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TIP OF THE DAY & BOOK: The Art Of Beef Cutting


If you love beef, you can save money (and
perhaps discover a new hobby) by butchering primal cuts. Photo courtesy Wiley.
  Our tip of the day is to beef lovers: savor the rib-eye cap (more about that below). You’ll learn about it in this new book on butchering beef at home. Of all members of THE NIBBLE team, we weren’t surprised when chef Johnny Gnall raised his hand at the opportunity to interview expert butcher Kari Underly and read her new book. Here is his review, along with his thumbs up for giving the book as a Father’s Day gift to a beef-besotted dad. If you have questions or suggestions for tips, email Chef Johnny.

Kari Underly has been cutting meat for over 30 years. Even with a grandmother, a grandfather, and a father who all worked as butchers, this is a significant accomplishment in a mostly male-dominated field.

But Underly is the proof in the proverbial pudding (blood pudding, perhaps?) that there is no room for sexism around the butcher block. She completed a three-year apprenticeship at age 21 to become a journeyman meat cutter (well, perhaps the title is sexist).

Since then, Underly has established herself time and again as an authority in all things meat, from marketing and merchandising to education; and now, publishing.

 
Her new book, The Art of Beef Cutting: A Meat Professional’s Guide to Butchering and Merchandising, showcases just how extensive her knowledge and expertise are. The book includes, among other things, a step-by-step, photo-illustrated set of instructions for breaking down each primal cut in a side of beef.

What that means, in layman’s terms, is that you could, theoretically, start with an entire steer, and with patience, care, and “The Art of Beef Cutting,” break it all down and turn every bit of it into dinner.

In fact, some restaurant chefs do just that, butchering their own lamb, pig and steer. Certain parts of the book explore more advanced butchery, and the appendices are staggeringly thorough. It does, however, begin with the basics, including knife sharpening, tool selection and cutting technique. So it’s appropriate for butchery beginners, or home cooks with a curiosity they’d like to explore.

 

I had an opportunity to speak with Underly about her book, and about beef in general. There are a number of things she shared that a home cook can do to save time and money when buying and preparing beef; and, of course, when cooking it. But you have to start at the beginning, and that means choosing the right cut.

THE RIGHT CUTS

The two cuts that Underly came back to time and again for home cooks were top sirloin and chuck roast, extolling both their comparative value and their versatility.

  • Cuts from the chuck tend to be flavorful and well-marbled, and they’re great for braising, low and slow.
  • Sirloin is leaner, quite easy to cut, and arguably the most versatile cut on the cow; to quote Underly, “Go sirloin!”
  •  
    Underly at work. She’ll inspire you to unleash your inner butcher. Image courtesy Vimeo.
     

    Beyond these two subprimals (short for subprimal cuts), the one other cut that got Underly really excited was the ribeye cap, which she calls the best steak in the whole carcass. You could almost hear her mouth watering as she described grilling rib-eye cap steaks; and if there’s anyone to trust on such a suggestion, it’s Kari Underly.

    Once you’ve chosen your cut of beef, “The Art of Beef Cutting” can assist you in prepping it for dinner and getting it cooked to its highest potential.

  • Trussing: The book explores trussing (tying roasts with butchers twine to achieve even and optimal cooking), which Underly counsels is mastered only by repetition. “Don’t worry about making it pretty,” she advises.
  • Marinating: The book also has a chapter on marinades, and it highlights the often overlooked distinction between different kinds of marinating: for flavor versus for tenderizing.
  • Methods: Undery suggests ideal cooking methods to use for certain cuts of beef, and even drops hints on how to get perfect browning on your beef.

    Essentially, “The Art of Beef Cutting” is a kitchen-ready sidekick for anyone interested in getting a bit more familiar with his or her beef. There is no question in my mind that the more love you give it, the more the food benefits. Extending your knowledge and expertise with butchery will allow you to love your food that much more. Not to mention the fact that buying larger cuts and breaking them down yourself saves you money, and allows you greater versatility with how you cut and serve your beef.

    Underly’s last piece of advice to home cooks looking to up their butchery quotient? “Be adventurous.” This may be the perfect time to pick up your cleaver and get to know your beef a bit better.

    But first, pick up a copy of the the book.
      

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    RESTAURANTS: How To Choose The Best Steakhouse


    Prime cut ribeye steak. Photo courtesy Allen Brothers.

     

    On Father’s Day, many families will be heading to steakhouses to treat Dad to a splendid meal. If you want the best steakhouse experience, what should you look for?

    We live in a city with many choices. So we turned to Chef Arturo McLeod of Benjamin Steakhouse, which has restaurants in New York City and White Plains, New York. With 35 years manning the grill—20 of those at the venerable Peter Luger Steakhouse—he shared eight items to look for if you want a premier steak experience.

    1. The Restaurant Serves Only USDA Prime Beef
    A great steakhouse only serves USDA Prime meat, a tiny percentage—2%—of the world’s beef production. USDA Prime Beef is the highest quality, and truly superior to the next cut down the scale, USDA Choice. Prime has more marbling, rendering it a more tender, flavorful cut of beef (see all of the beef grades). Only USDA Prime beef can be dry-aged, as the process requires meat with a large, evenly-distributed marbling content.

