[1] Casa Noble Crystal Tequila: the best blanco/silver tequila we’ve ever had. [2] Add a bit of age and you get a reposado tequila. [3] The special edition named for company director Carlos Santana: Casa Noble Santana Reserve 5 Years Anejo. [4] The top of the line, Casa Noble Alta Bellezza, is as great as tequila gets. But let us quickly say: They’re all great! (Photos courtesy Casa Noble)

We haven’t had a side-by-side comparison tasting of them, but we have tasted most of the , and most recently had have the most exquisite tequila tasting of our long life, with the founder and master distiller of Casa Noble Tequila, Jose “Pepe” Hermosillo.

Don’t take only my word for it: Musician Carlos Santana preferred Casa Noble to the extent that he joined the board and had a tequila aged for five years (the bottle bears his signature).

Casa Noble has two more features that will especially interest some consumers: It’s certified organic and certified kosher (by Star-K).
 
WHAT MAKES THE FINEST TEQUILA?

The best agave plants from the species Agave tequilana (commonly called blue agave), aged to maturity (10-14 years) before harvesting.

As with everything, time is money. The most time-intensive production techniques, from roasting the agave piñas (they look like pineapples) to 100% natural fermentation and triple distillation (most tequilas are only distilled twice).

Yet, the prices are reasonable for such great spirits.
 
 
THE EXPRESSIONS OF TEQUILA

If you know spirits, you know there are different expressions based on age. In the case of tequila, the expressions are aged according to law:

 
Different distilleries can create even older expressions, in limited editions. These top-of-the-line offerings are typically housed in an exquisite bottle. While the bottle appeals to everyone, the taste is a connoisseur’s delight. They are priced accordingly (Casa Noble’s Alta Belleza—only 563 bottles available for the world—is $1,200).

Here’s more about tequila.
 
 
THE JOY OF CASA NOBLE TEQUILA

First, let us say that we had the privilege of tasting Alta Belleza, the first release of Casa Noble’s Colección del Fundador. It is offeredin extremely limited quantities, priced at $1,200, and for those who don’t concern themselves with price, well worth it. For a spectacular tequila gift, look no further.

The rest of us can find joy in Casa Noble’s Crystal (the best blanco/silver we’ve ever had) and the other expressions, all of which are affordable to reasonably affordable.

 
After having the privilege to enjoy a tasting with Pepe a few months ago, the amazing Crystal (blanco, silver) has become our gift of choice for tequila lovers. Our gift note says: “Don’t make Margaritas with this: It’s meant to be savored straight!”

Of course, if you want to make Margaritas with it, it’s your palate and your right! The Crystal will give an extra lime lift to the fresh lime juice in the cocktail.

We had our second memorable Casa Noble experience last week, at Murray’s Cheese. There, Adam Goddu, a general manager at Murray’s and a Certified Cheese Professional, joined Pepe Hermosillo to escort a group of food writers through a celestial pairing of great tequilas and memorable cheeses.

Most of us are so oriented to having cheese with wine or beer, that we don’t think of serving a cheese tasting plate with tequila. But with a glorious tequila like Casa Noble, the pairing is as natural as a Burgundy or a Barolo.

We asked Adam Goddu to advise all of us on how to put together a pairing of cheese and tequila.

Then we thought: Add a chocolate pairing and make a terrific party of the four food groups (alcohol, cheese, bread, chocolate).

In general, what do you look for in a cheese/drink pairing?

Adam: We look for some magical math: 1 + 1 = 3. You want the items to complement each other but you also want the flavor combination to evolve into something more.

We go by three basic pairing principles: “Like with Like,” “Opposites Attract” and “What Grows Together, Goes Together.” These work for pairings with crackers, jams and honeys as well as drinks.

