THE NIBBLE BLOG: Products, Recipes & Trends In Specialty Foods


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TIP OF THE DAY: Riesling, The Best Wine For Sushi

This week we attended a trade event called Riesling & Co. World Tour 2011, sponsored by GermanWineUSA.com, a trade association that aims to heighten awareness of the quality and special nature of German wines. A revelation: the best wine for sushi may be Riesling.

At most wine tastings, there’s a selection of cheeses, breads, and other foods to go with the wine. At this Riesling tasting, the only food served was sushi—plus dumplings and spring rolls targeted at those who don’t eat sushi.

It was a perfect pairing. Those who don’t drink beer or saké have a winner in a Riesling, part of a quintet of other white wines that includes crisp, high-acid Riesling and Pinot Blanc, spicy and aromatic Gewürztraminer and Viognier. Champagne and other sparklers go well, too.

Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Blanc are grown in both the Alsace region of France and in Germany. Viognier is largely Alsatian, but Germany has been amping up its production. All four varieties are grown in California, where they are known as “the Rhone clones.”

 
Riesling is the wine to pair with sushi.
Photo by Lognetic | Dreamstime.
 
While wines from the same grape variety taste different based on where they were grown, each region produces delicious wines. It’s a question of finding which producers you prefer.
 
 
THE NEW RIESLING

Rieslings have changed substantially over the last 20 years. In an effort to gain more fans worldwide, vintners have moved away from the traditional style of Riesling with its notes of petrol and flowery, sometimes heady aromas. Today, the wines are made to be food-friendly across a rainbow of cuisines. The crispness and acidity are just right for sushi.

Riesling is vinified into six categories, in order of increasing sugar levels based on the ripeness of the grapes when picked. Don’t let the word “sugar” scare you away: The slight sweetness in Kabinett and Spätlase wines goes very well with sushi.

Kabinett Rieslings, with the lowest sugar levels, are the best place to start.

  • Kabinett Riesling is a light wine, typically semi-sweet with crisp acidity. It can be vinified to be dry (you’ll see the word Trocken, dry, on the label).
  • Spätlese Riesling, typically semi-sweet or sweet, is made from late harvest (Spätlese) grapes.
  • Auslese Riesling is made from selected very ripe grapes. Auslese means “select harvest.”
  • Beerenauslese Riesling is made from overripe grapes vinified into a rich, sweet dessert wine. Beerenauslese means “select berry harvest.”
  • Eiswein (ice wine) is made from grapes that have been naturally frozen on the vine, resulting in a very concentrated flavor.
  • Trockenbeerenauslese Riesling, nicknamed TBA, is made from overripe, shriveled grapes often affected by noble rot—an extremely rich sweet dessert wine that is a glass of heaven. The name means “select dry berry harvest” or “dry berry selection.”
     
    Our favorite producers: Dr. Loosen, Müller Cattoir and Weingut Robert Weil. But you can start your Riesling voyage with any German—or California—Riesling.

    Now for the bad news: Just try to find Riesling (or a Pinot Blanc, Gewürtztraminer or Viognier) at a Japanese restaurant. You may have to do some lobbying with management. At a minimum, ask if you can bring your own wine for a corkage fee, a charge by the restaurant for every bottle of wine or spirits served that was not bought on the premises. It is usually equal to the price of the most affordable wine that the restaurant carries.
     
     

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    COOKING VIDEO: Cornmeal Battered Onion Rings Recipe

     

    Many people are not neutral on the subject of battered, fried onion rings. There are two main camps: people who don’t like onions and people who’d choose onion rings over fries any day.

    We’re in the latter camp. We could make a meal of onion rings, ketchup and beer. Burgers or other protein only fill us up, so we can’t enjoy as many onion rings.

    Yet, more often than not, we’re disappointed with the onion rings served up at restaurants.

    Unless it’s a very good restaurant, the onion rings are more often than not soggy rather than crispy. We suspect they’re frozen onion rings that have been fried once and then briefly refried to heat them up before delivery to our table. The batter has no crunch; the onions and batter are equally tasteless.

