In the New York area, online grocer FreshDirect.com is so ubiquitous that it’s often hard to think of it as a Northeast regional business.

It overs only five states: Connecticut, Delaware, New Jersey, New York and Pennsylvania. While there are numerous online grocers covering the country, Fresh Direct is known for delivering top quality produce, meats and seafood and prepared foods, as well as non-perishables.

And such convenience: The customer picks the delivery time, 7 days a week. Your order can arrive from 7:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. weekdays or 7:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Sundays—just the flexibility that those of us who work long hours need.

The company is committed to sourcing the best and newest products for its customers and to helping small farmers optimize their revenue.

That’s what happened on a trip to Alderfer Farm, a fourth generation family farm in Pennsylvania that produces organic eggs. David McInerny, a co-founder of Fresh Direct, inquired about eggs he saw that were set aside from the rest.

The brown farmer’s egg compared to a large organic egg. Photo courtesy Fresh Direct.

“We don’t sell them,” was the response. “Retailers don’t want them. So we send them to breaking companies,” where they are cracked and packaged for foodservice or other applications.

PULLET EGGS, NOW SOLD AS “FARMER’S EGGS”

But these smaller eggs are actually tastier, and are a “secret” product enjoyed by the farmers themselves, unknown by the outside world. (Similarly, hanger steak was kept by the butchers for their own families, until it was discovered by chefs.)

A young hen, called a pullet, will begin to lay eggs at 19-20 weeks. Pullet eggs are much smaller, but produce fluffier cooked eggs with creamier yolks. The tight albumen sets up better for poached eggs. The shells are harder, which means low likelihood of bits of shell falling into the cracked egg.

Part of the flavor and the deeper color of the yolk is because pullets are pickier eaters: They pick out the corn from the feed mix.

The eggs are sold by Fresh Direct as “farmer’s eggs” under FreshDirect’s private label brand, Just FreshDirect, three times a year.

Farmer’s eggs are available through the end of the month, or while supplies last; will be available again in late May or early June, and in September, as the latest crop of pullets starts to produce; and only are produced for four weeks, when the pullet grows larger and produces larger eggs.

If you want a better-tasting egg, give them a try. We’d like to add our observation that organic eggs in general taste better than conventional eggs (due in part to superior feed).

You’ll also enjoy these “farmer’s eggs” knowing that the hens are:

 
The calories are lower, too: 50 calories, compared to 70 calories in a large egg. One dozen organic eggs are $3.69.
 
HOW MANY DIFFERENT TYPES OF EGGS HAVE YOU TRIED?

Check out the different types of eggs in our Egg Glossary.

Also new in the refrigerator case is Just Fresh Direct pasteurized organic milk.

Isn’t all milk pasteurized? Yes, but for years it has been ultrapasteurized, to afford retailers a 60-90 day shelf life.

Ultrapasteurization (also called UHT, for ultra-high temperature) is the process of super-heating milk or cream to 275°F for 4 to 15 seconds or 280°F for at least two seconds. Regular pasteurization heats the milk to 161°F for 15 seconds.

The ultra-high temperature kills off all bacteria—not just the harmful ones, but the benign ones that can potentially sour milk but also provide flavor to fresh milk. Now, you can enjoy Just Fresh Direct’s fresher-flavor organic milk with your better-tasting organic eggs.

FOOD HISTORY: Routine pasteurization in the U.S. began around 1920, as a way to prevent illnesses caused by contaminated milk, including tuberculosis. Here’s the scoop.
  

“I’m infusing every morsel that crosses my path with a bit of edible sunshine while the real thing plays hard to get,” says Hannah. “Grapefruits, oranges, lemons and limes are always close at hand, spilling out of the refrigerator fruit bin and lining the kitchen counters with a cheerful spray of neon colors. Their natural luminescence does wonders to lift spirits through the most gloomy of days. But it’s truly the bold, bright, astringent flavors that sustain me through winter.

“This year, I’ve added a newcomer to that lineup: the petite yet powerful clementine. Cuties Clementines [in California’s San Joaquin Valley] were generous enough to ship an entire crate of these glowing orange orbs straight to my door.

“Not to be overly dramatic, but what a revelation! Gone are the days of meticulously picking at the stringy pith of oranges before the segments become edible. The skin practically falls off of these juicy half-moons, nary a seed in sight.”

Clementines are mandarins, not oranges. “Tangerines” are a made-up term for a mandarin in general—see why below. Photo © Hannah Kaminsky | Bittersweet Blog.

Clementines from California are available from November through April. Not only are they naturally sweet and delicious; they’re also seedless, compact, and easy to peel. This makes them perfect for fruit bowls, backpacks, lockers, glove compartments, tote bags and even back pockets.

You can use clementines anywhere mandarins and oranges are called for, from a breakfast yogurt parfait to sorbet to the clementine tart below.

