THE NIBBLE BLOG: Products, Recipes & Trends In Specialty Foods


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What Is Quark Cheese? A Creamy, Slightly Tart Fresh Cheese


[1] Quark can be eaten like yogurt or used as a bread spread and in recipes (photo © Vermont Creamery).

Savory Pancakes Topped With Quark & Cherry Tomatoes
[2] Pancakes with savory garnish: Quark cheese and marinated cherry tomatoes. Here’s the recipe (photos #2, #4, #5, and #8 © Wisconsin Cheese).


[3] American style, creamy quark from Vermont Creamery (photo by Claire Freierman © THE NIBBLE).

Grilled Peaches With Quark
[4] Grilled peaches with lemon-honey Quark. Here’s the recipe (photo © Wisconsin Cheese).

Quark Cheese With Strawberries
[5] This Quark, drained in cheesecloth, creates a firm, rounded cheese.

Quark On Sourdough Bread
[6] The curds of this Quark have been coagulated into a spread resembling cream cheese (photo © Good Eggs).

A Bowl Of Quark - Cottage Cheese
[7] A bowl of Quark resembling cottage cheese (Freepik Photo).

Potato Salad With Quark Dressing
[8] Potato salad with Quark ranch dressing. Here’s the recipe.

 

If you like yogurt—or even if you don’t—try Quark cheese. Depending on who makes it, it’s smooth and creamy like Greek yogurt or sour cream, or more firm like cream cheese.

All textures are delish!

In fact, Quark has approximately the same amount of calories, but a richer flavor, than low-fat sour cream. So it’s a real find for your baked potato and chili.

Everything you need to know about Quark follows including

> The history of quark.

> How to serve quark.

Elsewhere on The Nibble, you’ll find:
 
> The history of cheese.

> The different types of cheese: a glossary. January 19th is World Quark Cheese Day.

> The year’s 30 cheese holidays.

> Other fresh cheeses including crème fraîche, fromage blanc, labné, mascarpone, and queso fresco.
 
 
WHAT IS QUARK? 

Quark is a soft, unripened (fresh) cow’s milk cheese. It’s traditionally used in both savory and sweet dishes: spread on bread, used in cheesecakes, mixed into dips, or eaten with fruit and honey.

In North America, the recipe is almost identical to fromage blanc, except that fromage blanc is totally fat-free.

Some American producers compare it to soft cream cheese. Others call is a cross between sour cream and ricotta.

And others describe it as similar to farmer’s cheese or cottage cheese. Whatever the descriptor, Quark has a creamy texture and a slightly tart taste, similar to a mild sour cream.

While it has yet to take off in the U.S., Quark is so popular in Germany that it accounts for almost half of that country’s total cheese production: The average German eats about 10 pounds of Quark a year.

In German, it’s pronounced “kvarg.”

You can find Quark in every German market. But it’s a different style than American Quark (details below).

In other parts of Europe, Quark is also known as koarg, kwark, qwark, quarg, twarog, saurmilchquark, speisequark and fromage frais.

In the U.S. and Canada, Quark has yet to catch on. It’s only made by artisan dairies, and some dairies make 2% and fat-free versions in addition to full-fat Quark.

The next time you see it, take it home and see how it enriches your daily dining. If you can’t find it locally, you can buy it online.
 
 
Making Quark 

At Vermont Creamery, Quark is made from cow’s milk that is coagulated overnight into fresh curd, using lactic acid or rennet to curdle the milk.

The next day, the curds are drained in cheesecloth and whipped with a trace of crème fraîche. Other producers add a small amount of cream.

The cheese is high in protein and often salt-free; while it’s naturally lowfat, there are nonfat versions as well.

Cheesemakers start by curdling milkThe curds are heated and stirred continuously to prevent hardening as it thickens.

The final product is a white, soft cheese that is sold and served without aging. It’s important to note that in the U.S., which does not have a tradition of making Quark, the artisans who have been making it for the last 20 years or so have developed their own recipes.

As a result, Quark can have the soft consistency of yogurt through the semi-firm consistency of cream cheese.
 