    At the most popular “deluxe” burger restaurant in town, we got crispy onion rings—but not flavorful ones. Doesn’t anyone believe in seasoning? Thank goodness for the ketchup.

    The solution to enjoying delicious, hot and crunchy onion rings is to make them yourself. It’s simple; it’s just a bit time consuming to cut and separate all the rings, dredge them twice and fry them.

    But the weekend is upon us. We’ve got an extra half hour, as well as a fridge full of craft beer and gourmet ketchup. We’ll make buttermilk and cornmeal-battered onion rings (the recipe in the video) on Saturday and substitute panko (Japanese bread crumbs) for the cornmeal on Sunday.

    Here’s a video cooking demonstration showing how easy it is to make onion rings. The seasonings include salt, pepper and cayenne pepper, and if you want more of a kick, optional hot sauce.

    If you want company, ask friends to bring the beer. It’s more than an even exchange for fresh, crisp onion rings.

    For an extra treat, pick up a special ketchup. We’re hooked on the Chipotle Ketchup and Curry Ketchup from Montebello Kitchens.

       

       

    Review: Our favorite ketchups (we tasted 50 of them!).

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Dessert Tortilla Wraps


    Novel dessert: cream cheese, marshmallow
    creme and kiwi in a mango wrap. Photo
    courtesy New Gem Foods.

     

    It’s a wrap—a dessert wrap, that is.

    Sandwich wraps have swept the country by storm. Instead of two slices of bread, many people prefer to roll their favorite sandwich fixings in a large tortilla.

    You can roll dessert fillings in the same manner to make a dessert wrap: sweetened ricotta with chocolate shavings (instead of a cannoli), bananas, fruit salad and yogurt.

    A few years ago we published dessert tortilla recipes made with Tumaro’s dessert-flavored tortillas: Apple Cinnamon, Blueberry, Chocolate and Pineapple. Alas, these flavors have been discontinued. Not enough customers got the message.

    You can use a regular tortilla—a thin, honey-flavored tortilla, if you can find a package. But there’s another option.

    NewGem Foods makes alternative sushi wraps, called Origami Sushi Wraps. Originally intended for people who don’t like the traditional nori (seaweed) wraps, they’re made by dehydrating fresh fruits and vegetables.

     
    In addition to savory flavors such as BBQ, Carrot, Corn, Red Bell Pepper and Tomato Basil, there are sweet flavors: Apple Cinnamon, Mango, Peach and Strawberry. The wraps can be found in Costco, Trader Joe’s, Wegman’s and food retailers worldwide. They can also be purchased from the company website, which has plenty of recipes for you to try.

    Time to make dessert wraps! It couldn’t be easier.

    Marshmallow Mango Cone Recipe
    Makes approximately 100 small cones. Cones can be prepared an hour in advance and refrigerated.

    Ingredients

  • Origami Mango Wraps
  • 24 ounces cream cheese
  • 1 jar marshmallow creme
  • Sliced kiwi
     
    Preparation
    1. Beat cream cheese until smooth.
    2. Add marshmallow creme and beat until smooth.
    3. Fill piping bag with marshmallow filling and pipe into cones. Be sure to fill down into the point of the cone so that the wrapper will soften completely.
    4. Slice Kiwi into rounds, then each round into eight triangles, top each cone with one triangle.

      

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    PRODUCT: TCBY’s New Healthy Frozen Yogurt

    Some 35 years ago, TCBY, The Country’s Best Yogurt, launched Fro-Yo: a soft serve, ice cream-style frozen yogurt that tasted more like soft serve ice cream. It was targeted to the many people who didn’t like the tartness of the original frozen yogurt products.*

    *The first frozen yogurt, soft serve Frogurt, was introduced in New England in the 1970s by dairy company H. P. Hood. In 1978, Boston ice cream chain Brigham’s introduced the first packaged frozen yogurt, called Humphreez Yogart. Around this same time, Dannon introduced another packaged frozen yogurt product called Danny.

