THE NIBBLE BLOG: Products, Recipes & Trends In Specialty Foods


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HAPPY THANKSGIVING

All of us at THE NIBBLE wish you a Happy Thanksgiving. We’re thankful to have you as a reader.

Thoughts for the day:

“I am grateful for what I am and have. My thanksgiving is perpetual.”
Henry David Thoreau

“When asked if my cup is half-full or half-empty my only response is that I am thankful I have a cup.”
Sam Lefkowitz

“When I started counting my blessings, my whole life turned around.”
Willie Nelson

“Be thankful for what you have; you’ll end up having more. If you concentrate on what you don’t have, you will never, ever have enough.”
Oprah Winfrey

“If you are really thankful, what do you do? You share.”
W. Clement Stone

 

norman-rockwell-freedomfromwant-230
“Freedom From Want” | Norman Rockwell.

 
  

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FOOD FUN: PieCaken & Its Recipe

PieCaken Recipe - David Burke Fabrick
[2] Zac Young’s Thanksgiving PieCaken (photos #1 and #2 © Dillon Burke | sndwch creativ).

Piecaken from Zac Young @ Fabrick
[2] Cinnamon buttercream and oat crumble add the finishing touches.

The original PieCaken, the Cherpumple: three layers of cake with pie baked into them.
[3] Before the PieCaken there was the Cherpumple: three layers of cake with a different pie baked inside of each. Here’s the recipe (photos #3 and #4 © Matthew Clark | Better Homes & Gardens).

A slice of Cherpumple, a three-layer cake with a different type of pie baked into each cake layer.
[4] Better Homes & Gardens published the Cherpumple recipe in 2019.

PieCaken For St. Patrick's Day
[5] The St. PatCaken is a St. Patrick’s Day trinity of Whiskey Pecan Pie, Baileys Cheesecake, and Guinness Green Velvet Cake, with Salted Caramel Frosting and sprinkles (photos #5, #6 and #7 © PieCaken Bakeshop).

A Passover PieCaken
[6] The PassCaken for Passover has layers of coconut macaroon pie, flourless chocolate cake, and raspberry mousse topped with a gilded chocolate and sea salt matzo crumble.

Valentine PieCaken with white frosting and red sprinkles
[7] The Valentine PieCaken: chocolate pPecan pie, cheesecake, and red velvet cake.

 

Fans of the Lifetime series, Drop Dead Diva, will remember when April invented the Pake—pie plus cake—and opened her Pakery.

Executive Pastry Chef Zac Young of the David Burke Group now makes the PieCaken for Thanksgiving, the dessert version of turducken. The three-layer confection consists of layers of pecan pie, pumpkin pie and apple upside down cake, along with cinnamon buttercream.

It’s sold at The Burke Group’s New York City restaurant, Fabrick for $49—and following an appearance on “Live With Kelly And Michael,” it’s pretty much sold out.

You can try your hand at it with his recipe, below. But first…
 
 
THE HISTORY OF PIECAKEN

Who invented PieCaken? According to an article on DailyDot.com, Charles Phoenix, whose Wikepedia bio calls “an author and chef whose work explores and celebrates 1950s and 1960s kitsch and Americana,” credits himself with creating the combo cake in 2007.

He called it the Cherpumple or “The Monster” Pie-Cake: a three-layer cake stuffed with cherry, apple and pumpkin pies. The apple pie is baked inside a layer of spice cake, the pumpkin inside yellow cake, and the cherry pie inside a chocolate layer. Here’s a photo and the recipe.

His inspiration was the number of dessert plates used for Thanksgiving dinner, to accommodate his family’s traditional four desserts: three pies—cherry, pumpkin and apple—and a spice cake. Everyone had a slice of everything.

Better Homes & Gardens published the recipe in 2019.

Subsequent to the Cherpumple, Phoenix created the CherBluble for July Fourth: cherry, blueberry, and apple pies are baked into red, white, and blue-colored white cake layers.

Phoenix doesn’t claim to be the first person to bake a pie in a cake (who knows who that was?), but more officially the first person to have gone Internet-viral with it.
 
 
PieCaken Arrives

The PieCaken name and concept was created by Zac Young and his team in November 2015 for a holiday dessert.

They were brainstorming Thanksgiving specials for David Burke Fabrick, a restaurant [now closed] in the boutique hotel Archer New York. The Executive Chef was very excited to be serving a Turducken special main course.

The pastry team set out to make the Turducken of desserts, which they called PieCaken. That original was three layers: pecan pie, pumpkin pie, and spice Cake, with apple pie filling and a frosting of cinnamon buttercream topped with oat crumble.

It became a sensation, and press coverage created a plethora of orders. (And frankly, it’s a better concept than the Cherpumple.)

