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TIP OF THE DAY: Heirloom Tomatoes

Heirloom tomatoes get a lot of press in the summer. July and August are the peak months to pick these most flavorful tomatoes.

Are they worth the extra cost? And what exactly are heirloom tomatoes?
 
 
WHAT ARE HEIRLOOMS TOMATOES

Heirloom produce—fruits and vegetables—are old varieties, typically with superior flavor, that have been bypassed by commercial growers.

They are produced by family farms and other small-scale growers, and found at farmers markets (see the note below about “fake” heirloom tomatoes).

They have been passed by by the commercial agriculture industry that grew up after World War II, in favor of hybrids that were more profitable to grow.

They are grown from seeds used harvested in past centuries and prewar decades, which have been passed down within families.

Farmers select the seeds from plants that have produced fruits with the most desirable traits, like flavor, juiciness and crack resistance.

They will also select size, shape or color, but these take the back seat to flavor. These are non-hybrid, naturally pollinated fruits.

These precious seeds are what make an heirloom tomato an heirloom tomato.

They are traded at seed meet-ups among farmers and home growers, to help their diversity survive.

There are hundreds of heirloom tomato varieties grown worldwide. Different regions have a heritage of different varieties.

But all growers want the same thing: the robust flavors of “real” tomatoes, be they standard size or cherry.

They aren’t always solid red, but are black, brown, green, orange, pink, purple, yellow, and sometimes, striped.

And the consumers who love them don’t care that the tomatoes are misshapen, or have dark fissures that must be cut out for an attractive presentation.

Some varieties sold by seed companies include:

  • Amana Orange (orange beefsteak)
  • Azoychka (yellow/orange beefsteak)
  • Black Cherry (purple/black)
  • Black Krim (purple/black beefsteak)
  • Brandywine, OTV (red beefsteak)
  • Brandywine, Sudduth Strain (pink beefsteak)
  • Cherokee Chocolate (mahogany beefsteak)
  • Chocolate Stripes (red/green striped)
  • Sunset’s Red Horizon (red beefsteak)
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    WHY HEIRLOOMS ARE NOT A STANDARD TOMATO

    Why aren’t heirloom tomatoes grown commercially, in large enough quantities to be sold in every store?

    Commercial growers and retailers seek to maximize profit.

    Thus, tomatoes have evolved to meet the demands of both consumers and stores, which means great flavor has given away to easy-to-grow, lower-cost tomatoes.

    Commercial varieties have been bred for:

  • Beauty in shape and color.
  • Faster growing cycle.
  • Resistance to disease, pests and drought.
  • Higher yield.
  • Hardness for harvesting and shipping.
  • Longer shelf life.
  •  
    While commercial tomatoes look great and are very productive, the heirloom varieties have the taste and look of the quality tomatoes that our great-grandparents enjoyed.

    Tourists who experience fabulous tomatoes during trips to Greece, Italy and other European countries exclaim that they’re so much better abroad. That’s because they’re heirloom tomatoes.

    People who eat heirlooms marvel at their flavor and texture know how different they are from hard, mealy supermarket tomatoes and relish the summer treasure.

    The same is true with animal crops. For example, commercial chickens and turkeys are one breed, that are bred to:

  • Grow to maturity quickly, thus saving money on feed.
  • Have the large breast that consumers want.
  •  
    By the way, there is no regulation around the term “heirloom.” Anyone can call tomatoes heirloom.

    Larger growers can use the term for what are actually genetically modified seeds, inferior tomatoes that may have been transported from far away.

    That’s why we confine our purchases to farmers markets, where small growers grow the tomatoes locally.

    When you see a table of heirloom tomatoes of different varieties, you’ll quickly see how they differ from commercial tomatoes.
     
     
    WAYS TO ENJOY HEIRLOOMS TOMATOES

    So, what should you do with heirloom tomatoes?

    Like extra virgin olive oil, they should be enjoyed in their natural state; i.e., not cooked.

     

    Cherokee Purple Heirloom Tomatoes
    [1] Cherokee Purple heirloom tomatoes (photo © Valeria Boltneva | Pexels).

    Green Zebra Heirloom Tomatoes
    [2] Green Zebra heirloom tomatoes have a delightful eye appeal (photo © Good Eggs).

    Indigo Rose Heirloom Tomatoes
    [3] Indigo Rose heirloom tomatoes. You can buy the seeds from Harris Seeds (photo © Harris Seeds).

    Indigo Blue Heirloom Tomatoes
    [4] Indigo Blue heirloom tomatoes. You can buy the seeds from Harris Seeds (photo © Harris Seeds).

