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RECIPE: Merlot Hot Chocolate & The History Of Merlot


[1] Splash some Merlot into your hot chocolate for a cold weather warm-up (photos #1 and #4 © California Wine Institute).


[2] Merlot pairs with many foods, including burgers and pizza (photo © Sutter Home).

Wine, Salami, Olives
[3] For an after-work or pre-dinner glass of wine, pair Merlot with your favorite nibbles (photo © Rebelle Restaurant | NYC [now closed]).

[4] If you’d like a red wine with your salmon, choose Merlot or a Pinot Noir.


[5] Merlot is great with braises, like this lamb shank (photo © Grgich Hills Estate | Instagram).

 

International Merlot Day is November 7th, but that was a warm day in our neck of the woods—not an incentive to make hot chocolate.

Today is different: the first snowfall of the year, with a white veil outside and the need to turn up the heat inside.

It’s the perfect opportunity to pop the cork of a bottle of Merlot: first to add to the hot chocolate mid-afternoon snack, and the rest of the bottle later at dinner.

Merlot is one of the great grapes of Bordeaux, but in the U.S. it has often been passed over in favor of Cabernet Sauvignon.

The 2004 film “Sideways,” about two pals visiting the Santa Barbara County wine country, didn’t help. One of them expressed his distaste for Merlot, not once but on several occasions.

Today, California Merlot gets the respect it deserves, and ranks third in California red varietal sales, after Cabernet Sauvignon and red blends (by law, a wine with less than 70% of the varietal grape is called a blend)‡‡.
 
 
MERLOT FOOD PAIRINGS

As compared with the more tannic Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot is soft and approachable when young, with a luscious red-fruit character.

It pairs especially well with:

  • Beef, particularly grilled or roasted
  • Braised meat dishes
  • Cheese, especially Cheddar and Gorgonzola (or other blues), and aged Parmigiano=Reggiano
  • Chicken and turkey, particularly rotisseried or roasted
  • Desserts with chocolate, berries and other fruits, especially berry purées
  • Duck, roasted or sautéed breasts
  • Lamb, grilled or roasted
  • Mushroom dishes
  • Pork, especially roast pork and pork loin
  • Tomatoes dishes and tomato sauces, including pasta sauce
  • Veal, particularly veal chops
  •  
    And you can turn it into wine cocktails, like the following recipe (yes, anything with alcohol in it can be called a cocktail, or a beertail or winetail).

    Download this e-book for more holiday cocktail recipes from Discover California Wines.

    More information about Merlot, its flavors, history and California Merlot, is below.
     
     
    RECIPE: RED WINE HOT CHOCOLATE

    This wine cocktail doubles as dessert. The toasted marshmallows are optional, but highly encouraged (substitute whipped cream).

    If you don’t have time to toast them, use untoasted marshmallows. Here’s how to toast marshmallows without a fireplace.
     
    Ingredients For 6-8 Servings

  • 2 cups dark or semisweet chocolate chips or chopped chocolate bar
  • 1/2 cup brown sugar, packed
  • 1/4 cup cocoa powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
  • 1/8 teaspoon salt
  • 5 cups whole milk
  • 1 750 ml bottle Merlot
  • Garnish: plain or toasted marshmallows and/or whipped cream
  •  
    Preparation

    a. Stovetop Method

    1. WHISK the chocolate chips, brown sugar, cocoa, cinnamon and salt together in a large saucepan or stockpot. Add the milk and bring to a low simmer over medium-low heat, whisking often. Once the hot chocolate is blended and smooth, about 8-10 minutes…

    2. REDUCE to low heat and add the wine. Cook for 5 minutes more. Ladle the hot chocolate into mugs and top with whipped cream or marshmallows.

    b. Slow Cooker Method

    1. WHISK the chocolate chips, brown sugar, cocoa, cinnamon, salt and milk together in a slow cooker set on high. Cover and allow to come to temperature (10-15 minutes), then whisk again and add the wine.

