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June is National Tea Month, time for an article on a type of iced tea not yet as broadly served in the U.S. as we think it should be. The easy recipe follows.
For those who already know and love Thai iced tea or coffee but not the overload of sugar, we have a solution below. But first, some history about the drinks.
Below:
> What is Thai iced tea?
> The history of Thai iced tea.
> The history of evaporated milk and sweetened condensed milk, and how they differ.
> Recipe for Thai iced tea or iced coffee.
> Low sugar recipe for Thai iced tea or coffee.
> A brief history of sugar.
Elsewhere on The Nibble:
> The different types of tea: a photo glossary.
> The history of tea.
> The history of iced tea.
> The history of Thai iced tea.
> Iced tea recipes for every type of tea.
> The different types of sugar: a photo glossary.
> The different types of sugar: a photo glossary.
WHAT IS THAI ICED TEA?
Thai iced tea, known as cha-yen in Thailand (cha is the word for tea), is served in Thailand, Vietnam, elsewhere around the Pacific Rim, and in Thai restaurants around the world. It is made from strong-brewed black tea—typically Ceylon tea—and sweetened condensed milk, which adds creaminess, body and mouthfeel.
For visual appeal, the deep amber tea and white sweetened condensed milk (and often, evaporated milk) are swirled together or layered. The drink can be topped off with evaporated milk, coconut milk, half and half, or whole milk. It is sweetened with lots of sugar (local to the the South Pacific), and often served over crushed ice.
The brewed tea can be enhanced with spices, such as cardamom, clove, nutmeg, orange blossom water, star anise, and tamarind. If you like chai tea with milk and sweetener, you are likely to enjoy Thai iced tea.
The countries where it’s most popular are known for hot, steamy summers. Thai iced tea is a welcome refreshment—and a complement to spicy food. If your neck of the woods is as hot and steamy as ours is, it’s time to try the recipe.
THE HISTORY OF THAI ICED TEA
In hot countries before refrigeration, where fresh milk was hard to come by, evaporated milk and sweetened condensed milk were used in coffee, desserts, and other recipes requiring milk (including Key lime pie).
The precise birth date of what is now known today as Thai tea is uncertain. Americans and Europeans living in Asia brought evaporated milk and sweetened condensed milk—first available in 1856—for their tea and coffee [source].
One source suggests that “It was probably introduced during the time of Field Marshall Pibul Songkram [1938 to 1944] who seemed to favor Western habits as being civilized” [source]—hence the ice and milk in tea, previously only a hot drink.
Tea is a relatively new crop in Thailand, brought in by the Chinese in the 1880s to supplant opium as a cash crop to [hopefully] curb drug trafficking. The tea became a street food staple [source]. The British and other foreigners in Thailand had their own supply of tea.
Why is the tea often very orange in color? After the tea was brewed for the master, the domestic workers took used leaves that would have been discarded, to brew tea for themselves. The flavor and color of this second infusion were faded, so orange color and flavoring were added to make a more appealing brew.
The tradition of orange color became a tradition of Thai brewed tea [source]. (See photo #4, below.)
Thai iced coffee followed much later, in the postwar 20th century.
WHO INVENTED EVAPORATED MILK & SWEETENED CONDENSED MILK?
Both products were invented by Gail Borden, who subsequently formed the dairy company that bears his name.
In 1852, Borden was traveling transatlantic when the cows aboard the ship became too seasick to provide milk (there was no refrigeration in those days to keep milk fresh). He began to experiment, and two years later produced a canned milk that did not go sour at room temperature for three days after the can was opened.
Borden received a patent for sweetened condensed milk in 1856 and began commercial production the following year. Unsweetened condensed milk, now called evaporated milk, took more time to perfect since it didn’t have the sugar to inhibit bacteria growth. It was finally canned successfully in 1885.
In the days before refrigeration, both evaporated and sweetened condensed milk were used more than fresh milk in households, because they were less likely to spoil and harbor harmful bacteria.
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