[1] Citrus: the jewels of winter fruit (photo © Heather Gill | Wesual | Unsplash).

[2] Mixed citrus slices, garnishes for beverages and plated foods (photo © Edgar Castrejon | Unsplash).

[3] Citron, one of the three original citrus fruits (along with mandarin orange and pomelo) from which all other citrus was bred (photo courtesy San Pellegrino Fruit Beverages).

[4] Pomelo, an ancestor of grapefruit (photos © #4 and #7 Good Eggs).

[5] Winter salad of mixed citrus, arugula and ricotta salata. Here’s the recipe from Saveur.

[6] Kumquats are another winter citrus. They were historically their own genus (Citrus fortunella) with multiple species, but today they are often classified as Citrus japonica. There are also related hybrids† (photo © Melissa’s Produce).

Through Mother Nature and breeding by mankind, some plants and animals have grown larger and larger over time. Big beefsteak tomatoes evolved from a fruit the size of a cherry tomato; the original pig was the size of a cat.

The large citrus fruits of today evolved over millions of years from small, edible berries. Their origin is believed to be either southeastern Asia or Australia [source].

The three original species in the citrus genus—citron (photo #1), mandarins and pomelo/pummelo—have been hybridized into most of the modern commercial citrus fruits we know.

Within the last few thousand years, all common citrus fruits (grapefruit, lemons, limes, sweet oranges, etc.) were created by crossing those original species.

> The year’s 40+ citrus holidays are below.

> The history of grapefruits.

> The history of lemons.

> The history of limes.

> The history of oranges.

> The history of mandarins.

> The difference between mandarins and oranges.

> The different types of lemons: a photo glossary.

> The different types of limes: a photo glossary.
 
 
CELEBRATE WINTER CITRUS

The winter months deliver certain varieties of citrus that aren’t available in other seasons.

Blood oranges, cara cara oranges and ruby red grapefruit are among our favorite fruits. Here, from Good Eggs of San Francisco, are the California-grown fruits you should add to your shopping cart.

You can enjoy these beauties in:

 
 
A NOTE ABOUT MANDARINS

Just as blood, cara cara and navel are different varieties of sweet oranges in the citrus genus (Citrus × sinensis), mandarins are a separate species.

Mandarins (Citrus reticulata) are loose-skinned fruits with segments that separate easily. Some of the better-known varieties are clementines, dancys, minneolas, tangerines and satsumas.

While many people call them mandarin oranges—erroneously combine both species—the correct name is mandarin or mandarins.

Think of them as cousins to oranges; and think of clementines, tangerines, satsumas and other mandarins as siblings.
 
 
MEET THE CITRUS

[7] Major types of U.S. citrus.

 
 
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*Hand fruit is the industry term for fruit that can be eaten from the hand: apples, bananas, oranges, pears, etc. Fruits that are not hand fruit: coconuts, cranberries, melons, pineapples, quinces, etc.

†Though not strictly Citrus japonica, many hybrids with kumquats exist including calamondin (mandarin x kumquat), limequat (lime × kumquat), orangequat (orange × kumquat), and yuzuquat (yuzu × kumquat).

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Brighten up winter meals with splashes of color.

You can do that with sides like beets, red cabbage slaw and winter squash. But you can also employ colorful garnishes and condiments.

Green garnishes like parsley and mint have been used for…centuries? millennia?

Here are brighter recommendations in orange, red and yellow:

 
 
We know there are other options out there, so feel free to add to this list!

[2] A line of sauce droplets on the left and piment d’espelette on the right.<
[2] A plain brown sausage enlivened with a mustard zigzag, chile sauce and shishito peppers (photo courtesy Pain d’Avignon).

[2] Red quinoa fried rice topped with an egg, at P.F. Chang’s.

[3] Quinoa tabbouheh, at Andina Restaurant | Portland (photo by Eric Cable).

[4] Harvesting red quinoa: back-breaking work (photo courtesy Tru Roots).

[5] Three styles of quinoa pasta from Pereg Gourmet.

[6] Quinoa spaghetti with spinach and cherry tomatoes. Here’s the recipe (photo © Bon Appetít).

For more than five years, quinoa (pronounced KEEN-wah) has been an “it” food in the U.S. It has been embraced by those seeking more healthful alternatives. It’s a complete protein, meaning it contains all the essential amino acids (more about that below).

