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RECIPE: Roast Loin Of Pork With Gingered Figs & Jalapeños

We grew up in a family so passionate about cooking (or was that obsessive?), that for holiday meals there were at least two of everything: two appetizers, two main courses, and more than two hors d’oeuvre, sides and desserts.

Lacking the energy of our mother, grandmother and aunt, we’d planned only one main course for Easter dinner: a family favorite, classic roast leg of lamb with mint jelly.

Then, we received this very contemporary recipe for a fancy pork roast. The lavender, gingered figs and jalapeños turned our heads. So the pork loin is joining the lamb leg on the Easter table.

The recipe was created by Jan Birnbaum, executive chef of Epic Roadhouse restaurant in San Francisco (it has a great view of the Bay Bridge) and typically serves eight people. In the case of a companion leg of lamb, it can serve many more—or promise several days of delicious leftovers.

 

Flavorful pork loin, sliced and plated. Photo courtesy Epic Roadhouse | San Francisco.

 
The gingered figs can be prepared up to 10 days in advance. In fact, making them at least five days in advance allows the figs to develop the best flavor.

RECIPE: LAVENDER PORK LOIN WITH GINGERED FIGS, CALIFORNIA RAISINS &
JALAPENOS

Ingredients For The Pork Loin

  • 8 bone pork loin, bone on, frenched (ask the butcher to do this)
  • 1 head garlic, skins removed and cloves smashed
  • 1 small branch of lavender
  • 1 branch rosemary
  • 1 branch of thyme
  • ½ cup olive oil
  • 2 teaspoons whole grain mustard (you can substitute Dijon)
  •  

    Ingredients For Sauce & Garnish

  • 12 ripe but firm fresh figs (dried figs can be substituted)
  • 1 small finger of ginger, peeled and sliced
  • ½ cup honey
  • ½ cup sugar
  • ½ cup water
  • 4 allspice berries, smashed
  • 5 black peppercorns, smashed
  • ¼ cup fresh lime juice
  • ¼ cup fresh lemon juice
  •  


    The frenched loin of pork. Photo courtesy
    AllenBros.com.
     

    Ingredients For The Potatoes

  • 16 – 20 fingerling potatoes or other small creamer potatoes
  • ¼ cup olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon butter, melted
  • 10 whole garlic cloves in their skins gently smashed
  • ½ teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  •  
    Ingredients To Finish The Dish

  • 1 container demi-glace* (or homemade)
  • 1 cup raisins
  • 1 jalapeño, seeds and spines removed (unless you want the heat), thinly sliced
  • Red wine to deglaze pan
  • Chopped fresh parsley for garnish
  •  
    *Demi glaze is a reduced, intense stock reduction made of veal, red wine and shallots. Most high end grocery stores and butcher shops sell frozen veal demi glace. We use the More Than Gourmet brand, but any brand will work.

    Preparation

    1. MAKE GINGERED FIGS. Place ginger, allspice berries and black pepper corns in a sachet. Combine with the honey, sugar, water, lime and lemon juices in a heavy, nonreactive pot (see discussion below about reactive vs. nonreactive cookware). Bring to a gentle boil and simmer until the liquid begins to become syrup-like; do not over-reduce. Prep the figs by placing a skin deep “X” on the flower end. Place the figs in a steel pan submerged halfway in ice with some water. Pour the hot liquid over the figs. Refrigerate for up to 10 days.

    2. THE NIGHT BEFORE the dinner, combine garlic, lavender, rosemary, thyme, olive oil and mustard. Marinate the pork in this mixture overnight. The following day…

    3. BLANCH the potatoes in salted water until creamy in center, cool and cut in half. Toss the potatoes with the olive oil, garlic cloves in their skins, chopped rosemary and melted butter. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Reserve.

    4. PREHEAT the oven to 375°F. In a skillet, heat the olive oil and sear the pork over medium high heat. Remove to roasting pan and place in oven. After 20 minutes, add the potatoes cut side down with the garlic cloves and herbs. Allow to roast for 20 more minutes or until internal temperature of pork reaches 140°F. Remove from oven. Remove roast from pan and allow to rest on cutting board at room temperature, covered with a clean kitchen towel.

