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FOOD 101: Ways To Preserve Food

Ancient Food Preservation
[1] Drying meat or fish over a fire (image courtesy Kitchen Of The Future).

Drying Squash
[2] Drying squash (photo courtesy China Daily).

Drying Ducks
[3] Drying ducks; the same technique is used for air-dried hams (photo courtesy China Daily).

Drying Fruits
[5] Drying fruits (photo courtesy Brainview).

Sundried Tomatoes
[4] Sundried tomatoes are preserved today as they were thousands of years ago (photo courtesy Bella Sun Luci).

 

In modern times, businesses and homes use refrigeration and freezing to preserve food. We buy canned, freeze-dried and otherwise shelf-stable (no refrigeration required) foods.

In the millennia before the invention of canning and the mechanical ice box, people kept food cold with ice and snow, saved during the winter months or brought down from mountaintops. Insulated metal “ice boxes” were available in the 1880s, with blocks of ice delivered by the “ice man.” The home electric refrigerator didn’t arrive until 1930.

In ancient times, the wealthy could afford to have ice cut from lakes and rivers in the winter, or brought down from the mountaintops in warmer countries, and stored in ice houses for summer use. The oldest known ice house, built by a king in Persia, dates from about 1700 B.C.E. Most other people dug ice pits, lined with straw and sawdust as insulation.

At the dawn of mankind, people had to learn to preserve food for lean times. Food, whether animal or vegetable, begins to spoil as soon as it is killed or taken from roots, trees or vines. So man had to figure out how to preserve the portion of it that wasn’t needed immediately.

In hot climates, man dried meat, fish, fruit and vegetables in the sun, removing the moisture that leads to spoilage. In cold climates, he kept food frozen in the ice or packed under snow.

Other techniques evolved, enabling not only preservation, but a variety of different flavors that have become part of our culinary repertoire.
 
 
PRESERVING FOOD ENABLED “CIVILIZATION”

Beyond drying and freezing, other forms of food preservation enabled the formation of communities. Man no longer had to be a hunter-gatherer, consuming what was killed or harvested immediately, but could preserve some of the bounty for later use.

Preservation techniques were especially needed when man settled down in agricultural communities, around 9500 B.C.E. Food preservation enabled ancient man to set down roots and form a community.

We still use the techniques that our early ancestors developed. Here they are, in alphabetical order.

Thanks to the National Center for Home Food Preservation for much of this information.
 
 
TYPES OF FOOD PRESERVATION

Canning & Freeze-Drying

While first alphabetically, canning is one of the newest forms of preservation, developed in France in the 1790s. It uses heat, originally to seal food in glass bottles, inspired by wine in bottles. Based on the success, in 1810 an Englishman applied the concept to tin cans—lighter in weight and not breakable (the history of canning). The next modern technique was freeze drying (see below).

Curing

Early cultures used salt to help remove the moisture from foods (called desiccation) which prevents the growth of microorganisms. Salting was the common technique to preserve fish and meats, followed by brining (salted water).

Drying & Smoking

Ancient man harnessed the sun and wind to dry meat, fish, fruits and vegetables, with archaeological evidence showing the process used as early as 12,000 B.C.E. Areas that lacked strong sunlight for drying dried and smoked food over a fire.

Honey & Sugar

Preservation of fruits in honey or sugar was commonplace in the earliest cultures. The Romans improved on the method by cooking the quince and honey producing a solid texture—the first jams and preserves. In southeast Asia, where sugar originated, in northern climates that lacked enough sunlight to successfully dry fruits, heating fruit with sugar produced what we know know as preserves and chutneys.

Fermenting

Evidence from around 5400 B.C.E. indicates that man discovered how to ferment grains into beer. But the process may be much older: It is believed that one of the impetuses for Neolithic hunter-gatherers to settle down to farming was to grow barley to make beer, around 10,000 B.C.E. Grapes and other fruits followed, creating wine. The technique was used to preserve vegetables, turning cabbage into kimchi and sauerkraut, and other pickled vegetables. Fermentation creates more nutritious foods: the microorganisms involved produce vitamins as they ferment. The technique turned less palatable foods into more palatable ones.

