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TIP OF THE DAY: Cooking With Craft Beer

Cooking with beer is as old as civilization itself. The first-known written record, from the Sumerians of ancient Mesopotamia, is a 3900-year-old beer recipe and poem honoring Ninkasi, the patron goddess of brewing.

Brewing is much older than the written record: Evidence of beer production in Mesopotamia dates back about 5,000 years.

Fast forward to the here and now: In American kitchens, some people regularly cook with beer. Others, even though they like beer, are more likely to cook with wine.

Executive Chef Cenobio Canalizo of Michael Jordan’s The Steak House N.Y.C. likes to cook with both. He recently added beer-braised onions to his fall Bar Burger, and sent us his recipe plus general tips for cooking with beer:

  • Think regional. The Germans, naturally, cook their brats and other foods with their local beer. If you are making sauerkraut, cook it with some good German beer. Likewise, when making fish and chips, make your beer batter with a nice British ale.
  • Never cook with a beer you would not like to drink. This is the same with wine. Your final product can only be as good as your ingredients.
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    A cheeseburger with caramelized onions is the fall Bar Burger recipes at Michael Jordan’s The Steak House. Photo courtesy PotatoRolls.com.

  • The delicate flavors of beer will dissipate over a long cooking process. If you are cooking a stew or braised beef, for example, add a splash or two to your dish before serving, to ensure you get that flavor. (We add a few tablespoons after we take the dish off the heat.)
  • Experiment with your favorite recipes. In virtually any recipe that calls for wine or stock of any type, you could replace them with beer.
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    The American Craft Beer Cookbook pairs recipes with all the craft beer styles. Photo courtesy Storey Publishing.
      A FIRST STEP IN COOKING WITH BEER

    Beer braised onions are an easy way to start cooking with beer. You can add them to first courses, entrées and sides. As a start, serve them with meat or poultry, baked or mashed potatoes, beans, burgers, eggs, grains, grilled fish and sandwiches (especially great with grilled cheese, roast beef, turkey or vegetable sandwiches).

    Chef Canalizo’s fall Bar Burger includes onions braised in Ommegang Nut Brown Ale (from New York State) and melted Cheddar cheese on a Martin’s potato roll, and served with homemade potato chips. Here’s his recipe for the onions:

    RECIPE: BEER BRAISED ONIONS

    Ingredients For 4 Burgers

    For The Burger

  • 2 pounds ground beef
  • 4 buns (hamburger roll substitutes)
  •  
    For The Braised Onions

  • 2 white Spanish onions, sliced
  • 2 tablespoons melted butter
  • 1 cup brown ale* (substitute amber ale/red ale)
  • 2 sprigs fresh thyme
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  •  
    Preparation

    1. MELT the butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onions and toss to coat with butter. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally until the onions are a golden color. Add the beer and herbs and continue to cook for 5 more minutes until caramelized.

    2. FORM the meat into four eight-ounce patties. Season with kosher salt and pepper and cook to the desired temperature. While the meat is cooking, toast the buns.

    3. TOP each patty with cheddar cheese and beer braised onions, place on the bun and serve.

     
    BAKE YOUR OWN HAMBURGER ROLLS

    Skip those puffy, white-bread standards and try delicious gourmet hamburger rolls. Here’s a recipe.

     
    *Brown ale is sweeter, darker and less bitter than the typical lager beer. If you can’t find an American brown ale, imported Newcastle Nut Brown Ale is typically available in stores with a good beer selection.
      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Fall Beer Styles For Your Oktoberfest

    We held an Oktoberfest dinner this past weekend. That’s because even though the name says October, the fest begins in late September and lasts for 16 days, through early October. This year it’s September 19th through October 4th in Munich, where an annual festival has been held since 1810. (It was originally held to celebrate the marriage of the crown prince of Bavaria, the future King Ludwig I.)
    In the beer category, seasonal beer styles are called…seasonals. For fall, full-bodied beers replace the lighter brews of summer. Three craft beer fall seasonals that immediately come to mind:

  • Harvest Ale, an American craft brew category made with German-style malts and hops, or else with fall spices.
  • Pumpkin Beer or Ale, sometimes brewed with real pumpkin and pumpkin pie spices, sometimes with only the spices (allspice, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg). Samuel Adams’ Fat Jack has more than 28 pounds of pumpkin per barrel.
  • Oktoberfest Beer, or Märzen: Traditionally the first beer of the brewing season, it is an amber lager, smooth and malty and about 6% or higher ABV*.
  •  
    In addition to these styles, other popular fall beers include:

       

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    Fat Jack brewed with more than 28 pounds of pumpkin per barrel. Photo courtesy Samuel Adams.

  • Brown Ale, made with dark or brown malts that produce caramel and chocolate flavors (more).
  • Dunkelweizen, a dark version of a wheat beer (“dunkel” is the German word for dark)
  • English Pale Ale or India Pale Ale, assertively hopped and stronger (higher in alcohol—more)
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    __________
    *To be labeled Oktoberfest beer in Germany, a beer must conform to the Reinheitsgebot (the German beer purity law), which dictates a minimum of 6% alcohol (by comparison, America’s Budweiser has 5%). The beer must also be brewed within the city limits of Munich.

     

    marzen-230
    Märzen, the classic all beer of Germany. Photo courtesy Gordon Biersch.

     

    THROW AN OKTOBERFEST PARTY

    According to us, you can hold an Oktoberfest celebration any time in October. We served an assortment of flavored chicken sausages from Bilinski German potato salad, sweet and sour red cabbage and a cheese course with hard sausage and apples. For dessert: apple sorbet with hard apple cider from Angry Orchard plus some local artisan brews.

    Here are two articles to guide your party planning:

  • Oktoberfest Party 1.
  • Oktoberfest Party 2.
  •  
     
    See our Beer Glossary for the different types of beer and the history of beer.

     

      

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    RECIPE: Artichoke Dip With Sun-Dried Tomatoes

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    Artichoke dip with sun-dried tomatoes. Photo courtesy Mooney Farms.
     

    After yesterday’s recipe for spinach and artichoke dip appeared, our friend Rachel emailed to say: “I don’t like spinach. Do you have a recipe for artichoke dip without it?”

    This one’s for you, Rachel: an award-winning recipe courtesy of Mooney Farms. The recipe uses Mooney’s Bella Sun Luci brand of sun-dried tomatoes (a brand we favor).
     
     
    RECIPE: SUN-DRIED TOMATO & ARTICHOKE DIP

    Ingredients

  • 8 ounces cream cheese
  • 3 large garlic cloves, pressed or diced
  • 1 cup canned artichoke hearts, diced
  • 6 Bella Sun Luci Sun Dried Tomato Halves in Oil, diced
  • 1/3 cup fresh shredded Parmesan cheese
  • 1½ tablespoons fresh basil leaves, diced
  • ½ teaspoon dried Italian seasoning*
  • Optional: ¼-1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • For serving: bagel chips, pita chips or crackers
  •  
    Preparation

    1. PREHEAT the oven to 375°F. In a glass 9-inch pie pan or baking plate, mix the cream cheese, garlic and artichoke hearts. Use a large fork to blend together.

    2. ADD the sun-dried tomatoes, Parmesan cheese and basil. Stir together until well blended.

    3. FLATTEN the dip with a fork or spatula, so the dip is an even layer in the pan. Sprinkle top with the Italian seasoning, and cayenne pepper to taste.

    4. BAKE for 16-18 minutes; the dip should be golden brown on top. Remove from the oven and let cool for 5 minutes.

     
    __________________
    *You can make your own Italian seasoning by combining equal parts basil, marjoram, oregano, rosemary and thyme. Store in an airtight jar.

     
      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Sweet Or Savory Popcorn Garnish

    Before it was a popular snack, popcorn was a whole grain food. In Colonial times, it was eaten in a bowl with milk or cream, like modern puffed rice and other puffed cereal grains.

