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TIP OF THE DAY: Red-Veined Sorrel


[1] Just-harvested red sorrel, ready for the evening’s menu at Union Square Cafe (photo © Union Square Cafe).


[2] Beet and Red Sorrel Salad with Pistachio. Here’s the recipe from Paul Liebrandt (photo © Anna Williams | Food & Wine).


[3] Even in a colorful dish, a leaf of red sorrel is eye-catching (photo of carrot spaghetti with scallop and kale © Augustine Fou | Unsplash).


[4] Planked salmon with sorrel sauce. Here’s the recipe from Crumbblog.


[5] A field of sorrel (photo © Mariquita Farms).

 

The next time you’re at a farmers market or specialty produce store, look for red sorrel.

It’s a beauty that can garnish anything from a green salad to lemon sorbet to sparkling water.

It’s aesthetically pleasing, expressive, festive, and may we add, a great garnish for Valentine’s Day food and beverages.

Because we’re focused on the beauty of red-veined sorrel as a garnish, we’re not going to cover green sorrel today. As a recipe ingredient (soup, chutney, whatever), it tastes like the red sorrel variety.
 
 
SORREL BACKGROUND

Sorrel is a perennial herb with juicy stems arrow-shaped leaves. The leaves can be cooked or served raw in salads and as garnishes (the raw leaves add tartness).

As with all plants, there are numerous varieties—not only within red sorrel and green sorrel, but also

Our favorite variety has red veins (photo #1), which give it the glamour to garnish.

The name sorrel derives from the Germanic word sur and the old French surele, both meaning sour.

It is an ancient herb used by Egyptians and then, Europeans to impart acidity to dishes.

Depending on the variety, it can be refreshing, sharply acidic, or astringent; it can have a spinachlike taste with bitter notes or a milder, lemony taste (the dried leaves lose their lemony taste).

The younger the leaves, the earlier in the season (early spring to late fall), the less acidic. If the leaves are too bitter for you, blanch them for 10 seconds.

Another rule of thumb: enjoy small leaves raw, large leaves cooked.

There are three major varieties of sorrel:

  • Broad leaf/common sorrel (Rumex acetosa), with slender, arrow-shaped leaves.
  • French or buckler leaf sorrel (Rumex scutatus), with small, bell-shaped leaves.
  • Red-veined sorrel (Rumex sanguineus), with a slender, tapered leaf and bright red veins throughout.
  • Sheep’s sorrel (Rumex acetosella), is similar to common sorrel, but with smaller leaves. It is foraged rather than cultivated across much of the U.S.
  •  
    Another plant called sorrel is the unrelated Jamaican sorrel, from the Hibiscus or Mallow family, Malvaceae. It is used for beverages and preserves in Mexico and the Caribbean.

    Tea made from Jamaican sorrel is a homeopathic remedy to lower elevated blood pressure, bad cholesterol and as a general detoxifier.
     
     
    USES FOR SORREL

    Our first sorrel recipe, perhaps at age 10, was to help our Nana prepare the famed cold Russian soup, schav: sorrel combined with sour cream, lemon juice, chicken broth and egg yolks, and garnished chopped egg, sour cream and scallions.

    Schav (shtshav) is Yiddish for sorrel, and it was once a hugely popular summer soup—right up there with borscht.

    In European cuisines, sorrel brings lemony intensity to whatever it graces.

  • Avocado toast
  • Beverage garnish: club soda/mineral water, cocktail garnish, juice, iced tea*
  • Condiments: chutney, pesto
  • Cream sauces
  • Cured meats: charcuterie, prosciutto, serrano ham
  • Eggs and egg salad
  • Goat cheese and quiche
  • Fresh herb (substitute for parsley, thyme, etc.)
  • Fresh lemon substitute*
  • Gratins
  • Plate garnishes: cheese plates, dessert platters, pasta in EVOO, anything that needs a bit of green and red
  • Poached eggs
  • Poached fish, from salmon to white fishes
  • Pot herb (i.e., a cooked herb or as a vegetable side like spinach)
  • Salads (beet salad, green salad, fruit salad) and dressings
  • Sandwiches
  • Sauces (check out this recipe)
  • Savory yogurt
  • Smoked or oily fish
  • Soups and stews
  • Stewed and braised meats
  • Stir-fries
  • Spice blends: for green sauce, marinades, potato soup
  • Vegetables, especially onions, peppers and potatoes
  •  
    MINI TIP: To prevent sorrel from blackening and developing a metallic taste, use only stainless steel or other non-reactive pots and cooking utensils.

    MINI TIP: If you have too much fresh sorrel, saute them in butter until they wilt. Freeze in individual ice cube containers until you’re ready to defrost and add them to eggs, grains, vegetables, etc.