Freezing & Freeze Drying

Any ancient civilization that had freezing temperatures for at least part of the year used the freezing temperatures to preserve foods, digging holes in the ice or compacting snow over the stash. The use of natural caves for cold storage turned into root cellars and ice houses. Jars and other containers were also placed in cool streams for preservation. In the late 1800s, Clarence Birdseye, who observed Native Americans freezing fish in the ice, perfected the “quick freeze” process. Freeze drying was invented around 1890 for commercial use. But it not brought into consumer consciousness until freeze-dried coffee and NASA’s freeze-dried “astronaut ice cream,” in the 1960s.

Pickling

Pickling is the preservation of food in vinegar or other acid. Vinegar was first created accidentally thousands of years ago, when wine fermented for too long. Evidence of pickled cucumbers dates to around 4,500 years ago in Mesopotamia. Wine, beer and cider can all transformed into vinegar. Foods from olives to fish were brined in a solution of vinegar and water. The ancestor of our popular condiment, ketchup, was an oriental fish brine.

 
Today, some Americans can, cure, dry, ferment and pickle foods at home; not because they have to, but because they take pride in making their own foods.
  

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RECIPE: Toffee With Pumpkin Seeds

You may be all set for Halloween, but think ahead to the Thanksgiving crush: hostess gifts, party favors, little extras for your colleagues or friends.

We like this seasonal recipe by Kirstin Jackson of It’s Not You, It’s Brie. It was shared with us by Go Bold With Butter.

In this recipe, shelled and salted pepitas (pumpkin seeds) and bits of rosemary are encased in the toffee: a sophisticated rendition of the sweet treat.

THE NIBBLE is a fan of SuperSeedz, gourmet pumpkin seeds, shelled and flavored.

Among the nine flavors, these flavors pair especially well with toffee: Cinnamon & Sugar, Coco Joe, Maple Sugar & Sea Salt, Sea Salt and Super Spicy. Learn more and
get them here.
 
 
RECIPE: PUMPKIN SEED & ROSEMARY TOFFEE

Advises Kirstin: “Read through the recipe, have all ingredients, utensils, and candy thermometer ready to go. You’ll be surprised how quickly you’ll need them once things get bubbling.”

Ingredients

  • 1½ cup salted pepitas, divided
  • 1 stick (1/2 cup), plus 1 teaspoon unsalted butter
  • Additional 1 tablespoon butter for greasing pan
  • 1-3/4 cup white sugar
  • 3 tablespoons water
  • 1 teaspoon molasses
  • 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary
  •  
    Preparation

    1. LINE a sheet pan with a silicone baking mat or parchment paper greased with 1 tablespoon butter. Scatter 2/3 of the pepitas over the bottom of the pan.

    2. PLACE the butter, sugar, water and molasses in a heavy bottomed, medium-sized saucepan and turn heat to medium. Being careful not to over-stir—so the candy won’t form large sugar crystals—stir occasionally to combine the mixture, once the butter melts. Bring to 295°F on a candy thermometer. Once the caramel hits 295°F…

    3. IMMEDIATELY ADD the baking soda, vanilla and chopped rosemary and stir very quickly to thoroughly combine. Next, very quickly pour the caramel over the pepitas on the sheet pan. Use an offset spatula greased with the remaining 1 teaspoon butter to quickly spread the toffee over the seeds. Once cool enough to touch…

    4. POUR the remaining pepitas over the toffee and press them into the candy’s surface. Let cool, then break apart before serving.

      Pumpkin Seed Toffee
    [1] Toffee with pumpkin seeds and rosemary (photo courtesy Kirstin Jackson | It’s Not You, It’s Brie).

    Superseedz
    [2] A trio of Superseedz flavors (photo courtesy Superseedz).

    Pumpkin Seeds
    [3] Pepitas (photo Fun With Foods | IST).

     
    THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PUMPKIN SEEDS & PEPITAS

    “Pepitas” means “little seeds of squash” in Spanish. Pepitas and pumpkin seeds are almost the same thing.