Certain regional pairings (Loire Valley goat’s milk cheeses with a crisp white from that region) are a natural pairing…they’ve been made in the same area for centuries. I personally prefer the opposites approach: if you have a rich, decadent sheep’s milk or triple crème, you want a white with a strong acidic back bone (and perhaps some bubbles!).

Why do tequila and cheese work well together?

Adam: I think wine and beer hog the limelight when it comes to traditional cheese pairings; but tequila can be just as versatile and special with the right combination or flavors.

It can be difficult to pair cheese with high-alcohol beverages because that booziness can overpower many elements. When you have tequila with nuance and charm like Casa Noble’s Single Barrel Añejo, the sky is the limit. A funky washed rind or fudgy, spicy blue cheese pair wonderfully.

Talk us through some of the more specific pairings of different tequilas.

Adam: There are general rules you can use with certain styles, but you really need to remember that no two expressions* are exactly alike. Blanco and Joven [the two youngest expressions] are quite boozy [alcoholic] and pack a punch, so you need a cheese strong enough to stand its ground. [Editor’s note: We find Casa Noble tequilas to be so finely crafted, even the youngest are not alcoholic or “hot.”]

Higher butterfat cheeses do very well overall (sheep’s or water buffalo’s milk cheeses).

Anejo’s oaky/vanilla notes lean toward Alpine cheeses with caramel and roasted almond flavors dancing beautifully together.

Blanco tends to have a clarity and subtly with sweet corn and grass coming to the forefront. You don’t want a big brassy cheese to overpower the tequila in this case so sticking with a milder, “sweeter” Brie style is perfect.
 
What’s your favorite type of tequila to pair with cheese?

Adam: I like a challenge, so finding the perfect cheese for Joven was a lot of fun.

As far as straight up tastiness, the barrel-aged tequilas (reposado, añejo) allow a bit more freedom. You can play around with Gruyère, a clothbound Cheddar and a mild blue (Gorgonzola, Stilton) and find that each pairing brings out a different side of the tequila.

For our tasting of Casa Noble’s Crystal, Joven, Reposado, Añejo and Single Barrel Añejo, Adam created the following pairings, served with honey, Marcona almonds, dried fruits, baguette slices and crackers.

While the pairings were “textbook,” based on flavor profiles, we couldn’t find a mis-match. That’s what happens when all items are the best of their kind.

 
CHOCOLATE & TEQUILA

While chocolate was not part of the Murray’s event, we host chocolate pairings a few times a year (here’s what we do with wine, beer).

Chocolate and tequila are a delicious marriage, whether the groom is young (an unaged blanco), old (a well-aged extra añejo), or any age in-between.

Plain chocolates are the purest way to merge the flavors. We like:

 
What about flavored and filled chocolates?

[5] All of Casa Noble’s tequilas are delicious with cheese. Shown here: Greensward and Stilton (photo courtesy Casa Noble). [6] Greensward, We love chocolate with tequila. [6] Bianco Sardo, a Sardinian sheep’s milk cheese. [7] Cossett Bassett, a beloved Stilton (cheese photos courtesy Murray’s Cheese). [8] Casa Noble’s Crystal, with its lilt of lime, is a perfect pairing with white chocolate (photo courtesy Amedei Chocolate). [9] For milk or dark chocolate, head to the aged tequilas (photo courtesy La Chocolate). [10] Aztec” chocolates with chile and other Mexican spices work well with tequila (photo courtesy Bespoke Chocolate).

 
And get ready for a great Valentine’s Day (Or Anytime) Party!
 
MORE PAIRINGS

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*An expression is a different variation (think recipe) of the distillery’s spirit. The variations can be based on age, single grain/malt vs. blend (whiskey), single barrel/cask, etc. The highest-regarded distilleries can produce limited editions expressions that are aged longer, with other features that appeal to a connoisseur’s palate.

[2] Chestnut and applewood smoked bacon bread pudding (here’s the recipe from La Brea Bakery).

[3] Broccoli, goat cheese, and tomato bread pudding (here’s the recipe from the New York Times).