    Heirloom Tomatoes
    [5] Heirloom tomatoes are rarely perfectly round (photo © Good Eggs).

    Heirloom Tomatoes
    [6] A bowl of mixed heirloom tomatoes showing a variety of colors (photo courtesy Suncadia).

     
    They’re delicious cooked, of course; but cooking with other flavors takes the focus away from the nuances of the raw tomato.

  • In green salads
  • In Caprese salad and with other cheeses
  • On burgers
  • On a BLT, grilled cheese and other sandwiches
  • On pasta, diced with a dressing of EVOO, parmesan, fresh basil and cracked pepper
  • On toast
  •  
    If you have very soft tomatoes that won’t slice well, make:

  • Gazpacho
  • Uncooked tomato sauce
  •  
    By the way, heirloom tomatoes have the same nutrition values as supermarket tomatoes—or rather, that hybrid supermarket tomatoes retain the same nutrition as their heirloom ancestors.

    These include vitamins A and C and the antioxidant lycopene, a carotenoid that gives red fruits and vegetables their color. (Green, orange and yellow tomatoes don’t have lycopene, but have higher levels of other micronutrients).

    As an antioxidant, lycopene protects against cell damage, including sun protection. It also can improve heart health and provide a lower risk of certain types of cancer.

    Tomatoes provide about 80% of the lycopene in the American diet.

      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Paella Pan Serving Plate

    Punch Bowl Desserts

    Dessert Bites
    [1 & 2] Serve appetizer or dessert bites in a paella pan (photos © Empellón Restaurant | NYC.

     

    Here’s an idea from Empellón Restaurant in New York City, which specializes in modern Mexican cuisine.

    Grab that paella pan, serving tray or oversize dish from its hiding place, fill it with crushed ice get ready to present an appetizer or dessert “buffet.”

    Top the ice with a variety of small bites and shot glasses of apéritifs or dessert drinks.

    It’s an idea you can use indoors or outdoors.

    We recently used the concept to serve desserts at an al fresco dinner, topping the ice with:

  • Chocolate truffles
  • Fruit skewers
  • Key lime tartlets
  • Mini mousse cups
  • Watermelon Jell-O shots (with a small dice of added watermelon)
  •  
    To drink:

  • Horchata
  • Iced espresso with coffee liqueur
  • Spiced cider
  •  
    Check out these three-ounce shooter glasses-dessert cups-tumblers that can be used for desserts and drinks. (You can see them in photo #2, filled with lavender mousse.)

    You can use them for almost anything you want to keep chilled in the ice, but not on the ice.

    For example, with appetizers:

  • Cheese and fruit picks
  • Crudités and dip
  • Shrimp or scallops and cocktail sauce
  •  
    Happy entertaining!

     

      

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    TOP PICK OF THE WEEK: Siggi’s Lactose Free Yogurt

    You can tell that Americans suffer from lactose intolerance by the different types of lactose-free milk in stores.

    In our supermarket, there are as many varieties of lactose-free milk as conventional cow’s milk (0%, 2%, whole, chocolate, etc.).

    In fact, Prevention magazine says that 65% of the world population are officially diagnosed as lactose-intolerant. Others among us may be slightly lactose-intolerant but don’t know it.

    According to Green Valley Creamery, producer of lactose-free products, there are more lactose-intolerant and lactose-sensitive people in America than gluten-free, vegan and vegetarian people combined.

    That’s an estimated 30-50 million people, 12% of the population.

    Many members of the lactose-intolerant community just stopped eating dairy altogether. Some switched to non-dairy products made from almond milk, coconut milk, etc.

    But what if you love cow’s milk?
     
     
    LACTOSE-FREE DAIRY PRODUCTS

    Over the past several years, two companies have stepped up to serve the market for lactose-intolerant people who prefer cow’s milk:

  • Lactaid makes lactose-free cottage cheese, ice cream, milk and seasonal egg nog.
  • Green Valley makes lactose-free butter, cottage cheese, cream cheese, Greek yogurt (0%, 2% and whole milk), kefir and sour cream.
  •  
    Others participate on a smaller level. For example:

  • Breyers makes lactose-free vanilla ice cream.
  •  
    Now, there are two new lactose-free yogurts from Siggi’s.
     
     
    SIGGI’S YOGURT (SKYR)

    In 2004, Icelander Siggi Hilmarsson moved to New York City. He was disappointed that American yogurts lacked the richness of Icelandic yogurt, or skyr (pronounced skeer).