    The difference is that pepitas grow shell-less in particular pumpkin and squash varieties.

    Both are very nutritious, containing omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, fiber, and a variety of antioxidants. Here are 11 health benefits of pumpkin seeds.

     

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    RECIPE: Maple Pound Cake

    Maple Pound Cake
    [1] Making this pound cake in a bundt pan provides eye appeal (photo courtesy King Arthur Flour).


    [2] Always buy pure maple syrup. The “pancake syrup” sold in grocery stores is corn syrup with artificial maple flavoring. Here’s an explanation of the differences (photo Miguel Andrade | Wikipedia).

     

    While maple-flavored foods can be served year-round, they have fallen into the fourth-quarter slot, a time period that highlights everything made with maple and pumpkin.

    Going with the tradition, we decided to feature this maple pound cake for fall. If we had featured it in July, would you have been interested?

    This pound cake can be dressed up for dessert. We like creme anglaise as a dessert sauce (recipe), or a scoop of vanilla or maple walnut ice cream.

    Most often we enjoy it plain, as a snack or a brunch cake.

    Prep time is 25 minutes, bake time is 45 to 50 minutes.
     
     
    RECIPE: MAPLE POUND CAKE

    Ingredients For The Cake

  • 2 cups unbleached cake flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 3/4 cup (12 tablespoons) unsalted butter, softened
  • 2/3 cup light brown sugar, packed
  • 2 large eggs
  • 1/2 cup maple syrup
  • 1 cup sour cream
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1/4 teaspoon maple flavor; optional, for enhanced maple flavor
  •  
    For The Glaze

  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1/4 cup maple syrup
  • 1/4 cup dark rum or water
  •  
    Preparation

    1. PREHEAT the oven to 350°F. Lightly grease a 9- or 10-cup bundt-style pan.

    2. COMBINE the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a medium bowl.

    3. BEAT together the butter and brown sugar in a separate bowl, until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, beating for a minute or two and scraping the sides and bottom of the bowl between additions. Mix in the maple syrup.

    4. ADD half the flour mixture, followed by the sour cream, vanilla and maple flavor, and finally the remaining flour mixture. Mix until just combined, scraping the sides and bottom of the bowl between each addition.

     
    5. SCOOP the batter into the prepared pan and bake for 45 to 50 minutes, until a cake tester or toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Allow the cake to cool for 10 minutes in the pan, then turn it out onto a serving plate. While the cake is cooling…

    6. MAKE the glaze. Combine the ingredients in a medium saucepan. Bring the glaze to a rapid boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for about 5 to 8 minutes, until it thickens to a syrupy consistency. Remove the pan from the heat.

    7. BRUSH the hot glaze over the warm cake. Allow the cake to cool completely before serving.

    8. STORE unsliced at room temperature for several days; freeze for longer storage.
     
     
    MAPLE SYRUP HISTORY

    Maple trees are indigenous to the U.S. In cold climates, the trees store starch in their trunks and roots before winter; the starch is then converted to a form of sugar, that rises in the sap in late winter and early spring.

    Early Native Americans, like the Algonquians of the Northeast, discovered the sweet sap inside maple trees, and processed it into syrup.

    At the beginning of the spring thaw, they made V-shaped incisions in tree trunks using stone tools, and inserted reeds or concave pieces of bark to run the sap into buckets.

    The first stage of concentrating the sap was by dropping hot cooking stones into the buckets to remove some of the water, or by leaving them outside overnight and removing the layer of ice that formed on top. Sugar bushes—stands in the forest—provided working spaces.

    Over time, processing improvements were developed. By the time European settlers arrived, the technique was to boil the sap over an open fire for a long time, until it concentrated into syrup.

    The Native Americans taught the Europeans how to make the syrup. The settlers improved the process by using augers to drill tapholes in the trunks, and by making wooden spouts to drain the sap into buckets.

    During the 17th and 18th centuries, Europeans used the maple syrup as a source of sugar, in both liquid and crystallized forms. It was local and free for the making, while cane sugar had to be imported from the West Indies.