[4] Individual spinach-shiitake bread puddings (here’s the recipe from Food & Wine).

[5] Gruyère (groo-YAIR), which originated in Switzerland, is one of the world’s great cheeses. It is also made across the border in France. Here’s everything you need to know about Gruyère (photo © Castello Cheese).

Bread pudding is a popular dessert—sweet, custardy, comfort food. It turns no longer fresh bread into something sublime. Leave out the sugar and you have a savory bread pudding, to be served as a side with dinner.

In fact, bread pudding was originally a savory dish, served as a side with dinner (for the poor, it might have been the dinner).

It remains a welcome side dish, but can also replace a frittata, strata, or quiche at brunch.

> Savory Bread Pudding With Mushrooms & Radicchio is below.

> So are more savory bread pudding recipes.

> Plus, different ways to serve savory bread puddings.

> We begin with a brief history of bread pudding.
 
 
THE HISTORY OF BREAD PUDDING

Bread pudding originated in the 11th or 12th century as a way to use stale bread.

Pieces of bread were cut or torn, combined with other ingredients (cheese, onions, mushrooms, other vegetables, bits of meat), topped with custard, and then baked until the top was set but the inside was soft and creamy.

Bread pudding is closely related to the Italian dish, strata. The difference is that stratas are typically made with more eggs than cream, making them eggier and more breakfasty—kin to a frittata or a quiche rather than a custard.

The same ingredients can be used with all. The differences are in the proportions, and a strata traditionally uses milk instead of cream.

A soufflé dish or casserole makes the nicest presentation at the table, but you can make bread pudding in a baking pan. Another nice touch is individual servings, made in ramekins, custard cups, or even muffin pans.

If you don’t like mushrooms and radicchio, substitute the same quantity of ingredients you do like; or check out the recipes in the photos or the list below.

TIP: Proteins—chicken, meats, shellfish, smoked fish—are delicious add-ins. Dice or shred leftovers and toss them in.
 
 
RECIPE: MUSHROOM & RADICCHIO SAVORY BREAD PUDDING

This recipe hails from San Francisco, courtesy of Tartine Bakery’s Chad Robertson and Good Eggs, the Bay Area’s premium grocery delivery service.

You can assemble the dish a day ahead and refrigerate it, letting it come to room temperature before baking.

Prep time is 25 minutes, and cook time is 50 minutes. Bake the pudding an hour before you plan to serve it.

Ingredients For 4-6 Brunch Servings

 
Preparation

1. PREHEAT the oven to 375°F. While the oven heats…

2. MELT the butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the leeks and sauté until soft, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the wine and cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the wine evaporates—about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.

3. HEAT a large, heavy-bottomed skillet over high heat. Add enough oil to coat the bottom of the pan. When the oil is smoking, arrange the mushrooms cut-side down in the pan and cook without stirring until they are seared and caramelized, about 1 minute more. Stir the mushrooms; add the radicchio and cook until it is wilted, about 1 minute. Season to taste. Remove from the heat.
 
________________

*Semihard cheese is a classification based on the weight and texture of the body (paste). They are not hard cheeses, like Aged Gouda, Mimolette, or Parmesan, but yield easily to a knife. Examples include Colby, Comte, Edam, Gouda, Jarlsberg, Manchego, Queso Blanco, and “Swiss.”

5. PLACE the bread chunks in an 8-inch soufflé dish and add the leeks, mushrooms, and radicchio. Pour in the custard all the way to the rim. Sprinkle evenly with the ½ cup cheese. Let stand for 8 to 10 minutes until the custard saturates the bread.

6. BAKE until the custard is no longer runny in the center, about 50 minutes. Let the pudding rest for 15 minutes before serving.
 
 
MORE SAVORY BREAD PUDDING RECIPES

 
 
WAYS TO SERVE SAVORY BREAD PUDDING

We love bread pudding as a side with dinner: roast chicken, seared salmon, pork chops, etc. It’s a more interesting relative of stuffing/dressing.