To boot, Chef Young was named one of the Top Ten Pastry Chefs in America that same year.

Here’s a Thanksgiving PieCaken recipe from Chef Young.
 
 
RECIPE: APPLE PUMPKIN PECAN PIECAKEN

Ingredients For 8-12 Servings

For the Apple Upside-Down Cake

  • 1 (9 inch) pumpkin pie (store bought or your favorite recipe—Zac uses the recipe from the back of the Libby’s can
  • 1 (9 inch) pecan pie (store bought or your favorite recipe)
  •  
    For the Apple Upside-Down Cake

  • 1 large Granny Smith apple
  • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 3 tablespoons dark brown sugar
  • 1/2 cup vegetable oil
  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  • 2 large eggs
  • 1/2 cup buttermilk*
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1-1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
  •  
    For the Cinnamon Buttercream Frosting

  • 4 large egg whites (totally clean, no bits of yolk)
  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  • 1 pound (4 sticks) unsalted butter
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
  •  
    Plus

  • Whipped cream or ice cream for serving
  •  
    ________________

    *Buttermilk substitute: For 1/2 cup buttermilk, substitute 1 tablespoon of lemon juice or vinegar plus enough milk to make 1/2 cup.

    †Seriously, we don’t think that a cake as complex and rich as this needs whipped cream or ice cream!
    ________________

    Preparation

    1. PREHEAT the oven to 350°F. Spray an 8” cake pan with nonstick spray and line with a round of parchment paper.

    2. MAKE the apple topping: Peel, core and cut the apple into quarters. Slice each quarter into very thin (1/16”) slices. Melt the butter in the microwave. In a bowl, toss the butter, brown sugar and apples together. Spread the apple mixture into a thin layer in the bottom of the prepared cake pan and bake for 10 minutes. The sugar and butter should be melted and the apples should start to soften. There may be a little liquid that has seeped out of the apples, which is fine. Let the pan cool while you make the cake.

    3. MAKE the spice cake: Put the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and spices in a medium bowl and whisk until blended together. In a large mixing bowl, whisk the oil and sugar together. It’s actually easier to do this with a whisk than with an electric mixer; but if you really like the mixer, use it. Add both of the eggs and whisk until smooth. Add the buttermilk and vanilla and whisk until incorporated. Add the dry ingredients in two installments, whisking until blended.

    4. CAREFULLY POUR the batter over the apple layer. If you simply dump it on top, you run the risk of displacing the apples and ruining the pretty apple design, but it will still taste good.

    5. RETURN the pan to the oven and bake for 20 to 30 minutes, until the center of the cake is fully cooked. Once the cake has cooled for 20 minutes, flip it out of the cake pan and onto a cooling rack. Remove the parchment. Let cool fully while you make the frosting.

    6. MAKE the cinnamon buttercream frosting: Find a pot that will fit the bottom of the bowl of the stand mixer, fill it with three inches of water and bring to a simmer. Place the egg whites and the sugar in the mixer bowl and place over the simmering pot of water. Stir the mixture until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture is warm, about 4 minutes.

    7. PLACE the bowl on the mixer stand, fitted with the whisk attachment, and beat on medium high until cool (about 8 to 10 minutes). Cut the butter into 1 inch cubes and gradually add to the mixer. Mix until the butter has incorporated and the frosting is light and fluffy (about 5 minutes). Add the salt, vanilla and cinnamon and whisk until combined.

     
    8. ASSEMBLE the PieCaken. It is easier to assemble if the pies are chilled. With a small knife, cut the outer crust off the pies, leaving only the filling and the bottom crust. With a serrated knife, cut off what was the top of the cake, which is now on the bottom. Do this by cutting straight through the cake horizontally about a half inch up the side of the cake. Reserve the scraps for snacking.

    9. PLACE the pecan pie on an 8-inch cake board or serving plate. Spread a ½ inch layer of frosting over the top of the pie. Place the pumpkin pie on top and spread a ½ inch of frosting on top. Place the cake, apple side up, on top of the frosting. With a serrated knife, trim the sides of the cake to be flush with the pies. Add the scraps to the snack pile.

    10. USING an offset spatula, spread a ½ inch layer of frosting around the cake, covering the sides. Using a piping bag with whatever tip you want, pipe a pretty border around the top of the cake. Zac likes to leave the top of the cake unfrosted so that one can see the apples.

    11. REFRIGERATE the PieCaken for at least an hour, or tightly wrapped for up to 5 days. Let sit at room temperature for an hour before serving so the buttercream softens. Cut the PieCaken into 8 to 12 slices using a sharp knife dipped in hot water. Serve with whipped cream or ice cream.
     
