[1] Moroccan-spiced baked fries (photos #1 and #4 © Idaho Potato Commission)

[2] Ras el hanout, the famed Moroccan spice blend (photo © Silk Road Spices).

[3] The ras el hanout spices are blended, then ground. This mix includes allspice, black peppercorns, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, crushed red pepper flakes, cumin, hibiscus, lavender, mustard seed and star anise. (photo © Spice & Tea).

[4] The types of Idaho potatoes. Idaho russets are on the bottom row.

[5] Broiled Salmon with Ras El Hanout Spiced Butter. Here’s the recipe (photo © The Kitchn).

[5] How about some grilled Moroccan Chicken? Here’s the recipe (photo © Feasting At Home).

For Cook Something Bold & Pungent Day (November 9th), we made these oven-baked fries flavored with the Moroccan spice blend, ras el hanout (photo #1, recipe below).

While ras el hanout is piquant rather than pungent (here’s the difference), it fit the bill—especially since the spice blend was augmented with garlic, paprika and cilantro.
 
 
WHAT IS RAS EL HANOUT

As just mentioned, ras el hanout is a Moroccan spice blend; it is also used in Algeria and Tunisia.

The name translates as “top of the shop,” i.e., the best.

There is no one recipe for ras el hanout: Every spice merchant has a proprietary recipe, and the cooks who buy the spices debate who has the best version.

The mixture often includes 30 or more of a spice merchant’s best ingredients: whole spices, dried roots and leaves, ground together.

 
The complex blend delivers many subtle undercurrents of floral, peppery and sweet.
 
 
HOW TO USE RAS EL HANOUT

Traditional uses include as a dry rub or marinade for grilled meats, in starches (couscous, potatoes, rice) and traditional Moroccan dishes like b’stilla and tagines.

You’ll find many uses for it. As with all blends, a bonus benefit is that you don’t have to measure out multiple seasonings.

We use ras el hanout on many things:

 
 
BUY IT OR MAKE IT

If you don’t want to buy a jar, here’s a recipe from food writer Marc Bittman:

 
Thanks to the Idaho Potato Commission for this recipe. If you love potatoes, check out the myriad of creative potato recipes on their website.
 

RECIPE: BAKED FRENCH FRIES WITH RAS EL HANOUT SEASONING

This recipe was developed by Tina Dawson of Love Is In My Tummy for the Idaho Potato Commission.

Ingredients

 
Preparation

1. PEEL and slice each potato vertically in half. Take one half, then slice it vertically in half again to reduce the thickness. Flip it on the flat side, and slice again into 4 fry-shaped pieces. Repeat with all the potatoes.

2. IMMERSE the chopped potatoes in water for 20-30 minutes. This step is essential to removing the starch, making for a crispier fry.

3. RINSE the potatoes until the water runs clear. Drain. Using paper towels or a clean kitchen towel, dab until the excess moisture is removed. Transfer to a clean, dry bowl.

4. PREHEAT the oven to 425°F (220°C). Position the baking rack to the lowest position and another rack to the slot just above it.

5. COMBINE the potatoes with the rest of the ingredients except the cilantro. Toss to coat the spices evenly over the potatoes. Arrange in a single layer on a large baking tray or two medium trays (you may line the tray(s) with foil to make clean-up easier).

6. BAKE for 30 minutes. Halfway during baking, swap the top and bottom trays, and flip the fries. Once the time is up and the fries are crisp…

7. REMOVE from the oven, toss with chopped cilantro and serve immediately with condiment(s) choice.
 
 
> THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF POTATOES

Popovers have always been a special food to us.

Light and airy, they can be part of the bread basket for almost any meal.

Bread lover that we are, we can make a meal just of popovers and a pot of tea.

 
The recipe is below, but first:

> National Blueberry Popover Day is March 10th.

> National Raspberry Popover Day is May 3rd.

> National Cherry Popover Day is September 1st.

> The history of popovers.
 
 
THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN POPOVERS & YORKSHIRE PUDDING

 
 
WHY DON’T WE EAT MORE POPOVERS?

For something so delicious and easy to make, why don’t we eat more of them? Is it because they (in theory) require a special pan?

