THE NIBBLE BLOG: Products, Recipes & Trends In Specialty Foods


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TIP OF THE DAY: Dried Herbs Vs. Fresh Herbs

In most cases, we find that fresh herbs add so much more zing to cooking than dried herbs. We live in an apartment and have pots of them growing on the kitchen windowsill.

But when the cold comes, the herbs die off and our farmers markets won’t have replacements until spring. The solution: buying greenhouse-raised fresh herbs for a premium price.

So when and how should you pay for fresh herbs?

The truth is that when most herbs are dried, they lose at least some of their flavor and aroma.

  • The woody herb group is often just as good dried as fresh. Bay leaf, oregano, thyme, rosemary and sage tend to work as well (or almost as well) dried as fresh. Save your money and use dried herbs.
  • Soft herbs are better fresh. Basil, chives, cilantro, mint and parsley lose much of their magic once they’ve been dried. Spring for the fresh versions.
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    Woody herbs like rosemary are often as flavorful whether fresh or dried. Photo courtesy Burpee.

     
    WHEN TO USE FRESH HERBS

  • When you want bright flavor: in eggs, salad dressings, sauces and other dishes that are made and served immediately. and other quick dishes since dried herbs don’t have enough time to really infuse these kinds of dishes.
  • In special dishes where the complexity of flavor counts. Most people like turkey stuffing whether the herbs are fresh or dried; but fresh sage is magical to us. Even though dried sage is a pretty good substitute, we always buy fresh sage for our stuffing, and use the rest in appetizers (stuffed mushroom caps, for example) and other recipes.
  • If you have too many leftover fresh herbs: freeze them! First strip leaves from woody stems. You can also freeze them in ice cube trays, covered with some vegetable or chicken broth, and pop the frozen cubes right into the recipe. You can also add one to the dish when you’re reheating leftovers.(After the cubes freeze, remove them to heavy plastic storage bags.)
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    For best flavor, woody herbs like rosemary
    and oregano can be either fresh or dried.
    Photo courtesy McCormick.
     

    WHEN TO USE DRIED HERBS

  • Dried herbs begin to open up when they meet moisture, and their flavors continue to grow over time. That’s why they are best to use in dishes that take a day or two for the flavors to infuse—soups and stews, for example.
  • Dried herbs need to be added early to the recipe so their flavor has time to infuse. Add them late in the preparation and they don’t open up as well.
  • Not all dried herbs are the same quality. Often, the jumbo bargain sizes at club stores don’t pack the same punch as a supermarket jar of McCormick. McCormick itself has a special “gourmet collection” line with the choicest herbs.
  • Check your dried herbs and spices annually; but if they no longer give off a nice aroma, it’s probably time to buy a new jar. Here’s how to check dried herbs and spices for freshness.
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    TIPS

  • Use herbs at the end of cooking for fresh, bright flavor. We snip fresh basil, chives or parsley over pasta, soup, vegetables—just about anything.
  • Dried herbs have a more concentrated flavor, fresh herbs have a better aroma and brighter flavor. Don’t use them in equal proportions.
  • Substitution ratio: Use 1-1/2 times the amount of fresh herbs as dry herbs: 1-1/2 teaspoons fresh sage = 1 teaspoon dried sage.
  • If it pains you to throw out dried herbs that are past their prime, buy a fresh bottle to use where it counts and start adding the older herbs to dishes where any flavor or color: scrambled eggs, omelets, canned soup, grilled vegetables, rice, dips, etc.

      

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    GIFT: Downton Abbey Wines

    When Mr. Carson pulled a bottle of wine from the cellar for Lord and Lady Grantham, it was invariably a fine claret (Bordeaux), the wine of choice among the British nobility of Edwardian England. With fish, a “blanc” made from the Sémillon grape was served.

    So is it a surprise that the hit show “Downton Abbey”—120 million viewers worldwide—has engendered a licensing deal for “Chateau” Downton Abbey?

    While the nobility would never have commissioned “private label” wines with their family names and crests, the conceit is amusing to us moderns.

    We haven’t tasted it, but the caliber of the wine is probably not quite what the Crawleys enjoyed. Yet, the fun factor is up there and at $14.99 per bottle, you can afford it. Think of it as a gift for any Downton Abbey fan, or a fun surprise for Thanksgiving dinner.

     
    Food fun: Downton Abbey wines. Photo courtesy Downton Abbey Wine.
     
    The Downton Abbey Wine collection is made by Grands Vins de Bordeaux, a 130-year-old family-owned operation in the Entre-Deux-Mers region of Bordeaux. While not well known in the U.S., the appellation is one of the largest in the Bordeaux region, and produces three quarters of the red wine sold under the generic Bordeaux AOC or Bordeaux Supérieur labels.

    Downton Abbey Wines are available online at Wine.com and DowntonAbbeyWine.com, and at selected wine retailers nationwide.

    Don’t forget to don white gloves before you pour.

      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Add Color To Thanksgiving


    Surround beige foods with colorful garnishes.
    Photo courtesy iGourmet.
     

