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TIP OF THE DAY: Muscadine Grapes

What are those jumbo grapes you occasionally find in the market?

They’re muscadine grapes, Vitis rotundifolia, a species native to the warm, humid climate of the southeastern and south-central United States.

The vines are well adapted to their native warm and humid climate. The grape has been extensively cultivated since the 16th century.

Today there are more than 300 muscadine cultivars grown in the U.S. When ripe, the different varieties are green, bronze, red or black.

Today’s crops include common (natural) grapes and patented grapes, which are hybrids bred (and patented) to enhance qualities.

Like other grapes, muscadines are a rich source of polyphenols, powerful antioxidants.

Muscadines naturally have thicker skin, so the fruit was not popular as a table grape. Instead, the variety was, and is, typically used in making jelly, juice and wine.

Modern breeding of patent grapes has made the skin readily palatable, and it is these grapes that have sprung up in food markets in the last few years.

Food Trivia: Fans of older novels may have come across characters drinking scuppernong wine. It is a dry red table wine made from the bronze variety of muscadine. In the South, bronze muscadine grapes are called scuppernong, after the Scuppernong River in North Carolina, where they were originally bred. The other colors are called muscadine.
 
 
WAYS TO USE MUSCADINE GRAPES

You can use muscadines anywhere you use other grapes, although in situations requiring a fork, you may need to cut them in half to spear them.

  • Brandied grapes (marinated in brandy or other liqueur or spirit)
  • Cake and cupcake garnishes
  • Cheese plates
  • Frozen snacks
  • Fruit bowl
  • Garnishes, raw or roasted
  • Grape salad (recipe)
  • Hand fruit
  • Pickled grapes
  • Salads: green salads, fruit salads
  • Sides (roasted grapes)
  • Skewers
  •  
     
    COMMON AMERICAN GRAPES

    While immigrants brought their own varieties from Europe (known as Old World grapes), America had a ready supply of indigenous grapes.
     
    Concord Grapes

    Native to eastern North America, the wild vines of Vitis labrusca were first cultivated in the mid-19th century in Concord, Massachusetts, by crossbreeding them with the common European wine grape Vitis vinifera.

    Concord grapes have a sweet, candy-like flavor and a “foxy” aroma. They’re the flavor Americans think of as “grapey”.

    What’s “foxy?” The term refers to a distinctive note found in some wines: a sort of wild, musky, animal aroma. The grapes are often called “fox grapes.”

    The aroma is unusual, but not unpleasant. One wine writer commented that it reminds him of the scent of a fur coat.

    The quality is often found in American grape varieties like Concord or Catawba, and the aroma of the wine is usually accompanied by a grapey flavor.

    Concord grapes are known to most Americans as the grape used to make grape jelly and purple grape juice. They are the most common source of the grape flavoring in candies and sodas.

    Concord grapes are also used to make sweet wines. Their deep purple color makes them a popular choice for sacramental wines and Kosher wines.

      Muscadine Grapes
    [1] Perhaps the largest cultivated grape you’ll find (photo courtesy Sid Wainer).

    Muscadine Grapes
    [2] On the vine (photo courtesy Stark Bros).

    Roast Chicken Muscadine Grapes
    [3] Add them to the roasting pan with any protein (here’s the recipe from Steelehouse Kitchen).

    Frosted Muscadine Grapes
    [4] You can freeze the grapes as a snack, and/or frost them with sugar (here’s the recipe for sugar-frosted grapes; photo and more recipes from Spoongood.

     
    Another note of interest: The variety also has slip skins, meaning that the skin slides freely off the ripe grape when squeezed.
     
    Catawba Grapes

    Other cultivars of the species Vitis labrusca are used to make dry wines.

    Before the Concord grape became prominent, Catawba was the most planted grape in early 19th-century America. It was and is used to make white and rosé sparkling wines, as well as juice, jams and jellies.
     
    Isabella Grapes

    Isabella is another cultivar derived from Vitis labrusca. It is used as a table grape, and to make juice and wine.

    A dark grape originating in the southern United States, it has spread around the world.

    It is widely planted in South America, and is one of the most popular grapes in the former USSR, grown in Azerbaijan, Georgia and Moldova, used to make dry red wines.
     
     
    To learn more about native American grapes, just Google. Here are two articles for starters:

  • Different species
  • Different wines
  •   

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Pie Crust Cutters

    Give your holiday pies some panache with these snowflake pie crust cutters from Williams-Sonoma.

    For a special holiday-themed pie, try this one from the Williams-Sonoma Test Kitchen. Prep time is 60 minutes, cook time is 60 minutes.
     
     
    RECIPE: CRANBERRY SNOWFLAKE PIE

    This recipe makes a deep-dish pie. If you don’t have a deep-dish pie pan, bake the remaining filling in a separate dish, rolling out any dough scraps to make a top crust or decorative cutouts for the second pie. Or, turn the filling into a cranberry crumble or cobbler.