 
A Brief History Of Quark 

Quark has been made in German-speaking regions for centuries, although its exact origins are difficult to pinpoint.

The tradition of making fresh cheeses from soured milk goes back to ancient times across Europe, but quark as we know it became particularly associated with German, Austrian, and Eastern European cuisine.

Historical records suggest it’s been a staple food in these regions since at least the Middle Ages, valued for being an accessible source of protein that didn’t require the aging process of harder cheeses.

The word quark comes from the German (and related Slavic languages), where it refers to this type of fresh curd cheese. The term is believed to derive from the Slavic word tvarog (which refers to the same food). The dairy product name likely came through West Slavic languages into German.

In German, “Quark” can also colloquially mean “nonsense” or “rubbish,” although this meaning is unrelated to the cheese.

Although it’s been a kitchen staple in Germany, Poland, Russia, and neighboring countries for generations, quark remained relatively unknown in English-speaking countries until recent decades.
 
 
Why Are Atomic Particles Called “Quark” 

In 1963, physicist Murray Gell-Mann took the word from James Joyce’s novel “Finnegans Wake,” a reference to the sentence, “Three quarks for Muster Mark,” since the hypothetical particles came in threes.

He later connected it to the sound of the German word for cheese curd, quark—a happy coincidence, as the particles’ role as fundamental building blocks of matter mirror the “curd” idea. Here’s a full discussion.
 
 
Texture: Old World Vs. New World Styles

Quark is the German word for curds; curds are coagulated milk. Some definitions translate it as “cottage cheese.”

However, neither American nor European quark resembles what Americans know as cottage cheese, with recognizable curds. With quark, the curd consistency is smooth, like curdled milk (see photo below).

In Europe, some or most of the whey is removed by hanging the quark in cheesecloth and letting the whey drip off, to achieve the desired thickness. This gives artisan (handmade) European quark its distinctive shape of a wedge with rounded edges (photo #5).

In commercial production it is formed into blocks with the consistency of ricotta or pot cheese.

In the United States and Canada, quark can be a somewhat different product, most often sold in plastic tubs with most or all of the whey.

This creates a style that has the texture of yogurt or sour cream: a denser, more spreadable consistency (photo #3).

And then, there’s the texture that looks like cream cheese (photo #6) and the one that resembles cottage cheese (photo #7).

The texture of domestic quarks varies by the preference of the producer. Your task: Try as many different brands as you can, to see which you like the best.
 
 
HOW TO ENJOY QUARK

Both European and American styles are eaten the same way. Quark can be eaten directly like yogurt or sour cream, or substituted in recipes that use them.
 
Cooking With Quark 

Quark is so versatile, it can do almost anything and adds creamy flavor anywhere. You can use it as is:

  • As a bread spread (in Germany, it is mixed with chives but any savory or sweet mix-in works, as does plain).
  • In a dip (Wisconsin Cheese suggests mango chutney and lime for a spicy sweet-and-sour dip).
  • As a topper for granola or in a breakfast parfait.
  •  
    Unlike yogurt, the heat won’t curdle it.

  • Top a baked potato, chili, a bowl of soup, garnish, or anywhere you’d like a hit of yogurt or sour cream.
  • Substitute it for yogurt with/on anything.
  • Use instead of sour cream on potatoes, chili, anything.
  • Substitute it for ricotta to fill crepes.
  • Turn it into a creamy sauce for pasta dishes or anything else.
  • Mix it into vinaigrette for a creamy salad dressing.
  •  
    Some recipes to start you off:

  • Beet & Citrus Salad with Quark Dressing
  • Grilled Peaches with Lemon-Honey Quark
  • Lemony Blueberry Quark Mini Parfaits
  • Potato Salad with Quark Ranch Dressing
  •  
    Wine Pairings:

  • Crisp German and Austrian whites like Grüner Veltliner, Kabinett Riesling, and Müller-Thurgau.
  • Anything slightly acidic and off-dry: Chenin Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris (especially from Alsace or Oregon), rosé wines, and certain Pinot Noir or Beaujolais that have fruity notes, refreshing acidity, and hints of sweetness.
  •  
    _______________

    *In German, Quark and Topfen, the names of cheeses, are also used to mean “nonsense.” This latter usage is believed to be an inspiration for the passage written by James Joyce in his fanciful novel, Finnegan’s Wake: “Three quarks for Muster Mark!/Sure he hasn’t got much of a bark/And sure any he has it’s all beside the mark.”