    2. COOK on high for one hour, stopping to whisk every 20 minutes. Ladle the hot chocolate into mugs and top with whipped cream or marshmallows.
     

    THE HISTORY OF MERLOT

    The most famous region for growing the Merlot grape is the Médoc commune of the Bordeaux region of France, where it began.

    The Médoc devotes 40% of its planting space to Merlot grapes*, and Merlot is the third most-planted grape in France. It is used as both a blending grape and for varietal wines.

    Historically, vintners have used Merlot as a blending grape to soften a wine, usually with Cabernet Sauvignon It’s part of a classic Bordeaux blend.

     
    The earliest mention of Merlot is written in the notes of an official in Bordeaux, France in 1784.

    In his document, Merlot was spelled Merlau, and the official noted that the wine was among the best in the area.

    In the 1800s, the spelling Merlot appears. In 1824, an article on the region’s wine mentions that the Merlot grape was named after the local blackbird. Why?

  • Perhaps because local blackbirds loved to eat the ripe Merlot grapes.
  • Perhaps because the grape and its wine was were of similar to the blackbirds.
  • The word for blackbird in the local variant of Occitan language is merlau [source].
  •  
    By the 19th century, Merlot was being regularly planted in the Médoc, on the Left Bank of the Gironde River†, which flows through Bordeaux.

    Today, beyond France, Merlot is planted in Argentina, Australia, Bulgaria, California, Chile, China, Hungary, Italy, Long Island (New York), New Zealand, South Africa, Spain and Switzerland.

    In the late 1990s, researchers at University of California-Davis found that Merlot is an offspring of Cabernet Franc, and is a half-sibling of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère and Malbec. But what grape was the “mother?”

    In the late 2000s, an obscure and unnamed grape variety, discovered growing in an abandoned vineyard in Saint-Suliac in Brittany, was shown by DNA analysis to be the mother of Merlot. It has since been formally registered under the name Magdeleine Noire des Charentes [source].
     
     
    THE FLAVORS OF MERLOT

    Merlot tannins are softer than those of Cabernet Sauvignon, so Merlot wine tends to mature earlier. In other words, you don’t have to let the bottle age as long.

    Merlot is known for its fruit flavors, with notes that can include blackberries, blackcurrants, dried cherries, plums and raspberries. Sometimes, there are also leafy/vegetal notes.

    Depending on the region in which the grapes are grown, there are spicy notes that can include bay leaf, black pepper, cloves and mint.

    Depending on whether the Merlot has been lightly or heavily oaked, it can have flavors of coconut and vanilla (in lightly oaked Merlots); or smoke, oak and tar (in heavily oaked Merlots).

    As the wine ages in the bottle, it can develop deeper flavors, such as coffee, earth, leather and tobacco.
     
     
    THE STYLES OF MERLOT

    While Merlot is made across the globe, there tend to be two main styles.

  • International Style. The “International style,“favored by many New World wine regions, tends to emphasize late harvesting to gain more ripeness. This produces inky, purple-colored wines that are full in body, with intense, plum and blackberry fruit, high alcohol and lush, velvety tannins.
  • Bordeaux Style. While numerous Bordeaux wine producers use the International style, the traditional “Bordeaux style” of Merlot involves harvesting Merlot earlier to maintain acidity. This produces more medium-bodied wines with moderate alcohol levels that have red berry flavors (raspberries, strawberries) and potentially, leafy, vegetal notes [source].
     
    While some small-production, highly-rated wines can sell for up to $200 a bottle—or even thousands, as in the case of Château Petrus—there are numerous affordable bottles in the $20 range.

    Ask your wine clerk for a recommendation.
     
     
    ABOUT CALIFORNIA MERLOT

    The Merlot grape was brought to California in the mid-19th century.

    In the U.S., Merlot has become popular as a varietal wine (one that is largely composed of a single grape variety).

    Most of the Merlot vines in California are planted in Lodi/San Joaquin County, followed by Napa Valley, Monterey, and Sonoma counties.

    These are the locations locations where the terroir‡ is most conducive to producing the best Merlot grapes.

