Today’s tip: Get to know farmer cheese.

We grew up on it: Our grandparents loved it, our mother loved it and we’re in love with its milky freshness, too.

For eating at breakfast, for crostini, for a cooking cheese, it’s a tangier option to ricotta: Middle Europe versus Italy.

This tip is all about farmer cheese, including a new discovery: Lifeway Probiotic Farmer Cheese (below), tangy and gut-friendly.
 
 
WHAT IS FARMER CHEESE?

Farmer cheese or farmer’s cheese is a simple, fresh (i.e., unaged), cow’s milk cheese that’s the “child” of cottage cheese.

The texture is much drier than cottage cheese and the curd is tiny, such that the dry, tiny curds are molded into loaves and sliced.

Farmer cheese is made by pressing most of the moisture (whey) from cottage cheese. Baker’s cheese is essentially the same product.

Farmer Cheese History

Farmer cheese originated on farms as another way to use milk left over after skimming the cream for butter.

First, cottage cheese was made and the remaining moisture (whey) pressed out of it, causing the cheese to become dry and crumbly.

Two main styles evolved:

 
Our experience is with the fresh version.

Once a staple of Middle European cuisine, farmer cheese was brought to the U.S. by Ashkenazi Jewish immigrants, who first made it at home.

> Here’s a recipe to make farmer cheese.

Any commercial cheese producer can make it; but few do, since it has fallen out of fashion. It can be hard to find outside of strongholds of Jewish cuisine.

The difference between farmer cheese and its closest “relatives”:

 
What Is Fresh Cheese?

Farmer cheese belongs to the category of fresh cheeses: cheeses that have not been aged, or are very slightly cured, have a high moisture content and are usually mild with very creamy taste and soft texture.

Fresh cheeses may be made from all types of milk, and are generally ready to eat in a few hours.

 
Farmer cheese, like all fresh cheeses, should be consumed within a week or so, unless it’s pre-packaged and sealed for a longer shelf life.
 
 
WAYS TO USE FARMER CHEESE

Our favorite use is right from the package, as a spread on bagels, crusty rustic bread and any type of toast—with or without jam.

Next is as a base for berries or fruit salad, with a dollop of yogurt or sour cream on top (maybe a little honey).

And then, there are:

 
Farmer cheese can be blended with puréed or finely diced fruits, or made savory with herbs or cooked, puréed or finely diced vegetables.

Mixed with sweetener and baked (fruit optional), it is similar to ricotta cheesecake.

Baked farmer cheese was sold for years, in several flavors, at our local specialty market, until the producer retired. Alas.

But it’s easy enough to recreate at home.

> Here’s a basic recipe for baked farmer cheese.
 

LIFEWAY PROBIOTIC FARMER CHEESE

We recently discovered Lifeway Farmer Cheese, made by the company that’s the number-one producer of kefir in the U.S.

High in calcium, it is certified gluten free, OU kosher, and is rBST-free.

It has more moisture (is less firm) than the few brands of farmer cheese we know.

The main difference between Lifeway brand and other farmer cheese brands is that it has the probiotic heritage of the company’s kefir.

It’s naturally up to 99% lactose free, because it’s cultured.

 
There are three varieties:

 
> Here’s more about Lifeway Farmer Cheese.
 
 
FARMER CHEESE RECIPES

You can substitute farmer cheese for ricotta in many recipes. Here are some simple recipes that let farmer cheese shine.

[1] Farmer cheese: pressed from cottage cheese, it’s drier with a tiny curd (photo © Zabar’s).

[2] Ready for breakfast: a bagel packed with farmer cheese, bacon, eggs and avocado (photos #2 through #7 © Lifeway Foods).

[3] Lunch time: beet spread and sliced avocado on pumpernickel toast.

[4] Lunch time: Cucumber salad and cherry tomato salad with red onion, artichoke hearts and olives, garnished with dabs of farmer cheese.

[5] Margherita pizza: tomatoes and basil with farmer cheese instead of mozzarella.