    5. REMOVE excess fat from the pan and sauté the jalapeños on the stove top in the roasting pan, over medium heat for 2 minutes. Add the red wine to deglaze pan. Reduce wine until nearly dry. Add raisins, cut figs in half and add them. Simmer for 5 minutes then gently whisk in butter so as not to damage the figs. Adjust salt and pepper.

    6. TO SERVE: Spoon potatoes onto a large platter; slice the chops at each bone and place on top of potatoes. Spoon the figs, raisins and sauce over the entirety. Sprinkle with freshly chopped parsley.

     
    REACTIVE VERSUS NON-REACTIVE POTS & PANS

    Reactive cookware—pots and pans—are made of metals that can react with acidic foods (tomato sauce, for example), creating metallic flavors and the discoloration of lighter foods. Non-reactive cookware doesn’t do this, but it typically doesn’t conduct heat as quickly or uniformly (reactive aluminum is second only to reactive copper in ability to conduct heat).

    The most ubiquitous cookware, stainless steel, is nonreactive but does not conduct or retain heat well. Good stainless cookware has aluminum or copper bonded to the bottom (or sandwiched in-between stainless layers) to combine the non-reactive surface with rapid, uniform heat conductivity.

  • Non Reactive Cookware. When a recipe calls for a non-reactive cookware, use ceramic, enameled cast iron or steel, glass, stainless steel or stoneware.
  • Reactive Cookware. Aluminum, cast iron, copper and steel that is not stainless are reactive metals. However, some cooks find that well-seasoned pans made of these metals do well for short cooking periods.
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    EASTER: Chocolate Lavender Marshmallow Bars

    We received this recipe around Valentine’s Day from TheGiftOfGoodness.com, a blog from the Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board that focuses on recipes for sweet treats. We didn’t get to make it then, but we’ve repurposed it for Easter…with a jelly bean garnish. Of course, you can take it further: Our friend Rose is using the bars as bases for Marshmallow Peeps.

    Lavender-infused butter, a layer of semisweet chocolate and sprinkling of sea salt give this version of Rice Krispie Treats a grown-up twist. Think of them as sophisticated adult Rice Krispie Treats…although the kids won’t refuse their fair share.

    The better the chocolate you use, the better the result. The recipe makes 20 bars.

     
    A sophisticated version of Rice Krispie Treats. Photo courtesy TheGiftOfGoodness.com.
     
    CHOCOLATE LAVENDER MARSHMALLOW BARS (RICE
    KRISPIE TREATS)

    Ingredients

  • 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
  • 2 teaspoons dried culinary* lavender, chopped
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1 16-ounce bag mini marshmallows
  • 1 12-ounce box Rice Krispies or other crispy rice cereal
  • 16 ounces semisweet chocolate
  • Sea salt, for sprinkling
  • Optional holiday garnish (Easter jelly beans, Valentine hearts)
  •  
    *Culinary lavender is grown without pesticides. Lavender for potpourri may be covered in chemicals.

    Preparation

    1. MELT butter in large pot over low heat. Add lavender and salt and cook for 5 minutes to infuse the butter, stirring frequently.

    2. ADD marshmallows. Cook until they are completely melted, stirring constantly.

    3. REMOVE pot from heat. Add cereal and stir until well combined. Spread mixture onto a large jelly roll pan. To create an even layer, place a piece of wax paper over the pan and gently roll over with rolling pin.

    4. MELT chocolate using a double boiler over medium heat, stirring constantly. Alternatively, place chocolate in a microwave-safe bowl and heat 1 to 2 minutes, stirring every 30 seconds.

    5. SPREAD chocolate evenly over marshmallow mixture. Sprinkle with sea salt. Add the optional holiday garnish.

    6. REFRIGERATE pan at least 30 minutes before cutting bars and serving.
     
    FIND MORE OF OUR FAVORITE GOURMET COOKIE RECIPES.
      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Sparkling Water & Espresso

    The chaser, a time-honored custom of alcohol consumption, is glass of water or a milder beverage consumed immediately after a strong drink. The term developed around 1897 from the French chasser, to chase.

    But it took some etymological evolution to create the chaser we know today. Originally, the term referred to a drink of liquor consumed to kill the aftertaste of coffee or tobacco.