     
    > The history of cake.

    > The history of pie.

    > The different types of cake: a photo glossary.

    > The different types of pie and pastry: a photo glossary.
     
     

    CHECK OUT WHAT’S HAPPENING ON OUR HOME PAGE, THENIBBLE.COM.

     
     
      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Make Easy Rum Raisin Ice Cream

    Haagen-Dazs Rum Raisin Ice Cream

    Haagen-Dazs Rum Raisin Pint
    Look for it in stores or make your own Rum Raisin ice cream. Photos courtesy Häagen-Dazs.

     

    Our favorite Thanksgiving ice cream flavor is not Pumpkin, but Rum Raisin. It’s an old-fashioned flavor that seems very American (as rum was produced close to home, in the Caribbean). Actually, its roots are in Sicily; the history is below.

    It’s easy to make Rum Raisin from basic Vanilla ice cream:

    Marinate the raisins overnight in rum and sugar. Drain and stir the raisins into softened vanilla ice cream. Return the ice cream to the freezer to harden.

    Even easier: Use the rum-soaked raisins as a topping on vanilla ice cream, or interspersed in a parfait.

    TIP: We usually have a jar of rum-soaked raisins in the fridge, and give jars of it as gifts. It’s better visually to mix purple and golden raisins (sultanas). For Christmas, we add some dried cranberries; and also make a separate concoction of dried cranberries in a mix of rum and cranberry liqueur. All versions are delicious in a cup of hot tea.

    If you want to make Rum Raisin Ice Cream from scratch, here’s a recipe from Saveur.
     
     
    FAVORITE PAIRINGS WITH RUM RAISIN ICE CREAM

    It’s so much more special than vanilla ice cream, with:

  • Apple pies and tarts
  • Sundaes and waffle sundaes with caramel or hot fudge
  •  
    Use the marinated raisins themselves as a topping on:

  • Bread puddings
  • Poached pears, compotes and other cooked fruit dishes
  • Rice pudding and other puddings
  •  
     
    THE HISTORY OF RUM RAISIN

    In Sicily, where it originated, what we call Rum Raisin is known as Málaga. The Sicilians were the first to create Rum Raisin gelato, which was originally made with the local Marsala wine instead of rum.

    The raisins were soaked overnight in the wine and then mixed into vanilla gelato*. The sweet Málaga raisins with a burst of alcohol were a hit, and led to Rum Raisin/Málaga flavors in other desserts. Bread puddings, cakes (especially fruit cakes and pound cakes), cookies, custards, pastries, pies and puddings were all enhanced with rum-soaked raisins.

    A grass originally from the the Pacific islands of Melanesia and Polynesia, sugar cane was introduced to the Caribbean in 1493 by Christopher Columbus [sugar history and source].

    By the 17th century, the Caribbean had become the major source of sugar for the West. Molasses is a by-product of refining the cane juice into sugar. Rum was first made from fermented and distilled molasses, most likely on the island of Barbados, where plantation slaves discovered that molasses could be fermented into an alcoholic beverage and then distilled to remove its impurities.

    Fast forward to ice cream: As flavors proliferated in the U.S., rum-soaked raisins were as much a hit as they had been in Italy (the history of ice cream).

    According to FoodTimeline.org, alcohol and ice cream were “pondered in the 18th century; commercially achieved in the USA during the 1930s.” A 1932 newspaper display ad in the Ardmore [Oklahoma] Daily Admoreite of January 14, 1932 declared, “Extra Special. Rum Raisin Ice Cream. Entirely New.” In 1970, President and Mrs. Richard Nixon gave a dinner in honor of President and Madame Georges Pompidou of France, which included pistachio and rum raisin ice creams in the shape of a melon.”

    In the early 1980s, Häagen-Dazs made sure almost all Americans could taste Rum Raisin, by launching the flavor—its fifth, after chocolate, coffee, strawberry and vanilla. It became a hit, but the company now has 24 basic ice cream flavors plus 9 gelato flavors, 7 artisan flavors and 4 sorbets. As a result, Rum Raisin has become a fall season flavor.

    But, just keep that jar of rum-soaked raisins in the fridge and vanilla ice cream in the freezer, and you can have it whenever you want.
     
    _________________
    *The difference between gelato and ice cream.
      

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    TOP PICK OF THE WEEK: Topperfino Chocolate Coffee Toppers

    Our Top Pick Of The Week gets high points for innovation, flavor and beauty.

    The clever folks at Topperfino have hand-crafted discs from premium Belgian chocolate, with a lovely assortment of designs. When a disc is placed atop a steaming cup of coffee or cocoa, the beverage transforms into a work of coffee art.

