THE NIBBLE BLOG: Products, Recipes & Trends In Specialty Foods


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PRODUCT: Oregon Dan’s BBQ Sauce

We probably receive more barbecue sauce than any other food product. Is there that much barbecue/barbeque/BBQ sauce in America, or is it just a favorite product for people who want to be in the specialty food business? (It’s the latter.) Many people think their sauce (jam, fudge, cookie, whatever) is “the best,” and are encouraged by friends to go into the business.

While the world may need a better mousetrap, it isn’t looking for another sauce (…whatever). It’s tough even for spectacular products to survive. Some of our Top Picks Of The Week—the best of their kind we’ve ever had—have been shuttered (and by the same token, some truly mediocre products continue to sell well, year after year—a phenomenon previously noted by H.L. Mencken). In better economic times, we saw someone develop a unique and needed product to make tofu taste great, and the world did not beat a path to her door. Unless a close family member is CEO of a major food chain, getting distribution for a new product is like swimming upstream, without the genetics of a salmon. That doesn’t make us happy, because people who make specialty foods tend to be nice people, and we always want the best for them.

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BBQ sauce with a focus on fruit. Photo by Emily Chang | THE NIBBLE.

Oregon Dan’s BBQ Sauce arrived recently: four attractive bottles in Original (pineapple), Medium Spice (Original/pineapple with a kick), Apricot and Habanero Hot. “Pure Ingredients!” exclaimed the bottle, and it is true that they are all natural, although the first ingredient is sugar. (Pure doesn’t mean healthy.) The recipes are complex. Original also has pineapple juice, tomato paste, onion, pineapple, distilled white vinegar, butter, cider vinegar, blackstrap molasses, sherry cooking wine, cornstarch, red pepper flakes, vanilla, spices and salt. That’s as classy a set of ingredients as we’ve seen on many a barbeque sauce bottle. Habanero Hot adds habanero purée (a quality ingredient—many sauces use the cheaper habanero extract), Apricot adds apricot purée. Oregon Dan calls the whole line “Hawaiian style,” although apricot and habanero are not part of traditional Hawaiian cuisine, as far as we’ve seen.

The puzzler is, why is Oregon Dan selling Hawaiian recipes. Given that the snowy mountain peaks on the bottle labels are not Mauna Loa and the website survey suggests the next flavor will be coming from Oregon (bing cherry, boysenberry, marionberry, peach, pear and raspberry are the options—cast your vote), Dan might want to forget the “taste of Hawaii inside each bottle” and sell “BBQ Sauce With Fightin’ Fruit.” A 12-Ounce jar $5.50 at OregonDans.com. The line is gluten free.

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TIP OF THE DAY: Tortellini Kebabs For Hors d’Oeuvres & Snacks

Tortellini and cheese kebabs are a different twist on a party favorite—and they go great with wine and beer. Cook and cool cheese and/or spinach tortellini and marinate them in a vinaigrette or bottled Italian dressing. Drain and alternate on skewers with cubes of ham, salami, cheese (small mozzarella balls or perlini are perfect) and chunks of bell peppers. Then, watch them disappear! You can serve the skewers on a tray or stick them in a crusty round loaf of bread, a brick of cheese or a halved winter squash or a pumpkin, in season.

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PRODUCT: Amella Artisan Caramels

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Amella’s Black Forest Caramel: chocolate
caramel with cherries, creamy white icing
and shaved chocolate—just like a Black
Forest cake.

Amella Cocoa Butter Caramels are lip-smackingly good, made with butter, cream and real fruits and vegetables. Vegetables? Yes, in the Carrot Cake caramel. Aside from carrots, the twist that makes these different from other gourmet caramels is the addition of cocoa butter, which adds the silkiness to chocolate. Each caramel is hand-cut and individually hand-dipped, so no two are exactly identical (just like snowflakes!). They’re also certified kosher, all-natural, preservative-free and made in alluring flavors: Black Forest Cake, Passion Fruit and the aforementioned Carrot Cake.