[6] Fruit bowl with farmer cheese.

[7] A snack plate of cantaloupe, salame, toasts and scoops of farmer cheese garnished with freshly-ground pepper and extra virgin olive oil.

[8] Crepes filled with sweet farmer cheese. Here’s the recipe from Olga In The Kitchen (photo © Olga In The Kitchen).

[9] How about a farmer cheese cake, for breakfast, dessert or snacking? Here’s the recipe from Mom’s Dish (photo © Mom’s Dish).

[1] Honey ice cream with a luscious cherry swirl. The recipe is below (all photos © Vermont Creamery).

[2] Some people love their ice cream in a dish, others in a cone.

[3] Crème fraîche is packaged in eight-ounce tubs. You’ll have to resist eating the contents with a spoon!

A few years ago, we created a list for National Honey Month, September: 30 ways to use honey.

It included drizzling honey as an ice cream topping, but it did not include making honey ice cream.

Today, we remedy that oversight with this “gourmet” recipe for Honey Crème Fraîche Ice Cream With A Cherry Swirl, from Vermont Creamery.

Crème Fraîche is a French-style cultured cream that is more delicate and elegant than its American counterpart, sour cream.

The rich taste and cooking advantage of crème fraîche (it doesn’t curdle when added to heated recipes, as yogurt does) bring a depth of flavor and a smooth texture to baked goods, dips, sauces and soups.

Plus the ice cream recipe below, of course!
 
 
> The Different Types Of Honey

> The History Of Honey

> What Is Creme Fraiche
 
 
RECIPE: HONEY ICE CREAM WITH CHERRY SWIRL

Ingredients For The Cherry Swirl

 
For The Ice Cream

 
Preparation

1. COMBINE the cherries, 2 tablespoons sugar, lemon juice and pinch of salt in a small saucepan. Simmer about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally and mashing the cherries until jammy. Stir 1 teaspoon of lemon zest into the mixture. Transfer to a small bowl; cover and refrigerate.

2. PLACE a mesh strainer over a medium bowl. Fill a large bowl halfway with ice water. Nest the medium bowl in the larger bowl filled with ice water. Set aside. In another medium bowl…

3. WHISK together the egg yolks, honey, and 2 tablespoons of sugar. Set aside.

4. COMBINE the whole milk, whipping cream and 1/8 teaspoon salt in a large saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until hot but not boiling. Gradually whisk the hot milk mixture into the yolk mixture.

5. RETURN the mixture to the saucepan. Cook, stirring constantly, until the temperature reaches 170°F. Pour through the strainer into the bowl nested in ice water. Stir in the lemon zest. Whisk occasionally until the custard is cooled down. Cover and chill completely.

6. CHURN according to the ice cream machine manufacturer’s directions. When churned and frozen, gently fold in the crème fraîche (the crème fraîche will freeze in small pieces). Gently swirl in the cherry jam. Freeze until ready to serve.

The one food prep task we fear is slicing and peeling butternut squash (and all the winter* squashes, but we eat butternut most often).

It’s not the easiest thing to slice and peel, given the force needed to cut through the squash.

Even with a firm cutting board and a super-sharp knife, we face with foreboding the prospect slicing the squash in half.

We put on our oyster-shucking gloves for some hand protection, and wish we had the safety gloves used by construction works.

Before we discovered the following hack, we gritted our teeth, sliced the squash in half in a guillotine-like motion, and baked the halve as is, or with stuffing.

The idea of peeling the butternut was still daunting, if less extremity-threatening.

That’s the back-story.

We recently came across a tip that replaced the fear with a better technique: an easy way to slice winter squash, starting with the microwave and finishing with a sharp, serrated vegetable peeler.

The microwave softens the skin so it’s easy to peel. A good serrated peeler does the rest.

Here’s a video showing how easy it is to do it.
 