Even our Mom, a baker extraordinaire who had more bakeware than one could count, didn’t have popovers in her repertoire.

Instead, she relished them at Sunday brunch and afternoon tea at a restaurant that brought a heaping basket of them to the table.

How the sight of that basket full of hot popovers filled our hearts!

Over the years, we delighted in finding restaurants that made popovers.

One of our favorite neighborhood places served them with strawberry butter. It didn’t get better than that. But oh, the line of people waiting for tables.

And then, alas, they lost their lease and closed (R.I.P., beloved Popover Café).

The Harvard Club in New York City makes them, and we’ve wangled as many lunch invitations as we can from friends who are members.

But now, the choice is obvious:
 
 
BUY A PAN!

One day we wandered into Williams Sonoma on one of those “just browsing” visits—the kind that that end in a large bill for impulse purchases.

It was there that we encountered our popover pan. Soon, we were churning out our own popovers.

They are so easy to make, that we figuratively kicked ourself for the years we went without popovers.

Why buy a 6-cup pan over a 12-cup pan?

While the first answer is, how many do you need, there is also the size of the popover.

 
Don’t worry about having too many popovers.

 
 
DO YOU REALLY NEED A POPOVER PAN?

Can’t you use a muffin tin?

Sure, a muffin pan will bake popovers just fine. But…

A popover pan will give you taller popovers with a more defined “mushroom” top.

The popovers from a muffin tin will taste the same, but the popovers will have flat tops and won’t be dramatic-looking.

See additional uses for a popover pan, below.
 
 
RECIPE: TENDER POPOVERS

“Watching popovers ‘pop’ is always a thrill,” says Vermont Creamery, which provided this recipe.

“Just don’t open the oven door!”

Vermont Creamery’s popover recipe is particularly easy because it doesn’t have the long and complicated resting time in the fridge.

Prep time is 10 minutes. Bake time is 35-40 minutes.
 
 
Ingredients For 12 Popovers

 
Preparation

1. PREHEAT the oven to 450°F; place the rack in the middle. Pour the melted butter into wells of 12 popover pan cups.

2. BEAT the eggs in bowl at high speed, scraping the bowl often. Beat for 2 minutes or until foamy, light and lemon-colored. Add milk and; continue beating for 1 minute. Add the flour and salt; beat until well mixed.

3. POUR the batter into the prepared popover pan. Bake on the middle oven rack for 15 minutes.

4. REDUCE the oven temperature to 350°F. Do not open the oven door! Continue baking for 20-25 minutes or until the popovers are a deep golden brown.

5. REMOVE from the oven. Insert a knife into each popover to allow steam to escape. Serve immediately with condiments of choice.
 

OTHER USES FOR A POPOVER PAN

 
 
> THE HISTORY OF POPOVERS

> THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF BREAD

[1] Buttery, brown popovers, ready to eat. This 12-cup popover pan is from Chicago Metallic (photo © #1 and #3 Chicago Metallic Bakeware).

[2] The simple ingredients to make popovers (photo © Vermont Creamery).

[3] A 6-cup popover pan from Chicago Metallic.

[4] A popover pan with bright red swagger, from Neiman Marcus (photo © Neiman Marcus).

[5] Here’s a recipe for cherry popovers. In the off season, you can make them with frozen cherries or other frozen berries (photo © Elephantine BLog [now closed]).

[6] Food fun: These popovers are turned into a deconstructed version of the classic British dish, Roast Beef With Yorkshire Pudding (photo © Betsy Live | Salt & Honey Caterers).

[7] Twice-baked popovers are baked, cut open and filled with bacon and scrambled eggs. Then, they—re baked some more (photo © King Arthur Flour, recipe no longer available).

[8] You can flavor popovers with herbs, and add grated cheese, too (photo © Nordicware).

*This is our favorite butter—so good we can slice it and eat it like cheese.
 
 

[1] An outstanding EVOO in an exquisite bottle (photos #1 and #2 © Oliviers & Co).

[2] The bottle arrives in a gift box, ready to bestow upon a lucky person. It includes a pouring spout.