    This excerpt is from a 13-line poem directed against King Mark, the cuckolded husband in the Tristan and Isolde (Iseult) legend. The use of the word “quark” to describe elementary particles of matter was taken from this poem by Murray Gell-Mann, the physicist who received the 1969 Nobel Prize for his work in classifying quarks. The allusion to three quarks seemed perfect to him, since originally there were only three subatomic quarks.
     
     

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Salad With Goat Cheese


    Salad with a creamy, fresh goat cheese
    crottin, halved. Photo courtesy Vermont
    Creamery, one of America’s greatest
    producers of goat cheese. Read our review.
      Whenever we see a goat cheese salad on a menu (chèvre is the French word), we order it.

    Typically served with mesclun or frisée, sometime with beets, sometime with toasted walnuts or pecans, it’s one of our favorite foods. And it’s so easy to make.

    We’ve hesitated to make it at home too often, because we love creamy, fresh goat cheese so much that an entire 10.5-ounce log can disappear at one meal.

    But we devised a new strategy: Buy one or two crottins at a time.

    A crottin (crow-TAHN) is a small, individual-size goat cheese shaped like a drum. But the name means something earthier in French: “dropping” or goat/horse dung.

    Why stick a cheese with a name like that? As the crottin ages, it becomes dark and hard and bears a resemblance to the animal dropping. Mostly, though, it’s enjoyed when fresh or moderately aged, resembling only a delicious, drum-shaped cheese.

    The small size makes a crottin, whole or halved, a popular pairing with a salad.

     

    Crottin is the signature goat cheese shape of the Loire Valley; Crottin di Chavignol, an AOC-designated cheese, has been produced in and around the village of Chavignol since the 16th century.
    MIX & MATCH GOAT CHEESE SALAD RECIPE INGREDIENTS

    Use a crottin or a one-inch slice from a log of goat cheese. You can buy a plain log or one rolled in ash, herbs, peppercorns and other spices. Or, roll a plain log in the coating of your choice before slicing,

    Cheese

  • Room temperature, plain or rolled in herbs, spices or chopped nuts
  • Warm cheese, baked plain or breaded in panko bread crumbs and fried (see footnote*)
  • Fresh or aged
  •  
    *To bake goat cheese: Preheat oven to 375°F. Season panko with a pinch of sea salt and add just enough olive oil to moisten. Roll cheese in crumbs; place cheese on a lightly greased cookie sheet and bake for 5 to 8 minutes or until soft.

     

    Salad Greens

  • Arugula
  • Frisée
  • Mesclun
  • Spinach
  • Watercress
  •  

    Vegetables

  • Grilled vegetables
  • Portobello mushrooms (see recipe for Grilled Portobello Mushroom With Herbed Salad & Goat Cheese
  • Roasted beets (substitute canned sliced beets or whole baby beets)
  •  

     


    Goat cheese crottins aging. Photo courtesy Vermont Creamery.

     

    Fruits

  • Apple slices
  • Berries (especially blueberries and strawberries)
  • Figs, whole, halved or sliced
  • Pear slices
  • Melon slices (including watermelon)
  • Tomatoes: grape tomatoes, halved cherry tomatoes, quartered heirloom tomato wedges
  •  
    Nuts, Raw Or Toasted

  • Hazelnuts
  • Pecans
  • Pistachios
  • Walnuts
  •  
    Dressing

  • Balsamic vinaigrette
  • Hazelnut or walnut oil vinaigrette with wine vinegar
  •  
    On The Side

  • Thinly-cut, toasted baguette slices
  •  
    WHY GOAT CHEESE IS GOOD FOR YOU

    Long considered an alternative for those with cow’s milk sensitivities, people who are lactose-intolerant (or otherwise have difficulty digesting milk products) can often enjoy goat cheese with impunity.