    Merlot wine reached its peak popularity in the U.S. during the 1990s. Then came the Merlot-bashing film “Sideways,” leading to a drop in the wine’s popularity [source].

    But forget that little piece of “history”: If you haven’t been drinking California Merlot, get to know this friendly and delicious varietal.

    ________________

    *The most planted grape used for Bordeaux wine from the Médoc is Cabernet Sauvignon, followed by Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carmenere [source].

    †Technically the Gironde is an estuary: a partly enclosed coastal body of water with one or more rivers flowing into it, and then to the open sea (in this case, the Atlantic Ocean).

    ‡Terroir, pronounced tur-WAH, is a French agricultural term referring to the unique set of environmental factors in a specific habitat that affect a crop’s qualities. It includes climate, elevation, proximity to a body of water, slant of the land, soil type and amount of sun. These environmental characteristics gives a fruit or vegetable its unique character.

    ‡‡As of 2016, Chardonnay is the most planted wine variety at 29%, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon at 22%, Pinot Noir at 18%, Merlot at 14%, Zinfandel at 9% and Sauvignon Blanc at 4%. Note that 53% of the grapes harvested in California are for table grapes and raisins.

     
      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: How To Tell If A Pear Is Ripe…& Ways To Serve Pears

    World Pear Day is December 8th. The history of pears is below.

    Pears are one of the few fruits that don’t ripen successfully on the tree. They’re picked when they have reached full size, but before the onset of ripening.

    It sounds simple: To test if a pear is ripe, apply gentle pressure to the neck area (photo #1). If it gives slightly, it’s most likely ready to be eaten.

    The operant words are most likely. Every so often, you’ll get a pear that simply does not obey the taste test.

    We love a juicy pear; so back in August, we purchased three Anjou pears and left them on the countertop to ripen. Three weeks later they were still as hard as rocks.

    At that point you’d think that we’d have tried the brown paper bag technique, enclosing the pears in the bag to let its ethylene speed up the ripening.

    But no, we were as stubborn as the pears.

    In the fourth week, we detected some softness around the neck. Yay!

    We washed one of the pears and bit into it. Booo!

    It was mostly hard, with the lack of sweetness found in unripe fruit.
     
     
    HOW TO SALVAGE A NOT-YET-RIPE PEAR

    We peeled and sliced the pear, placed it in a bowl, sprinkled it with some Splenda (sparing the sugar calories), and microwaved it for 90 seconds. Close enough.

    The second and third pears we cored, peeled, and baked (the recipe is below). The baked pears can be:

  • Eaten plain, like baked apples (sprinkle the core well with cinnamon sugar). Optional: caramel sauce!
  • Served with a scoop of sorbet or ice cream.
  • Puréed into a sauce for grilled chicken or pork, or for pound cake.
  • Chopped or puréed and added to plain or vanilla yogurt.
  • Used to make a Pear Martini or other cocktail, or to stir into club soda.
  •  
    Peeling is a must! Unlike apple skins, pear skins can toughen up under heat. So peel them before you cook them.

    Prevent browning! As with apples, you can prevent browning by dipping cut pears in acidulated water (water mixed with a little lemon juice or vinegar). This works with European and American pear varieties, but not with crisp-fleshed Asian pears.
     
     
    MORE WAYS TO ENJOY PEARS

    Pears and apples are close cousins, so you can substitute them in any recipe that calls for apples.

    The seasonings are the same, too: cinnamon, clove, ginger, and nutmeg.

    How about:

  • Poached pears, using fruit juice, syrup, wine, or water
  • Desserts: cakes, pies, tarts
  • Condiments: chutneys, jams, preserves
  •  
     
    RECIPE: EASY BAKED PEARS

    Ingredients

  • Pears
  • Sugar or other sweetener
  • Cinnamon
  •  
    Preparation

    1. PREHEAT the oven to 350°F. Peel the pears, slice them in half and scoop out the core with a melon baller. Place face up on a baking sheet.

