[1] Which is your turkey: Frozen? Heirloom? Heritage? Brined (photo courtesy Reynolds Kitchens | Facebook)? [2] A fresh free-range brined turkey (photo courtesy Williams-Sonoma). [3] What the Pilgrims ate: Wild turkeys are streamlined birds that look like marathon runners compared to turkeys bread to have more meat (photo by Larry Price | National Wild Turkey Federation).

If you just grab the nearest Butterball from the freezer case, you have a plan. It’s a fine plan: We actually chose the Butterball in a blind tasting of heirloom, heritage and organic turkeys.

But with more and more people interested in the fresh turkey experience, there are other options to consider.

Whole Foods sent us this turkey advisory from master butcher Theo Weening, Whole Foods Market’s global meat buyer. He suggests that you ask these questions when searching for your perfect bird.

1. How Fresh Is Fresh?

The fresher the turkey, the faster it cooks. If you’re paying for a fresh turkey, the question to ask is: Exactly how fresh is this “fresh” turkey?

Fresh turkeys are processed and stored just above the freezing point to keep them juicy and tender…but for how long? Many conventional grocers advertise “fresh” turkeys that are actually harvested nine months or more before Thanksgiving!

Whole Foods and other quality vendors sell turkeys are processed just before the holiday season, to give you the freshest and best-tasting turkey possible.

2. Antibiotic-Free & Organic Turkeys

The question here is: Where and how was this turkey raised?

The best birds are raised with the highest standards, and a great butcher will steer you to a turkey that meets the highest quality breeding stock and practices: no antibiotics, no animal by-products in the feed, no added growth hormones, animal welfare standards, and audits by third-parties like the Global Animal Partnership.

While you can find all these qualities in non-organic birds, organic-certified* turkeys continue to grow in popularity each year, and WFM butchers agree that they are some of the most flavorful birds around. They’re raised on organic pastures with outdoor access and fed non-GMO, organic feed. They are available from 10 to 20 pounds, sometimes a bit larger.

3. Heritage and Heirloom Birds

Most Thanksgiving turkeys are bred to have huge breasts with lots of white meat. In fact, large commercial producers have bred the breast so large that the top-heavy turkeys can no longer fly†. More and more people we know are choosing to make Thanksgiving more “authentic” with an old-style bird.

Heritage turkeys are bred for flavor. Raised slowly and traditionally, they are rich and succulent birds with a more robust turkey flavor.

Unlike supermarket birds, they are not bred to have a huge double breast that delivers a preponderance of white meat. Rather, these breeds are the closest you’ll get to what the Pilgrims ate, which makes them a new experience for most people.

Heirloom turkeys are breeds that date back to the early 1920s-1930s, heirloom turkeys strike a balance between the wild turkey of the heritage breeds and the milder flavor of Butterball and other modern breeds adjusted to the preferences of many Americans. Heirlooms have offer more white meat than heritage turkeys. They can be up to 28 pounds.

4. Brined Birds

Fans of brining will tell you that the technique produces a more tender and flavorful turkey. The technique requires soaking the bird in a saltwater solution for 4 to 24 hours before roasting. You can buy them pre-brined.

Note: Kosher turkeys have already been salted, so brining will create an overly salty bird.

If you want to try it but not for the first time on the most important turkey day of the year, mark a date on your calendar; New Year’s Day, perhaps? A roast turkey is great football food.
 
 
MORE TURKEY TIPS

1. Order Ahead.

Some of in-demand turkeys can sell out before Thanksgiving. Now’s the time to call or visit the butcher to reserve exactly the type and size you want.

If you don’t have time to cook your turkey, don’t have space in the oven, want to minimize stress, etc., let someone else do the work for you. You can order a cooked turkey prepared for reheating.

You’ll know the turkey has been professionally cooked—no mistakes—and can focus your time on the more memorable sides.

 
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*USDA organic certification requires time and expense devoted to paperwork and steps required by the auditors that don’t improve the flavor of the turkeys. There are family farmers who produce all-natural, top-quality poultry but elect not to invest their resources in organic certification.

†These big-breasted turkeys are also too top-heavy to mate. The females must be artificially inseminated.
 
  

Twenty-five years ago, people who needed an alternative to dairy milk turned to soy milk. Then rice milk arrived.

Today there’s quite a selection of non-dairy milks: almond, cashew, coconut, flax, hemp, oat, rice and soy.

Since 1999, according to market research firm Euromonitor, plant-based alternatives milks have grown in annual sales by an average of 10.9%. They are now a $1 billion-plus category in domestic retail sales.

The trend is based on personal factors: allergies, kosher and vegan diets, lactose intolerance and sustainable lifestyles (the manure and flatulence of dairy animals produce huge amounts of methane, a major greenhouse gas. Here’s more information).

As with dairy milks*, each plant-based milk has a different flavor and nutritional profile.