  • Goat’s milk is more digestible due to its smaller, naturally homogenized fat globules.
  • Goat’s milk also has a higher percentage of short- and medium-chain fatty acids than cow’s milk and is lower in cholesterol.
  • Goat cheese is higher in calcium, phosphorus, and vitamins A and B. Goat’s milk has virtually the same calories as cow’s milk.
  •  
    Here’s an overview of goat cheese and why it’s good for you, plus yummy recipes for goat cheese caramels and goat cheese fudge.

      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Try Whole Wheat Flour For Baking


    Snack on raisin walnut bread made with the
    more nutritious whole wheat flour. Photo
    courtesy U.S. Apple Association.
     

    For some reason, a lot of people don’t like the idea of whole wheat. They think that refined white flour tastes better.

    But whole wheat is more flavorful in a good way—not to mention much more nutritious. Give it a try, whether you choose whole grain pretzels for snacking or whole grain flour for baking.

    Whether it’s your famous apple pie, blueberry muffins, brownies, or cupcakes of other baked delights, you can up the nutrition by switching to whole wheat flour. Before you think you won’t like it, try it.

    Here’s why we all need more whole grains in our diets.

     
    HOW TO SUBSTITUTE WHOLE WHEAT FOR WHITE FLOUR

  • Substitute Equal Amounts. As a rule of thumb, you can replace white flour with the same amount of whole wheat flour. Just use the same type of flour, e.g. whole wheat bread flour for white bread flour or whole wheat all purpose flour for white all purpose flour.

    Bob’s Red Mill is one brand that sells whole wheat flour in all purpose, bread and pastry varieties. You can find them easily in natural food stores and online. If you can’t find whole wheat bread flour or pastry flour, use equal parts of all purpose whole wheat flour and regular bread or pastry flour.

  • Sift It More. Whole wheat flour produces a more dense crumb. To incorporate more air, sift whole wheat flour 1-2 times in addition to what the white flour recipe calls for and don’t over mix, which toughens the final result.
  • Spoon It, Don’t Scoop It. Another tip for keeping it light: Don’t scoop the flour with a measuring cup. Instead, use a spoon to transfer the flour from the bag to the measuring cup. This technique introduces more air into the mixture.
  • Substitute Half For Starters. For general baking, you can start by substituting just part or all of the all-purpose flour, e.g. if two cups of flour are called for, use one cup of all purpose flour and one cup of whole wheat flour.
  • For 100% Substitution: When completely substituting whole wheat flour for white flour, use a bit less: 7/8 cup of whole wheat instead of one cup of white flour, for example.
  •  

    RECIPE: WHOLE WHEAT QUICK BREAD WITH WALNUTS & RAISINS

    This tasty recipe from the U.S. Apple Association is a treat for breakfast, brunch, snacks and the dinner bread basket or cheese plate. It’s a cousin of carrot bread and other healthier alternatives.

    While the original recipe didn’t include dried fruit, we love raisin-walnut bread so added raisins. You can use blueberries, cherries or cranberries, or cut up larger dried fruits such as apricots and dates.

    This bread is delicious with almost any cheese, and makes delightful tea sandwiches with cream cheese.

    Ingredients

  • 2 cups whole wheat flour
  • 1/4 cup bran flakes
  • 1/4 cup wheat germ
  • 2 teaspoons ground allspice
  • 2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • ¼ teaspoon ground cloves
  • ½ cup 100% apple juice or cider
  • 1/2 cup applesauce
  • 1/2 cup plain or vanilla yogurt
  • 1/3 cup honey
  • 1/3 cup vegetable oil
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 cup chopped walnuts
  • 1 cup raisins
  •  


    It’s easy to find whole wheat flour in natural food stores. Photo courtesy Bob’s Red Mill.

     

    Preparation

    1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease and flour a 9×5 loaf pan.

    2. In a large bowl, combine the flour, bran flakes, wheat germ, allspice, baking powder, baking soda and cloves. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients.