    2. SPRINKLE the core well with (as you prefer), sugar, cinnamon, honey, and chopped nuts. We sprinkle the well with cinnamon sugar, then drizzle the top with honey and sprinkle with the nuts. For a diet version, a simple Splenda/cinnamon seasoning is also delicious.

    3. BAKE for 30 minutes; then set aside until cool enough to eat, or let cool completely.
     

    THE HISTORY OF PEARS

    The pear tree is a medium-sized tree that grows in mildly temperate regions worldwide (photo #4).

    It’s a member of the Rosaceae family, also known as the rose family. Roses are members, of course, but so are popular edibles such as almonds, apples, berries, loquats, pears, quince, and stone fruits.

    According to USA Pears, some 3,000 varieties of pears are cultivated worldwide.

    Consumers enjoy them as hand fruit, cooked, canned, or juice; they can be pickled or dried; they can be made into perry (the pear version of hard cider), liqueur, or other spirits.

    How Long Has Mankind Been Eating Pears

    The genus Pyrus, representing all pears, is thought to have originated in present-day Western China.

    From there it spread north, south, east, and west, evolving into what became a diverse group of some 30 species.

    In Europe, there is evidence of pear consumption since prehistoric times. Many traces of pears have been found in a prehistoric excavation around Lake Zurich.

    Those were wild pears, small and round. The pears we know today are the result of millennia of selective breeding.

  • Pears were cultivated in China as early as 2000 B.C.E.
  • Pears were also cultivated by the Romans, who ate the fruits raw and cooked, just like apples.
  • Pliny The Elder’s “Natural History,” published in 77 C.E., noted three dozen varieties. He recommended stewing pears with honey.
  • The Roman cookbook “De re coquinaria” (the first extant cookbook, written in the 4th or 5th century C.E.) features a recipe for a spiced, stewed pear dish.
  •  


    [1] A pear can be rosy, but not yet ripe (photo © Melissa’s Produce | Facebook).


    [2] Sliced pears are a finger-food snack. Add them to green salads for a sweet note (photos #2 and #3 © USA Pears).


    [3] Have a pear tasting: Gather different varieties and compare.


    [4] Pear blossoms: Green buds become white as the weather warms, sometimes a month into spring (photo © Guy Levert | Unsplash).


    [5] An Anjou pear grows on a tree (photo © Christian Holzinger | Unsplash).


    [6] A Forelle pear waiting to be picked (photo © Bram Neus | Unsplash).

     
    The Name “Pear”

    The word pear likely derives from the Germanic pera, from the Vulgar Latin pira. Go back further, before ancient Greek to the Semitic languages, and you’ll find the word pirâ, meaning fruit.

    Pera led to poire in French, peer in Dutch, pera in Spanish and Italian, paere in Danish, paron in Swedish.

    In Spanish, “Esto es la pera,” translated to “This is the pear,” refers to a particularly wonderful or enjoyable situation or experience.

    The adjective pyriform or piriform means pear-shaped.
     
     
    Pears In Europe

    The European pear is believed to have originated in the general region of the southern Caucasus and northeastern Anatoli, as did the apple.

    It has grown there since prehistoric times. Dried slices of pear have been unearthed in Swiss cave dwellings from the Ice Age.

    The first Western mention of the pear is found in Homer’s “The Odyssey,” written in the 9th century B.C.E.

    Around 300 B.C.E. the Greek writer Theophrastus wrote about the cultivation of pears. Two centuries later, in Rome, Pliny the Elder described 41 varieties.

    The Romans ate pears, like apples, both raw and cooked: poached in wine, conserved in grape syrup, and dried for winter consumption.

    The less attractive fruits were made into perry (pear cider), or into pear vinegar or pear liquamen, a vegetarian alternative to garum, the popular fish sauce condiment.

    The Byzantines served pears in jelly, pear preserves, and pears cooked in wine or in oxymel, a syrup of honey and vinegar.

    The Romans spread pear cultivation throughout Europe.