Although we drink a large amount of cow’s milk, we like plant-based milks for different reasons: chocolate and green tea almond or soy milk for a refreshing drink, cashew milk as a delicious newcomer, coconut milk for cooking.

We especially like coconut in creamy soups. It gives a slight Thai twist; add hot chile slices and lemongrass for the full Thai experience.

Some of our favorite thai dishes include coconut rice, coconut curried chicken, coconut pumpkin soup, and our beloved tom ka gai, coconut chicken soup. All get their coconut flavor from unsweetened coconut milk.

But for today, here’s a fusion soup: chowder with coconut milk. It has another popular Thai ingredient too: hot chile slices.
 
 
RECIPE: SPICY SEA BASS CHOWDER WITH COCONUT MILK

Sea bass is poached in coconut milk for this extra rich and velvety hearty chowder. DiscoverCaliforniaWines.com, which gave us the recipe, suggests that it be paired with California chardonnay or viognier.

Ingredients For 4 Servings

 
Preparation

1. HEAT the coconut oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking

2. ADD the onions, garlic, and jalapeño; cook, stirring for 1 minute.

3. ADD the potatoes; cook and stir for 1 minute.

4. STIR in the red bell pepper, coconut milk, water and salt. Bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium low and cook for 5 minutes

5. ADD the zucchini and bass. Bring to a simmer and cook for 7 minutes.

6. DIVIDE the chowder among 4 bowls. Squeeze the juice of one lime wedge over each serving.
 
 
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*The list of animal milks drunk worldwide includes camel, cow, donkey, goat, horse, llama, reindeer, sheep, water buffalo and yak.
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[2] Coconut milk is available in cartons and cans (photo © So Delicious).

[3] Try coconut milk in your next banana smoothie. This recipe has pineapple as well (photo © Makes And Takes).

[4] Many desserts can be made with coconut milk, from ice cream to this coconut milk flan. Here’s the recipe from Care 2 (photo © Care 2).

[6] Chowder is one of the chunkiest soup, packed with goodies. Some, like Manhattan clam chowder, do not contain dairy. Here’s the recipe for this corn and zucchini chowder from Little Broken (photo © Little Broken).

[7] Bisque is a creamy seafood soup, puréed into smoothness (photo © Mackenzie Ltd).

THE DIFFERENCES: BROTH, CHOWDER, SOUP & MORE

 
 
THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF SOUP
 
 
THE HISTORY OF SOUP

We love fresh sage, but seem to use it mostly in the fall. We use it in stuffing, flash-fried as a garnish, and with cocktails.

But of course, you can enjoy it year-round. It’s a standard herb blend with parsley, rosemary and thyme, a key component of poultry and sausage seasonings. Our mom put fresh sage under the skin of a chicken prior to roasting.
 
WHAT IS SAGE?

Salvia officinalis, common sage, is a membr of the Lamiaceae family of flowering plants, also called the mint family.

Members are frequently aromatic in all parts* and include many widely used culinary herbs: basil, hyssop, lavender, marjoram, mint, oregano, perilla, rosemary, sage, savory and thyme. Some are shrubs, some are trees; in rare instances, some members are vines.
 
USES FOR SAGE

 
Search for sage recipes and you’ll find favorites like butternut squash soup, creamed onions with sage, pork chops and loin, roast chicken, roasted vegetables, and saltimbocca (a rolled main of steak, prosciutto and provolone with sage).
 
COCKTAILS & HORS D’OEUVRE

On this lovely fall weekend, relax with a sage-garnished cocktail and complementary hors d’oeuvre.

The Side Ride cocktail, created by blogger Carey Nershi of Reclaiming Provincial, combines Cognac, Grand Marnier or other orange liqueur, sweet and sour mix (ideally homemade) and Sprite (or 7-Up) lemon-lime soda, both to taste.

It’s similar to a Side Car, but substitutes gin for the Cognac. Carey took this sophisticated approach with a recipe she created for Vermont Creamery, served with hors d’oeuvre made with Vermont Creamery’s Bijou, an award-winning aged goat cheese in the style of the French crottin.

Carey uses barrel-aged gin, a recently-revived practice that ages gin, like tequila—in bourbon barrels that generate more richness and spice.

Wood aging also adds color, so barrel-aged gins are the color of whiskey.

You can use regular gin, or use this as an occasion to try barrel aged gin.

And, since this is the season for sage, the cocktail has a fresh sage leaf garnish.

[1] Fresh sage (photo courtesy Good Eggs). [2] Fried sage leaves. Here’s the recipe from Saveur. [3] Butternut soup with a garnish of creme fraiche and a sage leaf. Here’s the recipe from Bon Appetit.[4] Sage as a cocktail garnish in everything from Martinis to this Cranbery Sage Holiday Cocktail (here’s the recipe from Creative Culinary).