RECIPE: CLEMENTINE & MATCHA TAPIOCA TARTLETS

“Bursting with flavor, sweeter and more mellow than an orange but still plenty punchy, clementines sounded like the ideal pairing with matcha,” says Hannah, whose sweet spot (pun intended) is vegan desserts. She has published several books on the topic.

“Cutting through the bitter powdered tea and balancing out the whole dessert, clementine segments top chewy tapioca pearls, cradled in the easiest mini tart shell you’ll ever slap together. There’s no need to break out the rolling pin: This crust is merely pressed into the pans and won’t slip or slide under the heat of the oven. There’s no need for pie weights.”

The recipe is cholesterol-free and vegan (although you can use conventional milk and butter).

Press-In-Pan Olive Oil Pastry Crust

 
Matcha Tapioca

 
To Finish

 
Preparation

1. PREHEAT oven to 375°F; lightly grease 10-12 three-inch tartlet molds.

2. MAKE crust: Mix together the flour, sugar and salt in a large bowl. Add the olive oil and lemon juice, stirring thoroughly to incorporate. Drizzle in the water very slowly, adding just enough to bring the dough together without making it wet or sticky.

3. BREAK off 2-3 tablespoons of dough for each tartlet and press it evenly across the bottoms and up the sides of the molds. Make sure there aren’t especially thick edges left around the base, so that the entire crust cooks evenly.

4. BAKE for 10-15 minutes, turning the pan around halfway through the process to ensure even baking, until golden brown all over. Let cool completely before popping the shells out of the molds.

5. MAKE the tapioca: Pour 2 cups of very hot water over the pearls and allow them to soak for 2-3 hours. This will soften them and prevent hard centers from remaining after cooking. Rinse with cold water and thoroughly drain.

6. PLACE the soaked pearls in a medium saucepan along with the milk. Whisk together the sugar, matcha, cornstarch and arrowroot in a separate bowl and break up any clumps of matcha.

7. ADD mixture to the pot and place over medium heat on the stove. Allow the mixture to come up to a boil, whisking periodically. Be sure to scrape along the sides and bottom to prevent sticking and burning. Once the mixture bubbles vigorously for a full minute, turn off the heat; then add the butter/margarine and vanilla extract. Stir until the butter/margarine has completely melted; then distribute the mixture between the baked tart shells, filling them to the top.

8. COOL the tapioca filling fully; then top with clementine segments and optional mint leaves (if the leaves are large, cut into a chiffonade [finely cut strips]). Serve at room temperature or chill for 2 hours.
 
 
CLEMENTINES ARE NOT ORANGES

There are three basic citrus types—citron, mandarin and pummelo—from which all modern citrus derives via hybrids or backcrosses.

While they look like small oranges and are often called “mandarin oranges,” mandarins are a separate species that includes the clementine, mineola (red tangelo), murcott (also called honey tangerine), tangelo, temple and satsuma, among others.

 
Clementines alone have numerous sub-species, some more commercial than others (the Clemenules Clementine is the largest commercially grown variety). “Cuties” are a marketing name for clementine mandarins generally sold before Christmas. The same fruit is called a murcott or tango mandarin after the holidays. Why ask why?

More Confusion

Mandarins are also called loose-skin oranges—a usage which is both unfortunate and confusing given the numerous, highly distinctive differences between the two genuses. According to the experts at U.C. Davis:

 
The mandarin probably originated in northeastern India, home of the Indian wild mandarin, Citrus indica Tan. As with all agriculatural products, many hybrids followed. The King and Kunenbo mandarins, for example, originated in Indo-China and the Satsuma mandarin originated in Japan. The Mediterranean mandarin is believed to have been cultivated in Italy.

The mandarin reached the Mediterranean basin in the early 1800s, and about 1825 in Florida. Thanks to the University of California Davis for providing this information. You can read more here.

It’s also modest in calories—94 per half cup—with 10 grams of protein, zero cholesterol and just 1% carb, which is dietary fiber. There are large amounts of calcium and iron and nice hits of B6 and magnesium. It’s a gluten-free product.

We’re neither vegetarian or vegan, but a few years ago we started to add more tofu to our diet as a New Year’s resolution to cut back on cholesterol-laden proteins and to eat more sustainably (animal methane is the #1 contributor to greenhouse gas).

Now, we’re hooked. At Asian restaurants, we’ll typically choose a tofu dish over more “meaty” options.

Don’t be afraid to experiment at home. Tofu is very easy to work with once you try it. As you learn the range of tofu styles available, you’ll discover how it can add a new dimension to your cooking.

Tofu is:

We love to snack on fried tofu instead of mozzarella sticks. Enjoy them with a fat-free Greek yogurt dip or with a ponzu sauce dip with toasted sesame seeds and sliced green onions. Photo by Sakurai Midori | Wikimedia.

There are different styles of tofu, and the recipes will specify the style of tofu you need.

There’s no need to buy a tofu recipe book; but if you want to learn to make your own at home, this book, Asian Tofu, is a great resource.