    How about 100 sorrel recipes?


    SORREL HISTORY

    Native to Europe and western Asia, sorrel grew wild in grassland habitats. It is commonly cultivated in France, Egypt, and parts of Europe and the U.S.—the areas where it is most popular in cuisine.

    The intense lemony tang is also embraced in cuisine from Nigeria to Scotland to Vietnam [source].

    Sorrel, Rumex acetosa, is a member of the Polygonaceae family of flowering plants, known informally as the buckwheat family and, outside the U.S., the knotweed family or smartweed.

    In addition to buckwheat, rhubarb is another well-known food in the family.

    Earliest known examples of cultivation include Egypt, where its tartness was used to offset rich foods [source].

    The Romans and Greeks followed suit, to aid digestion of rich foods. Homeopathically, it was used to treat liver ailments and for throat and mouth ulcers.

    Even today, it is used around the world to treat scurvy and chronic skin conditions, and to lower fevers. Both the fresh leaves and the flowers are high in calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium and vitamins A and C†,

    Red sorrel is native to Europe and was likely brought to the United States with colonists, where it now grows throughout the country [source].

    You just don’t want to grow it in your garden: It’s what’s known as a spreading rhizome, an aggressive-spreading, hard-to-control perennial weed.

    ________________

    *If you steep the whole leaves in boiling water and add sugar or other sweetener, you get a lemon-less lemonade.

    †In addition to good nutrition, sorrel also contains oxalic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in greens like including kale and spinach. Oxalic acid is lethal in very high enough doses, but you’d have to eat almost 10 pounds of greens daily to be affected [source].

     
      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Beyond Avocado Toast, Middle Eastern Eggplant Toast

    Middle Eastern eggplant toast? We’ve done classic avocado toast, we’ve done fancy avocado toast, we’ve done mushroom toast. We’ve done sweet toasts:

    All delicious.

    But the palate wants the adventure to continue.

    Thus, today’s toast journey is inspired by the Eggplant Toast at Kismet restaurant in Los Angeles.

    Here’s a variation of their spiced eggplant recipe, with different garnishes: cherries, hazelnuts and tarragon.

    But the photo shows a piece of artisan toast topped with:

  • Brined, spiced eggplant, skillet-fried
  • , and lim

  • Crispy shallots
  • Spicy minty tahini
  • Toppings: pomegranate arils, mint leaves
  • Garnish: freshly-grated lime zest
  • Bread crust garnish: sesame seeds
  •  
    We’re not certain how the sesame seeds were affixed to the bread crust, but you can use tahini.

    We admit to using a bit of honey, which added a sweet element to the spice-seasoned stack.

    OK, it takes a bit more effort than mashed avocado; but it’s worth it for a change.

    July is National Eggplant Month, and August 17th is National (and World) Eggplant Day.

     
    THE HISTORY OF EGGPLANT

    Eggplant (Solana melongena) is a member of the Solanaceae or Nightshade family: There’s more information about this fascinating family in the footnote below.

    Eggplant is believed to be native to India, where its ancestor, called thorn or bitter apple (Solana incanum) stills grow wild.

    Originally a bitter, spiny, orange, pea-sized fruit, it has been cultivated in India and China for more than 1500 years, during which it was bred into its modern forms [source].

    It has been cultivated in southern and eastern Asia since prehistory, and an early mention appears in an ancient Chinese agricultural treatise from 544 [source].

    As trade routes developed, eggplant was introduced to Europe by Arab ships and transported to Africa by the Persians. The Spaniards carried it with them to the New World and, by the early 1800s, both white and purple varieties could be found in American gardens.

    Today, the plant is grown worldwide for its edible fruit: Yes, you can tell it’s a botanical fruit because the seeds are carried inside.

    Although it is considered a vegetable, it is a berry by botanical definition.

    There are many different words for eggplant:

  • Aubergine in Britain, France, Holland, and Germany.
  • Berenjena in Spanish.
  • Brinjal or brinjaul, in South Asia and South African English.
  • Melanzana in Italian, and so on, around the world.
  •  
    The name eggplant is usual in North American English and Australian English.

     


    [1] Imagine a warm and tranquil day, imagine the Mediterranean just beyond your Eggplant Toast.

    Mixed Eggplant
    [2] Assorted eggplant varieties (photo © Bleu Ribbon Kitchen).


    [3] Americans used the term “eggplant” after white cultivars that looked like hen’s eggs (photo © Burpee Home Gardens).

     
    First recorded in 1763, the word was originally applied to white cultivars, which look very much like hen’s eggs (photo #4).
     
    People the world over love eggplant: a versatile food that pairs with so many others.