[3] Green olives, freshly harvested and washed, ready to crush into oil (photos #3 and #4 © Sabatino Leone, whose olives are crushed into this oil).

[4] Enjoy the oil straight on bread, greens or grains.

For the holiday season, treat yourself or a foodie friend to this special bottling of extra-virgin Christmas olive oil from Oliviers & Co (photos #1 and #2).

It’s called “Christmas” olive oil because it’s an exceptional oil bottled only once a year, in a limited edition.

This superb Italian Grand Cru olive oil is packaged in an exquisite bottle dressed with gold, that’s a “keeper” in of itself. The design features the branches of a tree of life.

You can keep it as kitchen decor, or refill it with other olive oil to brighten up the table all year round.

What’s inside that’s just as memorable.
 
 
WHAT MAKES A MEMORABLE OLIVE OIL

 
As with wine grapes, terroir* is destiny for olives. The Sabatino Leone estate benefits from the Mediterranean climate and an exceptional piece of land. These give the oil unique aromatic notes that are appreciated by all lovers of fine olive oils.
 
In its beautiful bottle and gift box, this is an impeccable gift for a fine food lover.

Enjoy it on bread, carpaccio, cooked vegetables, goat cheese, greens, grilled shrimp and scallops…and straight from the spoon†.
 
 
PURCHASE IT HERE

Discover more fine products at OliviersAndCo.com.
 
 
ABOUT OLIVIERS & CO

For 25 years, Oliviers & Co has offered specialty foods from the finest groves in the Mediterranean: olive oils, vinegars and more.

Bottled in France’s Haute-Provence, behind each bottle are strict guidelines of selection, quality and traceability.

Oliviers means “olive trees” (single olivier, from the Latin oliva, olive).

While most people think of piquant olives as a vegetable, olives are fruits—the fruits of the olive tree, like apples are the fruits of the apple tree.
 
 
MORE ABOUT OLIVE OIL

The History Of Olive Oil

Extra Virgin Olive Oil: An Overview

Glossary Of Olive Oil Types & Terminology

How To Taste Olive Oil (And Have A Tasting Party!)

The Different Flavors Of Olive Oil

Why You Should Replace Butter With Olive Oil

Food Fun: An Olive Oil Martini

Beware Of Fake italian Olive Oil

*Terroir, pronounced tur-WAH, is a French agricultural term referring to the unique set of environmental factors in a specific habitat that affect a crop’s qualities. It includes climate, elevation, proximity to a body of water, slant of the land, soil type and amount of sun. These environmental characteristics give a fruit or vegetable its unique character.

†The FDA recommends two tablespoons of olive oil per day for heart-healthy benefits. There are many ways to incorporate olive oil into your diet. We try to have it at lunch in a salad, but we have it on toast for breakfast, and mix it into Greek yogurt, too. A fine EVOO is a delicious condiment!

Today’s tip started out simply as an example of how to use fresh rosemary sprigs (photo #4) as a decorative herb over the holidays.

You can place a sprig in a cocktail or mineral water, use it as a plume for mashed potatoes, use it as skewers for olives or berries, and use it as a plate garnish, as in photo #1 where it’s used to separate hors d’oeuvre on a tray.

Rosemary, Salvia rosmarinus, is a woody perennial herb with fragrant leaves that resemble evergreen needles (no relation). It is native to the Mediterranean region.

Rosemary is a member of the Lamiaceae family, that also includes other aromatic culinary herbs such as basil, hyssop, lavender, marjoram, mint, oregano, perilla, rosemary, sage, savory and thyme.

The first mention of rosemary is found on cuneiform stone tablets from around 5000 B.C.E. The Egyptians used it in their burial rituals [source].

Much later, in 8th-century Britain, Charlemagne, who promoted herbs in general, ordered rosemary to be grown in monastic gardens and farms.

In Britain, rosemary became a popular seasoning in a variety of dishes: casseroles, chicken and other poultry, fish (especially stronger/oily fish), game, lamb, pork, salads, soups, steaks and stews.

Homeopathically, rosemary contains compounds that are help to improve digestion and increase circulation.
 