    2. The Beef Is Hand-Selected
    In a top restaurant, the chef visits the markets at the crack of dawn to hand select the best produce, meats and proteins. The chef of a steakhouse visits his meat purveyor on a daily basis and hand selects every cut of steak that he purchases. He picks out the superior meats and leaves the rest for someone else.

     

    3. The Beef Is Dry Aged In House
    The dry aging process is the key aspect of serving best-tasting steak: It’s what sets a good steak apart from a great steak, and a good steakhouse from a great one. The process involves hanging the loins of beef to dry at for several weeks under controlled temperatures and humidity. The process deepens the flavors and enhances tenderness. Only the more expensive cuts of meat can be dry-aged, as the process requires meat with a large, evenly distributed fat content. Every cut at Benjamin Steakhouse is aged for exactly 28 days, rendering a more juicy, tender and extremely flavorful piece of beef.

    4. The Grill Is Sizzling Hot
    When you’re not in the kitchen, it’s hard to determine this one. But top beef chefs get the grill as hot as possible to sear in the juices and deliver a superior plate of meat.

    5. A Great Chef & A Great Beverage Director
    Beyond a mastery of cooking juicy cuts of dry-aged beef, the chef pays equal attention to serving top-quality sides and desserts. The beverage director should ensure an ample supply of affordable bottles of very good wine and wines by the glass.

    6. You Receive Exceptional Service
    From the reservationist who answers the phone to a pleasant greeting when you arrive to the responsiveness of waiters and busboys, you should feel welcome and cared for. If the quality of the food is your first priority, service should be the second.

    7. You Like The Ambiance
    This is a matter of personal taste. Restaurant decor can range from a grand room with brass chandeliers, vaulted ceilings, plush leather banquettes and fireplace (like Benjamin Steakhouse) to something more contemporary. The atmosphere can be tranquil or lively. But whatever you choose, it should emphasize that you’re having a special dinner.

    8. There Is Consistency
    The restaurant maintains these high standards on a daily basis, year in and year out.

    TIP: If anything is not to your liking, don’t hesitate to speak with the manager. Even if it’s something that can’t be fixed on the spot (“too noisy,” for example), your constructive feedback can be used to make improvements. If they aren’t aware of it, they can’t change it.

    Check out our Beef Glossary.

      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Make A Long Island Iced Tea

    June is National Iced Tea Month, and June 10th is National Iced Tea Day. So enjoy a tall, cold iced tea.

    If you prefer something with a kick, you can add lemon or orange liqueur, some tequila or vodka, or your favorite whiskey.

    Or, you can make a Long Island Iced Tea, which contains no iced tea but is an homage. It gets its name because it resembles an iced tea.

    Long Island Ice Tea first surfaced—according to the leading story—in the late 1970s. It was concocted by a bartender at the Oak Beach Inn, which had two locations on the east end of Long Island, New York.

    Another claim is that the drink dates back to the 1920s during Prohibition,* invented in a river island community called Long Island in Kingsport, Tennessee (details).
     
    For 13 long years of Prohibition, which saw the rise of organized crime and bootlegging, it was common to disguise cocktails as non-alcoholic drinks, lest neighbors or law enforcement officials catch you enjoying a cocktail.
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    *Prohibition Trivia: Prohibition began with the 18th Amendment to the U.S. Constitution, which outlawed the manufacture and sale of liquor from January 17, 1920 until the amendment was repealed in 1933 (the only instance in U.S. history of a full repeal of a constitutional amendment). Drinking itself was never illegal, just manufacture and sale; and there were exceptions for medicinal and religious uses.

     


    Long Island Iced Tea, so named because it looks just like…iced tea! Photo by A41cats | Dreamstime.

     
    WHAT IS LONG ISLAND ICED TEA?

    Long Island Iced Tea is a highball made with equal parts of gin, rum, tequila and vodka, combined with sour mix and a splash of cola. Some popular variations use equal parts of the main liquors but include a smaller amount of triple sec or other orange liqueur. Others replace the tequila with brandy, the sour mix with lemon juice (which we prefer), add white crème de menthe—and even replace the cola with actual iced tea.

    Sometimes, changing the ingredients changes the name. See the numerous variations below.
    Long Island Iced Tea has a much higher alcohol concentration than most cocktails (about 22%) due to the combination of five spirits and the relatively small amount of mixer. Some hardy souls order it “extra long,” which can double the alcohol to mixer ratio. Whew!

     


    Long Island Iced Tea. Photo by Caartic |
    Wikimedia.