    Today, maple syrup harvesters use plastic tubing (photo) to transfer the sap from the tree to the sugar shack, the building where it’s boiled into syrup.

    Here’s more on the production of maple syrup.

      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: The New Deviled Egg Isn’t Deviled

    We love this idea from food photographer and creative cook Melina Hammer, via Handsome Brook Farm.

    Handsome Brook Farm is a pioneer in organic pasture-raised eggs, with distribution on the East Coast. We can assure you that in blind tastes tests two years apart, organic eggs were the clear winner over other eggs.

    Which brings us back to Melina Hammer’s inspiration for today’s tip. When we saw her egg garnishes (photo #1), we said: Wow, what a better idea than deviled eggs. Who needs mayo calories when you can add flavor like this?

    For holiday entertaining, summer picnics, anytime: Exercise your creative egg garnishing skills.
     
     
    35 GARNISHES FOR YOUR EGGS

    While you can use a single garnish, combine them for a visual, textural and taste sensation.

    You’ll have to cut some items to size. Don’t be afraid to slice and dice.

  • Anchovy (photo #2)
  • Avocado Slice/Guacamole
  • Baby Arugula
  • Bacon/Canadian Bacon
  • Bean Dip/Other Dip
  • Capers/Caperberry (photo #3)
  • Caviar: Salmon, Tobiko, Etc. (Affordable Caviars)
  • Chili Paste
  • Chow-Chow, Corn Relish, Pickle Relish
  • Chutney (photo #4)
  • Crème Fraîche or Sour Cream
  • Dijon Mustard/Flavored Dijon (Types Of Mustard)
  • Flaked Canned Tuna Or Salmon
  • Flavored Mayonnaise
  • Gherkins, Thinly Sliced
  • Herbs: Chives, Cilantro, Dill, Parsley
  • Honey/Spicy Honey
  • Hummus
  • Marinated Grape Tomato Half
  • Mesclun, Lightly Dressed
  • Microgreens
  • Minced chives
  • Mostarda
  • Pâté Cube
  • Pesto
  • Pickled Jalapeño
  • Pickled Onions
  • Pickled Mushroom
  • Pico De Gallo Salsa
  • Radishes, Thinly Sliced
  • Roasted Red Pepper Strips
  • Small Shrimp Or Crabmeat
  • Sliced Olives
  • Smoked Salmon
  • Tapenade
  •  
     
    ABOUT THE BOILED EGGS

    Melina calls her 6-minute eggs custard eggs, after the creamy consistency of the centers (photo #1). We like them too.

    Boil a couple and see how you like the consistency.

      Decorated Hard Boiled Eggs
    [1] Garnished hard-boiled eggs from food photographer Melina Hammer.

    Dish Of Anchovies
    [2] Anchovy fillets are a good contrast with the bland eggs. Roll them or cut them to size (photo courtesy Vital Choice).

    Caperberries
    [3] A single caperberry is more weildly than multiple small capers (photo Elvira Kalviste | THE NIBBLE).

    Tomato Chutney
    [4] Tomato chutney. You can use sweet or savory chutney to garnish (photo courtesy Food TV).

     

     

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    TOP PICK OF THE WEEK: Rare Artisan Fruitcakes From Robert Lambert

    White Fruitcake
    [1] Robert Lambert’s artisan fruitcakes are available in dark and white (shown) styles. The candied fruits are made by hand (all photography courtesy Robert Lambert).

    Aged Fruitcake
    Three vintages of Robert Lambert fruitcakes: 2018 at top, 2017 in the center and 2016 at bottom.

     

    Some people cringe at the word “fruitcake.”

    That’s because their experience is limited to mass-produced versions loaded with yucky neon candied fruit.

    If you’ve never had artisan fruitcake, made by loving hands by a gifted baker, treat yourself to one from Robert Lambert, now on sale.

    These are the best fruitcakes you can buy. All of the candied fruit is made by hand. There’s nothing processed or artificial.