 
TO PEEL THE SQUASH

1. CUT off the ends with a super-sharp knife (it’s time to get out your knife sharpener), and use a fork to poke 10-20 holes around the squash.

2. PLACE in the microwave for 3-4 minutes. Let cool before peeling. Then, use your peeler to remove the skin. You can use a knife, but it’s more laborious.

3. DICE, cut rings, or otherwise slice the squash. You’re ready for your recipe!
 
 
GET THE BEST PEELER

Remember, you’re paying for the best blade. Two to look at.

 
 
THE 11 TYPES OF WINTER SQUASH

Farmers markets and upscale stores like Whole Foods Markets often have winter squash varieties that are not available in most supermarkets.

Here’s a list of well-known and less-known varieties:

 
 
> Beautiful Butternut Squash Tart

> Stuffed Delicata Squash Cylinders

> Stuff A Delicata Squash “Vase”
 
________________

*You can tell winter squash from its thick, hard exterior. You need force in order to slice into it. Summer squash has a thin peel that can be eaten.

[1] We were in fear of halving a butternut squash until we learned the “microwave” tip (photo © Good Eggs).

[2] There’s no need to peel the squash when you stuff the halves. This recipe, from Del’s Cooking Twist, adds the lovely touch of a diamond pattern in the flesh of the squash (photo © Del’s Cooking Twist).

[3] Not all winter squash are hard to slice. The delicata squash, for example, provides an easier time of it (photo © Good Eggs).

[4] Kabocha squash comes in a variety of colors. This one is called “sunshine kabocha” (photo © Good Eggs).

[1] Mac and cheese with toppings of choice; here, broccoli florets, chopped scallions and diced tomatoes (photo © Amy’s Kitchen).

[2] Feeling flush? Top your mac and cheese with lobster (photo © Blake’s).

[3] One box, lots of gluten-free variations. Just add your toppings of choice, from broccoli or kale to chicken or seafood. Crab lobster are our favorites! (photo © Pamela’s Products).

[4] Ready to take a bite? (photo © Hannah Kaminsky | Bittersweet Blog).

THE NIBBLE’s gluten-free expert, Georgi Page-Smith, tries a GF version of one of America’s favorite comfort foods.

It’s been a while since I succumbed to the siren song of a good Mac and Cheese.

I’ve tried a few fancy versions at various gourmet purveyors and even an unnamed frozen variety, but nothing has quite hit the mark.

And, to be honest, because my favorites have always involved way too much cheese and because I’ve become accustomed to a low-carb lifestyle, it has always been a guilty pleasure and not part of my regular rotation.

Not since the days when I would break out the Kraft Mac and Cheese while babysitting had I ever really been tempted to taste one of the many varieties of boxed Macs.

But, when gluten-free specialist Pamela’s Products stepped up recently, releasing two gluten-free Macaroni and Cheese flavors (one is vegan), with organic noodles, it was time to take a trip down memory lane.

The pasta is organic, made from gluten-free flour (organic white rice flour, organic pea protein, organic sprouted brown rice flour).

 
All ingredients are non-GMO.
 
 
WHIPPING UP PAMELA’S MAC & CHEESE

Enjoy it as a lunch on-the-go, or dress it up with a few vegetables, herbs and assorted trimmings for dinner.

Toasted breadcrumbs are a traditional mac & cheese garnish—recipe below).

I chose to make my Macs for a late lunch, putting their flavor, convenience and fuel potential to the ultimate test.

The standard Mac N’ Cheese was my first flavor, so that I could establish a ‘true North’ for the rest of my tastings. The instructions on the box are fairly standard, though they did call for boiling the noodles, then draining and mixing the butter, flavor packet and milk in the saucepan separately.

In our home the noodles were drained by holding the pan over the sink and pouring the water off while fencing the noodles using a warped and fire-scarred wooden spoon. Whatever water remained in the saucepan, or tucked into the noodles, was incorporated into the sauce.