    Thanksgiving can be a pretty brown-and-beige affair: turkey, gravy, potatoes, stuffing, biscuits, pumpkin and pecan pies. Only cranberry sauce and vegetables such as brussels sprouts and green beans add a splash of color. Sweet potatoes are a vibrant orange, but not every family serves them.

    Think ahead, and you can add a splash of color to every course, whether as an individual food garnish or plate/platter decoration:

  • Green: baby artichokes, herbs (basil, cilantro, parsley, sage), grapes, sugar snap peas
  • Orange: bell pepper strips, carrots (baby carrots, sliced carrots), kumquats, grape tomatoes, orange wedges and peel
  • Purple: grapes, Peruvian potatoes
  • Red: bell pepper strips, cranberries, cherry tomatoes, figs, grapes/champagne grapes, grape tomatoes, lady apples, mini red jacket potatoes, pomegranate arils, radicchio, radishes, red onion
  • Yellow: bell pepper strips, lemon wedges and peel, miniature pattypan squash, star fruit (carambola)
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    You can also find seasonal specialty items, like red walnuts and red scallions.

    Do you have a favorite garnish? Let us know.

      

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    GIFT: Neuhaus Haut Pâtisserie Collection

    You know something is really good when, the minute you finish it you want another.

    We don’t know what the chocolates tasted like when the company was founded in 1857; but Neuhaus Chocolates’s new “Haute Pâtisserie” collection is the best Neuhaus chocolate we’ve ever tasted, and stands on the podium with the finest chocolates in the world.

    “Haut pâtisserie” means high-class pastry, a reference to the nine internationally-reknowned pastry chefs/chocolatiers who each contributed a unique piece to the collection.

    A pâtissier typically creates a suite of sweets: biscuits (cookies) and macarons, cakes, chocolates, confectionery (caramels, dragées, fondant/nougat, fudge, hard candies, marshmallows, marzipan, pâte de fruit, etc.), ice cream and, of course pastries.

     

    Neuhaus Haut Patisserie collection. Photo
    courtesy Neuhaus.

     
    Haut, by the way, is pronounced “oat,” and not “hoat,” as the people responsible for “Haut Goth” or “Haut Look” would have it. The complete pronunciation: oat pah-TEE-suh-ree.

    THE MOST BEAUTIFUL BOX FOR THE MOST EXQUISITE CHOCOLATES

    The exquisite round gift box is a keeper. In pale green with textured gold accents, it is may be the nicest package from any chocolatier and evocative of the luxurious boxes that were used to package chocolates in earlier times. It holds 27 chocolates: three pieces from each of nine pastry chefs. It is available with an elegant coordinated bag and an illustrative booklet with the story of each praline for $45.00, at NeuhausChocolate.com.

    The pralines—what Belgians call bonbons (here’s an explanation of the difference between Belgian and French chocolates), are thick shells of wonderful chocolate. Each pastry chef was guided by his own creative, cultural and gastronomic inspiration. The initials of each chef are worked into the design patterns on the top of each chocolate.
    In alphabetical order of surname, the pastry chefs are:

    Christophe Adam
    Paris, France

    Adam achieved fame as creative director at Fauchon, and currently focuses on sweet delicacies in his own business. He bonbon is dark chocolate with a ganache of Sicilian pistachios and oranges from Valencia, enriched with black raisins from Chile. The orange flavor prevails, and we love it.
    Dominique Ansel
    New York, New York

    Ansel is originally from Paris, but is one of the best (if not the best) pâtissiers in New York right now. His awards include “Best New Pâtisserie of New York” and “Top 10 Pastry Chefs in the United States.” We voyage to his pastry shop as often as we can. For this collection, he created a milk chocolate shell filled with ganache inspired by childhood memories: roasted peanuts on a layer of caramel “à l’ancienne.” The sensation begins with savory peanuts and finishes with sweet milk chocolate.

    Joost Arijs
    Ghent, Belgium

    Arijs eventually became Chef Pâtissier at the three-star Michelin restaurant Hof van Cleve. In 2012 he and his bakery’s co-owner were awarded the title of “Best Pâtisserie in Belgium”—which says something, given the high standards in that country. Chef Arijs enjoys combining chocolate with fresh notes of fruit and citrus. For Haute Pâtisserie he has created a dark chocolate shell with a crumble of cacao nibs. The couverture is 70% Ecuadorian cacao ganache wit a layer of Indian mango coulis. We also detected a hint of citrus—perhaps some exotic lime.

     


    The gift set: box, bag, brochure. Photo
    courtesy Neuhaus.com.
     

    Oriol Balaguer
    Barcelona & Madrid, Spain

    Balaguer’s honors include “Best Dessert in the World” and “Best Pâtissier in Spain.” His piece is a milk chocolate shell filled with popping sugar on a layer of praline (using the world’s finest Piedmont hazelnuts) and passion fruit. We don’t generally go for hazelnut praliné, but we’d gladly take a few boxes of these. They are perhaps the best praline ever. Website. In the U.S. you can purchase his chocolate at Borne Confections.