    Pears were prized for dessert, both cooked and raw. They were a favorite fruit of Louis XIV (1643-1715). In the 17th century pear growing in France was at its height and many new varieties were developed.

    Henry III of England ((1207-1272) received gifts of pears from La Rochelle-Normande in northwest France. They were presented to the king by the sheriffs of the City of London [source].

    There are no native American pears. Pears were introduced to America in 1629 when the Massachusetts Company ordered pear seeds from England.

    Because of its unique growing conditions, American pears became even more diverse than their European ancestors. Many good, purely American strains were developed, including Bartlett and Seckel cultivars.

    In New England during the 19th century, an extraordinary degree of enthusiasm for pears developed—so remarkable that it earned the name ‘“Pearmania*” [source: Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press: Oxford] 1999 (p. 590)].
     
     
    Pears In Asia

    Asian pears are different from European pears: uniform in color (yellowish-tan) and shaped more like apples. They have a completely different texture and taste: crisp, grainy, crunchy flesh and do not get succulently juicy and sweet like Western varieties.

    They are not generally baked or made into jams because they have high water content; but are commonly served raw and peeled.

    In Asia, the cultivation of pears goes back some 2,500–3,000 years and has been chronicled in Chinese writings from at least 1,200 years ago.

    Along with the peach and apricot, the pear was long considered a delicacy, enjoyed by the wealthy.

    In Japan, the earliest evidence of pears is much later, around 200–300 C.E. But in 1860, near the end of the Edo period, more than 150 cultivars had been recorded and pear was widely planted [source: Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press: Oxford] 1999 (p. 590)].

    East or West, the original wild pear varieties have been developed into what are now nearly 3,000 varieties worldwide.
     
     
    ________________

    *Throughout history, pears have been food for the wealthier classes. They were cultivated in great estates and relished by nobles throughout Europe. New England’s “Pearmania” (circa 1820-1870) was a pastime of the upper class. Gentlemen farmers vied to produce the most luscious specimens of fine pears. Their prized pears were not for sale; they were for family and honored guests.

    Men savored the pears in the library as an occasion for male bonding and connoisseurship—much as in later periods they played golf and smoked cigars.

    It is interesting to note that New England cookbooks published during this period contain very few pear recipes. Stewed pears and pear tarts are the norms. One might infer that pears were not plentiful among the middle class.

    Once California started shipping tons of fruit by rail car to the east in the late 19th century, pears were more plentiful and interest in the pear as a status symbol diminished [source: Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith editor in chief [Oxford University Press: New York] 2004, Volume 1 (p. 530)].
     
     

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    RECIPE: Christmas Mocktail


    [1] A pomegranate spritz—juice and club soda—is a non-alcoholic alternative to holiday cocktails (photo © Rawpixel | Pexels).


    [2] Festive, biodegradable paper straws. These are available on Amazon (photo © Ououps).

     

    Here’s a holiday beverage that’s non-alcoholic, fun, even good for you.

    For those who don’t drink alcohol, or don’t want any more of it at the moment, this flavorful mocktail hits the spot.

    You can use either cranberry or pomegranate juice; we think pomegranate juice is more special given the seasonal cranberry overload.

  • Pomegranate juice contains higher levels of antioxidants than most other fruit juices. It also has three times more antioxidants than red wine and green tea [source].
  • While cranberry juice is also high in antioxidants, pomegranate juice is by far the best of any juice because it contains the highest levels of nearly every antioxidant [source].
  •  
    You can give guests an option for a short or tall drink. If you only want to serve drinks in rocks glasses, you don’t need straws.
     
     
    RECIPE: HOLIDAY MOCKTAIL

    Ingredients

  • Pomegranate juice (Knudsen’s or Pom Wonderful)
  • Sparkling mixer: club soda (consider a lime flavor for more flavor)
  • Ice cubes
  • Garnish: fresh mint
  • Optional garnish: squeeze of fresh lime
  • Optional garnish: pomegranate arils
  • Optional: festive paper straw
  •  
    Preparation

    1. CHILL the juice and club soda. Keep in an ice bucket if they’ll be out on a bar or counter while you entertain.

    2. ADD ice to an Old Fashioned/Collins glass or a rocks glass, and fill halfway with club soda. Squeeze in the lime, if desired. Garnish and serve with a festive straw.