    3. In a small bowl, mix the apple juice, applesauce, yogurt, honey, oil and eggs. Beat well and pour in to the center of the dry ingredients. Stir to combine without over mixing.

    4. Fold in the nuts and raisins and spoon the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 50-55 minutes, or until a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean. Let cool in the pan for 10 minutes; turn out of the pan onto a wire rack. Cool completely before cutting.

    Yield: 12-15 slices.

    Find more apple recipes from the U.S. Apple Association.

      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Exciting Vegan Sushi Ideas


    Pickle Me: a recipe with six grain rice,
    avocado, carrot, gobo, and pickled daikon.
    Photo courtesy Beyond Sushi.
     

    In our book, to say you were a contestant on the Gordon Ramsay bleepfest TV show, Hell’s Kitchen, is not a status credential. The majority of cheftestants, who can curse expertly but can’t consistently cook a simple piece of fish or beef, engender incredulity that they hold down professional jobs.

    But Guy Vaknin, who was eliminated early on in the show’s recently concluded Season 10, proves that a Ramsay reject can open an inspired specialty eatery and do a terrific job. Who can get excited about Hell’s Kitchen’s pasta or scallop dishes when there’s Vaknin’s innovative sushi to be had?

    No Fish

    Beyond Sushi, the vegan sushi restaurant in New York City created by Vaknin (who was previously a kosher chef/caterer), offers an aesthetic alternative to traditional sushi. Yes, there‘s no fish in this sushi. Sushi simply means vinegared rice: su = vinegar, shi = rice.

    The fare is an inspired approach to sushi that just happens to be low in sodium: No soy sauce is used. Instead, Chef Vaknin uses flavored vegetable purées as sauces for the sushi.

     
    Vegetarians, vegans and omnivores alike will be charmed by these vegetable and fruit beauties. If the idea excites you, visit Beyond Sushi’s Facebook page, check out the photo gallery and roll your own.

    No White Rice

    There’s also no white rice in Vaknin’s sushi. In the name of nutrition, flavor and aesthetics, Chef Vaknin employs black Chinese forbidden rice and a six grain rice made from rye berries (the whole kernel, which is ground to make rye flour for baking), two types of barley, black rice, brown rice and red rice. (Check out the different types of rice in our Rice Glossary, along with an overview of whole grains).

    No Soy Sauce

    Vaknin also cuts down on the sodium inherent in classic sushi, via the soy sauce. Even low sodium soy sauce has more than a meal’s allotment of sodium (Kikkoman’s low sodium soy sauce, for example, has 575 mg sodium per tablespoon, compared with 920 mg for its regular soy sauce).

    Instead, all rolls are served with sauces made from tofu or veggie purée, such as carrot-ginger, jalapeño-wasabi, mango-chili, shiitake-teriyaki, toasted cayenne and white miso.

    Vegetarians, vegans and omnivores alike will be charmed by these vegetable beauties, some with fruit accents. If the idea excites you, visit Beyond Sushi’s Facebook page, check out the photo gallery and roll your own.

    Then, serve your beautiful and healthful creations for lunch, dinner, snacks and cocktail fare. It will have special fans among:

  • Vegetarians, vegans and pregnant women who are tired of the limited vegetarian options in conventional sushi bars: asparagus, avocado, carrot, cucumber and pickled vegetable rolls.
  • Kids who like sushi but not fish.
  • Foodies who want something different and exciting.
  •  

    THE VEGAN SUSHI MENU

    Vaknin scours farmers markets for the inspiration to combine great flavors, colors and textures. On the Beyond Sushi menu you’ll find:

  • CRUNCH N MUNCH: Black rice with alfalfa, baked tofu, English cucumber and kiwi, with white miso sauce.
  • GREEN MACHINE: Six grain rice with English cucumber, basil leaf, marinated veggies and white asparagus,with jalapeño wasabi sauce.
  • LA FIESTA: Black rice with avocado, chayote, cilantro and picked red onion, with mango chili sauce.
  • HARICAT: Black rice with carrot, grilled haricots vert (green beans) and mango, with sweet soy mirin sauce.
  • MIGHTY MUSHROOM: Six grain rice with arugula microgreens, enoki and shiitake muchrooms and tofu, with shiitake teriyaki sauce.
  •  


    Black rice, avocado, cucumber, mango and spicy veggies, topped with toasted cayenne sauce. Photo courtesy Beyond Sushi.