In charming little boxes that hold three precious caramels, these are gifts for someone special, party favors, or pesonal treats because you deserve it. Read our full review.

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TIP OF THE DAY: Cheese Ice Cream

It’s National Ice Cream Month. If you love cheese, try making savory cheese ice creams. They don’t contain sugar, but they’re ice cream heaven! We’re addicted to superstar chef Ferrán Adria’s Parmesan ice cream sandwiches (our editor makes them every year for her birthday), as well as Roquefort ice cream with poached pears and Cheddar ice cream with apple tarts. Your guests will love them!

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Tillen Farms Natural Maraschino Cherries (Or Make Your Own)

The maraschino cherry is no longer a bad-tasting joke. Tillen Farms has created a delicious, all natural maraschino cherry—no artificial colors or flavors, no sulfites or preservatives, no high fructose corn syrup but real cane sugar.

And to think: America has been feeding these “standard” maraschino cherries to kids, who gobble up all that bad stuff!

The FDA’s Standard of Identity defines maraschino cherries as “cherries which have been dyed red, impregnated with sugar and packed in a sugar sirup‡ flavored with oil of bitter almonds or a similar flavor.” Sounds harmless enough, until you examine the details.

Now you can bring peace of mind to parents and happiness of palate to hot fudge sundaes and Shirley Temples, not to mention adult fare like a Tom Collins or a Manhattan.
 
 
TILLEN FARMS ALL-NATURAL MARASCHINO CHERRIES

Tillen Farms all-natural Merry Maraschino Cherries are the way to go with maraschino, made only with cherries, water, sugar, vegetable and fruit concentrate (for color) and natural flavor.

The product is free of artificial ingredients and preservatives, non-GMO, and gluten free. It is certified kosher by Star-K.

We like to give bottles as party favors and stocking stuffers. If you can’t find them locally, they’re readily available online.

Below:

> The history of maraschino cherries.

> How to make brandy-infused maraschino cherries.

Elsewhere on The Nibble:

> The history of cherries.

> The two species of cherries: sweet cherries and sour (tart) cherries.

> The year’s 15+ cherry holidays.

> Recipe for Black Forest Cake (chocolate and maraschino cherries).

  Jar Of Tillen Farms Maraschino Cherries & A Sundae
[1] Life can be a bowl of maraschino cherries (photos © Stonewall Kitchen).

Maraschino Cherry Whoopie Pies
[2] Making whoopie with maraschino cherries.

 
Maraschino Cherries In A Glass Of Prosecco
[3] If you love to eat maraschino cherries, make the brandy-infused recipe below and eat them from a glass of Prosecco. It’s our personal version of a “maraschino cocktail” (photo: The Nibble).
 
 
THE HISTORY OF MARASCHINO CHERRIES

The Marasca cherry (Prunus cerasus var. marasca) is a type of sour Morello cherry that grows largely in Bosnia, Croatia, Herzegovina, northern Italy and Slovenia. With a bitter taste and a drier pulp than other cherry varieties, they are ideal to make cherry (maraschino) liqueur.

The ubiquitous maraschino cherries were once quite elite, originally preserved in the liqueur as a delicacy for royalty and the wealthy.

In the 19th century, the preserved cherries became popular in the rest of Europe, but the Balkans supply was too small for the whole. Hence they became a pricey delicacy, largely confined to royalty and the wealthy.

Because of the relative scarcity of the Marasca tree, other cherries came to be preserved in various ways and sold as “maraschino,” leading to the red-dyed version we have come to know, with no liqueur but plenty of corn syrup.
 
The Marasca cherry tree is very fussy about where it will grow, so in the U.S., the Royal Ann cherry variety is used to make “maraschino” cherries.
 
 
MAKE YOUR OWN LIQUEUR-INFUSED MARASCHINO CHERRIES

You can purchase maraschino cherries from brands like Amarena or Luxardo, but we prefer the flavor of homemade.