    Robert Lambert’s small-batch fruitcakes are made in Marin County, California, using local fruits and rare varieties he painstakingly sources. They sell out quickly, so buy them now, even if you want them as Christmas or Thanksgiving gifts. The fruitcakes don’t go stale.

    In fact, Mr. Lambert sells aged fruitcakes. In addition to purchasing the current 2018 “vintage,” you can also buy 2017 and 2016.

    Aged fruitcake? Yes, fruitcakes including figgy pudding are typically aged for five weeks or longer, so the flavors can meld.

    Then there’s extra-long aging. Mr. Lambert explains:

    “Over time the flavors radiate out from the moisture of the fruits and peels. They intersect and form new flavor compounds. This intensifies the complexity.

    “In the 2-year-old cake (at the bottom of photo #2), that process is complete.”

    As with the 2018 vintage, the aged cakes are available in both dark and white flavors*.

    > Fruitcake toss day is January 3rd.

    > National Fruitcake Day is December 27th.

    > The history of fruitcake is below.
     
     
    SOMETHING NEW FOR THE 2018 SEASON

    Robert Lambert’s 2018 cakes all contain candied shekwasha† peel, a rare Japanese citrus. Tangy and voluptuous, it has a fruity, floral, tropical flavor with notes of lemon and pineapple—“as unique as jasmine or magnolia,” says Lambert, “an unforgettable addition to the symphony of flavors these cakes embrace.”

    Since Mr. Lambert’s artisan products are limited in production, head to the website now to secure yours. At $65, $75 and $85 respectively, based on vintage, they are well worth it.

    We assure you that everything else Mr. Lambert makes is equally delicious. He has the lead for the number of “Top Pick of The Week’ products we’ve recommended.
     
     
    BEVERAGES WITH FRUITCAKE

    Rich, dense fruitcake needs little garnish. Some people use whipped cream, although we prefer a dab of mascarpone or crème fraîche.

    To add some color, we like a piece of candied orange peel; although a few plain, julienned pieces work, too.

    We love a good cup of black tea with our fruitcake, or a spiced tea like Bigelow’s Constant Comment (which is also available in a decaffeinated version and a green tea version).

     
    Port is the wine of choice, but other choices include:

  • Fruity or sweeter beers: cranberry ale, fruit beer and seasonal fruitcake beer, pumpkin ale, and May wine.
  • Sweet oloroso sherry.
  • Madeira, 5 or 10 years old (e.g. Bual).
  • Whiskey aged in sherry casks, like The Macallan.
  •  
     
    A BRIEF HISTORY OF FRUITCAKE

    The earliest known recipe for fruitcake dates to ancient Rome, and included pine nuts, pomegranate seeds and raisins.

    By the Middle Ages, honey, preserved fruits and spices had been added and the cake was enjoyed throughout Europe. Recipes varied widely by region, incorporating local ingredients.

    In the 16th century, sugar from the Caribbean—and the discovery that sugar could be used to preserve fruits—made fruitcakes more affordable and popular. Wedding cakes were often fruitcakes.

    Everything was delicious for a few centuries.

    But the industrial production of prepared foods that followed World War II led to low-priced and not-great-tasting fruitcakes.

    Following European tradition, people still gave them as Christmas gifts, but few recipients enjoyed eating them.

    Many people regifted their fruitcakes; thus the joke from comedian Johnny Carson, that there was only one fruitcake in the world and it got passed from person to person.

    Buy or bake yourself a really good fruitcake and see why it deserves its place among the most delicious and looked-forward-to Christmas foods.

    ________________

    *The main difference between a white fruit cake and a dark fruit cake is the sugars. Traditional dark fruit cake is made with brown sugar and molasses. White fruit cake is made with white granulated sugar.

    Shekwasha, Citrus depressa, is also called shequasar, Taiwan tangerine, flat lemon, hirami lemon, or thin-skinned flat lemon. It’s a small, green citrus fruit rich in flavonoids, and native to Taiwan and Okinawa.

     
     

    CHECK OUT WHAT’S HAPPENING ON OUR HOME PAGE, THENIBBLE.COM.

     
     
      

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