THE NIBBLE BLOG: Products, Recipes & Trends In Specialty Foods


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TIP OF THE DAY: Brie For Dessert

Here’s an idea for Mother’s Day for moms who don’t want cake or other sugary dessert: Brie.

Brie and its cheese brothers are known as bloomy-rind, soft-ripened or surface-ripened (i.e., ripened from the outside) cheeses. These terms refer to their their downy, edible white rind.

The cheesemaker creates the rind by adding a powdered form of mold (Penicillium candidum, Penicillium camemberti), yeast, and/or a yeast-like fungus, Geotrichum candidum.

These microorganisms bloom on the exterior of the ripening cheeses, ultimately forming the rind. They break down the fats and proteins of a cheese, creating the creamy texture. The result: lush, creamy, unctuous cheese delight.

The longer the cheese ages, the runnier it gets. Cheese Trivia: An older cheese will develop an extra creamy, custardy layer just under the rind, which is called the creamline. It’s an extra layer of texture and flavor.

Can you eat the bloomy rind? Any serious cheese lover will: It’s delicious!
 
BRIE, CAMEMBERT & THEIR RELATIVES

It’s easy to confuse Brie and Camembert. They are similar recipes, made in different parts of France with different terroirs. They are different sizes. Here’s the difference.

Some other bloomy rind cheeses found in the U.S., both domestic and French, include:

  • Brillat Savarin (France)
  • Chaource (France)
  • Cotton Bell (North Carolina)
  • Coulommiers (France)
  • Devil’s Gulch (California)
  • Fromager d’Affinois (France)
  • Humboldt Fog (California)
  • Moses Sleeper (Vermont)
  • Mt. Tam (California)
  • Pierre Robert (France)
  • St. Andre (France)
  • St. Agur (France)
  •  
    However, the French cheeses are made in larger wheels and sold in wedges rather than in smaller rounds. Go for the American varieties; and if you need advice, don’t hesitate to ask your cheesemonger.

    To bake or not to bake? In the warm weather, there’s no reason to bake a Brie—especially when it’s going to be sliced for individual portions.
     
    CHEESE GARNISHES

    You can use all of these as a top garnish (photo #2), or serve some on the side (photo #1).

  • Caramel sauce or fruit purée
  • Chocolate bar or bark pieces (dark is better)
  • Honey or maple syrup
  • Berries
  • Figs
  • Nuts
  • Orange zest
  • Preserves (especially fig or quince) or chutney
  • Sweet herbs*
  •  
    For a savory touch, add some olives. Red cerignola olives are especially nice for the occasion.
     
    BREADS & CRACKERS

    Instead of baguette slices and water biscuits, go for flavorful choices such as:

  • Artisan graham crackers
  • Fruit and/or nut crackers (see Raincoast Crisps)
  • Fruit and/or nut bread
  • Ginger snaps
  • La Panzanella Croccantini
  • Oatmeal or wheatmeal biscuits
  •  

    Brie Cheese Board
    [1] You can top the cheese with one fruit and let guests select from other accompaniments (photo courtesy The Almond Eater).

    Brie Dessert
    [2] Bring the cheese to the table cut into slices, for easy serving (photo courtesy Baldor Specialty Foods).

    Cranberry Pecan Brie
    [3] For fall, consider chopped nuts and dried fruits. Orange zest is a nice added touch. You can also top the cheese with chunky cranberry sauce or chutney (photo courtesy Damn Delicious).

    Brie With Compote Topping
    [4] You can top the cheese with homemade compote. Here’s a ginger-pear compote recipe from Eat Wisconsin Cheese, and our guidelines for making fruit compote.

     
    WHAT ABOUT SALAD?

    Some people enjoy a cheese course instead of a sweet dessert; and some like it with a bit of salad.

    Mesclun (mixed baby greens) with a light toss of vinaigrette is the way to go here. To avoid an acid clash with the sweet complements to the cheese, we make a balsamic vinaigrette.
     
