THE NIBBLE BLOG: Products, Recipes & Trends In Specialty Foods


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TIP OF THE DAY: Membrillo, A Great Cheese Condiment

Membrillo & Charcuterie
[1] Serve membrillo (top left) with a charcuterie and/or cheese board. You can serve it whole or pre-slice it (photo courtesy Volpi Foods).

Homemade Membrillo
[2] Homemade membrillo from food photographer and stylist Melina Hammer.

Membrillo & Quince
[3] Membrillo and the quince it is made from (photo courtesy Directo al Paladar).

 

Membrillo (mem-BREE-yo) is a semisoft cheese condiment that is quince paste: brownish-red, firm, sticky. It is made in loaves, and sliced to serve on cheese platters.

It is more accurately called dulce de membrillo in Spain, Italy, Israel and Latin America, to differentiate the the fruit itself (membrillo) from the fruit paste (dulce de membrillo). The name changes to marmelada in Portugal and Brazil; pâte de coing in France; and quince paste in English-speaking countries.

A relative of the apple and the pear, quince is high in pectin, and the resulting paste has the consistency of a thick jelly. It has a sweet and tart taste and looks like a dense block of gelatin.

You can buy it or make it (membrillo recipe). Homemade membrillo is a very nice gift for foodie friends.

If you buy it, purchase it at a cheese store or specialty store. You can buy it packaged in Latino food markets, but it’s (understandably) more commercial, less elegant.
 
 
MEMBRILLO USES

Traditionally membrillo has been served with Spanish cheeses like Mahón, Manchego and Roncal. But just as fruit can be served with any cheese, so can membrillo.

It also pairs well with nuts and other salty and savory foods. And, it’s a substitute for guava paste.

In addition to serving quince paste, the fruit is cooked (braised, poached), used to make pies, spreads (jelly, jam, marmalade), desserts (cake, ice cream, pie) and sauces (including a version similar to applesauce).

Here are 13 additional uses for membrillo:

  • Accent a grilled cheese or ham and cheese sandwich (especially with Manchego or similar cheese, such as Cheddar or Jarlsberg).
  • Add to a charcuterie board.
  • Assemble canapés of membrillo, Manchego and serrano ham on toast.
  • Bake into fruit bars or thumbprint cookies, substituting for preserves.
  • Breakfast toast: Instead of jam, spread cream cheese or other soft cheese over toast, and top with a thin slice of membrillo. You can also make quince butter to spread on toast.
  • Create a glaze for roast chicken, lamb or pork. Combine membrillo with stock and whisk over heat into a sauce; whisk in some sherry vinegar at the end. Baste regularly (also baste with the pan juices).
  • Garnish cheesecake, serving a slice of membrillo on the side, or creating a membrillo glaze for the top.
  • Make dessert puffs: Cut puff pastry dough into 1- x 3-inch strips. Top with quince paste, goat cheese and chopped fresh rosemary onto each strip, then pinch the outer edges together. Bake at 350°F until the pastry is golden, about 12 minutes.
  • Make gougères with Manchego cheese, and include a piece of membrillo.
  • Serve for dessert with cream cheese, goat cheese or mascarpone.
  • Spread onto crostini or bruschetta, with cheese of choice.
  • Sweet Foods: Quince is used to make jam, jelly, quince pudding, pies and tarts. Adding a dice of quince to applesauce and apple pies enhances the flavor and texture. It can be baked, braised, poached or stewed and served as a dessert or a side with meat and poultry.
  • Turn into a salsa for fish: a tiny dice of membrillo, figs, lemon, basil and marcona almonds.
  • Turn into syrup. Whisk with water over heat to create a syrup for yogurt, fruit and desserts. Try it as a sweetener for tea and in cocktails.
  •  
    Most varieties of quince are too hard and astringent to be eaten raw. Cooked, quince become flavorful and aromatic.
     
     
    THE HISTORY OF MEMBRILLO

    It may well be that the fruit Eve fed to Adam in the Garden Of Eden was not an apple but a quince (the edible variety is Cydonia oblonga, not to be confused with the ornamental genus, Chaenomeles).