     

     
      

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    HOLIDAY GIFT: Nutcracker Ballet-Themed Chocolate

    Here’s something special for balletomanes and ballet students who like dark chocolate bonbons:

    Delysia’s Nutcracker Chocolate Collection.

    Only 50 boxes of this seasonal edition have been made.

    The 16-piece truffle collection contains four each of themed chocolates inspired by the holiday ballet.

    The images atop each chocolate are charming.

    And the centers are beautifully flavored:

  • Vintage Christmas Tree: rosemary orange chocolate truffles
  • Nutcracker: lebkuchen chocolate truffles
  • Sugar Plum Fairy: plum pudding chocolate truffles
  • Mouse King: Russian tea cake† chocolate truffles
  •  
    HEAD TO DELYSIA CHOCOLATE to claim yours!
     
     
    > Truffles Vs Bonbons Vs Chocolates
     
     
    ________________

    *Lebkuchen is a honey-sweetened, spiced German cake, molded cookie or bar cookie that has become part of Germany’s Christmas traditions. Since “The Nutcracker” originated in Germany, it’s very appropriate to this collection.

    Traditional spices include allspice, aniseed, cardamom, cloves, coriander and ginger. Nuts (almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts) and candied fruit are also included.

    †Russian tea cakes are simple cookies, often called butterball cookies in the U.S. The flour, water, butter and sugar are mixed with ground nuts and formed into balls. After baking, the cookies are rolled in powdered sugar.

     


    [1] A box of 16 memorable chocolate truffles*, a limited edition from Delysia Chocolatier (photos © Delysia Chocolatier).


    [2] Close-up; from the top, Nutcracker, Sugar Plum Fairy, Mouse King.

     

      

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    STOCKING STUFFER: Earth To Skin Fruit-Scented Hand Sanitizer


    [1] Easy to carry in a pocket, you can keep different scents in purses, gym bags, etc. Above: Watermelon hand sanitizer (all photos © Earth To Skin).


    [2] The inexpensive six-pack lets you hand out little gifties to your friends, colleagues and helpers. Above: Blueberry hand sanitizer.


    [3] Lemon + Basil hand sanitizer, like all of the varieties, has a refreshing aroma.

     

    Here’s a perfect food-related stocking stuffer for these times:

    Hand sanitizer with different food scents!

    Earth To Skin has added something special to their moisturizing hand sanitizer: fruit scents.

    Like other fine sanitizers, Earth To Skin’s reduces the bacteria that potentially can cause disease, by killing 99.99% of many common harmful germs and bacteria.

    In two-ounce sizes, these mini-sanitizers are sold in a 6-pack bundle exclusively at Walmart.com, for just $4.99 (and are NextDay eligible).

    The scents include:

  • Blueberry
  • Coconut
  • Lemon + Basil
  • Watermelon
  • Plus…Unscented
  •  
    They are 72% ethyl alcohol, along with moisturizing aloe.

    Click on the individual links above; or here’s the whole line.
     
    We’re handing them out to everyone, including the people who help us year-round: hairdressers, letter carriers, package delivery people, etc.

    And, we’ll be buying enough of a supply to enjoy them long after the holiday season.
     
     
    SOME HAND SANITIZER HISTORY

    Alcohol has been used as an antiseptic at least 1363. Alcohol-based hand sanitizer has been commonly used in Europe since at least the 1980s.

    While there are non-alcohol-based versions that typically contain benzalkonium chloride or triclosan; they are less effective than alcohol-based ones

    The alcohol-based version is on the World Health Organization’s List of Essential Medicines, the safest and most effective medicines needed in a health system [source].

    Purell hand sanitizer, the first American brand, was invented in 1988 and introduced to the consumer market in 1997.

    Its primary component is 70% ethyl alcohol [source].

     

     
      

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