Quinoa is thought of as a grain, but it is neither grain nor cereal but a pseudocereal. Rather, it is a type of seed. It’s gluten free and is often used in place of rice or couscous.

Cereals (barley, corn, rice, wheat, etc.) are grasses. A pseudocereal is not a grass, but is used in much the same way. The seeds can be ground into flour or otherwise used as cereals. Other examples of pseudocereals are amaranth and buckwheat.

High in protein, nutrients and vitamins, pseudocereals are typically gluten free and analogous to whole grains, even though they aren’t related. They are members of the spinach, chard and beet family.

National Quinoa Day is January 16th, and National Whole Grains Day is November 16th.

> The year’s 35+ grain holidays.

> More ancient grains.

> How about some quinoa pasta (below)?

> Check out the recipes, also below.
 
 
QUINOA HISTORY: NATIVE TO THE ANDES

Quinoa is native to the Andes mountain region of South America. It is harvested from a species of a plant called goosefoot (here’s more about goosefoot), and is grown commercially for its nutritious seeds.

Quinoa has been farmed for thousands of years and was an important food in the Andes. The ancient Incas called quinoa the “mother grain” and saw it as a sacred seed.

Traditions paid tribute to its nutrition and other benefits. The first quinoa seed of each year was planted with a golden shovel by the Inca leader [source].

In Chile, Bolivia and Peru, quinoa is a very popular food and used in a wide variety of recipes including soup, bread, and, even, drinks. They can be combined with grains in any number of ways.
 
 
MODERN QUINOA

Chefs have welcomed the gluten-free grain, turning it into vegetarian burgers, puddings, salads and recipes foods from simple to elegant (see the tabbouleh in photo #3).

They’ve added quinoa to chocolate bars, truffles, and turned it into snack puffs, snack clusters and other foods.

And, they have turned quinoa flour into pasta (more below).

Other parts of the plant are also used. The leaves are eaten as a vegetable.

(Ironically, world demand for quinoa has raised the price so much that the native farmers can’t afford to eat the seeds they grow, and are left with the perishable parts of the plant.)

In many areas around the growing regions, the fruit of the quinoa plant is used as a topical medicine for cuts, sores, and bruises.

Look for it near the rice section in grocery stores, or head to a natural foods store. You can find it in:

 
You’ll find bags of the seeds themselves, microwave quinoa, and quinoa turned into pasta and other foods.
 
 
A COMPLETE PROTEIN

Because it is a complete protein and can be grown worldwide, the U.N. declared 2013 the International Year of Quinoa. Why is a complete protein so important.

The term “complete protein” refers to essential amino acids. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein. There are 20 different amino acids that can form a protein.

Of these, there are nine* that the body can’t produce on its own. These are called essential amino acids: We need to eat them because our bodies can’t make them.

In order to be considered complete, a food must contain all nine of these essential amino acids, in roughly equal amounts.

According to Greatlist, in addition to quinoa, complete proteins include:

 
On the “close but not quite” list are chia and hempseed.

Eggs, meat, milk and other foods deemed to be high in protein don’t come close to complete protein status.

If your year’s resolutions include cutting back on empty carbs like pasta, or eating more gluten-free foods, try quinoa pasta. It’s also egg-free.†

The pasta has the same earthy quality as cooked quinoa seeds.

 
 
QUINOA RECIPES

 
 
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*The nine essential amino acids are  ” rel=”noopener” target=”_blank”>histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, threonine, tryptophan and valine.

†While fresh pasta dough is made from a from flour, water, salt and eggs, dry pasta usually omits the egg. When eggs are added, it is called egg pasta or egg noodles.
 
 

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Three years ago, GQ magazine sent us an article by Lang Whitaker, on how to cook a steak on the stove top.

In the winter, those who grill outside may not be motivated to do so. Households without grills need an inside option. Apartment dwellers may lack ventilation, and set off the smoke alarm trying to grill on the stovetop. Hence, the technique.

Sometimes things get buried in a [digital] pile. Such was the case with this article.

But it’s winter again and a juicy steak is warm comfort food. Here, finally, is the technique, adapted from the original article.

It was designed for people who cook inside in a kitchen without a great ventilation system. Otherwise, cooking a steak on the stovetop, with high heat, can trigger the smoke alarm.

The trick here is to cook for a longer time, with medium heat. A crusty, juicy steak can be cooked on any stove top.
 