     
    WINE PAIRINGS WITH BLOOMY RIND CHEESES

    White wines and rosés pair better with bloomy rinds than red wines. Fruity whites are better than dry whites. We like a good Pinto Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc.

    Champagne or other dry sparkling wines (Cava, Crémant, Prosecco, etc.) add a festive flair, as do sweet sparklers such as Asti Spumanti, Brachetto d’Acqui (a rosé), or a dry Prosecco (in wine terminology, “dry” means sweeter).

    ________________

    *Sweet herbs include chamomile, lavender, lemon verbena, licorice, mint, rose geranium and tarragon.
      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Try A Feijoa

    Feijoa
    Feijoa, a native of South America now grown in other subtropical climates (photo courtesy Baldor Specialty Foods).
     

    The feijoa (FEE-joe-ah)is an egg-shaped fruit with a thin, lime-green skin.

    The fruit originated in the highlands of southern Brazil, parts of Colombia, Uruguay, Paraguay and northern Argentina. Today it is grown around the world in semi-tropical climates. New Zealand is a large grower.

    While not well known in the U.S., its flavor calls up better-known fruits.

    Feijoa is sometimes called the pineapple guava (guava is a brother*). Other nicknames include Brazilian guava, fig guava and guavasteen.

  • The juicy flesh inside is cream-colored and encases a jelly-like center.
  • It tastes like a combination guava and pineapple. Sometimes, you’ll get a hint of strawberry.
  • The texture is close to that of a pear.
  • The aroma is fragrant and complex: guava with notes of quince, pineapple, apple and mint.
  •  
    Although the skin is edible, the fruit usually is eaten by cutting it in half, then scooping out the pulp with a spoon, like a kiwi. No spoon? Cut off an end with a knife, or take a bite to expose the flesh and squeeze the pulp into your mouth.

    In recipes beyond fruit salad and stewed fruit, feijoa is as versatile as most fruits. In New Zealand, they are:

  • Tossed into smoothies and made into fruit drinks.
  • Made into chutney and preserves.
  • Made into yogurt and ice cream.
  • Made into cider, wine and feijoa-infused vodka.
  •  
    Since the fruit is the same shade of green when immature and ripe, you need to give it a soft squeeze. A ripe feijoa yields to pressure like a just-ripe banana.

    Fruits are at optimum maturity when the seed pulp has turned into a clear jelly, with no hint of browning. Once the seed pulp and surrounding flesh begin to brown, the fruit is overripe.

    Overripe fruit can of course be eaten, juiced, or turned into jam or compote [source].

    Have fun with it!
    ________________

    *Both feijoa and guava are members have the same phylogeny, all the way down to the Family level. The phylogeny is Kingdom Plantae, Clade Angiosperms, Clade Eudicots, Clade Rosids, Order Myrtales, Family Myrtaceae. They then split into different genuses. The genus and species for feijoa is Acca sellowiana. For guava, it is Psidium guajava.
      

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    Types Of Custard: Creme Brulee, Creme Caramel, Pot de Creme

    May 5th is Cinco de Mayo. This year, it’s also the Kentucky Derby and National Hoagie Day. What’s a holiday-focused food writer to do?

    We can recommend that you use the Holidays & Occasions pull-down menu at the right and peruse the content for both holidays. But we’re going to focus on custard.

    Why custard? Well, May 5th is National Chocolate Custard Day (photo #5).

    As we were served a panna cotta dessert (photo #1) yesterday, we thought of how it has replaced a richer custard, crème brûlée, on restaurant menus; and how decades earlier, crème brûlée replaced plain baked custard, scented with nutmeg or cinnamon.

    Every culinary student studies the three classic French baked custards: crème brûlée (photo #2), crème caramel (photo #3), and pot de crème. All three are made of eggs, milk and/or cream, and sugar, in different proportions, along with a flavoring such as vanilla.