    The book of Genesis does not name the specific type of the fruit that Eve picked and shared with Adam. Cultivation of quince preceded apple cultivation in the area. Many early references that have been translated as “apple” may in fact have been quince.

    Quince is also presumed to be the “golden apples” of the legends of antiquity.

    Quince is related to both the apple and the pear. It looks like a combination of the two: a large, lumpy pear.

    Native to the Caucasus, the mountain range that separates Europe and Asia, quince trees originated in the deciduous forests in the foothills of the Caucasus mountains, stretching east from Iran and Turkestan.

    The fruit was subsequently grafted and bred by the ancient Greeks, to produce quince with an exceptional quality [source].

    The Greeks loved quince. Quince was sacred to Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love and fertility. Plutarch notes that Greek brides chewed on a piece of quince to get sweet-smelling breath before entering the bridal chamber (what about the husbands?). They were also set in bowls to perfume the area with their aroma.

    The Romans continued the Greek tradition, often representing the Aphrodite’s counterpart, Venus holding a quince. They also gave quince to newlyweds for good luck and fertility.

    Quince appears in the art of antiquity: from wall paintings and mosaics in Pompeii, to ancient Babylon.

    After the discovery of preserving foods in sugar, in the fourth century C.E., Roman agriculturist and writer Palladius baked quince honey strips, which turned quince into a spread. As early as the seventh century, recipes for jellies prepared with quince juice and honey began to appear.

    In the Middle Ages, quince was also highly valued. It was often served at tables of monarchs and aristocrats.

    The alchemist and confectioner Nostradamus left several written recipes for quince compote [source].

    The tree spread throughout southern Europe and up to England. Quince trees were first recorded in Britain in 1275, when Edward I planted them at the Tower of London. Recipes from the 13th and 14th centuries include quince pies. The fruits remained popular in the 17th and 18th centuries, but were ultimately edged out by apples and pears, which are enjoyable to eat raw (quince are not).

    From England, quince traveled to Colonial America. Jefferson grew quinces at Monticello. If you’re so inclined (and live in zones 5 through 9), quince is easy to grow: self-pollinating and almost impervious to pests.
     
     
    The Meaning Of “Membrillo”

    Membrillo is the Spanish word for a fruit paste condiment and the fruit from which it is made: quince.

    The name membrillo comes from the name for the quince tree’s branches (the tree is Cydonia oblonga). When the branches are new, they are tender, flexible, and highly resilient, just like wicker: mimbre. “Membrillo” is the diminutive of mimbre.

    The word “marmalade,” which originally meant quince jam, derives from “marmelo,” the Portuguese word for quince. The form of quince we personally eat most often—membrillo—is a quince paste (crema de membrillo) enjoyed with Spanish cheeses. (If you see it, buy it—it couldn’t be more delicious.)
     
     
    Cheese Condiments

    Mexican Cheese Course With Membrillo

    Quince Tart Recipe

    Quince Tart Tatin Recipe

      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Things To Do With Rice Vinegar For National Vinegar Day

    November 1st is National Vinegar Day.

    While we’ve written about the different types of vinegar, today we’re focusing on rice vinegar, also called rice wine vinegar though it’s not made from rice wine.

    Rice vinegar, made by fermenting rice, is the prevalent vinegar in China, Japan, Korea and Vietnam. Basic rice vinegar ranges from colorless to pale yellow. There are also specialized rice vinegars used in cooking particular Chinese dishes.

    Compared to cider vinegar, wine vinegar and distilled white vinegar, rice vinegar is less acidic with a delicate, mild sweetness. Tiny amounts of brown sugar and invert sugar are used in its production. A tablespoon has just 2.7 calories, the same as most other vinegars (balsamic vinegar is higher).
     
     
    USES FOR RICE VINEGAR

    Rice vinegar is used to perk up or heighten flavors—it’s used to flavor sushi rice—while rice wine is used to add depth or sweetness to a recipe.

    Rice vinegar can be used in everyday American cuisine, like these foods:

    Cocktails. Balsamic vinegar has been used in cocktail recipes for some time. Rice wine vinegar gives a lift to savory cocktails. Try it in Bloody Marys, Dirty Martinis and cucumber-based cocktails. We like cucumber vodka with a splash of rice vinegar.