 
COOKING A STEAK ON THE STOVE TOP

Ingredients

 
Preparation

1. TAKE the steak from the fridge. You don’t need to let it warm to room temperature. Alain Ducasse recommends first rendering the fat from the sides of the steak, but you don’t need to do this if the steak doesn’t have a lot of fat; and unlike a three-star Michelin chef, if you’re not serving it to high-paying customers.

2. COAT one side of the steak generously with salt and pepper. Put the steak seasoned-side down into the cold, dry pan. Place half of the butter on the side, along with a twig of rosemary and two crushed garlic cloves.

3. TURN on the heat to medium: On a scale of 1-10, it shouldn’t be higher than 6. Let the steak cook for 10 minutes; the butter will melt in the process. Tiny wisps of smoke are O.K., but avoid heavier smoke and sizzling. If that happens, turn the heat down. After 10 minutes…

4. REMOVE the steak from the pan and set it on a plate, cooked side down. Using a paper towel, wipe the pan clean, discarding the garlic and rosemary.

[1] Season the meat (photo courtesy Good Eggs).

[2] Cook and flip (photo courtesy Let The Baking Begin Blog).

[3] Resting, on the way to the dinner plate (photo courtesy Double R Ranch).

6. TILT the pan to a side and spoon some of the hot, flavored butter over the steak. Then flip the steak and do the same with the other side.

7. PLACE the steak on a plate and let it rest for ten minutes before slicing.
 
 
WHY ALL MEAT SHOULD REST AFTER COOKING

As meat cooks, the proteins heat up and set (become firm). The more cooked the meat, the more set the proteins.

This is why chefs can judge the doneness of a steak or chop by pressing a finger on the top. The softer the meat, the more rare it is; the firmer the meat, the more done it is.

When the proteins set, they push the meat’s juices towards the center of the piece. If you cut the cooked meat before resting it, the juices will burst out onto the plate, leaving you with a drier piece of meat.

But if you let the meat stand away from the heat for 10 minutes (longer for roasts and turkeys), resting allows the juices to redistribute throughout the meat. Then, the meat will lose less juice when cut, leaving it far more tender and juicy.
 
 
HOW TO REST MEAT

Remove the meat from the heat and place it on a warm plate or serving platter (we microwave the plate to warm it). Cover the meat loosely with foil. If you cover it tightly, the hot meat will sweat and lose the moisture you are trying to preserve!

The time taken to rest depends on size. A rule of thumb used by some chefs is, 1 minute of resting time for every 3.5 ounces (100g) of meat.

[2] Pissaladière, a specialty of Nice, France, made with niçoise olives, anchovies, onions and Provençal herbs. According to a former mayor of Nice, the layer of onions on a pissaladière should be half as thick as the crust. Here’s the recipe from Saveur.

[3] A baked ziti pizza. The idea is said to have been born as a way to use leftover ziti. Here’s the recipe from Hey That Tastes Good.

[4] Pizza cones. Here’s the recipe from Une Cuillere En Bois (use Translate.Google.com if you don’t read French).

[5] Smoked salmon pizza. Here’s the recipe from Spoon Fork Bacon.

The second week in January is National Pizza Week, February 9th is National Pizza Day/World Pizza Day and October is National Pizza Month.

In fact, there are 11 pizza holidays in the U.S. Here’s the full list.

A couple of years ago, Food Republic sent us a large infografic with a global look at 40 different ways to eat pizza.

We didn’t think the infographic worked in our format, but we [finally!] transcribed it. We present them to you in alphabetical order.

Pick something new to have this week. We’re going for a piece of Maltese pizza, and a piece of Frutti Di Mare chaser. If we knew where to find it, we’d have a sashimi pizza chaser after that.

> The history of pizza.

> All the pizza holidays.
 
 
THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF PIZZA

If not specified, the pies have a conventional crust.

 
 
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*Calzones are basically folded pizzas, made from pizza dough and stuffed with the same ingredients as pizza – almost always tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese, usually ricotta, often pepperoni, and maybe some other cheese and cured meats – and then folded over like an omelet. Stromboli are more like pizza rolls.

†Pizza al taglio or pizza al trancio is a baked in large rectangular trays, and generally sold in rectangular or square slices by weight.

‡According to Wikipedia, “Provel is a white processed cheese particularly popular in St. Louis cuisine, that is a combination of cheddar, Swiss, and provolone cheeses, and tastes nothing like any of them.” It is sold in blocks, like supermarket cheddar, and is “rarely used elsewhere.”

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