     

    LONG ISLAND ICED TEA RECIPE

    Ingredients For Two Drinks

  • 1 ounce gin
  • 1 ounce rum
  • 1 ounce tequila
  • 1 ounce vodka
  • 1 ounce orange liqueur (Cointreau, triple sec, etc.)
  • 5 ounces sweet and sour mix (we prefer to substitute 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice)
  • 2 ounces cola
  • Garnish: 2 lemon or lime wedges
  •  
    Preparation

    1. In a cocktail shaker filled with ice, add spirits and sweet and sour mix. Shake well.

    2. Add a few fresh ice cubes to a highball glass and strain in the drink.

    3. Top with the cola, and garnish with the wedge of lime.

     
    LONG ISLAND ICED TEA BY ANY OTHER NAME

    Here’s a list of variations, from Wikipedia, many of which substitute something else for the cola:

  • Alaskan Iced Tea: Blue Curaçao is substituted for cola.
  • Beverly Hills Iced Tea: Champagne is substituted for cola.
  • Black Opal: Popular in Seattle and Portland, Oregon, lime soda is substituted for cola, and Chambord raspberry liqueur is added.
  • Bondi Iceberg or Electric Iced Tea: Blue Curaçao is substituted for triple sec, Sprite is substituted for cola.
  • California Iced Tea: Orange juice is substituted for cola.
  • Clean Tea: Lemon-lime soda is substituted for cola and sweet and sour mix.
  • Flint, Michigan Iced Tea: Vernor’s Ginger Ale is substituted for cola.
  • Grateful Dead: Chambord is substituted for cola.
  • Harvard Iced Tea: Champagne is substituted for cola, tequila is substituted for gin.
  • Langøyene Iste: Norwegian akvavit is substituted for tequila.
  • Lesbos Iced Tea: Canadian whiskey and ouzo are substituted for cola.
  • Long Beach Iced Tea: Cranberry juice is substituted for cola.
  • Jersey Tea: A shot of Jägermeister is substituted for cola (in California, the drink can be called a Darth Vader).
  • Peach Long Island: Peach schnapps are substituted for tequila.
  • Pittsburgh Tea: Tequila is substituted with Wild Turkey.
  • Tennessee Iced Tea: Tequila is substituted with Jack Daniel’s.
  • Texas Tea: Gin is substituted with tequila.
  • Tokyo Iced Tea or Three Mile Island: Triple sec is substituted with Midori and cola with lemon-lime soda.
  •  
    Imagine a party where you could taste them all!

      

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    BOOK: I Love Corn

    If you love corn—and who doesn’t—pick up a copy of the new recipe book, I Love Corn, by Lisa Skye.

    Published just in time for corn season, Father’s Day and thank-you gifts for summer hosts, here are 50 of the most interesting corn recipes you’ll find in one compilation. We rarely get so excited when eyeballing recipes, and the photos are mouth-watering.

    The recipes were contributed from acclaimed chefs nationwide: both local celebrities and national names such as Hugh Acheson, Dan Barber, Michelle Bernstein, Daniel Boulud, Harold Dieterle and Martha Stewart.

    The recipes will keep you happy at breakfast, lunch and dinner. They cover every part of the meal: appetizers, soups, entrées and desserts. Here are just a few of the dishes that will delight you:

     
    Get a copy for everyone who loves corn. Photo courtesy Andrews McMeel Publishing.
     

    Corn “Seviche” In Corn Water, Corn Pudding with Bacon and Leeks, Fresh Corn Gazpacho, Fresh Corn Ice Cream, Jalapeño Corn Muffins, Popcorn Pudding with Salted Caramel Corn and Butterscotch Sauce, Roasted Corn and Goat Cheese Quiche and Sweet Corn Fritters.

    The book also includes tips for buying, storing, cooking and grilling fresh corn, and instructions for easily cutting kernels off the cob to make these wonderful recipes.

    A large portion of the proceeds from book sales will be donated to the Dougy Center, a national center that helps grieving children and families.

    Get your copy now.

      

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    FATHER’S DAY GIFT: Custom-Engraved Johnnie Walker Scotch


    Engrave your Father’s Day message on a bottle of Johnnie Walker Blue Label. Photo courtesy Johnnie Walker.

     

    If the dads on your Father’s Day gift list drink Scotch, they’d be very happy to receive a bottle of Johnnie Walker Blue Label.

    There are nine expressions of Johnnie Walker, including the more prevalent (and more affordable) Black Label and Red Label bottlings. Blue Label is the distiller’s top Scotch, a premium 80 proof blend that recreates the authentic character and taste of 19th century Johnnie Walker blends. The flavor is rich, peaty, malty and smooth.

    As a top-of-the-line expression, each blue-hued bottle has a serial number and a certificate of authenticity, and is packaged in a silk-lined box.

    As part of the mystique, there is no official age declaration for Blue Label. The youngest whiskey in the blend is rumored to be 28 years old. The blend contains more than 20 rare single malts and superior grain whiskies (by comparison, Black Label’s youngest Scotch is aged for 12 years).

     
    As one of the most expensive blended Scotches on the market, you can expect to pay some $225 a bottle, $525.00 for a 1.5-liter bottle.

    FREE BOTTLE ENGRAVING

    For a “keeper” of a gift, Johnnie Walker Blue Label offers a complimentary bottle engraving service. It transforms an already rare bottle of whiskey into something memorable.

    Whether it’s a simple “Happy Father’s Day” or a more personal “I Love You,” head to the website to order your bottle(s).

      

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