    Marinades. Substitute rice wine vinegar for any other vinegar in marinades.

    Pickling. Substitute half of the white vinegar for rice vinegar. If you like the difference (we do!), use 100% next time. You can try it today with quick pickling (pickled vegetables in just 2 hours!).

    Salads & Slaws. Substitute rice vinegar in your salad dressing. Because it isn’t as tart as other vinegars, you can use a 2:1 or 1:1 ratio of rice vinegar to oil. Martha Stewart makes her rice vinaigrette with a 1:1 ration plus Dijon mustard, honey and lime juice (recipe). Definitely use it for fruit salad dressings.

    Sautés. Add a tablespoon each of rice vinegar and soy sauce to beef, chicken and vegetable stir-frys.

    Stir-Frys. Add a splash of rice vinegar for extra flavor. You can make a stir-fry sauce from 1 cup broth, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 tablespoon sugar and 1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar, whisked together. For a thick sauce, whisk in 1 teaspoon cornstarch and let sit for 10 minutes before adding to the stir-fry.

    Vegetables. Substitute a bit of flavored rice vinegar for butter on cooked vegetables, including baked potatoes and French fries (instead of the traditional malt vinegar). The sprinkle-tops on Nakano bottles make this easy.
     
     
    NAKANO RICE VINEGARS

    Nakano, currently, the #1 selling rice vinegar in the U.S., has a line of natural (no sugar added) and organic rice vinegars. In addition to the classic (plain) varieties, we’re especially attracted to the flavored vinegars, in:

  • Balsamic Seasoned
  • Basil and Oregano
  • Citrus
  • Roasted Garlic
  • Red Pepper
  •  
    The flavored varieties include “splash bottles”—a perforated top under the cap—to shake vinegars on fish, meat, salads, vegetables and anything else that needs a hit of flavor.

    The line is certified kosher by OU, and is available nationwide. FOR MORE INFORMATION visit NakanoSwaps.com.
     
     
    NAKANO RICE VINEGAR

    TYPES OF VINEGAR

    THE HISTORY OF VINEGAR

    HOW VINEGAR IS MADE
     
     
    RECIPE: NUTMEG NANNY’S CITRUS CHICKEN SALAD (Photo #3)

    Ingredients For The Chicken

  • 4 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves
  • 1/4 cup Nakano Citrus Seasoned Rice Vinegar
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • 1/2 cup olive oil, divided
  • 1-1/4 cup orange juice, divided
  •  

    Nakano Rice Vinegar
    [1] Natural and Original rice vinegars. Natural is made without the traditional bit of sugar (photos courtesy Nakano).

    Nakano Flavored Vinegar
    [2] Two of the flavored rice vinegars: Roasted Garlic and Citrus (photos courtesy Nutmeg Nanny).

    Chicken Grapefruit Salad
    [3] Chicken salad with arugula, avocado and grapefruit in a rice vinegar vinaigrette, from Nutmeg Nanny. The recipe is below.

    Salmon Rice Vinegar Marinade
    Salmon in a ginger-orange marinade with rice vinegar (photo courtesy What To Cook Today).

     
    For The Salad

  • 8 cups mixed salad greens
  • 1 large grapefruit, peeled and sectioned (white or ruby)
  • 1 avocado, peeled and quartered
  • 1/3 cup toasted shelled pistachio nuts
  •  
    For The Salad Dressing

  • 1/2 cup Nakano Roasted Garlic Seasoned Rice Vinegar
  • 1/4 cup orange juice
  • 1/4 teaspoon dry mustard powder
  • Kosher salt and pepper, to taste
  •  
    Preparation

    1. HEAT 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a heavy skillet until very hot. Quickly sear the chicken on both sides. Pour orange juice and rice vinegar over the chicken; continue cooking over high heat until juice is evaporated and the chicken is glazed.

    2. TURN the chicken once or twice during cooking. When chicken is fully glazed and cooked through…

    3. REMOVE it from the heat and let cool while preparing the salad.

    4. MAKE the salad dressing and set aside. SLICE the avocado and set aside. Slice the chicken. Combine the other salad ingredients and toss with the vinaigrette. Place in a large bowl or on individual plates.