    As everything old is new again, Pinkberry and Red Mango have led the renaissance of tart frozen yogurt.

    The “newcomers” are advertising their frozen yogurt as probiotic and a good source of calcium, which is to say, healthier frozen yogurt.

    So TCBY did what any company would do: It reformulated most of its Fro-Yo yogurt flavors to have a healthier profile.

     
    Super Fro-Yo is super enhanced with
    nutrition. Photo courtesy TCBY.
     
    New Super Fro-Yo is lowfat (below 2% fat). To keep the rich, creamy texture while lowering the fat, the yogurt now includes fiber, something that’s good for us.

    Super Fro-Yo is also higher in protein, vitamins A and D and calcium, and it includes seven types of probiotic bacteria. Plus, the fiber in Super Fro-Yo also serves as a “prebiotic,” or food for the healthful probiotic bacteria in the yogurt. Prebiotics increase the number of live and active cultures—a minimum of 20 billion at the point of manufacture. (Learn more about prebiotics and probiotics.)

    A four-ounce serving of Super Fro-Yo has fewer than 120 calories, at least 10% of the recommended daily value (DV) of vitamin A and 20% of the recommended DV of vitamin D. Even though fro-yo is made from milk/yogurt, each serving has less than 1 gram of saturated fat. In addition, each serving provides 3 grams of fiber and 4 grams of protein.

    Traditional flavors include Cake Batter, Cheesecake, Chocolate, Fat-Free Dutch Chocolate, Golden Vanilla, Old-Fashioned Vanilla, Strawberry and White Chocolate Mousse. The chain will continue to carry the regular versions of TCBY yogurt in popular flavors that can’t meet Super Fro-Yo standards, such as the higher-calorie Peanut Butter.

    The chain will continue to carry no sugar-added, nonfat yogurt and dairy-free sorbets.

    Super Fro-Yo is now available at TCBY’s 440 domestic locations. Find a TCBY store near you.
      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Thawing Meat


    Grilling favorites: Defrost them correctly
    for the juciest results. Photo courtesy
    Allen Brothers.

      May is National Barbecue Month. Millions of Americans are firing up the grill to cook burgers, steaks, franks, chicken, kebabs and other favorites.

    Many of us purchase meat in advance and freeze it. There are different meat thawing techniques: on the counter at room temperature, under running water and in the microwave.

    But the best and safest way to thaw meat is in the fridge. Cuts for the grill will thaw in 24 hours or less (a general guideline is 5-6 hours per pound).

    Slow thawing:

  • Allows the meat to retain all of its natural juices, which are essential for the best flavor.
  • Prevents the growth of bacteria, which multiply during quick temperature changes and at room temperature (more about this below).
  •  

    How To Thaw Meat
    Take the meat from the freezer, keep it in its wrapping and place it in a baking dish for the thawing process. You could use a plate, but a dish will catch raw meat juices that can drip on (and contaminate) other foods. Rinse the meat under cold water and pat dry before seasoning and cooking.

    Food Safety
    Bacteria grow most rapidly in the “Danger Zone,” the range of temperatures between 40°F and 140°F. They can double in number in as few as 20 minutes.

    That’s why the USDA’s Meat and Poultry Hotline advises us never to leave food out of refrigeration for more than two hours. If the temperature is above 90°F, food should not be left out for more than one hour.

    If you have specific questions, call the USDA Meat and Poultry Hotline at 1.888.MPHotline (1.888.674.6854), or email mphotline.fsis@usda.gov.

    Also from the USDA: How Temperature Affects Food.

    More ways to celebrate National Barbecue Month.

    Our favorite barbecue sauce is sold on TheNibbleGourmetMarket.com: Grandville’s—so thick it’s called a “barbecue jam” instead of a barbecue sauce.

    It’s a great gift for Father’s Day, in either a two-pack or all six flavors.

    Use promo code DAD2011 to get a 10% discount at checkout.

      

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