    In the 18th century, after the corn harvest, farmers would toss corn kernels, some fat and a little molasses into a cast iron pot. Voilà: the first kettle corn. (Today, special popcorn strains create big, fluffy kernels.)

    By the 1840s, corn popping had become a popular recreational activity in the U.S. By the 1870s, popcorn was sold in grocery stores and at concession stands at circuses, carnivals and fairs. The first commercial popcorn machine was invented in 1885; by the early 1920s, popcorn machines turned out hot buttered corn at most movie theaters.

    Here’s the history of popcorn.

    Considered a humble food accessible to all, it now used by fine chefs as a garnish for both sweet and savory food.
     
     
    THE HUMBLE SNACK BECOMES FANCY FARE

    Recently we featured an elegant savory corn custard, made from fresh corn and garnished with popcorn.

       
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    Add some whole grain popcorn to your mac and cheese,perhaps flavored garlic or jalapeño. Photo: DK.
     
    But a recipe doesn’t have to be made from corn—or be savory—to dazzle with a popcorn garnish. You can use popcorn as a fun food garnish.

    While a popcorn garnish is not yet ubiquitous, it has long been a standard on cheese and beer soup. Here’s a recipe from Emeril Lagasse, who makes spicy popcorn for the garnish. But if you don’t have the time, plain popcorn works just fine.

    Any thick soup—bean, lentil, vegetable—is ready to wear a popcorn garnish; as is a bowl of chili.
     
     
    USE PLAIN OR FLAVORED POPCORN

    A second level of fun in using a popcorn garnish: You can flavor the popcorn to complement the dish. Just a sample of popcorn flavors you can pair:

  • Savory flavors: bacon-chive, garlic, herb, jalapeño, mustard, parmesan-rosemary, sesame, truffle
  • Sweet flavors: caramel/salted caramel, chocolate, cinnamon-sugar, maple, peanut butter, peppermint, pineapple-coconut
  •  
    If there’s a flavor you want, just toss it with popcorn. Here are 50 ways to season plain popcorn.

    You can also coat the popcorn in chocolate, or use purchased popcorn: chocolate-covered, chocolate-peppermint or maple for the holidays, and so forth.

     

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    Use caramel corn or a popcorn/pecan praline mix to top a cheesecake or (shown above) a carrot cake. Here’s the recipe. Photo courtesy MyKitchenStories.com.au.
     

    WAYS TO USE A POPCORN GARNISH

    Beverages: Hot chocolate, on a cocktail pick, on milkshakes

  • Breakfast: Grits or other hot cereal with sweet or savory corn (cheese popcorn on cheese grits, anyone?), pancakes and waffles with caramel corn, yogurt and cottage cheese with sweet or savory popcorn
  • Lunch/Dinner: Chicken breasts, chili, fish fillets, mac and cheese, soups, salads, grains, stews
  • Desserts: Crème brûlée, cupcakes, ice cream (here’s actual popcorn ice cream), layer cake, pudding (especially popcorn pudding)
  •  
    If you’re not yet convinced, here’s a simple way to try out popcorn garnishes:

    The next time you roll down the supermarket snack aisle, check out the popcorn selection. Buy a savory (plain salted popcorn) and a sweet variety (caramel corn or kettle corn) and start using them as garnishes.
     
    _______________________
    *Leave off the butter and sugar, and season with spices or herbs, and you’ve got a fiber-filled, healthful snack.

     

      

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    Uses For Artichoke Hearts Beyond Spinach & Artichoke Dip

    March 16th is National Artichoke Hearts Day, and January is Artichoke and Asparagus Month. Yes, there’s a holiday for just about everything: Here are the food holidays.

    If you shop at a club store, you may run across large cans of artichoke hearts or artichoke pieces, nicely priced. There are also occasional sales on regular formats (13.85 ounce cans). Grab them!

    Should you grab marinated or plain? It’s a toss-up.