But consider these uses:

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A new book, The Case Against Sugar, is pretty; scary.

For a synopsis, read the review in The New York Times. The one-sentence message: Beyond our diabetes and obesity epidemics (had these been infectious diseases, according to the book, sugar is probably related to heart disease, hypertension, many common cancers and Alzheimer’s.

But we’re not here to scare you. we’re here to offer one of our favorite work-arounds to eat less sugar: mini cupcakes with much less frosting.

Mini cupcakes are nothing new. It’s easy to find them, whether for kids or as an alternative to regular cupcakes, that are three- or four-times the size.

But rather than buy some average cupcake made with some average mix—even at a cupcake boutique—they’re so much better when you make them with your favorite cake recipe.

(Disclosure: We don’t like airy, fluffy cakes, preferring more dense styles like carrot cake, banana bread with chocolate chunks and chocolate cake enriched with sour cream).

This recipe from Kraft uses a cake mix for this recipe, but you can use your own.

Prep time is 20 minutes, bake time is 12 minutes; total time is about an hour.

RECIPE #1: CARROT CAKE MINI CUPCAKES

Ingredients For 48 Mini Cupcakes

 
For The Frosting
(See Our Alternative Frostings Below)

 
Plus

 
Preparation

1. PREPARE the cake batter as directed on the package. Spoon into 48 paper-lined mini muffin cups. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the centers comes out clean.

2. COOL in the pans 10 minutes. Remove to wire racks and cool completely. As the cupcakes cool…

3. MAKE the frosting. Beat the butter and cream cheese in medium bowl with mixer until creamy. Blend in the vanilla. Gradually add the sugar, mixing well after each addition. Spread onto the cupcakes.

ALTERNATIVE FROSTINGS

Use a small (flat) amount of anything you like. The biggest caloric bargain is aerosol whipped cream, such as Reddi-Wip, at 15 calories per tablespoon.

The idea is simply to spread it with a spatula, not mound it on! Some cupcakes can seem like a base for eating frosting!

 
Garnish

For color, flavor, and minuscule calories, top with a berry.
________________

[1] For smaller portions, turn your favorite cake into mini cupcakes. The recipe for these carrot cake minis is below (photo courtesy Kraft). [2] The next step is to minimize the frosting. Chocolate ganache requires just a smear, not a pile (here’s the recipe from Life In The Lofthouse). [3] Another icing tip: Whipped cream has fewer calories because of all that air (photo courtesy Rose Bakes). [4] For the finale, add a fresh berry (here’s the recipe for these angel food cupcakes from Cooking Classy).

We love stabilized whipped cream as a frosting and filling. It holds its shape for two days without collapsing.

The stabilizing agent is typically stabilized with gelatin. Here, we use cream cheese.

As you can guess, it’s richer in flavor and texture when you substitute cream cheese.

This recipe makes enough to frost a cake; but there are only four tablespoons of sugar in all five cups!

Add cocoa powder for chocolate frosting/filling.

Ingredients For Five Cups

 
Preparation

1. WHIP the cream cheese in a small bowl until soft and aerated. In a larger, chilled bowl, whip the cream until it forms soft, collapsible peaks that.

2. ADD the cream cheese to the cream and continue whipping on high speed until the mixture forms stiff peaks. Beat in the sugar, vanilla and optional cocoa powder.

3. REFRIGERATE until ready to use.

[2] A tricolor rice dish made from white rice, using vegetables for color (photo © Nephroplus).

[2] These are the natural colors of brown rice (photos #2, #3, #4 and #5 © rice specialist In Harvest).

[3] Black rice, also called forbidden rice.

[4] Red rice, also called Bhutanese red rice.