    At some point in eggplant-loving China’s past, as part of her “bride price,” a woman had to have at least 12 eggplant recipes prior to her wedding day.

    Married or single, collect as many eggplant recipes as you like.

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    *Nightshades are members of the Solanaceae family of flowering plants, many of which are edible, while others are poisonous (some have both edible and toxic parts). The name of the family comes from the Latin Solanum, “the nightshade plant.”

    Other edible members include capsicum (the chiles), Chinese lanterns, eggplants, garden huckleberry, ground cherry, naranjilla, pepinos, peppers, potatoes, and the tree tomato. One thing that sets these nightshades apart is their alkaloid content. Alkaloids are harmful nitrogen compounds that, in high quantities, are toxic, causing nausea, diarrhea with vomiting and headaches. In extreme cases, they lead to unconsciousness and convulsions to the point of respiratory paralysis.

    That’s why the tomato was considered poisonous by Europeans and not eaten for 200 years following its discovery. Alkaloids exist in tiny, non-harmful quantities in the nightshade foods we eat. Tobacco and the petunia are also members of the family, as well as the Datura or Jimson weed, the mandrake and the deadly nightshade or belladonna.
     
     

    CHECK OUT WHAT’S HAPPENING ON OUR HOME PAGE, THENIBBLE.COM.
     
     
     
      

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    TOP PICK OF THE WEEK: Cookie Pop Popcorn With Oreo Pieces


    [1] The latest sweet treat to cross our desk: Cookie Pop Popcorn with Oreo pieces.


    [2] From the bag to the canister (both photos © Snax-Sational Brands).

     

    This may be a first for THE NIBBLE: Our Top Pick Of The Week is a junk food, a sugary snack.

    Snax-Sational, a snack food company, recently sent us samples of Cookie Pop Popcorn: a blend of popcorn and Oreo cookie pieces:

    The popcorn kernels have a sugary “creme” coating that tastes like Oreo stuffing.

    It’s a purely sweet treat: The sample we received didn’t have a salted popcorn profile. But there’s no reason you can’t toss some salt in the bag and shake it.

    Salt or not: Cookie Pop created a sensation in our office, with every coming back for additional handfuls.
     
     
    IS IT REALLY JUNK FOOD?

    The popcorn-Oreo blend is 150 calories per serving size of 1-1/4 cups. The total carbohydrate is 19g with 12g of total sugars.

    The snack is low in sodium and made with non-GMO corn. It has 1g of protein per serving.

    And yes: Popcorn is a whole-grain food with these benefits.

    It almost sounds like Cookie Pop Popcorn is a good snack choice, but make no mistake:

    This is junk food: glorious, sugary junk food. It’s also a fun food, waiting to garnish cupcakes, ice cream and hot chocolate.

    If you need a sugary jolt, treat yourself to a bag. Just pace yourself.
     
     
    THE BIRTH OF A SNACK FOOD

    The concept for Cookie Pop Popcorn came about when the founder added crushed Oreos to another snack food, popcorn. He thought he had a hit on his hands.

     
    He combined other sweet snacks with popcorn and produced a variety of flavors, of which Butterfinger Candy Pop Popcorn and Twix Candy Pop Popcorn join Cookie Pop in today’s line-up.

    You can purchase all of them on SnackPop.com.

    There’s also a store locator on the website.
     
     

    CHECK OUT WHAT’S HAPPENING ON OUR HOME PAGE, THENIBBLE.COM.

     
     

     
      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Green Garlic

    Green garlic—also called young garlic or spring garlic—may look like scallions. But they are the immature, spring version of the cured bulbs available year-round.

    Harvested when young, green garlic looks like scallions (a.k.a. green onions). The bulb has not yet begun to separate into cloves (photo #1).

    At this stage in its youth, the whole plant is edible. It has a sweeter, milder flavor than fully cured garlic bulbs/heads (photo #4).

    If left in the ground to to grow, the bright green tops die off after the bulbs underground have rounded out into the bulb/head.

    When the mature heads are dug up and hung up to dry, the papery cellulose layers around and between the cloves of the bulb form a protective layer that enables the heads to stay in storage for up to a year.
     
     
    DIGGING IN TO GREEN GARLIC

    When garlic is young and green, the whole plant is edible, like a scallion. It has a sweeter, milder flavor than when the garlic bulbs are fully cured.

    Green garlic often looks so similar to green onions and spring onions, that the best way to identify green garlic is simply to take a sniff. It will smell of garlic rather than onion.

    Another giveaway: Green garlic leaves are flat (photo #1); scallion leaves are tubular.
     