So it was that with this first Mac from Pamela’s all of the additional ingredients went into the pan at once, over the al dente noodles, including 2 tablespoons of butter (not 3 tablespoons, as the recipe called for) and—for me—a “milk” that I hacked together by blending 50/50 heavy cream and water.

I am happy to report that Pamela’s is a very forgiving Mac N’ Cheese indeed! The first bite was incredibly, satisfyingly tangy and toothsome, with a springy, chewy texture to the noodles that created the perfect vehicle for the sauce.

But the sauce deserves a special shout-out, because after the addition of the butter and the milk, it did not merely settle for being a sauce; it was a legitimate, full-bodied cheese experience.

The cheese flavors had dimension, with a beginning-middle-and end notes that unfolded as I chewed. I highly recommend this variety without reservation, it is a definitive example of the genre.

Hats off to Pamela’s for coming up with a gluten-free pasta products that helped me give Mac N’ Cheese another try. These varieties are an extremely convenient comfort food ‘go to’ that people with gluten sensitivities should try, for a quick and tasty meal or side.
 
 
WHERE TO FIND IT

And it’s easy to order directly from Pamela’s website, where you’ll get to see all the other gluten-free products as well.

There’s a store locator on the website.

Call ahead to be sure the Mac & Cheese is in stock.

 
 
—Georgi Page-Smith

September is California Wine Month, and the Wine Institute of California has wine pairings to go with the last of the great summer produce—like this Heirloom Tomato Tart.

This savory, colorful tomato tart in perfect for late summer, when tomatoes are at their flavor peak. Serve it in:

 
Tomatoes, which are acidic, aren’t the easiest wine match, but the buttery crust of the tart expands the possibilities.
White wine pairing: Try a Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc if you’re serving the tart as an appetizer, or if it’s a light lunch with a side salad.
 
White wine pairing: If if it’s a side dish with fish or meat:, bring out the Pinot Noir or Zinfandel.

Red wine pairings:

 
> The Difference Between A Pie & A Tart
 
 
RECIPE: HEIRLOOM TOMATO TART WITH KALAMATA OLIVES & GOAT CHEESE SAUCE

This tomato and olive tart is topped with a thick sauce made from goat cheese. You can make the sauce a day in advance.

You can also partially make the crust a day in advance, just prior to baking it (step #5). The crust is the most time-consuming part of the recipe.

Overall prep time is 30 minutes (divided), rest time is 75 minutes (divided), and bake time is 60 minutes (divided).

[1] A buttery-crust tart filled with heirloom tomatoes and Kalamata olives, and a goat cheese topping (photo © Discover California Wines).

[2] Heirloom tomatoes (photo © Okonomi | Brooklyn)

[3] Kalamata olives come from the area of Kalamata, Greece, the second most populous city of the Peloponnese Peninsula (photo © I. Gordutina | Panther Media).

[4] Fresh goat cheese is typically rolled into a log shape (photo © Murray’s Cheese).

6. PLACE the tomato slices on a double thickness of paper towels. Sprinkle evenly with the salt. Let stand for 30 minutes. Pat the surface with paper towels to remove excess moisture. Transfer the slices to a cutting board and cut them in half, taking care to preserve their shape.

7. ARRANGE the tomato slices in the baked tart crust in concentric circles, working from the outside in and overlapping the slices. You should be able to fit all or most of the slices, but reserve any extra for a salad. Tuck the olive halves into any crevices.

8. BRUSH the surface with olive oil and scatter the oregano over the top. Return the tart to the oven and bake until the tomatoes are soft and sizzling, about 30 minutes. Cool on a rack for 15 minutes. The tart is best when warm, not hot.

9. MAKE the topping. In a small bowl, blend the goat cheese and yogurt until very smooth. Add more yogurt if needed to create a sauce you can drizzle. Add the garlic (use less, if you prefer) and salt to taste.

10. TO SERVE: Remove the tart from the tin and place on a serving plate. Drizzle with the goat cheese mixture and top with a few torn leaves of basil. Serve warm.