    Ingredients For a 9-Inch Pie

  • 9 cups (2-1/4 lb./1 kg) fresh or frozen cranberries
  • 2-1/4 cups (1 lb./500 g) firmly packed light brown sugar
  • 5 tablespoons cornstarch
  • 1/2 cup (4 fl. oz./125 ml) fresh orange juice
  • 1-1/2 tablespoons grated orange zest
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 2 rolled-out rounds basic pie dough
  • 1 egg, beaten with 1 teaspoon water (egg wash)
  • Turbinado sugar for sprinkling
  •  
    Preparation

    1. COMBINE the cranberries, brown sugar, cornstarch, orange juice and zest, cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Cook until the cranberries soften and release their juice, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the vanilla and let cool to room temperature.

    2. PREHEAT the oven to 375°F (190°C).

     

    Cranberry Pie
    [1] A snowflake-crust pie, ready to adorn your table (both photos Williams-Sonoma).

    Snowflake Pie Cutters

    [2] Pie crust cutters add instant panache to holiday pies.

     
    3. FIT 1 dough round into a 9-inch (23-cm) deep-dish pie pan and gently press into the pan. Trim the edges flush with the rim. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. Pour the cooled filling into the prepared pie dish.

    4. CUT out the top crust, using a snowflake pie crust cutter according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Place the crust on top of the pie, and trim the edges flush with the rim. Crimp the edges to seal. Brush the crust with the egg wash and sprinkle with the turbinado sugar.

    5. PLACE the pie dish on a baking sheet and bake until the crust is golden and the filling has begun to bubble, about 1 hour. Check the pie after 30 minutes and cover the top and edges with foil if they become too dark.

    6. TRANSFER the baked pie to a wire rack and let it cool for at least 2 hours before serving. A 9-inch pie should provide 10 slices.
      

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    FOOD FUN: Make A Snowman Latte Or Cappuccino

    Snowman Latte

    In a cup of hot coffee, he’s not so frosty (photo courtesy Illy).

     

    There may not be enough snow on the ground to build a snowman, but you can build one atop a cappuccino or latte, with this recipe from Illy.

    This easy-to-make snowman is fun for adults, and can be adapted to hot chocolate for kids.

    Depending on the age of the kids and your disposition to allow them coffee (the kids in our neighborhood seem to live on mocha lattes), a latte is only 1/6 coffee; a cappuccino, 1/3. See details below.
     
     
    RECIPE: SNOWMAN LATTE OR CAPPUCCINO

    Ingredients Per Drink

  • 2 shots espresso
  • Whole milk (both steamed and frothed)
  • Chocolate sauce
  •  
    Equipment

  • Espresso machine
  • Stainless steel milk steaming pitcher
  • Squeeze bottle of chocolate syrup
  • Spoon
  • Toothpick
  •  
    See the step-by-step in this video.
     
     
    CAPPUCCINO & LATTE: THE DIFFERENCE

    Both drinks originated in Italian cafés, but are slightly different, based on the amount of milk.

  • Cappuccino is an espresso-based drink made with 1/3 espresso, 1/3 steamed milk, and 1/3 foamed milk. In sum: 1/3 espresso, 2/3 milk.
  • Food trivia: Cappuccino is named after the color of the hooded robes worn by monks and nuns of the Capuchin order. Cappuccino, referring to the red-brown color of the robes, was a common descriptor in 17th-century Europe. The foamy drink, however, was created in the 20th century.
  • Latte is has even more milk: A basic latte is 2 ounces espresso and 6 ounces steamed milk. For latte art, foamed milk is needed on top, which moves the proportions to 1/6 espresso, 4/6 steamed milk, 1/6 foamed milk.
  •  
     
    THE HISTORY OF LATTE ART

    Latte art was enabled by the development of microfoam, a very velvety foam enabled by the steam wand of a cappuccino machine. The wand foams the milk in a stainless-steel pitcher; the pitcher pours the foam onto the top of the coffee.

    The combination of the natural crema atop the cup of espresso and velvety microfoam allows patterns to be made. (Note that other types of milk steamers/foamers do not create microfoam.)

    Latte art in the United States developed in the Seattle coffee culture of the 1980s and 1990s. By 1989 the heart pattern was a signature at David Schomer’s Espresso Vivace and the rosette pattern followed, based on a photograph Schomer saw of latte art in an Italian café.

    Here’s the history of espresso, which originated at the end of the 19th century.
     
     

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Red & Green Holiday Cocktail Garnishes

    You can create special holiday cocktails with seasonal ingredients—cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg, peppermint.

    But you can add a touch of red and green to Martinis and Margaritas as well.

    Here, some suggestions to get you thinking about holiday cocktail garnishes.
     