    Canned artichokes, packed in water, are more bland out of the can, but fine for dips, soups and other recipes where you don’t want the vinaigrette that comes with marinated artichoke hearts.

    Marinated artichoke hearts are marinated in white vinegar and cheaper oil: soybean, sunflower or lower-quality olive oil.

    If your palate notices the difference, you’re better off marinating your own, adding salt and spices to taste. They’re best in antipastos, salads and on sandwiches.

    If you score a jumbo size, what should you do with all that artichoke?

    The good news is that artichokes are low in calories: a 14 ounce can has 165 calories. So use them wherever and whenever.

    Below:

    > 14 ways to use artichoke hearts.

    > A recipe for spinach and artichoke dip and variations.

    > The history of spinach and artichoke dip.

    > The most popular dips and spreads.

    > More dip recipes.

    Elsewhere on The Nibble:

    > The history of artichokes.

    > The year’s 60+ vegetable holidays.
     
     
    20 WAYS TO USE ARTICHOKE HEARTS

    Here’s a starter list.

  • Antipasto: Create a platter with marinated artichokes, cheese, pimento (roasted red peppers), salami, olives, etc.
  • Baked Potato: Check out this recipe.
  • Crostini: Combine plain or marinated chopped artichoke hearts with seasoned ricotta (lemon zest, pepper, salt) and spread on grilled or toasted bread. Or, first spread the seasoned ricotta on the bread and top with a whole or sliced artichoke.
  • Dips: Artichoke dips are very popular. There are three recipes below—with crab, gorgonzola and sundried tomatoes.
  • Eggs Sardou: A twist on Eggs Benedict with spinach and artichokes*.
  • Fish topping: Do a quick sauté of plain artichoke hearts in olive oil with halved cherry/grape tomatoes, minced garlic and olives. Or, make a more intense sauce with brown butter, capers and sage.
  • Fried: Serve fried artichoke hearts as a side, or as a first course with a yogurt sauce.
  • Grains: Add plain artichoke hearts to cooked whole grains (barley, couscous, brown rice, quinoa, etc.), either hot or a grain salad. Mix with other ingredients of choice, from raisins to nuts
  • Gratin: Place plain artichoke hearts in a baking dish, with or without other cooked vegetables; top with shredded Gruyère and breadcrumbs, and bake at 400°F until the cheese is melted and the artichokes are warmed through.
  • Lamb: Add to lamb shanks or stew.
  • Omelet: Toss in plain artichokes alone, with other vegetables and/or with cheese (feta, Gruyère, mozzarella, etc.): an easy, fancy side dish.
  • Pasta and risotto: Mix plain artichoke hearts with chopped or whole artichoke hearts, olives and olive oil or sauce of choice (recipe). Add to a lasagna or other baked pasta dish.
  • Pizza: top with plain artichoke hearts, optional anchovies, capers, olives, red onion, etc.
  • Potatoes: Roast potatoes, adding the artichokes toward the end. Toss with lemon zest and dill or parsley.
  • Roasts: Roast the hearts with chicken or lamb (here’s a recipe with lamb).
  • Salads: Add plain or marinated artichoke hearts to a green salad.
  • Sandwiches: Top the main filling with marinated artichoke hearts.
  • Spreads: Add to hummus, or try this artichoke tapenade recipe.
  •  
    Crudites & Dip
    [10] How impressive is this dip served in a hollowed-out red cabbage? Here’s the recipe (photo © Inspired by Charm).
     
     
    RECIPE: SPINACH & ARTICHOKE DIP OR SPREAD

    Ingredients

  • 1 box frozen chopped spinach, defrosted, drained and squeezed
  • 1/2 cup sour cream
  • 2 tablespoons mayonnaise
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • 1 lemon, juiced (and zested if desired)
  • 2 tablespoons chopped green onion and/or parsley
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Optional: a few dashes of nutmeg or Worcestershire Sauce
  • Optional: diced sundried tomato
  • Optional for hot dip: grated Emmental, Fontina, Gruyère, Jarlsberg or similar cheese
  • 1 cup artichoke hearts, drained and quartered (we use canned; you may be able to find hearts that are already quartered)
  •  
    Plus

  • Baguette slices, crackers, pita chips/wedges, toast points, tortilla chips, etc.
  •  
    Preparation

    1. DRAIN the spinach in a strainer and press with the back of a large spoon to press out the remaining water. Further blot with paper towels if needed.

