY OF SANGRIA

    Around 200 B.C.E., the conquering Romans arrived in Spain and planted vineyards. They soon discovered that red grape varietals produced the best wine in the local soils. While some was enjoyed locally, the majority of the wines were shipped to Rome.

    The locals created fruit punches from the wines and called these drinks sangria after the Spanish word for bloodletting.

    While sangria was drunk in Spain for more than 1,000 years, it didn’t arrive in the U.S. until 1964—at the Spanish Pavilion at the World’s Fair in New York. It was quickly adopted by Americans.

    Since January 2014, the use of the word “sangria” on bottle labels is restricted by the European Union. Only sangria made in Spain and Portugal can be sold under that name.

    Sangaree, a fruit and wine punch from the West Indies, is the same drink. The name is an archaic English term for sangria.

    December 20th is National Sangria Day. Here’s more about sangria.
      

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    Create A DIY Guacamole Party Bar For National Guacamole Day


    [1] Party time! Check out this article (photo © Sally Roeckell | Heinen’s).


    [1] Provide a plain bowl of chopped avocado and let guests pile on the toppings (photo © Nadine Primeau | Unsplash).

    Avocados, Whole & Cut In Half
    [2] Hass is the best avocado for creamy guacamole (photo © Hass Avocado Board).


    [3] You don’t have to mix or mash. Diced avocado can be served in bowls, with toppings piled on top (photo © California Avocado Commission).


    [4] At Frontera Grill in Chicago: crab, guacamole, bacon, toasted pumpkin seeds, queso fresco, tomatoes (photo © Frontera Grill).

     

    National Guacamole Day is September 16th, and we wondered: If there are salad bars and frozen yogurt bars, cereal bars, baked potato bars and chili bars*, why not a guacamole bar? Who doesn’t love the opportunity to customize their foods?

    Individual bowls and an array of ingredients enable each person to start with a base of smashed avocado, and pile on the fixings. They can then be mixed in or eaten as is—a mountain of flavors and textures.

    Whether for a general party or drinks, we like to include a crunchy salad base, to make a more substantial dish. We prefer shredded cabbage, a.k.a. coleslaw mix. You end up with “guacamole coleslaw” at the bottom of the dish.

    National Guacamole Day is September 16th and November 14th is National Spicy Guacamole Day.

    > The history of guacamole is below.

    > Ways to use guacamole beyond chips.

    > The year’s 25+ Mexican food holidays.
     
     
    INGREDIENTS FOR A GUACAMOLE PARTY BAR

    To encourage creativity, mix some non-traditional items (bacon? mint? pineapple?) with traditional ones.

  • Avocado: mashed, smashed or diced†
  • Cheese: crumbled cotija, goat cheese, queso blanco, queso fresco or queso oaxaca; shredded cheddar or jack
  • Diced veggies: bell pepper, carrot, cucumber, green and/or red onion, jicama, radish, tomatillo, tomato/sundried tomato
  • Seasonings: cayenne, chili powder, cumin, garlic powder and/or minced garlic, hot sauce, lemon and/or lime wedges, paprika, salt/seasoned salt, Worcestershire sauce
  • Heat: chile flakes, hot sauce, sliced jalapeño, minced chipotle‡
  • Herbs: chives, cilantro, mint, parsley
  • Salad base: arugula, chicory, escarole, iceberg, radicchio, romaine, shredded cabbage, watercress
  • Toppings: bacon, corn, crushed pineapple, diced mango, olives, salsa, seeds (pumpkin, sunflower), sour cream or plain yogurt, toasted nuts
  •  
    Plus:

  • Chips and dippers: celery sticks, crostini (toasted or grilled baguette slices), endive leaves, pita chips, plantain chips, tortilla chips, flatbread
  • Drinks: beer, Margaritas, white wine (Sauvignon Blanc or other crisp, medium-body white wine), white sangria
  •  
    Set the dishes on a table or buffet in this order: bowls, salad, avocado, veggies, heat, seasonings and toppings; include serving utensils with each option.

    At the end of the table, place the forks and spoons for blending and napkins, and dinner plates for the individual bowls and chips. Place large bowls of chips or other dippers on the tables.
     
    ___________________________

    *More food bar ideas: Breakfast & Brunch Bar, Lunch & Dinner Bar and Dessert Bar.

    †Hass avocados are preferred. While other varieties are larger, the Hass variety is creamier, a desired characteristic for guacamole.

    ‡To accommodate those who just like a little heat, have two bowls of jalapeño: one minced and served as is, one with the heat-carrying seeds removed before mincing.
    ___________________________
     
     
    THE HISTORY OF GUACAMOLE

    Mesoamericans cultivated the avocado in what we now call Central America for millions of years. The conquering Aztecs** called them ahuacatl; the “tl” is pronounced “tay” in Nahuatl, the Aztec language (so, ah-hwa-cah-tay). Guacamole was compounded in a molcajete, a mortar and pestle carved from volcanic stone.

    When the Spanish conquistadors arrived in 1519 under Hernán Cortés, they heard ah-hwah-cah-tay as “aguacate,” the spelling and pronunciation they adopted.

    The name guacamole comes from Mexican Spanish via the Nahuatl “ahuacamOlli,” a compound of ahuacatl [avocado] + mOlli [sauce]. The chocolate-based mole sauce comes from that same word, mOlli.

    Ahuacatl means “testicle.” Aztecs saw the avocado as resembling testicles and ate them as a sex stimulant. According to Linda Stradley on the website WhatsCookingInAmerica.com, for centuries after Europeans came into contact with the avocado, it carried its reputation for inducing sexual prowess. It wasn’t purchased or consumed by anyone concerned with his or her reputation.

    American avocado growers had to sponsor a public relations campaign to dispel the myth before avocados could become popular. After then, their dark green, pebbly flesh also earned avocados the name, “alligator pear.”
     
    _____________

    **The Aztecs, who probably originated as a nomadic tribe in northern Mexico, arrived in Mesoamerica around the beginning of the 13th century.
     
     
    FUN FACTS

  • Avocados been cultivated for over 10,000 years.
  • Avocados have more potassium that a banana, plus many other health benefits (here are the more health benefits of avocado).
  • Leaving the pit in to keep it from browning doesn’t really work.
  • The largest-ever serving of guacamole weighed 2,669.5 kg (5,885.24 lbs), created by the Municipality of Tancítaro Michoacan in Tancítaro, Mexico, on April 4th 2013. (But how many tortilla chips were needed?)
  • During festivities for the last Super Bowl, 104.2 million pounds of avocados were consumed nationally, mostly as guacamole.
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