     
    OPENING THOUGHTS

    If you want a red and green motif, cruise the aisles of the produce section, or start with these lists.

    We don’t like to use raw cranberries. They just become detritus in the glass: No one eats them. (Some people enjoy chewing on citrus peel and mint leaves and other herbs, so we give them a pass.)

    It’s the same with cinnamon sticks: They make a great impression, but they’re expensive and just end up in the trash.

    Instead, use the lists below to create pleasing combinations (see photo #5 for an easy favorite).
     
     
    FRUIT GARNISHES:

    RED FRUIT GARNISHES

    Our favorites:

  • Pomegranate arils (photos #1 and #3)
  • Raspberries
  • Red figs (photo #2)
  • Red grapefruit
  • Red grapes
  • Strawberries
  •  
    Starfruit, which is yellow and provides perfect star slices, is a natural holiday garnish (photo #4).

    Other options, like red apples and pears, are more white than red; blood orange, unless you segment it, contributes its orange peel.

    Watermelon, although it can be cut into stars, simply isn’t seasonal.

    You can add dried cranberries to a clear drink.
    Pick bite (a snack bite on a cocktail pick): alternating red and green grapes.
     
     
    GREEN FRUIT GARNISHES

  • Avocado
  • Green figs
  • Green grapes
  • Kiwi
  • Lime
  •  
    Not great: green apples (too much white), honeydew (too light, not seasonal).

     
     
    VEGETABLE GARNISHES:

    RED VEGETABLE GARNISHES

  • Beets
  • Bell peppers
  • Cherry or grape tomatoes
  • Radicchio
  • Radishes
  •  
    Now, on to the veggies.
     
     
    GREEN VEGETABLE GARNISHES

    Sure, you can use green olives; but how about a sugar snap pea in your Martini instead?

    Savory cocktails can be dressed up with:

  • Arugula
  • Asparagus
  • Bell pepper
  • Broccoli rabe
  • Green beans
  • Herbs: basil, mint, and we have to give the thumbs up to rosemary and thyme sprigs
  • Pickled vegetables: asparagus, bell pepper, cucumber (i.e., pickles) green beans
  • Scallions
  • Snow peas
  • Sugar snap peas
  • Watercress.
  •  
    Too pale green: celery, cucumber, endive, zucchini.
     
    Pick snack: For a fancy bite, make a pick of cherry tomatoes, ciliegine (bite-size mozzarella balls) and a bit of basil.
     
     
    BEYOND FRUITS & VEGETABLES

    Glass Rimmers

    Check out, from yesterday’s tip: colored sugar and salt glass rimmers (photo #3).

    Mini Candy Canes

    If they work with the drink, mini candy canes are a fun touch.

    Drinking Straws

    Instead of a garnish, or in addition to it, consider red-and-white striped straws. They add a “candy cane” touch. You can alternate with green and white versions.
     
     
    MORE IDEAS

    Also see these articles on cocktail garnishes:

  • Making Cocktail Glass Rimmers
  • New Cocktail Garnishes
  • More Christmas Cocktail Garnishes
  •   Pomegranate Arils Cocktail Garnish
    [1] Festive fruits: pomegranate arils on a lime slice with mint (photo courtesy Entertaining.About.com).

    Fig Cocktail Garnish
    [2] Elegant garnishing for a Martini or other light-colored drink (photo courtesy Style Me Pretty).

    Pomegranate Arils Cocktail Garnish
    [3] Another option for pomegranate arils: on the bottom of the glass (photo courtesy Trendhunter).

    Starfruit Cocktail Garnish
    [4] The perfect holiday cocktail garnish: a slice of starfruit (carambola,
    photo courtesy STKLA).

    Red & Green Cocktail Garnish
    [5] Another elegant cocktail garnish: spear a raspberry with a sprig of rosemary or thyme (photo courtesy ).

    Candy Cane Martini
    [6] With the right flavor of cocktail, a mini candy cane is fun (here’s the recipe from Mantitlement).

     

      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: It’s Easy To Make Cocktail Glass Rimmers

    Mezcal Cocktail With Black Lava Salt
    [1] A mezcal cocktail rimmed with a deep half rim, a blend of chipotle and black lava salt (at Olmsted | Brooklyn).

    Cocktail Rim Half Salt Half Tajin
    [2] A full rim covering just the top of the glass, with two different seasonings: half salt, half Tajin (at Alma Cocina Latina | Baltimore).

    Thai Margarita Hibiscus Rim
    [3] A Thai Margarita rimmed with a blend of black lava salt and hibiscus leaves (at Miro Kitchen | Fairfield, Connecticut).

    Chocolate Shell Glass Rim
    [4] A Magic Shell rim (at Gordon Ramsay Group).