    5. ARRANGE the chicken and avocado slices atop the salad and serve.
     
     
    ALSO CHECK OUT:

  • Layered Taco Salad in Mason Jar
  • Ginger Orange Marinade For Salmon (photo #4)
  •  

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Pumpkin Eggnog For Halloween & Thanksgiving

    Thanksgiving Eggnog
    [1] Blender eggnog takes just five minutes (photo courtesy Kitchen Gidget).

    Hood Pumpkin Eggnog
    [2] Even easier option: Buy the eggnog and add your own spirits (photo courtesy Hood Dairy).

     

    “Eggnog season” conventionally runs from Christmas season through the New Year. But why not celebrate before then with pumpkin eggnog, from the harvest season through Thanksgiving?

    You can start tonight, Halloween.

    The easiest path is to purchase a carton of pumpkin eggnog from Hood, Meadow Gold and other brands (photo #2).

    But in just five minutes, you can make your own (photo #1). Just add the ingredients to a blender and blend away.

    If you don’t want a drink with eggs, consider a pumpkin milkshake or smoothie. There are recipes galore online.
     
     
    RECIPE: PUMPKIN EGGNOG

    This eggnog recipe serves four in 6-ounce glasses. For “just a nip,” You can serve a smaller portion with after-dinner coffee.

    If children are participating, make the recipe without the spirits; then add the bourbon or rum to individual cups.

    Eggnog is one of 12 popular recipes that use raw eggs. If you are concerned about salmonella, check out pasteurized eggs.

    We adapted this recipe from one by Kitchen Gidget.
     
    Ingredients For 3 Cups/4 Servings

  • 2 large eggs
  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice
  • 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 3 tablespoons pumpkin purée
  • Pinch salt
  • 3/4 cup whole milk
  • 3/4 cup heavy cream
  • 1/4 cup bourbon or rum (preferably dark rum)
  •  
    Preparation

    1. ADD the eggs to a blender and process on medium speed for 1 minute. While still processing, slowly add the sugar and blend for 1 additional minute.

    2. ADD the remaining ingredients with the blender on slow; then switch back to medium until thoroughly combined. Taste, and adjust seasonings as desired (more spice [cinnamon, cloves, ginger, nutmeg], more pumpkin purée).

    3. TRANSFER to a pitcher and move to the refrigerator to chill. Before serving, whisk briefly. Garnish with freshly grated nutmeg.
     
     
    THE HISTORY OF EGGNOG

    Eggnog, also spelled egg nog, is a descendant of the milk-and-wine punches that had long been part of European celebrations.

    When the colonists arrived in the Americas, they had access to rum from the Caribbean. It was an even better (and stronger) alternative to the wine.

    Eggnog became a popular wintertime drink throughout Colonial America (President George Washington was quite a fan).

    Here’s more history of eggnog.
      

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    TOP PICK OF THE WEEK: The Matzo Project, Delicious Flavored Matzo

    Matzo, variously translated from Hebrew as matzoh, matza, matzah, matztzah and other spellings, is a 3,000-year-old accidental recipe.
     
     
    SOME MATZO HISTORY

    As anyone who knows the story of Exodus will remember, in the time of Moses, Egypt’s pharaoh* finally agreed after much appealing, and then the 10 plagues, to let the enslaved children of Israel go.

    The Israelites left their homes so quickly that they didn’t have time to bake bread for the journey. Instead of waiting hours for the dough to rise, they made an unleavened mixture of flour and water that baked up flat.

    Later, as they celebrated Passover, the commemoration of the Exodus, unleavened matzo was designated the only bread permitted during the eight-day observance.

    The dry, flavorless quality bothers some observant Jews, then and now. Passover matzo is just flour and water, no salt. (That said, matzo tastes similar to Carr’s water crackers, a popular specialty cracker.)

    It’s no surprise that the Hebrew word matztzah (plural matztzoth), literally means “juiceless.” (In English it’s also spelled matza, matzo, and matzoh, among other transliterations from the Hebrew.)

    > The history of matzo ball soup.
     
     
    MODERN MATZO

    We are one of the group of eaters who loves matzo and eats it year-round (in addition to other crunchy flatbreads like lavash and Swedish crispbread).