    With a recipe from his mother, Siggi began to make skyr in his kitchen: a lower-sugar yogurt that uses milk from family farms.

    When he got it onto the shelves of specialty food stores, it was an immediate hit with yogurt lovers: a luxurious, ultra-premium yogurt experience.

    Siggi’s yogurt that is even thicker than Greek yogurt. Greek yogurt is triple-strained, but skyr is quadruple-strained.

    By the way, the more concentrated (strained) a style of yogurt is, the costlier it will be because it contains more milk and less water (one cup of Siggi’s requires four times more milk than a typical American brand).

    The offset: More milk means more protein.

    Siggi’s line has since expanded to include yogurts in 0% non-fat yogurt, 2% low-fat yogurt, 4% whole-milk yogurt and 4% no added sugar yogurt.

    For those who can’t have enough richness, there’s a triple cream yogurt made even richer treat with more added cream—an Icelandic practice.

    Siggi says that the skyr his dad eats in Iceland may even have more cream than skyr!

    Siggi’s also makes whole-milk, drinkable filmjölk, a beverage similar to kefir; yogurt tubes for kids; and yogurt cups with pieces of fruits and nuts.
     
    And Now, Lactose-Free Siggi’s Yogurt

    Siggi’s new lactose-free yogurts, in Plain and Vanilla, are a whole milk product. As previously noted, in whole milk skyr recipes, that means milk plus a bit of cream.

     

    Yogurt With Arils
    [1] A dish of yogurt and pomegranate arils (all photos © Siggi’s).

    Siggi's Lactose Free Yogurt
    [2] Siggi’s new whole milk, lactose-free yogurts in Plain and Vanilla.

    Siggi's Yogurt With Nuts & Grapes
    [3] A nutritious breakfast: Siggi’s yogurt, peanut butter, fruit and nuts.

    Siggi's Yogurt With Smoked Salmon
    [4] On the savory side: Siggi’s plain yogurt with smoked salmon. Who needs cream cheese? Bagel optional.

     
     
    A BONUS FOR CHEESE LOVERS

    A general note about cheese products:

    As cheeses age, the lactose begins to disappear, broken down by beneficial bacteria in the cheese. Thus, highly-aged cheeses like Parmesan have much less lactose than cream cheese or goat cheese.

    However, even 1% remaining lactose can be too much for highly-sensitive people.

    The good news: Two popular cheeses, Cheddar and Jarlsberg, have zero lactose.
     
     
    ABOUT LACTOSE INTOLERANCE

    Lactose, or milk sugar, is naturally found in milk and other dairy products. All animal milk has lactose, but cow’s milk has more than others.

    When people consume lactose, the body digests it with a stomach enzyme called lactase. If a person’s stomach doesn’t produce enough lactase, the lactose remains undigested in the stomach and causes unpleasant symptoms: bloating, gas, diarrhea.

    Some people are born without enough lactase to digest milk products. Some produce enough lactase throughout their lives. And others gradually produce less lactase as they grow older.

    The most lactose-tolerant people are descended from dairying people of northern Europe.

    Certain other ethnic groups, particularly those that historically have consumed little dairy, tend to be more lactose-intolerant. Some of these groups are people of Arab, East Asian and West African, descent.

    If you believe you may be lactose intolerant, a physician can give you a simple test.

    Then, head to the grocer’s and stock up on Siggi’s lactose-free yogurt.

      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Frosecco, A Frozen Prosecco Cocktail

    Frosecco Prosecco Cocktail
    [1] Frosecco, a frozen Prosecco drink (photo © Cavit).

    Prosecco Flutes
    [2] Flutes of Prosecco at BLT Prime | New York.

    Veneto, Italy
    [3] The Veneto region of Italy (photo courtesy Wikipedia).

     

    A toast to National Prosecco Day, August 13th (photo #2)! The Bellini cocktail, created in 1948 at Harry’s Bar in Venice, was made with Prosecco.

    Here’s the recipe for a Bellini, but our focus today is something new.

    Three years ago, the drink rage of the summer was the Frosé, a frozen rosé drink made by adding a scoop of sorbet to a glass of rosé (recipes below.

    Now, we propose a new frosty drink: Frosecco, a frozen Prosecco cocktail made with Italy’s famed sparkling wine (photo #1).

    It’s a blender drink created by Cavit Winery.
     