    Celery Salt Rim Bloody Mary
    [5] A celery salt rim on a Bloody Mary (at Pompeian | Facebook) A current favorite is Tajin seasoning.

    Stirrings Cocktail Rimmer
    [6] A tin of Lemon Drop cocktail rimmer (photo © The Party Source).

     

    Make your cocktails more interesting with cocktail glass rimmers. The original cocktail glass rimmer, as far as we know, was the coarse salt on a Margarita glass in 1948. According to Margarita history, it was created in 1948, adapting a long-standing Mexican tradition of a shot of tequila served with a lime wedge and salt.

    With the Margarita, the salt rim was visually appealing and added flavor to the drink. Maybe—we can’t find data to substantiate—someone put celery salt on a Bloody Mary rim (photo #5); but the practice was not widespread.

    Why it took so long for other glass rims to emerge is anyone’s guess. But some 15 years ago, we first noticed a product called a glass rimmer at the annual specialty food show.

    The pioneers were Stirrings and Nantucket Offshore, manufacturers of premium cocktail ingredients. Others followed (you can see them on Amazon.com).

    Shallow round tins (photo #6) contained different savory or sweet blends for popular drinks: Bloody Mary, Cosmopolitan, Lemon Drop, and so on.

    The rim of the cocktail glass was moistened and twisted in the tin to coat it. Non-cocktail rimmers for hot chocolate and other drinks followed.

    Bartenders noticed; and over the years, creative mixologists proceeded to elevate glass rimmers into an art—owing largely to the accessibility of unusual ingredients, from black lava salt to hibiscus leaves.

    The rim can be as minimal or deep as the mixologist desires (compare photos #1, #2, and #3).

    The most recent evolution is half- or three-quarter rims, which give the drinker the option to partake of the rim seasoning or not.

    March 24th is National Cocktail Day.
     
     
    MIX AND MATCH RIMS

    As you peruse the lists below, consider combining ingredients; for example:

  • Chile powder and lemon zest
  • Chopped nuts and shaved chocolate
  • Cocoa powder and chile powder
  • Cracked pepper and thyme
  • Lemon zest and sparkling sugar
  •  
    You can make the rims seasonal—for example, orange zest and black lava salt for Halloween, and crushed candy canes for the holidays.

    The variations are endless, and give you the creativity to layer the flavors you want.
     
     
    SAVORY COCKTAIL RIMS

  • Celery salt
  • Cracked or ground pepper
  • Crushed dried chiles: cayenne, chipotle, jalapeño, red pepper flakes
  • Dried herb blends: thyme, oregano, sage
  • Flower petals, dried hibiscus leaves
  • Pink or green peppercorns
  • Seasoned salts, Tajin
  • Specialty salts: black lava salt, pink salt, red lava salt, smoked salt, wasabi salt
  • Spices: Asian blend, chili powder, cumin, herbes de provence, Italian blend, oregano, powdered cloves, thyme, etc.
  •  
     
    SWEET COCKTAIL RIMS

  • Chocolate shell
  • Citrus zest
  • Chopped nuts
  • Cocoa powder, cocoa drink mix
  • Cookie crumbs
  • Crushed hard candies—butterscotch, peppermint, etc.
  • Edible glitter
  • Ground coffee beans
  • Mini chocolate chips
  • Sugar: coarse sugar (decorator’s sugar, sanding sugar), white, colored, sparkling; cinnamon sugar; powdered sugar
  • Shaved chocolate, chocolate sprinkles
  • Shredded coconut
  • Spices: cinnamon sugar, gingerbread spice, pumpkin pie spice
  •  
     
    NON-ALCOHOLIC DRINKS

    You can use rims on other drinks, for example:

  • Shredded coconut on a cup of hot chocolate
  • Cookie crumbs on a glass of milk
  • Cinnamon sugar on a glass of iced coffee
  • Herbs, seasoned salts or zest on vegetable juice
  •  
     
    HOW TO ADHERE THE RIM

    Beyond the original adherent—water—mixologists now add another layer of flavor using flavorful adherents.

    Orange juice, lemon juice, or other juice (apple, mango, pomegranate, vegetable, you name it) can substitute for water.

     

    For sweet cocktails, the rim can be affixed with honey, maple syrup, or simple syrup (sugar syrup), among other syrups.

    For dessert cocktails, you can use caramel or chocolate sauce, even marshmallow cream (we’ve enjoyed a particularly calorie-packed Piña Colada with a rim of marshmallow cream and toasted coconut).

    The next time you pour a cocktail at home, first add a rim. Put the adherent liquid in a shallow bowl, and the rimming ingredient (herbs, sugar, etc.) on a saucer.

    Dip the glass into the liquid about 1/4 inch deep (or however deep you want the rim).

    Then, just place the glass on the dish with the ingredients, and twist to coat.

    You’re now an expert rimmer of drinks!
     
     

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