This recipe creates a cherry that is sophisticated, firm, and deeply aromatic. If cherries are in season, use fresh Bing or Rainier cherries. Pit them, but leave the stems on if you want a “cocktail cherry” look. High-quality frozen dark sweet cherries work surprisingly well.

Use the infused cherries to garnish both sweet and savory foods: over desserts, as a garnish for grilled or roasted meat and poultry, even dropped into a Manhattan or other cocktail, or threaded on a cocktail pick.

Recipe tips:

  • One pound of pitted cherries typically fits into a pint jar with just enough room for the liquid to fill the gaps.
  • Depending on which cherry spirit you’re using, see the †footnote for sugar adjustments.
  •  
    Ingredients For 1 Pint

    For The Syrup

  • 1 cup sugar (raw or Demerara sugar adds a nice depth of molasses)
  • 1 cup juice/water (use the juice of the frozen cherries)
  • Pinch of salt
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • Optional: 2 whole cloves
  •  
    Plus:

  • 1 pound pitted cherries (we buy a bit extra “just in case” there’s room on the jar)
  • 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons cherry liqueur (see †footnote)
  • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
  •  
    Preparation

    1. MAKE the infusion liquid (syrup). In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the syrup ingredients. Bring to a simmer just until the sugar is dissolved (you don’t want to boil off the alcohol). Remove from the heat and let cool for 5 minutes.

    2. STIR IN the cherry liqueur and vanilla extract.

    3. PLACE the cherries in a clean glass jar. If you plan to keep them for more than 2-3 months, sterilize a Mason jar. See the *footnote.

    4. POUR the warm liquid over the cherries until they are completely submerged. Seal the jar and let it sit on the counter until it reaches room temperature, then move them to the refrigerator. While you can eat them in 24 hours, they are best after 2 weeks. They will keep in the fridge for several months.

    TIP: If you aren’t using Maraschino liqueur, add a drop of Almond Extract. True maraschino cherries get their flavor from the crushed pits, which taste like almonds.
     
    ________________
     
    *How to clean the jar: If you plan to use the cherries within 2-3 months and are keeping them in the refrigerator, you don’t need to go through a full formal sterilization process (i.e., boiling the jar in a pot of water). However, you should still follow “clean kitchen” practices. To “Hot Tap” Clean,” the jar and lid must be thoroughly washed in a dishwasher or by hand with very hot, soapy water. Then, rinse the jar with boiling water from a kettle right before filling it.

    Both the high sugar content and the alcohol inhibit bacterial growth. The biggest risk isn’t the jar, it’s cross-contamination. Never “double-dip”; always use a clean spoon or cocktail pick to get a cherry out of the jar. Never use your fingers: natural oils and bacteria from skin can cause the syrup to cloud or spoil faster.

    How to adjust the sugar: Since each variety of cherry spirit has a different level of sweetness, adjust the added sugar depending on which spirit you use. A quick rule of thumb: with Cherry Heering use 3/4 cup sugar, with maraschino liqueur use 1 cup sugar, and with Kirsch use 1-1/4 cups sugar. Here’s why:

    > Cherry Heering, sweet and jammy, provides the deepest red color and a thick, syrupy result. You might want to reduce the sugar in your syrup by 1 or 2 tablespoons, otherwise the final cherries might be cloying.

    > Maraschino liqueur like Luxardo (photo #3), clear and nutty, will deliver a more “botanical” and complex cherry flavor with high herbal notes and a strong almond finish from the pits. The syrup will be lighter in color than the naturally red maraschino liqueur. If you want that deep red “maraschino” color, you can add a few drops of beet juice or use the juice from the cherries if you’re using frozen ones.

    > Kirsch is strong, dry, and high proof, resulting in a much punchier, boozy cherry flavor. Since Kirsch has zero sugar, you should increase the sugar in the syrup by about 2 tablespoons to ensure the cherries still feel like a dessert garnish and not just fruit soaked in alcohol.

    Sirip vs. Syrup: While “sirup” is the historical spelling, and can even be found in some older official government and university agriculture manuals still in use. However, modern dictionaries list it as an obsolete.
     

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