    One can now find year-round options from companies like Manischewitz, Streit’s, and Yehuda that include ancient grains, egg, and onion; are unsalted, lightly salted, whole wheat, or gluten-free.

    They’re a step up from saltless matzo, but a great leap forward has been made by The Matzo Project, a line of delightfully flavorful matzos.
     
     
    ENTER: THE MATZO PROJECT

    The Matzo Project was conceived by a woman who had been contemplating improving the flavor of matzo for nearly 20 years. She casually mentioned it to a friend one day and boom! The duo set out to improve “the culturally beloved, but traditionally flavorless box of matzo.”

    They have succeeded grandly, producing super-crunchy, extra-sturdy, very flavorful matzo boards and crackers in:

  • Cinnamon Sugared
  • Everything
  • Salted
  • Specialty flavors like Harissa (exciting!)
  •  
    Each flavor is more delicious than the next, in:

  • Matzo Boards (Everything and Salted)
  • Matzo Chips (Cinnamon Sugared, Everything, Harissa, Salted)
  • Chocolate Matzo Ungapotchkies, matzo clusters dipped in chocolate (currently sold out, alas)
  • The Whole Megillah, a gift box of everything
  • Matzo Ball Mix & Matzo Ball Soup Kit
  •  
    New items will be available soon, including Smatzo, and s’mores matzo crackers.

    The line is certified OU kosher and has a spokesbubbe (grandma spokeswoman), whose presence and advice enliven every package. Here’s ours:

    You don’t have to be Jewish to love The Matzo Project. You just have to love a crunchy, yummy cracker.

      The Matzo Project
    [1] These creative crackers have a spokesbubbe, a spokes-grandma. Here she advises, “Call your mother” (all photos courtesy The Matzo Project).

    The Matzo Project
    [2] The matzo is made in both convention boards and crackers.

    Smoked Salmon On Matzo
    [3] Who needs a bagel? Heap cream cheese and smoked salmon on Everything matzo.

    Matzo Gingerbread House
    [4] Instead of a gingerbread house for the holidays, build a matzo house.

     
    Don’t wait until Passover to buy them or give them as fun gifts. Remember, only that flavorless, unsalted matzo can be made kosher for Passover.
     
     
    SERVING UP THE MATZO PROJECT

    The flavors work as everyday crackers, with cinnamon sugar substituting for a cookie with a cup of coffee or tea.

    Cinnamon Sugared also is delicious for a cheese dessert with goat cheese. And Everything goes with…just about everything.

    All the flavors can be eaten straight from the bag as simple snacks or served with ingredients both humble (hummus) and luxurious (canapés, smoked salmon).

    Buy them online at MatzoProject.com or find a retailer near you.

    ________________

    *The Bible does not name the pharaoh, but scholars place Thutmose II as the pharaoh at the time of the Exodus.
     
     

    CHECK OUT WHAT’S HAPPENING ON OUR HOME PAGE, THENIBBLE.COM.

     
     
     
     

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    FOOD 101: Ways To Preserve Food

    Ancient Food Preservation
    [1] Drying meat or fish over a fire (image courtesy Kitchen Of The Future).

    Drying Squash
    [2] Drying squash (photo courtesy China Daily).

    Drying Ducks
    [3] Drying ducks; the same technique is used for air-dried hams (photo courtesy China Daily).

    Drying Fruits
    [5] Drying fruits (photo courtesy Brainview).

    Sundried Tomatoes
    [4] Sundried tomatoes are preserved today as they were thousands of years ago (photo courtesy Bella Sun Luci).

     

    In modern times, businesses and homes use refrigeration and freezing to preserve food. We buy canned, freeze-dried and otherwise shelf-stable (no refrigeration required) foods.

    In the millennia before the invention of canning and the mechanical ice box, people kept food cold with ice and snow, saved during the winter months or brought down from mountaintops. Insulated metal “ice boxes” were available in the 1880s, with blocks of ice delivered by the “ice man.” The home electric refrigerator didn’t arrive until 1930.

    In ancient times, the wealthy could afford to have ice cut from lakes and rivers in the winter, or brought down from the mountaintops in warmer countries, and stored in ice houses for summer use. The oldest known ice house, built by a king in Persia, dates from about 1700 B.C.E. Most other people dug ice pits, lined with straw and sawdust as insulation.