  • Crème brûlée is made of all heavy cream and egg yolks and is topped with a brittle layer of caramelized sugar (brûlée is French for burnt, crème brûlée means “burnt custard”)
  • Crème caramel (called flan in Spanish) is the lightest of the three, made with whole eggs and a blend of milk and cream.
  • Pot de crème is made from equal parts of cream and milk and an extensive amount of egg yolks—e.g., 6 yolks per 2 cups of cream/milk, which make it a softer custard.
  •  
    Our mother made that classic baked custard scented with nutmeg. It was so rich and eggy—even though she used milk instead of cream. We hesitate to bake it today because you can’t bake just one or two ramekins—and we have no restraint.
     
     
    TYPES OF CUSTARD

    There are more than 50 additional custard dishes and terms in our Custard Glossary, one of 100 NIBBLE glossaries that give you a great understanding of each category of food.

    See the difference between custard and pudding below.
     
     
    THE HISTORY OF CUSTARD

    Custard as we know it dates back to the Middle Ages when it was used as a filling for a flan or a tart.

    The word custard is derived from “crustade,” a tart with a crust. A popular tart filling was what we came to call custard.

    After the 16th century, fruit creams became popular, and it was about this time that custards began to be made in individual dishes or bowls rather than as fillings for a crust.

    Yet, as things move the full circle, today custard is used to fill tarts, Danish pastry, cream puffs, and éclairs. It is mixed into trifles and turned into savory sides, like mushroom custards.

    It is turned into desserts like Bavarian creams, bread puddings, charlottes and Floating Island.

    Mousse is a custard whipped into an airy froth.

    Custards are prepared in two ways: stirred or cooked on top of the stove, or baked in the oven.

    Stirred custards (also called crème anglaise, custard sauce, and soft custard) are cooked over low heat or in a double boiler to a thickened yet fluid consistency.

    The custard is then refrigerated where it will continue to thicken. The repeated stirring prevents the custard from firming up. Instead, stirred custards are used as fillings, sauces, or ice cream bases.
     
     
    THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CUSTARD & PUDDING

    What Americans call pudding is a creamy, sweetened milk mixture thickened with cornstarch, then cooked.

    These are found mostly in the form of chocolate pudding, vanilla pudding, butterscotch pudding, and lemon pudding. They do double duty as pie fillings.

    When a recipe is exceptionally smooth and light, it is often called silk pudding.

    American puddings contain no eggs. In the U.K. and Europe, they are known as blancmange.

    In the U.K. “pudding” refers to any dessert. It also refers to sweet, cake-like baked, steamed and boiled puddings, usually made in a mold.

    Savory puddings, such as corn pudding, are so-called because they contain milk and eggs, which thicken the mix; and savory “puddings” can be custards (we won’t go into the details at the moment).

    Other foods that are called pudding include black pudding or blood pudding (which is a sausage) and Yorkshire pudding (baked batter, served as a side).

    By the way, August 17th is National Vanilla Custard Day. June 26th is National Chocolate Pudding Day.

    Custard and pudding tips to follow!

     

    Panna Cotta
    [1] Panna cotta (photo © Davio’s | Boston).

    Creme Brulee
    [2] Crème Brûlée (photo © David Venable | QVC).

    Creme Caramel
    [3] Crème caramel (photo © Suvir Saran).

    Raspberry Pot de Creme
    [4] Raspberry pot de crème. Here’s the recipe from Driscoll’s (photo © Driscoll’s).

    Chocolate Pot De Creme
    [5] For National Chocolate Custard Day, make this pot de crème. Here’s the recipe (photo © Martha Stewart).

     
     
     

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    FOOD FUN: May The Fourth Be With You

    Princess Leia Cookies
    [1] Turn milk and cookies into Princess Leia for Star Wars Day (photo courtesy Bourbon House | NOLA).

    Mallomars Box
    [2] The current and original Mallomars packages (photo courtesy NPR.org).

    Homemade Mallomars
    [3] Bake your own Mallomars with this recipe from Saveur.

      Star Wars Day, May 4th, celebrates George Lucas’ Star Wars films. (“May the forth be with you”—get it?)

    Treat yourself to milk and cookies, Princess Leia-style.