     
    FROZEN DRINK RECIPE: CAVIT’S FROSECCO

    Ingredients For 4-6 Drinks

  • 1 bottle Prosecco
  • 1/4 cup fresh lime juice (3 limes)
  • 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice (2 lemons)
  • 2 tablespoons agave*
  • 1/2 cup ice
  • Optional garnish: lemon peel, blueberry cocktail pick
  •  
    Preparation

    1. POUR a bottle of Prosecco into a freezer-proof container and freeze overnight.

    2. COMBINE the frozen Prosecco, lime juice, lemon juice, agave and ice in a blender, and pulse or blend to desired consistency.
     

    HERE’S MORE ABOUT CAVIT, which also makes Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Moscato, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Rosé, Select Red Blend and Sweet Red Blend.

    Here’s a store locator.

    Here are more Prosecco cocktail recipes from Cavit.
     
     
    ABOUT PROSECCO

    Prosecco, from the Veneto region of northeast Italy (photo #3), is the best-selling sparkling wine in the world by volume.

    The history of Prosecco is not well documented. Until recently, there were different theories about its origin. The name Prosecco is derived from the Italian village of Prosecco near Trieste, where the grape and the wine may have originated.

    Now it is believed that the first Prosecco was created in 1868 by Antonio Carpene, who subjected still white wine of the area to a second fermentation, which produced the bubbles.

    Today, Prosecco is controlled by DOC or DOCG†. Under these wine laws, Prosecco can be spumante (“sparkling wine”), frizzante (“semi-sparkling wine”), or tranquillo (“still wine”).

    The laws also specify which towns can produce Prosecco, typically because of the quality of their soil, which impacts the flavor of the wine.

    The flavor of Prosecco is crisp, often described as having notes of apricot, pear, white peach and/or yellow apple.

     
    It is light, fresh, comparatively simple—as opposed to the complexity of Champagne—and should be drunk young, preferably within three years of its vintage (the top bottles can aged for up to seven years).

    It is lower in alcohol than Champagne, typically 10.5%-11.5% A.B.V., and nice for a summer apéritif (photo #2) before dinner.
     
     
    FROSÉ RECIPES

  • Blueberry Frosé
  • Classic Frosé
  • Drinkable Frosé Sundae
  • Frosé Granita
  •   
    ________________

    *If you want a different sweetener, note that gave is twice as sweet as sugar or honey. Here’s conversion information.

    †DOCG and DOC are Italian quality classifications. DOCG is Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita, Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin. DOC is Denominazione di Origine Controllata, Denomination of Controlled Origin.The labels are an assurance of the provenance and quality of the wines. DOCG is the higher category. The regulations for each delineate the production area, permitted grape varieties and production techniques. DOC Prosecco can be produced in nine provinces in the Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia regions. Prosecco Superiore DOCG is even more restricted.

      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Summer Soup Garnishes

    Tomato Peach Gazpacho
    [1] Tomato-Peach Gazpacho. Here’s the recipe from Botanica Restaurant | LA.

    Cold Summer Soup
    [2] Chilled Zucchini-Basil Soup from Botanica Restaurant.


    [3] Peach-Jalapeño Gazpacho garnished with cucumber, jalapeño, watercress and white peaches (all photos © Botanica Restaurant)

     

    A bowl of soup can be more than a bowl of soup.

    Botanica restaurant in Los Angeles shows us how.

    You can port the concept to any soup, hot or cold.
     
     
    TOMATO-PEACH GAZPACHO

    Garnishes include:

  • Borage flowers
  • Pesto (substitute basil olive oil)
  • Scallions
  • Tomato strips
  • Yellow beets
  • Watermelon radish
  •  
    Here’s the recipe for the soup.

    While you’re on the website, check out the other recipes.

    And subscribe at the bottom of the page to receive regular culinary inspiration.
     
     
    CHILLED ZUCCHINI BASIL SOUP

    Garnishes include:

  • Basil leaves
  • Basil olive oil
  • Cherry tomatoes, halved
  • Homemade croutons/li>
     
     
    GAZPACHO RECIPES

    Garnish to your heart’s content.

  • Avocado Gazpacho
  • Fruit Gazpacho
  • Gazpacho Shooters
  • Gazpacho Shots
  • Gazpacho Verde
  • Gazpacho With Beer
  • Mango Gazpacho With Fromage Blanc Sorbet
  • Melon Gazpacho
  • Pineapple Gazpacho
  • Salsa Gazpacho
  • Strawberry Gazpacho
  • White Gazpacho
  • Other Chilled Fruit Soups & Vegetable Soups
  •  
     
    For more soup recipes, use the pull-down menu at the right.

     

      

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