[1] The Side Ride, a Side Car with gin instead of cognac (photo courtesy Reclaiming Provincial). [2] Beefeater Barrel Aged Gin (photo courtesy Pernod Ricard). Aged gin is a great gift for a gin lover. [3] Bijou, a Loire-style goat cheese crottin (photo courtesy Vermont Creamery). [4] Caramelized apples (photo courtesy All Clad). [5] Sarabeth’s Chunky Apple Jam (photo courtesy SBK Preserves).

Ingredients Per Drink

 
Preparation

1. COMBINE the gin, Grand Marnier, lemon juice and bitters in a shaker with ice. Stir 8-12 seconds and strain into chilled coupe glass.

2. RUB the rub sage leaf lightly on the rim of coupe and float the leaf in the drink along with lemon or orange peel.
 
RECIPE #2: GOAT CHEESE HORS D’OEUVRE

Carey created this hors d’oeuvre to go with the Side Ride cocktail. Slices of Bijou aged goat cheese (from Vermont Creamery) are topped with smoked salmon and a dollop of crème fraiche for a festive bite.

We had a jar of Sarabeth’s Chunky Apple Jam, and found that we preferred apple jam/preserves to the caramelized apples she specifies. It’s also a lot easier to open a jar, rather than than peeling, slice and caramelize the apples.

If you have another jam or chutney, that can work, too.

And if you want to use caramelized apples, Carey’s recipe is below.
 
Ingredients

 
Preparation

1. SLICE the Bijou into rounds and place on top of crackers. Top the cheese with the caramelized apples or preserves, and a piece of smoked salmon that’s size-appropriate for the cracker.

2. TOP with a dollop of crème fraîche and garnish with a small sprig of fresh dill or a piece of sage.

RECIPE#3: CARAMELIZED APPLES

Caramelizing is the process of converting sugar into caramel. This type of caramel is not thick like caramel sauce or caramel candies. Rather, the sugar and butter combine to create a light, caramel finish to the apples.

You can use caramelized apples with everything from pancakes to pork loin. Carey uses a dab to add a sweetness counterpoint to the salty smoked salmon in the recipe above.

Ingredients

 
Preparation

1. PEEL the apples and cut them into thin slices, as if for apple pie. First cut them into quarters, then slice each quarter into 4 pieces.

2. MELT the butter over medium-high heat. Add the brown sugar, stir to combine, and add the apples. Toss the apples a few times until they are softened and caramelized.
 
WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE SAGE RECIPES?

Let us know how you use them: for breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks and desserts.

There are numerous ways to make that American favorite, mashed potatoes, even better.

A topping of butter-sauteed lobster might be the most exciting preparation for a special occasion. It’s a perennial favorite at Ocean Prime, a fine steak and seafood restaurant with 12 locations from coast to coast.

We obtained the recipe from Chef Brian Hinshaw of Ocean Prime (thanks)! and adjusted it as noted, starting with much more lobster topping. With our family of foodies, you can’t start a war over who didn’t get enough lobster!

We also used Yukon Gold potatoes, which are renowned for their creamy, buttery flesh. Whatever potato you choose, plan on 1/2 pound of raw potatoes per adult.

You’ll also need a stand or hand-held electric mixer, with a wire whip attachment. If you don’t have a whip attachment, see if you can buy a set to fit your mixer; they’re very useful attachments. Otherwise, use the regular beaters and then whip the potatoes to smoothness with a whisk.

Or better yet, since Christmas is coming, ask Santa for a stand mixer with all the attachments.
 
 
RECIPE: LOBSTER MASHED POTATOES

This recipe preparation actually makes whipped or pureéd potatoes. The difference: Mashed potatoes can be made with any texture, from lumpy to pureé. Whipping the potatoes adds air volume, and whipping them into smoothness is a pureé.

Ingredients For A Crowd

 
For The Lobster Topping

For 12 ounces of mashed potatoes, you’ll need:

 
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*Peppercorns are the fruit of a vine, Piper nigrum. White pepper is a conventional peppercorn with the black husk removed. While much of the piperine—the compound that gives pungency to the peppercorn—is in the husk, French chefs of yore chose to remove it to avoid black specks in pure white dishes like white sauces and puréed potatoes. Frankly, we like the specks and the extra flavor from the husk and use black peppercorns universally. Here are the different types of pepper, including pink peppercorns, green peppercorns and dozens of others, none of which is Piper nigrum.
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Preparation

[2] We purchased cooked lobster meat (photo © Celtic Crab Products).

[3] Frozen-cooked lobster meat is less expensive (photo © GCastd).

[4] We love fresh herbs, so added extra chopped chives and some parsley (photo © A Way To Garden).

2. PEEL the potatoes; then cut them in half and slice them into 1/2 inch pieces (if using Idaho russets, you can just halve the potatoes). Place in pot and cover with cold water and a pinch of salt.