    At the dawn of mankind, people had to learn to preserve food for lean times. Food, whether animal or vegetable, begins to spoil as soon as it is killed or taken from roots, trees or vines. So man had to figure out how to preserve the portion of it that wasn’t needed immediately.

    In hot climates, man dried meat, fish, fruit and vegetables in the sun, removing the moisture that leads to spoilage. In cold climates, he kept food frozen in the ice or packed under snow.

    Other techniques evolved, enabling not only preservation, but a variety of different flavors that have become part of our culinary repertoire.
     
     
    PRESERVING FOOD ENABLED “CIVILIZATION”

    Beyond drying and freezing, other forms of food preservation enabled the formation of communities. Man no longer had to be a hunter-gatherer, consuming what was killed or harvested immediately, but could preserve some of the bounty for later use.

    Preservation techniques were especially needed when man settled down in agricultural communities, around 9500 B.C.E. Food preservation enabled ancient man to set down roots and form a community.

    We still use the techniques that our early ancestors developed. Here they are, in alphabetical order.

    Thanks to the National Center for Home Food Preservation for much of this information.
     
     
    TYPES OF FOOD PRESERVATION

    Canning & Freeze-Drying

    While first alphabetically, canning is one of the newest forms of preservation, developed in France in the 1790s. It uses heat, originally to seal food in glass bottles, inspired by wine in bottles. Based on the success, in 1810 an Englishman applied the concept to tin cans—lighter in weight and not breakable (the history of canning). The next modern technique was freeze drying (see below).

    Curing

    Early cultures used salt to help remove the moisture from foods (called desiccation) which prevents the growth of microorganisms. Salting was the common technique to preserve fish and meats, followed by brining (salted water).

    Drying & Smoking

    Ancient man harnessed the sun and wind to dry meat, fish, fruits and vegetables, with archaeological evidence showing the process used as early as 12,000 B.C.E. Areas that lacked strong sunlight for drying dried and smoked food over a fire.

    Honey & Sugar

    Preservation of fruits in honey or sugar was commonplace in the earliest cultures. The Romans improved on the method by cooking the quince and honey producing a solid texture—the first jams and preserves. In southeast Asia, where sugar originated, in northern climates that lacked enough sunlight to successfully dry fruits, heating fruit with sugar produced what we know know as preserves and chutneys.

    Fermenting

    Evidence from around 5400 B.C.E. indicates that man discovered how to ferment grains into beer. But the process may be much older: It is believed that one of the impetuses for Neolithic hunter-gatherers to settle down to farming was to grow barley to make beer, around 10,000 B.C.E. Grapes and other fruits followed, creating wine. The technique was used to preserve vegetables, turning cabbage into kimchi and sauerkraut, and other pickled vegetables. Fermentation creates more nutritious foods: the microorganisms involved produce vitamins as they ferment. The technique turned less palatable foods into more palatable ones.

    Freezing & Freeze Drying

    Any ancient civilization that had freezing temperatures for at least part of the year used the freezing temperatures to preserve foods, digging holes in the ice or compacting snow over the stash. The use of natural caves for cold storage turned into root cellars and ice houses. Jars and other containers were also placed in cool streams for preservation. In the late 1800s, Clarence Birdseye, who observed Native Americans freezing fish in the ice, perfected the “quick freeze” process. Freeze drying was invented around 1890 for commercial use. But it not brought into consumer consciousness until freeze-dried coffee and NASA’s freeze-dried “astronaut ice cream,” in the 1960s.

    Pickling

    Pickling is the preservation of food in vinegar or other acid. Vinegar was first created accidentally thousands of years ago, when wine fermented for too long. Evidence of pickled cucumbers dates to around 4,500 years ago in Mesopotamia. Wine, beer and cider can all transformed into vinegar. Foods from olives to fish were brined in a solution of vinegar and water. The ancestor of our popular condiment, ketchup, was an oriental fish brine.

     
    Today, some Americans can, cure, dry, ferment and pickle foods at home; not because they have to, but because they take pride in making their own foods.
      

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