THE NIBBLE BLOG: Products, Recipes & Trends In Specialty Foods


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TIP OF THE DAY: July 4th Patriotic Pound Cake

It couldn’t be easier to make this impressive holiday dessert. Cover rectangular slices of pound cake with whipped cream. Line up blueberries and raspberries (or strawberries diced to the size of blueberries) in “stripes” like the American flag. If the fruit isn’t as sweet as you’d like, toss it in a bit of sugar first (which is what the restaurants do—we use Equal or Splenda to save the calories). You can bake a pound cake in a large rectangular pan, cover with whipped cream and decorate to create horizontal red (raspberries), white (plain whipped cream) and blue (blueberries) stripes. If you have room in the freezer, you can make the ice cream cake variation of this dessert, substituting vanilla ice cream for the whipped cream. Patriotism is delicious.

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PRODUCT: Superfruit Jelly Beans—Yeah, Right!

This past Sunday, Monday and Tuesday, we tripped the light fantastic* (actually, lumbered around on a very hard concrete floor) of the Jacob Javits Center in New York City, along with some 24,000 other attendees in search of the newest specialty foods—140,000 were on display.

Usually we do a Best of Show list—and we’ll get to it over the weekend—but there was one standout as Strangest Of Show. That award goes to the new jelly bean Superfruit Mix from Jelly Belly, “sure to be a best super seller. Order today and take advantage of the hottest trend in today’s market.”

*The phrase, “trip the light fantastick,” was first published by John Milton in his 1645 poem, “L’Allegro.” Unlike its meaning in the acid culture of the 1960s, in the 1600s, “tripping” meant to dance. Light meant you were dancing nimbly, and fantastick was a compliment to the skill of the dancer.

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The açaí-flavored Jelly Belly. Earth to consumers: There is no antioxidant health benefit in “superfruit” jelly beans.

In fact, Jelly Belly took out a full page ad on the back page of the show directory, reminding retailers that forecasts peg the superfoods category as a $10 billion global industry by 2011, and Jelly Belly is poised to help them “capitalize on this fast-growing trend with their Superfruit Mix. Several thousand new superfruit products entered the marketplace in 2007-2008….Superfruits like the new, trendy Acai [sic] berry is at the center of this trend….as consumers increasingly turned to its juice for a delicious gulp of nutrients and antioxidants. On top of the trends as always, Jelly Belly has included Acai in their new Superfruit Mix.”

Ahem—is there a disconnect here? Consumers drink açaí juice for its antioxidants, but nobody except the truly delusional would eat jelly beans for the implied, although never stated, “nutrients and antioxidants.” This is the equivalent of a taffy company saying that, “Green tea is at the height of consumer interest, and our green tea-flavored taffy is poised to help you capitalize on consumers’ focus on green tea.” Are we that much of a self-deluding group of consumers?

The ad goes on to report that the açaí berry—the proper spelling and capitalization; for the record, the pronunciation is ah-sigh-YEE—was the overwhelming winner of last year’s Jelly Belly Dream Bean contest. Yes, 18,000 consumers voted to make it the new Jelly Belly flavor. It’s the headliner of the new Superfruit Mix, which “features real fruit juices and purées from Acai Berries, Barbados Cherries, Blueberries, Cranberries and Pomegranates….”

A little grounding in reality: You need to eat the pure fruit or its juice in order to get your dose of antioxidants; you won’t find them to any efficacious degree in a fruit-flavored ice cream, salad dressing, soda or jelly bean. While fruit and fruit juice are high in natural sugars, the refined sugars in the flavored, processed foods that tout “superfruits” (or green tea or anything else that has healthy coat tails) smack of P.T. Barnum marketing (“There’s a sucker born every minute”). The refined sugars in jelly beans will more than offset any superfruit value a consumer might hope would be there. (A 1.2-ounce serving of Jelly Belly has 140 calories, 0g fat, 0g protein, 37g carbohydrate of which 28g are sugars, and 10mg sodium. How much antioxidant power do you think is in the superfruit juice/purée flavoring? Not enough for any claims of efficacy, that’s for sure!

Of course, Jelly Belly has not made any claims of efficacy. But by co-opting the name “superfruit” for their product, they imply more than just the flavor of superfruits. Otherwise, call it Açaí-Cranberry-Pomegranate Mix. This way, you’re pulling the wool over the eyes of the sheep.

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PRODUCT: Bone Suckin’ Sweet Hot Mustard

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Just in time for peak hot dog grilling season.

  With July 4th a few days away, and the prospect of a whole summer of yummy franks on the grill, we’d like to suggest the addition of Bone Suckin’ brand’s Sweet Hot Mustard. Imagine America’s yellow hot dog mustard. (Yes, bright yellow mustard was invented here—French’s Cream Salad Brand Mustard was envisioned as a cooking ingredient, e.g. for potato and egg salad and just happen to coincide with the rise of the ballpark frank. See the history of mustard.) But Bone Suckin’s creamy, yellow mustard is at a gourmet level, with sweet and hot layers of flavor from brown sugar, molasses, paprika and jalapeños. There’s a tempered sweetness and medium heat—just enough heat to be interesting, but not enough to require a cold beer as an antidote (that part is purely optional).

We think you’ll love it as much as we do; you might also want to order some extra jars to bring as host/hostess gifts when you’re invited to a cookout. We love Bone Suckin’s Sweet Hot Mustard on hot dogs and burgers, but you can dip pretzels into it, spread it on sandwiches, mix it into potato salad and stir it into your favorite recipes. It’s all natural (no preservatives), gluten free, fat free, HFCS free and certified kosher (pareve) by OU. A 12-ounce jar is $6.79 at BoneSuckin.com.

By the way: Can you name the spice that gives yellow mustard its bright yellow color? The answer is below.

Answer: Turmeric, which also gives curry powder its deep yellow color, is responsible for the vibrant yellow of “ballpark” mustards as well.

  • See our Mustard Glossary for more about mustard.
  • See reviews of our favorite mustards.
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    TIP OF THE DAY: Scream For Ice Cream

    July is National Ice Cream Month and THE NIBBLE has labored to track down the very best. Perhaps you’d like a scoop of Molasses Tipsycake Ice Cream from LaLoo’s, or a cone of Strawberries, Sour Cream, and Brown Sugar Ice Cream from Dr. Bob’s. The Sweet Corn Ice Cream from Palapa Azul is another unusual winner.

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Unusual Ice Creams

    Today is Creative Ice Cream Flavor Day. Our wine editor is in demand for his beet, lavender and saffron ice creams—and he even makes ice cream from rare black truffle. If you don’t have time to make something special, look in your specialty foods store. One of our favorites, Reed’s Ginger Ice Cream (available at Whole Foods Markets, Trader Joe’s and elsewhere), comes in Original, Green Tea Ginger and Chocolate Ginger—each exquisite. One scoop of each—a dance of ginger ice creams—would make a memorable dessert. You can use them to top regular or chocolate pound cake, and apple pie, too.

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