[5] Green bamboo rice is white rice infused with bamboo extract, combining the health benefits of chlorophyll with a delightful color

September is National Rice Month, so here’s an eye-catching recipe that’s impressive for special occasions. We’ll get to the recipe in a minute, but first: All rice starts as a whole grain, which means that the germ and bran layer are intact. When these are removed, you have white rice.

The most common bran layer for rice is brown; remove it and you have white rice. But there are also red and black rice brans. The darker the bran layer, the more nutritional value the rice has.

Some rices are only partially milled, so some of the bran layer is left on. These rices tend to be light tan, pink or even a striated color. Our Madagascar Pink Rice is an example of rice that is partially milled. It still retains a high level of nutrition, but cooks faster and has a texture that is closer to white rice.

But you don’t have to by naturally colored rices to serve colored rice. You can color white rice with vegetables, as in the recipe below.

Tricolor rice is a popular dish in India, but we haven’t yet seen it in the U.S.—probably because it’s a bit more work.

We did find a sweet dessert version to join the savory rice below.

You don’t have to use Indian flavors if it’s not your thing. Just add your own favorite herbs and spices, using the recipe template as a guide.

> The different types of rice: a glossary.

> The history of rice.
 
> 40+ more rice recipes.
 
 
RECIPE: TRICOLOR RICE

This special-occasion recipe from Nephroplus.com as an Indian specialty called a rice sandwich.

Since most of us in the U.S. don’t want to labor over six individual servings, we made it in one large Pyrex bowl.

Prep time is 25 minutes, cook time is 25 minutes, baking time is 20 to 25 minutes. The wonderful aroma will have everyone waiting in anticipation!

Ingredients For 6 Servings

For The Orange Rice

 
For The White Rice

 
For The Green Rice

 
For The Green Paste

 
Plus

 
Preparation

For The Orange Rice

1. COMBINE the tomatoes and 2 tablespoons of water in a deep non-stick pan. Cook over a medium flame for 5 to 7 minutes or till the tomatoes are soft.

2. BLEND the tomatoes in a blender to a smooth pulp and strain it using a strainer; set aside.

3. HEAT the ghee in a wide non-stick pan. Add the onions and sauté over a medium flame for 1 minute. Add the carrots and sauté for 1 more minute. Add the prepared tomato pulp, green chiles, sugar and salt. Mix well and cook on a medium flame for 2 minutes.

 
4. ADD the rice, mix well and cook over a medium flame for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Set aside.
 
For The White Rice

1. HEAT the ghee in a wide non-stick pan and add the caraway seeds. When the seeds crackle, add the green chiles and sauté on a medium flame for 30 seconds.

2. ADD the rice and paneer, mix well and cook over a medium flame for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Set aside.
 
For The Green Rice

1. HEAT the ghee in a wide non-stick pan. Add the onions and sauté on a medium flame for 1 minute.

2. ADD the green paste and again sauté over a medium flame for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the rice, green peas and salt, mix well and cook for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Set aside.
 
To Assemble

1. PREHEAT the oven to 360°F. Grease a microwave safe baking bowl with oil and spread the green rice evenly over it using the back of a spoon. Add the white rice and spread it evenly using the back of a spoon. Top with the orange rice and spread it evenly using the back of a spoon.

2. POUR the milk evenly over the rice, cover the bowl with a lid and bake for 15 to 20 minutes (or microwave on high for 5 to 7 minutes).

3. SERVE: Turn the bowl upside down on a serving plate. Serve immediately.
 
 

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January 21st is National New England Clam Chowder Day, with a cream base. There is no National Manhattan Clam Chowder Day, honoring the tomato-base version; but you can have your choice of recipes on February 25th, a generic National Clam Chowder Day.

There are actually 5 yearly clam holidays:

 
We start with the history of chowder, followed below by:

> A delicious clam chowder recipe.

> The different types of clam chowder.

> The different types of soup.

> The history of fried clams.