    2. COMBINE the spinach in a food processor with the sour cream, mayonnaise, garlic, lemon juice and optional zest and nutmeg; blend. Taste and season with salt and pepper to taste.

    3. ADD the artichokes and pulse a few times. For a cold dip, refrigerate spread in a tightly-capped container for several hours or overnight, to enable the flavors to blend.

    4. FOR A HOT DIP: Preheat oven to 375°F. Blend in the grated cheese and fresh-ground black pepper. Place in an oven-proof dish, top with more grated cheese and bake at until golden brown, about 15–20 minutes.
     
    Artichoke Dip Variations

    There are as many different types of artichoke dip as there are people who think of what to add or change. Popular examples:

  • Bacon-artichoke dip: Here’s a recipe.
  • Basic hot baked artichoke dip: chopped artichokes with cream cheese, sour cream, mayonnaise, and Parmesan, sometimes with garlic or dill, baked until bubbly.
  • Beyond spinach: use a different leafy green. Here’s a recipe with collard greens.
  • Chile and artichoke dip: chopped green chiles add a mild peppery bite; can be baked or chilled. Here’s a recipe.
  • Cold artichoke dip: a spreadable dip, often blending chopped artichokes with cream cheese or sour cream, Parmesan, and herbs, where the artichokes stand out more.
  • Crab and artichoke dip: the cheese can vary, it can have spinach, it can be baked or room temperature. Here’s a recipe.
  • Marinated artichoke dip: made with marinated artichoke hearts, it gets a tang from the oil, vinegar, and herb marinade. Often still baked with cream cheese and mayonnaise and/or sour cream.
  • Mediterranean artichoke dip: more herb/lemon/garlic-forward; sometimes yogurt-based rather than cream cheese or sour cream. Spinach, popular in Greek cuisine, can be added.
  •  
    While many recipes include cream cheese and Parmesan, we like grated Emmental or Gruyère cheese atop a hot dip.
     
     
    THE HISTORY OF SPINACH & ARTICHOKE DIP

    The 1950s were the decade that launched mid‑century “party dips” to feed the postwar TV/snacking culture and more casual get-togethers.

    Artichoke dip, in particular, got a boost when artichoke hearts—canned, jarred, or frozen—became widely available. No one had to wait for artichoke season, cook an artichoke and remove the heart.

    While home dips took off mid‑century, spinach–artichoke dip’s modern identity—hot, gooey, cheese-forward, and served with baguette slices, crackers, or potato chips—appears to have been strongly reinforced by restaurant and chain menus. People went home and created copycat recipes. (Here’s the copycat recipe for Applebee’s version).

     

    Spinach Artichoke Dip
    [1] Spinach Artichoke Dip. The recipe is below (Abacus Photo).

    Hot Spinach Artichoke Dip
    [2] Here’s a recipe for a hot version of Spinach-Artichoke Dip (photos #2, #6, #7. #8 © Taste Of Home).

    Artichoke Baked Potato
    [3] Forget the dip and make an artichoke baked potato. Here’s the recipe (photo © Bonefish Grill).

    Jar & Bowl Of Artichoke Hearts
    [4] If you can find artichoke hearts already halved or quartered, it saves time (Gemini Photo).


    [5] How about an artichoke galette: for brunch, lunch or a first course at dinner. Here’s the recipe (photo © DeLallo).

    Buffalo Chicken Dip
    [6] Beyond artichoke dip: Buffalo Chicken Dip is one of America’s favorites. Here’s the recipe.