    Say hello to the reverse of the modern chaser: There is no term for it, so we’re calling it a “leader” (leading is the reverse of chasing). It’s a glass of sparkling water served before a coffee or liquor, to clear the palate.

    We didn’t invent the idea: It came to us from Ferrarelle, Italy’s favorite naturally sparkling mineral water, which is readily available across the U.S.

    Ferrarelle caught the trend from Italian baristas.

     
    Enjoy a “leader” of sparkling water before your espresso. Espresso cup courtesy Illy. Photo by Elvira Kalviste | THE NIBBLE.
     
    Baristas, who want to deliver a perfect espresso experience, have found that serving a small glass of sparkling water first, cleanses and enlivens the palate. The thousands of tiny bubbles help wake up the senses, and the dissolved minerals in the water can add a new taste dimension to an espresso.

    The trend seems to have begun in coffee bars in Milan, Italy. Order an espresso and a small glass of sparkling water appears first.

    So, be the trendsetter in your crowd. You may even teach your local barista a thing or two.
     
    WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT ESPRESSO & ESPRESSO-BASED DRINKS?

    Check out our Espresso Glossary. You’ll discover the different types of espresso drinks and the history of espresso.

      

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    COCKTAILS: Save Calories With VitaFrute From VeeV


    Ready to drink, VitaFrute lower calorie
    cocktails reduce the sugar calories in
    cocktails. Photo courtesy VeeV Spirits.
     

    Typical mixed drinks can pack on the calories. The standard 1.5 ounce serving of 80-proof alcohol has 96 calories, which seems reasonable. But start to add mixers:

  • Cranberry juice cocktail (8 oz.): 136 calories
  • Light orange juice (8 oz.): 50 calories
  • Orange juice (6 oz.): 84 calories
  • Soft drink (cola, 7-Up, etc., 8 oz.): 100 calories, 25g sugar
  • Piña colada mix (6 ounces): 130 calories, 25g sugar
  •  
    But there are calorie-saving solutions:

     
    LOOK FOR REDUCED CALORIE READY-MADE COCKTAILS

    One easy way to control a sweet cocktail while controlling the calories is the new line of VitaFrute cocktails from VeeV Spirits, in Margarita, Organic Lemonade and Organic Cosmopolitan. The base spirit is VeeV, the world’s first spirit made from the superfruit açaí.

     
    Sweetened with low-glycemic agave nectar, cocktails are under 125 calories per serving. By comparison, a four-ounce glass of wine has 125-150 calories.

    The suggested retail price of VitaFrute is $13.99 to $14.99 per bottle. Learn more about VeeV spirit and VitaFrute cocktails at VeeVLife.com.

    Here are more tips to cut back on the calories in cocktails:

    HOW TO REDUCE THE CALORIES IN MIXED DRINKS

  • If you can, choose savory, not sweet, cocktails, such as the popular Bloody Mary and Martini.
  • Use calorie-free flavored club soda instead a soft drink mixer (lemon seltzer instead of 7-Up, for example).
  • Use club soda and bitters, or diet ginger ale, instead of ginger ale; and use the diet versions of other soda mixers (cola, lemon-lime, tonic water, etc.).
  • Use “light” or diet mixers: eight ounces of light cranberry juice have 40 calories, light lemonade has 5 calories, diet soda or diet tonic water has 0 calories.
  • Avoid premade cocktail mixes; there’s sugar hidden in everything, including spicy Bloody Mary mix.
  • Look at coffee- and tea-based cocktails such as a Chai Tea Martini or Espresso Martini; coffee and tea have zero calories.
  •  

  • Use low glycemic agave nectar or noncaloric sweeteners to sweeten cocktails.
  • Use sugar-free, calorie-free syrups from DaVinci or Torani to sweeten and flavor cocktails.
  • Try sugar-free mixers. We’ve tried Baja Bob’s Margarita and Sweet ‘n’ Sour mixes, but find that we prefer agave nectar and fresh lime juice for a Margarita, and fresh lemon juice and agave for a Whiskey Sour; .5 ounce of lemon or lime juice has just 10 calories.
  • Use fresh fruit and herb garnishes to add flavor and eye appeal.
  • Avoid creamy cocktails, whether dairy cream (Brandy Alexander, White Russian) or cream of coconut (Piña Colada). Substitute coconut water to add coconut flavor to a cocktail, or use coconut-infused vodka (see our next tip).
  •  


    VeeV, the açaí-based mother spirit of VitaFrute cocktails.