     

  • NUTTY BUDDY: A wrap roll with avocado, baked tofu, buckwheat noodles, carrots, cilantro, crushed peanuts, jalapeño peanut butter and romaine dressed with sesame oil and served with sweet soy mirin sauce.
  • PICKLE ME: Six grain rice with avocado, carrot, gobo, and pickled daikon, served with carrot ginger sauce.
  • SPICY MANG: Black rice, avocado, cucumber, mango and spicy veggies, served with toasted cayenne sauce.
  • SWEET ANGEL: A wrap roll with angel hair whole wheat noodles, alfalfa sprouts, asparagus, baked sweet potato, chili flakes and romaine, served with toasted cayenne sauce.
  • SWEET TREE: Six grain rice with alfalfa sprouts, avocado and sweet potato, served with toasted cayenne sauce.
  •  
    There are also a special Rolls Of The Month. You can enter your idea for the chance to win dinner for two. Some recent winners:

  • Broccolini, beets, mango, sautéed Swiss chard and coriander-tumeric chickpea purée with chia seed encrusted black rice, topped with roasted red pepper sauce and fresh tarragon.
  • Tamarind-red wine vinegar heirloom tomato marmalade with six grain rice, garnished with a dehydrated cherry tomato chip.
  • Roasted cumin cauliflower with six grain rice and coriander chickpea purée, topped with roasted red pepper sauce and cilantro.
  •  
    September’s special roll is black rice with Dijon-crusted roasted celery root and peaches topped with a blend of red cabbage, cilantro and celery and finished with celery root purée and whiskey marinated mustard seeds.

    Are you ready to roll?
     
    HOW WELL DO YOU KNOW YOUR SUSHI?

    Check out our Sushi Glossary.

      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Añejo Tequila With Dessert


    Añejo Tequila is delicious with chocolate.
    Photo courtesy Partida Tequila.
      Yesterday we suggested adding spirits to baked goods. Today, it’s a shot of Tequila with dessert. More specifically, enjoy a small snifter of añejo (aged)Tequila with your favorite dessert (the different types of tequila).

    Añejo is not mixing Tequila; it’s sipping Tequila. Last night we enjoyed some añejo with an iced chocolate square and vanilla ice cream.

    Wafting up from the snifter, the nose delivered light notes of almond, cherry, dried fruit and spice. The palate included banana, chocolate, honey and pear. Any wonder that this Tequila is so dessert-friendly?

    Añejo Tequila is aged 1 year or longer, during which time it acquires complex aromas, intense flavors and coppery color from the oak barrels. Partida Añejo, one of the greatest Tequila brands, is aged in used Jack Daniels barrels for 18 months.

     

    Enjoy a glass of añejo Tequila with apple pie, banana desserts, chocolate desserts (including churros), crème brûlée, ice cream, poached pears—try it with any dessert. If the pairing is a hit with you, get to work on these other dessert and alcohol pairings.

    A simple but wonderful “dessert” is top-quality dark chocolate with a side of añejo.

    You can also infuse dessert sauces with Tequila, such as this Tequila-custard sauce for fresh berries.
    AGED TEQUILA: A BRIEF HISTORY

    While Tequila has been distilled in Mexico since the arrival of the Conquistadors in the late 1520s, the aged Tequila styles, reposado and añejo, were developed in the early 1900s.

    The move to aging happened when tequila producers thought to use the leftover brandy, rum and red wine casks that had been shipped from Spain to supply the Spanish aristocracy. This innovation changed the overall quality and taste of Tequila, which until then had been raw (unaged blanco/silver/white tequila) and without complexity.

    More history of Tequila.

     


    You can even enjoy añejo Tequila with simple shortbread or sugar cookies. Here, the rim of the glass is dipped into brown sugar. Photo courtesy Partida Tequila.

     

      

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