     
    USES FOR GREEN GARLIC

    Use green garlic raw or cooked, wherever you’d like subtle garlic flavor. Prepare it as you would a scallion, and use it in:

  • Braises, sautés* and grilled vegetables (they’re great charred, as a side)
  • Egg dishes: breakfast eggs, deviled eggs, frittatas, quiche
  • Dips and spreads, like hummus or yogurt dip (mix yogurt with green garlic pesto)
  • Grains and grain bowls
  • Herb butter (compound butter for potatoes, spreads, veggies)
  • Pesto
  • Pickled garlic (how to pickle)
  • Pasta and pizza
  • Salads and salad dressings
  • Sauces
  • Soups and soup garnish
  • Savory yogurt or yogurt sauce/dressing
  •  
    Try green garlic in a stir-fry, chopped up with eggs, or sautéed with greens. For a quick (and delicious) kitchen project, use green garlic instead of basil in your next batch of pesto.

    Use it wherever you’d use regular bulb garlic or green onions, or use it in recipes specifically designed to grilled, or pickled. Add it to a frittata, a soup, or pair it with other spring treats like asparagus. Put green garlic in pasta, a rice bowl (don’t forget to pick up pea shoots),

    Our personal favorite is a saute of asparagus, green garlic, morels, ramps and spring peas. Made with butter or olive oil, we can eat an entire batch of it on noodles or grains.

     
    WHAT ARE GARLIC SCAPES?

    Scapes are the curling shoots of young garlic plants (photo #3). They will grow into green garlic.

    For decades they were cut off in the fields and thrown away, to allow the garlic bulbs to grow larger, before growers realized that chefs and foodies were eager to buy them.

    The curling shoots have more intensity than green garlic, and it’s best to blanch them first. This unleashes a milder, sweeter flavor.

    Just dip the scapes into salted boiling water for 30 seconds, then place them in an ice bath. You’re ready to roll.

    Use garlic scapes the same ways you would green garlic.

    How about some Potato, Nettle & Green Garlic Soup?
     
     
    FOOD 101: SCALLIONS, GREEN ONIONS & SPRING ONIONS

    While many people use the term “green onions” for scallions, we prefer scallions. Why?

    There are also spring onions, different from green onions.

    Spring onions look similar to scallions a.k.a. green onions. It’s easy to confuse them.

    Sometimes the easy way to tell them apart is from the bulbs: If the ends are very bulbous, it’s a spring onion. But some varieties have smaller bulbs.

     


    [1] Green garlic: not scallions, a.k.a. green onions (photos #1, #2 and #5 © Good Eggs).

    Green Garlic
    [2] Some varieties of green garlic have purple at the base.


    [3] The first form of garlic to emerge is garlic scapes. They will grow into green garlic, and finally garlic bulbs/heads (photo © Vicia Restaurant | St. Louis).

    Garlic Cloves
    [4] Scapes and green garlic will eventually turn into garlic bulbs/heads (photo via Domain Image [site now closed]).

    Green Garlic Soup
    [5] Green garlic and nettle soup. Here’s the recipe from Good Eggs.

     
    Part of the confusion is that spring onions are planted as seedlings in the late fall and then harvested the next spring; hence the name.

    Another source of confusion: In the U.K. countries, including Canada, spring onions are called green onions!

    Here’s more about them.

    ________________

    *Another tip: Save the infused oil from sautés and drizzle it on fish, poultry, meat, pasta and anything else you like.

      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Winter Grain Bowls

    [1] While waiting for spring produce to appear in another 6 weeks or so, try make winter grain bowls from the infographic below (photo © Good Eggs).

     

    Many people got onto the grain bowl bandwagon several years ago.

    We’re late to the game, unless you consider our regular outing for a Sofritas Bowl at Chipotle—brown rice, black beans, salad, salsa and sofritas (shredded tofu braised with chipotle chilies, roasted poblanos and spices) a grain bowl.

    But after receiving the infographic below from Good Eggs, a specialty grocery purveyor in greater San Francisco, we decided to make them for weekend brunch—avoiding the high carb bagels we usually brunch upon.

    The grains—the most cumbersome part of building the bowl—can be purchased already cooked or made in a pressure cooker or slow cooker.

    The grain bowl in the photo has a base of farro, topped with black beans, crumbled goat cheese, kale and roasted sweet potato (substitute squash), and garnished with fresh herbs, toasted pepitas and pomegranate arils.

    That’s a heap of nutrition in one bowl, plus bright colors to cheer away the winter blues.

    Check out what the Good Eggs team would add to their own bowls that aren’t on the chart—such as a poached egg and veggies such as beets, cucumber, fennel, and the onion group (including scallions).

    Next, start planning your own bowl! It’s a great way to use up leftovers, too.

     

    [2] Use this infographic to combine your winter grain bowl ingredients (infographic © Good Eggs).

     
      

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