     

  • Try infused vodkas straight instead of a similarly-flavored mixed drink; UV Vodka has every flavor under the rainbow including chocolate, and Skyy Infusions’ 12 infused vodkas are a NIBBLE favorite (Pineapple vodka is our replacement of choice for the high-calorie Piña Colada). The infusions add no calories.
  • Dilute your cocktail with club soda or sparkling water (we’ve been enjoying wine spritzers since we were old enough to drink) to half and half, with a squeeze of lime juice.
  •  
    Finally, our favorite calorie-saving cocktail strategy:

  • Alternate cocktails with no- or low-calorie “mocktails”: noncaloric or low-calorie drinks, from club soda with bitters to a Virgin Mary.
  •  
    If you’ve got additional tips, use the Contact Us link to send them in!

      

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    RECIPE: Flavorful Tofu Salad Dressing With Salsa Verde


    [1] Tofu salsa verde makes a delicious salad dressing and all-around condiment (photo © House Foods).

    Tofu Cubes
    [2] Cubes of fresh tofu (photo © Kamala Bright | Unsplash).

    Green Sauce-Salsa Verde For Lampredotto Sandwich
    [3] Salsa verde (Gemini Photo).

    A Bunch Of Curly Parsley
    [4] Parsley is the base for Old World, or European, salsa verde. Mexican salsa verde, made with tomatillos and chiles, is a culinary cousin.

     

    We’re in an Asian state of mind today; in addition to this homemade ramen soup recipe, we whipped up a green salad with a salsa verde tofu dressing.

    Tofu is a wonderful ingredient for salad dressing, adding protein and fiber to a condiment that typically has neither.

    This recipe was created by Debi Mazar and Gabriele Corcos, stars of Cooking Channel’s show Extra Virgin. They used House Foods Organic Soft Tofu, but you can use any soft/silken tofu.

    Below:

    > Recipe: romaine hearts salad with tofu salsa verde.

    > What is salsa verde?

    Elsewhere on The Nibble:

    > What is tofu?

    > Tofu health benefits.

    > More tofu recipes.

    > The history of tofu.

    > The year’s 6 soy food holidays.

    > The year’s 11 Japanese food holidays.

    > The different types of salsa.
     
     
    ABOUT SALSA VERDE

    First, there are two different basic salsas verde. Both are green sauces. The one used in this recipe is the European herbed-based sauce; we’ll designate it Old World or herb-based salsa verde. The other is the New World, tomatillo-based salsa verde, using the small green fruit that’s native to the Aztec Empire. See the comparison chart below.
     
     
    Old World Salsa Verde

    Old World salsa verde is a cold, rustic sauce/dressing with a base of parsley plus anchovies, capers, garlic, olive oil, onion, parsley, vinegar, and sometimes, mustard. The parsley gives the sauce its green tint.

    The concept for the family of herb-based cold sauces common in Italy (salsa verde), France (sauce verte), and Germany (Grüne Sosse [Soße]) likely originated in the Near East more than 2,000 years old.

    Historical evidence suggests that the basic formula—pounding fresh herbs with oil and vinegar—originated in ancient-day Levant and Mesopotamia*.

    The Roman Legions encountered these aromatic herb pastes during their Eastern campaigns and brought the concept home, where it became a staple for preserving and flavoring meats. From there it traveled to other parts of what is now Europe.

    Today salsa verde is used as a condiment or dipping sauce for meats, fish, poultry, or vegetables. It’s a great accent to many dishes; and because it’s so flavorful, you can cut back on added salt.

  • In some regions, cubed bread is soaked in vinegar and then blended with the other ingredients, creating an emulsion somewhat similar to a vinaigrette.
  • Another variation, gremolata, is the traditional accompaniment to osso bucco, the popular braised veal shank dish.
  • Our favorite uses: a condiment with meat (from lamb, pork or rib roast to veal and venison), poultry, pasta, potatoes and other vegetables (we love it with sautéed string beans) or salad.
  •  
    The recipe follows.
     