3. BRING the pot to a boil, then immediately turn it down to simmer. Never boil potatoes; they will become waterlogged. Cook until fork tender.

4. DRAIN the potatoes in a colander, then put them back in the hot pot for 3 minutes to steam (dry out). This allows the cream and butter to be absorbed into the flesh. While the potatoes are steaming…

5. HEAT the butter and cream in a small pan until the butter has melted. Add the potatoes to the mixing bowl and whip for 30 seconds; then add 3/4 of the butter mixture and continue to whip—slowly at first, then add the salt and pepper and increase the speed to whip more air (volume) into the potatoes. Use the remaining butter mixture only if needed. Taste and adjust seasonings as needed.

6. SERVE the mashed potatoes in a dish, topped with lobster meat and extra. Garnish with the chives and more paprika as desired.
 
 
MORE SPECIAL MASHED POTATO RECIPES

 
Plus some food fun, mashed potatoes with a cup of coffee: Mashed Potato Donuts.
 
 
THE DIFFERENT TYPE OF POTATOES

How many different types of potatoes are there? Thousands, worldwide; but check out the dozens of varieties you can find in the U.S.
 
 

[1] ‘Nduja is traditionally used as a bread spread (photo © Real Food Toronto).

[2] For a fancier presentation, turn it into bruschetta (photo © Great British Chefs).

[3] It melts into pasta sauce or on a pizza; or you can sprinkle it as a garnish (a cloud of ricotta tempers the heat; photo © Bestia | LA).

[4] Artisan ‘nduja looks like this (photo © ‘Nduja Artisans).

[5] You can find ‘nduja sold in jars (photo © Just So Italian.

‘Nduja (pronounced in-doo-ya), is a spicy—some say fiery—pork spread from the Calabria region of Italy. Think of it as spreadable hot soppressata or pepperoni with the texture of pâté-like texture.

It is typically made with pork shoulder, belly, and jowl, as well as tripe, roasted chiles, and spices. It is loosely based on the French andouille sausage, developed in the 13th century by the Angevins, from the area of Anjou in western France.

It is typically made with parts of the pig such as the shoulder, belly, and jowl, as well as roasted hot peppers and a mixture of spices. Nduja has a characteristic fiery taste. It is a Calabrian variation of salami, loosely based on the French andouille introduced in the 13th century by the Angevins.

Finally, North American producers of Italian-style salume like La Quercia began to make it. ‘Nduja Artisans in Chicago, which sells online, is the latest American producer we know of.

Over the last couple of years, creative chefs discovered it and found ways to use it. While ‘nduja still has limited distribution nationwide, you can find it in Italian specialty stores including Eataly, in some Whole Foods Markets, and of course, online.

You can use ‘nduja in any meal of the day. We hope it turns into a foodie trend sooner rather than later.

> September 7th is National Salami Day.

> January 16th is International Hot and Spicy Food Day.
 
 
‘NDUJA HISTORY

Most historians believe that ‘nduja was created as a poor man’s version of andouille sausage, which arrived in the area at the time Napoleon conquered Naples in 1806.

The folks in the town of Spilinga, in western Calabria (the toe of the boot of southern Italy), made a version with pork fat, ground lung, kidneys, scraps from the head, other trimmings, and some skin, and spiced it with fiery local chilies.

The ground meat was stuffed into a casing (pig intestine) and then smoked, yielding a very robust-flavored salume. Some ’nduja is aged, for even more flavor.

What About The Name?

It looks and sounds unusual (when we first saw it in print, we thought it was an African food).

It’s actually derived from the French word, andouille (on-DWEE), which means sausage.
 
 
WAYS TO SERVE ‘NDUJA

‘Nduja has traditionally been served with slices of bread or hearty cheeses. It can spice up just about anything. Because of its high-fat content, it melts into sauces and pizzas.

Consider it:

 
Check out these recipes from Great British Chefs: ‘nduja with clams and squid ink, with grilled salmon, Eggs In Purgatory, even ‘nduja fritters!

Wrapped in plastic, ‘nduja lasts for months in the fridge. In our home, it need only last for a week.
 
 
THE ‘NDUJA FESTIVAL

Outside of Calabria, ‘nduja is perhaps the best-known food. Calabrians are so proud of it that they’ve been holding an annual ‘Nduja Festival since 1975. It takes place in Spilinga, on August 8th.

Attendees can taste ‘nduja in numerous ways, surrounded by folk music and traditional entertainments around Monte Poro (Spilinga).

If you decide that ‘nduja is your new favorite food, you may want to book a trip!
 
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*There are different regional styles of soppressata. Here are the different varieties.

†Salume has been Americanized to salami, the term for spiced ground meat, usually pork, stuffed into a casing and cured.