    You’ll need soft cookies to adhere to the rim of the glass. We used Mallomars (photo #2). They’re probably sold out by now (the season ends in April), but like all Mallomars fans, we keep extra boxes on hand until they reappear in stores in the fall.

    Or, bake your own with the recipe below.

    Or, bake any chocolate cookie (to evoke Princess Leia’s brunette hair buns) and notch them while they’re still warm.
     
     
    MALLOMARS HISTORY

    Nabisco’s Mallomars are a very popular cookie in Metropolitan New York City, the original home of Nabisco.

    A graham cracker circle is topped with marshmallow, then coated with a dark chocolate. The result is a puffy, sink-your-teeth-in delight.

    The cookies were introduced in 1913, the same year as the southern Moon Pie—a cookie which has similar ingredients, but a different flavor. According to Wikipedia, the first box of Mallomars was sold in West Hoboken, New Jersey (now Union City).

    They are sold only from October through through April, following a tradition that began of necessity, before refrigerated trucks.

  • Eighty-five percent of all Mallomars are sold in the New York metropolitan area.
  • The cookies are produced at a factory in Scarborough, Ontario, Canada.
  •  
    The concept spread. In the U.K., chef Boyd Tunnock created Tunnock’s Teacakes in 1956, using Italian meringue on a biscuit (cookie) base, covered with milk chocolate.
    They look like Mallomars’ fraternal twin.

    See the chocolate-marshmallow cookie variations in different countries.
     
     
    HOMEMADE MALLOMARS RECIPE

    Want to make your own? Here’s a recipe from Saveur (photo #3).

     

      

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    GIFTS: Asobu Cold Brewer & Drinkmate Spritzer

    Looking for Mother’s Day gifts? Want to get the jump on Father’s Day? Want to treat yourself?

    Here are two kitchen items that got our attention—and given how many products we see each year, that’s hard to do!
     
     
    ASOBU COLDBREW INSULATED PORTABLE BREWER

    For lovers of cold brew coffee, this beauty from Asobu very efficient.

    It brews your coffee into an insulated thermos, so you can keep cold brewed coffee with you all day, anywhere. Or, you can pour a cup and give it a quick zap in the microwave.

    Just add coarse coffee grounds and cold water to the mesh cone and let it slowly drip. The resulting coffee is what you’ve come to expect from cold brew. Remove the top portion, add the leak-proof lid, and you’re ready to go—or stay.

    The brewing carafe top is clear Tritan, an extremely durable BPA-free plastic that is used in the finest water bottles and food containers.

    There are four color choices:

  • Black/Black
  • Copper/Black
  • Silver/Black
  • White/White
  •  
    The brewer is $50.00. You can buy it online at AsobuBottle.com.
     
     
    DRINKMATE SPRITZER

    What will you sparkle next? asks the box of the Drinkmate Spritzer.

    Unlike devices that carbonate water only, Drinkmate lets you carbonate anything, anywhere.

    It’s a fun device for lovers of sparkling beverages.

    The easily-portable system consists of a DrinkMate Spritzer gun, a BPA-free half-liter reusable carbonating bottle and two CO2 carbonator cylinders (for a total of 32 bottles of sparkling beverages).

    Easy to operate, easy to clean, no electricity or batteries are used.

    What can you carbonate? Any liquid. Water, of course, but also unleash your creative mixologist with:

  • Cocktails
  • Juice
  • Soda
  • Tea
  • Wine
  •  
    You can also re-carbonate sparkling wine or beer that has gone flat.

    The kit is $90 at Home Depot and other e-tailers/retailers, in black, red or silver.

      Asobo Cold Brewer
    [1] Asobu Coldbrew, in four elegant colors (photo courtesy Kettle And Cord).

    Drinkmate Spritzer
    [2] Drinkmate Spritzer turns almost any liquid into a carbonated beverage (photos #2 and #3 courtesy Drinkmate).

    Drinkmate Spritzer
    [3] The Drinkmate kit.

     
      

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