    The thin disc then melts into the cup, releasing a captivating chocolate aroma and—oh, yes—adding chocolate flavor.

    The best Topperfino experience is on a coffee with crèma on top, such as cappuccino or latte. But we tried it on everything, including plain coffee, hot milk and rooibos and chocolate tea blends. (Numi, Republic Of Tea and Zhena sell chocolate tea blends. Our favorite is Buccaneer from Serendipitea.)

    And, per the company’s suggestion, it even works on a bowl of hot cereal (which might finally get the kids to eat their oatmeal and drink their milk).

    Topperfino is a memorable gift for anyone who drinks coffee or hot chocolate, and will delight adults and kids alike. Each disk has just 25 calories, and you can skip the sugar so the calorie switch is even.

    Gently place the Topperfino chocolate topper on top of your coffee cup and watch it melt into a creamy chocolate-y flavorful addition to your morning Joe!

     
    YOUR CHOICE OF DARK OR MILK CHOCOLATE

    Topperfino discs are made in dark chocolate in plain chocolate plus caramel, French vanilla and hazelnut, in more than a dozen designs. Milk chocolate toppers are available in caramel, French vanilla and hazelnut.

      Topperfino Chocolate Cup Toppers

    /home/content/p3pnexwpnas01 data02/07/2891007/html/wp content/uploads/gift box 230
    TOP PHOTO: Two different designs turn cups of coffee into art. BOTTOM PHOTO: Gift box. Photos courtesy Topperfino.

     
    And what lovely designs: animal prints, circles, coffee beans, geometrics, hearts, music, orbs, paisley and snowflakes, for starters.

    What are you waiting for? Get yours at Topperfino.com. Each box of 10 toppers is just $13.99. There’s free shipping with two boxes or more.

    TIP: We used some aerosol whipped cream that made it easier to place the disc on the hot beverage. When your toppers arrive, you’ll see what we mean.

    TRIVA: Topperfino happened ­by mistake! The inventor, an artist, loved to drink coffee with a bar of chocolate on the side (in France and Italy, a square of chocolate is oftened served with coffee). One morning, a piece of chocolate accidentally fell into his coffee and floated for a short time. The light bulb turned on. After countless tests, he created the unique blend of art and chocolate that he named Topperfino.

      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: The Best Thanksgiving Dessert Could Be Bites

    /home/content/p3pnexwpnas01_data02/07/2891007/html/wp content/uploads/pumpkin cheesecake bites whiteonricecouple 230

    Bountiful Cookbook
    TOP PHOTO: Cut up the brownies, cheesecake and pumpkin, insert toothpicks, and everyone will enjoy dessert more by eating less. BOTTOM PHOTO: The photographers also cook. Take a look at their fruit and veggie-centric cookbook. Photos © WhiteOnRiceCouple.com.

     

    You know how you feel at the end of the turkey course at Thanksgiving dinner: stuffed to the gills (although it seems that the expression should be adapted to “stuffed to the drumsticks”).

    There’s still dessert to be had—delicious dessert(s) handmade with love. But no one really has room for a piece of pie or even that wonderful pumpkin cheesecake.

    Here’s a solution we adapted after seeing this photo from WhiteOnRiceCouple.com.

    The couple comprises Todd and Diane, top professional food photographers who cook at home when they aren’t shooting someone elses’s fare. They also grow vegetables and have almost 40 fruit trees in their garden.

    And no surprise, they’ve written a cookbook, Bountiful, with each recipe featuring a vegetable or fruit as the star of the meal. You can also go to their website and sign up for social media posts. But back to the…
     
    THANKSGIVING DESSERT STRATEGY

    1. Make desserts that are dense enough to be cut into squares, like bar cookies (that’s the category* for brownies, lemon bars, etc.). Below are recipes for cranberry, pecan, pumpkin and pumpkin cheesecake bars.

    2. Cut the bars into bite size squares, add a fancy toothpick and pass the plate. The theme: Enjoy dessert more by eating less. Even people who “can’t eat another bite” can have a satisfying bite or two. Everyone will thank you for coming up with such a smart solution.

     
    THANKSGIVING DESSERT BAR RECIPES

  • Chocolate Pecan Pie Bars Recipe
  • Cranberry Bars Recipe
  • Cranberry Curd Bars on Walnut Shortbread Recipe
  • Marbled Pumpkin Cheesecake Bars Recipe
  • Pecan Pie Bars Recipe
  • Pumpkin Bars With Cream Cheese Frosting Recipe
  • Pumpkin Swirl Chocolate Brownies Recipe
  • Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Brownies Recipe
  •  
    *Bars are categorized as cookies instead of cake because they are finger foods that don’t require a fork.
      

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