    Martin Chiffers
    London, England

    Chiffers is president of the U.K. Pastry Team, which won the European Pastry cup in 2012. Inspired by berries and flowers from Cornish gardens, his milk chocolate piece features rose on a layer of praline “à l’ancienne,” made with hazelnuts and fresh raspberries. The raspberries dominate, deliciously. The burst of fresh raspberries makes this perhaps our favorite piece in the collection.

     

    Raphaël Giot
    Namur, Belgium

    This Belgian pâtissier is known as “the goldsmith of pastry.” His dark chocolate piece is a salted caramel “à l’ancienne” on a layer of velvety praliné, enriched with pieces of hazelnuts and enrobed with dark chocolate. We—previously noted, not generally a hazelnut chocolate fan—really liked it. Website.

    Koji Tsuchija
    Tokyo, Japan

    Koji Tsuchija has seven luxury chocolate shops in Tokyo, called Théobroma. His dark origin chocolate ganache infused with yuzu is a perfect marriage between the bittersweet chocolate and refreshing acidity of the citrus. We can never get enough of tart-yet-sweet yuzu. It’s another winner. Website.

    Bernd Sierfert
    Michelstadt, Germany

    Sierfert held the title of “Best German Pâtissier” for five years running. His milk chocolate piece, called “Chinese Girls,” is chocolate ganache infused with Chinese jasmine tea on a thin layer of crunchy praline with Oriental ginger. The flavors are subtle, the crunch is lovely, the overall chocolate is sweet happiness. Website.
    Louie Ye
    Shanghai, China

    Ye is the executive pastry at the world’s tallest hotel, the Park Hyatt in Shanghai, and has represented China in the World Pastry Championships. His piece represents Asian cuisine and combines sweet and savory flavors. An herb-accented caramel, lush and lovely with a hint of salt with dark origin chocolate from Ecuador. The finish of the chocolate goes on and on. Hotel website.
     
    CHOCOLATE TERMS

    What the French call bonbons and Americans call filled chocolates, Belgians call pralines. It’s a confusing because in France, praline is a caramelized almond and in the U.S., it’s a brown sugar patty with pecans. In fact, Belgian chocolatier Jean Neuhaus started the confusion in 1912, when he developed a process for creating hard shell filled chocolates that he called pralines.

  • The different types of praline
  • The difference between Belgian and French chocolates
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    RECIPE: Fluffy Sweet Potato Bourbon Pie

    Some people don’t like pumpkin pie, some people want a change after a season of it. Try a sweet potato pie instead! This recipe was developed by Elizabeth Karmel for the North Carolina Sweet Potato Commission. It makes 10 servings.

    Find more sweet potato recipes from the North Carolina Sweet Potato Commission.

    RECIPE: FLUFFY SWEET POTATO BOURBON PIE
    WITH WHIPPED CREAM AND TOASTED PECANS

    Ingredients

  • 2 pounds sweet potatoes
  • 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
  • 3 large eggs
  • 3/4 cup heavy cream
  • 2 tablespoons top quality bourbon
  • 1 generous teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  • 1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar
  • 1/4 cup granulated white sugar
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
  • 1/4 teaspoon fine-ground sea salt
  • 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
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    Sweet potato bourbon pie. Photo courtesy North Carolina Sweet Potato Commission.
  • 1 10-inch graham cracker crust (homemade or store-bought)
  • Garnish: toasted pecans
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    For The Ginger Whipped Cream

  • 1/2 pint heavy whipping cream
  • 2 tablespoons sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
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    Preparation

    1. PREHEAT oven to 425°F. Wash and dry sweet potatoes. With a fork, prick the sweet potatoes all over about six times. Set sweet potatoes on a cookie sheet or baking pan. Roast until soft and you can see bits of sugar bubbling where you pricked the potato, about 1 hour. Remove from oven and reduce heat to 375°F.

    2. COOL, peel and measure out 2 generous cups of cooked sweet potato. Remove flesh to the bowl of a food processor fitted with the “s” blade; purée until smooth. While the motor is running, add the butter to soften the sweet potatoes. Add the eggs. You will notice that the sweet potatoes will start to take on a lighter, almost peachy color.

    3. COMBINE the cream, bourbon and vanilla extract in a small bowl. Add to the potato purée as the food processor is running. The mixture will look light and fluffy at this point.

    4. SCRAPE the sides and add the sugars, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, salt and cloves. Purée to combine. The sugar and spices will darken the color a bit but the texture will remain very fluffy.

    5. SPOON the filling into the prepared crust and place on a cookie sheet. Bake until filling is set, about 40 minutes. To test, shake the pie; the center of the pie should jiggle slightly. If you aren’t sure, stick a toothpick or a butter knife in the center; if it comes out clean, the pie is done. Let cool and then chill thoroughly before serving. Serve with ginger whipped cream and toasted pecans.
     
    Preparation: Ginger Whipped Cream

    1. COMBINE cream, sugar and ginger in a mixing bowl.

    2. WHIP with an electric mixer or a whisk until cream is thick and stiff.

      

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