But you can start at HouseFoods.com, which has numerous recipes in every meal category.
 
TOFU TIPS

These popcorn squares from Popcorn.org are a crunchy companion to yesterday’s popcorn ice cream. They’ve got just the right amount of sweetness to satisfy, plus popcorn, a whole grain.

While they’re appropriate munching for the Golden Globes or Academy Awards, they’re also good picnic fare.
 
 
RECIPE: POPCORN SQUARES

Ingredients For 12 Squares

 
Halloween Option

1. COMBINE corn syrup, sugar, brown sugar and peanut butter in a large saucepan.

2. BRING to a boil over low heat, stirring constantly; boil 2-3 minutes. Remove saucepan from heat.

3. COMBINE popcorn and raisins in large bowl; pour hot mixture over popcorn and toss carefully with wooden spoons to mix until well-coated.

4. SPRAY a 9 x 13-inch baking dish with cooking spray; press popcorn mixture into pan and cool completely.

5. CUT into squares and serve.

 
Find more fun popcorn recipes at Popcorn.org.

Lights, camera, ice cream fun!

Getting ready for the Golden Globes this Sunday? Can’t wait to see Tina Fey and Amy Poehler do their thing?

Here’s just the “golden” treat to serve: Caramel Popcorn Ice Cream.

Head to Baskin-Robbins and stock up on the flavor of the month, Movie Theater Popcorn Ice Cream.

The “show-stopper” features popcorn-flavored ice cream with crisp butter popcorn-flavored rice crisps and a salty caramel ribbon.

Bring home quarts, or enjoy a Movie Theater Popcorn: two scoops of popcorn ice cream with caramel topping, whipped cream, nuts, and a cherry on top, in a freshly baked waffle bowl.

You can get a free waffle cone upgrade with the purchase of a double scoop of ice cream, at participating locations.

And if you want it for the Academy Awards on March 2nd, put some into deep freeze and resist the temptation to eat it before then.

We’ve got the scoop on how to make your own popcorn ice cream.
 
 
RECIPE #1: MAKE YOUR OWN POPCORN ICE CREAM

This recipe is from by chef Andy O.C. Husbands of Tremont 647 and Sister Sorel in Boston’s South End. It’s adapted from his book Wicked Good Barbecue (with co-authors Andrea Pyenson and Chris Hart). It’s a big hit with his customers.

For maximum flavor, let the popcorn steep in the custard overnight.

There’s a hack for easy popcorn ice cream below.

Ingredients For 1 Quart

 
Preparation

1. POP the corn. If popping your own corn, place the popcorn kernels and oil in a 2-quart saucepan over medium-high heat. Holding the pan by the handle, quickly shake it back and forth over the burner.

When the first kernel pops (after 1 to 3 minutes), cover the pan and continue to shake it while more kernels pop.

When the popping slows to 1 to 2 pops every 10 seconds, remove the pan from the heat and transfer the popcorn to a bowl.

Measure out 4 cups of popcorn and reserve. Save the extra popcorn for garnish.

2. WARM the half-and-half, heavy cream and vanilla bean in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat, until you see small bubbles forming around the edges of the pan.

Do not let the mixture reach a boil, or the half-and-half will curdle.

Remove from the heat and set aside.

3. BEAT the egg yolks and sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat on medium speed until the mixture is thick and light in color, 2 to 3 minutes.

Keeping the mixer on medium, gradually add about half of the hot cream mixture to the egg yolks, mixing until smooth.

Pour the contents of the mixer bowl into the remaining cream in the saucepan; mix well.

4. PLACE the pan over medium-low heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture registers at 180°F on an instant-read thermometer, about 10 minutes. It should be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.

Remove the pan from the heat and discard the vanilla bean. Pour the custard into a large metal bowl and stir in the 4 cups of popcorn.

Cover and refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours.

5. STRAIN the popcorn custard through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, pressing down on the popcorn to squeeze out as much liquid as possible.

Churn in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

When the ice cream is almost frozen, add the sea salt and churn to fully incorporate.

6. GARNISH servings of ice cream with the reserved extra popcorn.
 

A HACK FOR EASY POPCORN ICE CREAM

Soften your favorite flavor of ice cream and mix in caramel corn. Return to the freezer until ready to eat.

You can also add chocolate chips, nuts, mini-marshmallows, or whatever you like.
 
 
HOW MUCH DO YOU KNOW ABOUT ICE CREAM?

Check out the different types of ice cream in our delicious Ice Cream Glossary.

[1] Yes, it’s popcorn ice cream! (photo © Baskin-Robbins).

[2] Another take on popcorn ice cream (photo © Breaking Bread Blog).

[3] Caramel popcorn ice cream with a fancy cookie. Here’s the recipe (photo © The Feed Feed).

[4] How about popcorn ice cream cones? Here’s the recipe (photo © Cookies & Cups).

[5] How about a popcorn ice cream sandwich? Here’s the recipe (photo © National Popcorn Association).