    A Bowl Of Dill Pickle Dip
    [7] This dill pickle dip was is so popular, when we serve it guests often bring spoons to eat the dip from the bowl. Here’s the recipe.

    Applebee's Spinach Artichoke Dip
    [8] A copycat recipe of Applebee’s popular spinach and artichoke dip. Here’s the recipe.

    Fresh Artichokes
    [9] If you steam fresh artichokes, here’s a tip: Don’t discard the stem. It tastes just like the artichoke heart (photo © Melissa’s Produce).

     
    Our Mom recalls that in the 1950s or 1960s, a recipe appeared on the containers of mayonnaise or sour cream, and possibly on packages of Knorr or Lipton dry soup mixes, both of which featured spinach dip with sour cream, mayonnaise and chopped water chestnuts. Such recipes were typically developed by home economists employed by food producers, to encourage popular new ways to use their products.

    The recipe above is what Mom’s used, transferred from the package to an index card and kept in a metal index card box with her other recipes.

    Today, bagel, pita, and tortilla chips; crostini and other toasts; and crudités have joined the dip-and-spread lineup, along with artichoke dip served in a bread bowl (use a round loaf).

    The dip can be served hot or room temperature.

    Sunset Magazine lauded the dip as a “gooey, melty, mayonnaisey 1960s classic…you can even use as a sauce for grilled fish or chicken.” Here’s their recipe.

    Spinach and artichoke dip is one of the most popular dips in the U.S., so it’s surprising that we can’t find information on its origin. If you know it, please let us know.
     
    7-Layer Mexican Dip
    [11] One of America’s most popular party dips is Seven Layer Dip, a Tex-Mex recipe that has inspired similar dips in other cuisines, like Greek Seven Layer Dip (Abacus Photo).
     
     
     
    THE MOST POPULAR SAVORY DIPS OR SPREADS

    As we were researching this, we came across “Our 10 Most Popular Party Dips Of All Time,” published last October by Southern Living magazine. While their dips skew “southern” and our group of Northerners has never heard of most of them, we’ll append our list following theirs—which contains no artichoke or spinach:

  • Seven-Layer Dip (Tex-Mex layered dip)
  • Hot Crawfish Dip
  • Beau Monde Dip (classic creamy seasoning-based dip)
  • Neiman Marcus Dip (cheese, bacon, almonds)
  • Boat Dip (zesty ranch-style)
  • Tennessee Onion Dip
  • Texas Caviar / Cowboy Caviar
  • Old Bay Corn Dip
  • Pepper Jelly Dip (cream cheese + pepper jelly)
  • Pimiento Cheese
  •  
    Our list, in alphabetical order:

  • Buffalo Chicken Dip (hot)
  • Dill Pickle Dip (cold)
  • Greek Layered Dip (cold)
  • Guacamole
  • Hummus
  • Lipton Onion Soup Dip
  • Pico de Gallo (cold—can be plain or mixed with sour cream or yogurt)
  • Seven-Layer Dip (Tex-Mex, cold)
  • Smoked Salmon & Cream Cheese Dip
  • Queso (hot cheese dip)
  •  
    Bonus:

  • Clam Dip (cold)
  •  
    We do like the idea of Southern Living’s Pepper Jelly Dip. We’ll make a batch for our next gathering.

     
     
    MORE DIP RECIPES

  • Artichoke Dip With Sundried Tomatoes
  • Creamy Artichoke Dip With Gorgonzola & Fontina
  • Hot Crab & Artichoke Dip
  •  
    A Tray With 5 Different Dips
    [12] Here’s a party idea: dips galore (Gemini Photo).
    _____________

    *Eggs Sardou is a classic New Orleans brunch dish of poached eggs over a bed of creamed spinach and artichoke bottoms, topped with hollandaise sauce. Substitute artichoke hearts instead! The dish was named after French playwright Victorien Sardou, who had visited Antoine’s Restaurant in 1908. The owner, Antoine Alciatore, created the dish in his honor.
     

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