 
RECIPE: BRUSCHETTA WITH PORK AND APPLE-RAISIN COMPOTE

This recipe requires brining the pork loins 24 hours in advance. Then, the additional recipe cook time is 1 hour 45 minutes.

If you don’t want to spend the time cooking pork tenderloin, just substitute store-bought ham.

You can also make the apple-raisin compote in a few days in advance, further speeding up the prep.

This recipe is courtesy of chef/owner Natalie Niksa of La Saison in Napa Valley.

For a smaller crowd, it’s easy to halve the recipe.

She pairs it with Duckhorn Wines Sauvignon Blanc (photo #2—it’s one of our favorites as well).
 
 
Ingredients For 20 Servings (2 Pieces Per Person)

 
For The Brine

 
For The Compote

[1] Pork bruschetta with apple-raisin compote (photo © La Saison | Napa Valley).

[2] This vibrant Sauvignon Blanc has aromas of lemongrass, lychee, passionfruit, melon and pineapple, followed by hints of white nectarine and lime. The palate balances refreshing acidity with the citrus and tropical fruit flavors, with a bright, zesty finish (photo © Duckhorn Vineyards).

[3] For verve, mix purple raisins with golden raisins, a.k.a. sultanas—photo © California Raisins).

[4] Fresh rosemary. You can buy grown plants ready-to-plant from Burpee (photo © Burpee).

1. MAKE the brine for the pork. Combine all ingredients (except the pork tenderloin) in a medium pot, and bring to a boil. Steep for 20 minutes and then cool completely. Once the brine is cold, add the pork tenderloins and brine for 24 hours in the refrigerator.

2. MAKE the compote. Bring the water and sugar to a boil until large bubbles start to form and the sugar starts to caramelize (approximately 15 minutes). Be careful at this stage: The sugar is VERY HOT and can burn when making caramel. Once the water and sugar have formed large bubbles and have started to caramelize…

3. REMOVE the pot from the heat and slowly add the wine, using a wooden spoon. It is important to add the wine slowly so that the caramel does not seize. Stir until the wine and caramel are completely incorporated.

4. TURN the heat to low. Add the apples, raisins, bay leaves and ginger, and cook until the apples are tender (about 15 minutes). Remove from the heat and cool completely. Add the Dijon and apple cider vinegar. Season with salt to taste. If made in advance and refrigerated, remove to the counter to warm when you are ready to assemble and serve.

When ready to cook the pork…

5. DRY the tenderloins using a paper towel. Then let the pork sit out for 30 minutes to get to room temperature before cooking.

6. PREHEAT the oven to 350°F with a rack in the middle. Slice the baguette into 40 slices, place on a baking sheet lined with foil and drizzle with olive oil. Toast for 10-12 minutes until lightly golden brown. Remove and set aside.

7. COOK the pork. Heat the oil in a medium-size pan lightly coated with the oil, and sear the pork on all sides until golden brown (approximately 7-10 minutes). Finish in the 350°F oven for 12 minutes until fully cooked and the pork registers 135°-140°F. The temperature will continue to rise after the pork is out of the oven.

8. MOVE the pork to a cutting board, cover with foil and rest for 15 minutes. Then slice to fit on top of crostini.

9. ASSEMBLE. Place the pork on top of the crostini and garnish with the apple compote.
  

[1] Drizzle some salsa on your avocado toast (photo © Eva Dilmanian | Dreams Aren’t This Good).

[2] Avocado toast “Caprese,” with mozzarella, tomato and balsamic drizzle. Here’s the recipe (photo © Two Peas In Their Pod).

We’ve seen many ideas for topping avocado toast, from spring peas and fried or poached eggs to:

 
 
But here’s a new one from Dreams Aren’t This Good: salsa.

Dreams Aren’t This Good is a salsa producer with five flavors:

 
A donation to a nonprofit is made with each purchase.

Each salsa has its own associated nonprofit; for example, Hunger Free America and Girls Up Campaign.

You can buy it on Amazon and the Dreams Aren’t This Good website.
 
 
> The History Of Avocados
 
 
> The History Of Avocado Toast
 
 
> The History Of Salsa