Elsewhere on The Nibble:

> The year’s 18+ soup and stew holidays.

> The different types of soup.

> The history of soup.
 
 
THE HISTORY OF CHOWDER

Chowder is a type of soup (see below for the major categories) made with potatoes and onions. It can include clams or other seafood, chicken, corn and creative variations.

A friend of ours has an old family recipe from Maine for a haddock chowder. Feel free to combine fish and shellfish. How about a surf-and-turf chowder with both chicken and fish or shellfish?

The word chowder has its roots in the Latin calderia, which originally meant a hearth for warming things and later came to mean a cooking pot. The word evolved to cauldron, which in French became chaudiere, a word that easily became chowder in English.

The first chowders in our culture were fish chowders, made in cauldrons in fishing villages along the coast of France and in the Cornwall region of Southwestern England. When the fishermen came to the New World, they found clams in huge supply along the northern Atlantic coast, and clam chowder was born.

Celebrate today—or any day demanding a hearty soup—with this yummy clam chowder.
 
 
RECIPE: NEW ENGLAND CLAM CHOWDER

This one-pot recipe, adapted from Bon Appetit, can be made a day in advance, up to Step 5. Bring the chowder to a simmer before adding the clams on the second day.

Substitutes:

 
Ingredients For 8 One-Cup Servings

 
Preparation

1. BRING the clams and water to a boil in a large pot over high heat. Cook until the clams are just open, 8-10 minutes; discard any that do not open. Drain, reserving the broth. Transfer the clams to a baking pan, rimmed sheet or platter; let cool until comfortable to handle, remove the meat, and discard the shells. This step can be done 1 day ahead. Cover the clams and broth separately and refrigerate.

2. CHOP the clams into bite-size pieces. Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve set over a large bowl. Add water to measure 6 cups.

3. MELT the butter in a large heavy pot over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, until the fat is rendered and the bacon begins to brown, about 8 minutes. Add the celery, onion, and garlic. Cook, stirring often, until the onion is translucent, about 10 minutes.

4. ADD the reserved broth, potatoes, thyme, and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer and cook until the potatoes are tender, 20-25 minutes.

5. COMBINE the cornstarch with 2 tablespoons of water in a small bowl to form a slurry, and stir it into the chowder. Return the chowder to a boil to thicken. DO day ahead. Let cool; discard the bay leaf.

6. STIR in the clams and cream. Taste and season with salt as needed (some clams are brinier than others) and pepper; or allow diners to season their own. Divide the chowder among bowls. Garnish with chives or parsley. Serve with oyster crackers.
________________

*Discard any uncooked clams with broken or opened shells; these can collect bacteria. Conversely, discard any cooked clams with shells that have not opened.

†Substitute Baby Dutch potatoes or other waxy potato (here are the different types of potatoes).
________________

THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF CLAM CHOWDER
 

 
 
(Continue Below For The Different Types Of Soup)

[2] Some recipes are heavier on the cream, but that gives you more cream flavor, less clam-vegetable flavor (photo © Mackenzie Ltd.).

[3] Clam chowder in individual bread bowls (photo © Chabasco Bakery).

[4] The clam chowder recipe with bacon. Here’s the recipe (photo © Bon Appetít).

[5] A beautiful Manhattan Clam Chowder from an Australian cooking competition (photo © MasterChef).

[6] Rhode Island Clam Chowder has a clear base. Here’s the recipe from The New York Times (photo © The New York Times).

[7] Sweet-flesh razor clams can look exotic, yet beautiful, in a clam chowder (photo © The Fish Society).

 
________________
 
‡July 3rd, National Fried Clam Day, commemorates the creation of the modern fried clam by restaurant owner Lawrence “Chubby” Woodman of Essex, Massachusetts, in 1916. November 1st, National Deep Fried Clams Day, is a similar observance whose specific origin is unclear. But with two different days to celebrate fried clams, who’s complaining?
 

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