     
    New World Salsa Verde

    Another salsa verde was developed halfway around the world, also around 2,000 years ago, in the Aztec Empire (modern Mexico). The base ingredient is the tomatillo, a green berry that is not related to the red tomato but is sometimes called field tomato or husk tomato.

    The Aztecs called the sauce miltomatl (Nahuatl [Aztec language] for the husked berry (“tomatillo” and “salsa verde” were bestowed much later by the Spanish).

    Tomatillos, green chiles, and squash seeds were ground into a sauce that was served as a sophisticated condiment with seafood, turkey, and venison.

     
    This and other sauces were documented by Spanish physician Francisco Hernández and missionary Bernardino de Sahagún in the 1500s, noting how essential they were to the local diet.

    In 1571, the Spanish priest Alonso de Molina officially applied the word salsa (Spanish for sauce) to these condiments. The Spanish also:

  • Introduced European herbs like cilantro and onions to the recipe.
  • Exported the tomatillo to Europe and Asia (although it never gained the same foothold there as the red tomato).
  •  
    Types Of Mexican Salsa Verde
     
    As Mexican cuisine evolved, salsa verde was created in different styles based on how the tomatillos were prepared:

  • Cruda (raw): The tomatillos are ground fresh, resulting in a bright, sharp, and acidic flavor.
  • Cocida (boiled): The tomatillos are boiled to mellow their tartness and create a smoother, sweeter sauce.
  • Asada (roasted): The tomatillos and other ingredients are charred on a comal (griddle), adding a smoky depth. This version is a staple of Central and Southern Mexican street food.
  •  
    Salsa verde didn’t become common in the U.S. until the mid-20th century, as Tex-Mex cuisine spread nationwide.

    In 1941, the La Victoria company in Los Angeles introduced the first commercially bottled green taco and enchilada sauces to the American market.

    The New Mexico style of salsa verde originated in New Mexico, where salsa verde often refers to a sauce made with the local Hatch green chiles (roasted) rather than with tomatillos.
     
    Salsa Verde Comparison Chart
    Gemini Chart.
     
     
    HEARTS OF ROMAINE SALAD WITH TOFU SALSA VERDE (SALAD DRESSING)

    In this recipe, Debi and Gabriele substitute tofu for the olive oil.

    Dressing Ingredients

  • 1/2 package (14 ounces) soft (silken) tofu
  • 1/3 cup parsley leaves, roughly chopped
  • 2 tablespoons capers (packed in vinegar)
  • 2 oil-packed anchovies
  • 1 clove garlic, peeled
  • Juice of 1/2 lemon
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 3 hearts of romaine, chopped, and any other desired salad ingredients
  •  
    Preparation

    1. COMBINE tofu, parsley, capers, anchovies, garlic, and lemon juice in a food processor and blend until smooth.

    2. PLACE romaine and other salad ingredients in a large bowl and toss with salsa verde. Leftover dressing can be kept refrigerated in a covered container for 2 days.

    VARIATION: To make this recipe vegetarian/vegan, replace the anchovies with 2 more teaspoons of capers.

    Find more delicious recipes with tofu at House-Foods.com.
     
    Italian Salsa Verde & Crudites
    [5] Salsa verde can also be a dip for crudités (Abacus Photo).

    ________________

    *The Levant is an English term that first appeared in 1497. It originally referred to the “Mediterranean lands east of Italy.” The historical area comprises modern-day Iraq, Israel, Jordan, Lebanon, Palestine and Syria. Among other popular foods, Levantine cuisine gave birth to baklava, balafel, kebabs, mezze (including tabbouleh, hummus and baba ghanoush), pita and za’atar, among other dishes that are enjoyed in the U.S. and around the world.

    Mesopotamia was located further east, centered between the Tigris and Euphrates rivers. Together, the Levant and Mesopotamia formed the two main parts of the Fertile Crescent.

    Mesopotamia primarily comprised modern-day Iraq and parts of eastern Syria and southeastern Turkey. The two regions were separated by the Syrian Desert. A historical note: The Assyrians, from northern Mesopotamia, eventually conquered and controlled the Levant.
     

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