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TIP OF THE DAY: 10 Chef’s Tricks To Change Up Your Foods (Part 1)


Slice, caramelize and add to salads. Photo
courtesy Microplane.
  Chef Johnny Gnall shares this inspiration for cooking. He calls it “Going Against The Grain: Raw Foods You Should Try Cooking And (Typically) Cooked Foods You Should Try Raw.”

Johnny chose 10 common ingredients and switched them from their typical use to “the other side.” The first five tips are presented here; the next five tips will be published tomorrow.

Have fun with it and enjoy the delicious results.

1. Apples…without the pie! The next time you crave apple pie but don’t want to deal with the fuss (or the calories and gluten) of the crust, try this recipe: Start with two apples; peel, core and thinly slice them. Over medium heat, melt a tablespoon of butter and add the apples; cook for five to ten minutes, stirring often. Halfway through the cooking process, add a tablespoon of honey, agave or sugar and a pinch of cinnamon (less is more with cinnamon).

 

Once everything is soft, golden brown and luscious, you are ready to eat! Feel free to top with some vanilla ice cream (if you’re feeling indulgent) or some plain yogurt (for a healthier alternative).

2. Bananas… are ready to go bananas! If you’ve ever had Bananas Foster, you know where this is going. You can turn an ordinary banana into an indulgent dessert, even without the rum, liqueur and vanilla ice cream, by caramelizing it in a pan. You up the sweetness and give the texture a kick in the pants, all in less than five minutes. Cut a banana into four pieces: first cut in half, then cut lengthwise along each half to create four flat surfaces. Melt a tablespoon of butter in a pan and add a tablespoon of brown sugar, stirring to dissolve it into the butter. Making sure your pan is hot (a few drops of water flung onto the surface should form balls and “dance”), place the bananas into the pan, flat side down. At this point, you will probably have to play with the heat to get it just right, but you want to cook the bananas just until you get a nice, caramelized crust on the outside without charring the sugar. Let them cool a bit before eating: The sugar will be hot!

 

3. Butter…goes brown! This is a simple trick that will add volumes to your cooking repertoire. The next time a recipe calls for a substantial amount of butter, think about turning it into brown butter. All you have to do is heat your butter in a pan on medium-high heat, until it—wait for it—turns brown! Be careful, as things can quickly go from brown to black if you don’t pay attention, and black butter is appropriate…to be thrown away. Ideally you should have at least a half a cup of butter so that you can clearly see when it’s ready. So if a recipe calls for less, make a big batch, use what you need, and cool the rest for later use. Brown butter is a very wintery flavor and adds earthy notes to sauces, meats, vegetables, you name it.

Brown butter pairs particularly nicely with citrus, as its earthiness is balanced by bright acidity. Or just toss some vegetables in it for a fresh take on an everyday side.

 
Brussels sprouts are delicious as crudités (raw veggies). Photo by Zsuzsanna Kilian |
SXC.
 
4. Brussels sprouts…are just tiny cabbages! That means that you can treat them like cabbage. Some people know Brussels sprouts as the vegetable served over-boiled into unpleasantness. Cooked lightly, they are a tasty and versatile vegetable. Try them raw: Just slice off the tough bottom (where you can see the stem) and either pull off the leaves, or shred the whole head with a knife or mandolin. You need little more than some olive oil, salt and pepper to make a super-simple and tasty salad. Pickled onions or raw red onions, thinly sliced, also work quite well. Discover the delicious raw vegetable you never knew.

5. Citrus…has a secret! Some people think of oranges as the ultimate raw food. The good ones are bursting with flavor, sweet and bright as is. Lemons and limes are as versatile as a food gets, balancing saltiness and adding a bright punch to just about anything, cooked or raw. But if you put a bit of caramelization on your citrus, you unlock a rounder, earthy flavor. You can take a bit of the tart edge off and still have that bright, lemony flavor you love.

Cut the fruit into rounds about a quarter of an inch thick, brush them with oil and sear them on a grill or in a very hot sautée pan. Once you get some deep brown color on a good part of the fruit’s surface, flip it and brown the other side. On the grill this should take 30 seconds or less; a sauté pan is more variable, so just keep an eye on it. Then add the caramelized citrus to a sauce or stew for a new depth of flavor. If you slice the rounds thin enough and cook them carefully, you can even add them to salads to be eaten whole, rind and all. Or keep things simple and squeeze over a piece of fish for a bright new take on a classic garnish.

CONTINUE TO PART 2

  

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PRODUCT: Baked Brookster Mix, A Brownie/Cookie Combo

If you need a Valentine gift, run to your nearest Williams-Sonoma store to pick up a box of Baked Brookster Mix (also available online).

Brookster? We’re guessing “brookie” was already trademarked. But a mix by any other name would taste as yummy.

Popular New York City bakery, Baked Brooklyn, combines a fudgy brownie with a chewy chocolate chip cookie, all in one Brookster. Now, you don’t need to decide which of these favorites to bake.

The all-natural mix is made with Baked’s signature chocolates, premium Guittard cocoa and Barry Callebaut semi-sweet chocolate chips. The box includes the brownie mix, chocolate chip cookie mix and chocolate chips. You just add butter and eggs and bake in a large muffin pan for three-inch-diameter cookies. Voilà: 18 Brooksters.

Brookster Mix is available exclusively at Williams-Sonoma, as a solo box of baking mix ($16.95), and in combination with the large muffin pan needed to bake the Brooksters, $29.95. The $16.95 price is not unreasonable for a premium-ingredients mix; you couldn’t buy 18 large brownie/cookies for twice that.

And what’s the value of deliciousness?

  • Favorite Cookie & Brownie Recipes
  • History Of The Brownie
  • History Of The Chocolate Chip Cookie
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    We’re fansters of Brooksters. Photo courtesy Williams-Sonoma.
     

      

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    PRODUCT: Diet Snapple Half ‘n Half


    Photo courtesy Snapple.
      Snapple didn’t invent the “Half ‘n Half,” a refreshing beverage made of half iced tea, half lemonade.

    The drink was popularized by golfing great Arnold Palmer.

    As the story goes, in the 1960s, after a long day spent designing a golf course in Palm Springs, Palmer asked a bartender for a mixture of lemonade and iced tea.

    A woman sitting next to him told the bartender, “I’ll have that Palmer drink”—which quickly became known as an “Arnold Palmer.”

    Whether Palmer created it himself or got the idea elsewhere is currently lost to history. And the term “Half ‘n Half” has long been used in the U.K. to describe various combinations of beverages.

     

    So don’t be confused when you see Diet Snapple’s new Half ‘n Half. It’s a diet Arnold Palmer—and it’s delicious.

    The entire 16-ounce bottle has just 10 calories,* and it’s worth many times that in terms of refreshment. The sweeteners are sucralose and acesulfame potassium. There’s no “diet” taste: just total deliciousness.

    Mix your alcohol of choice into an Arnold Palmer and you get a John Daly—named for a golfer who is not happy that his name is being used. But if you want to put some vodka (or citrus vodka) in your Half ‘n Half, Diet Snapple provides the base for a low-calorie cocktail.
    *Per 8-ounce serving: 5 calories, 0 g total fat, 5 mg sodium, 1 total carb, 0 g sugar, 0 g protein.

      

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    VALENTINE GIFT: Healthy Black Currants

    First, the truth about currants: Most products called currants are raisins, in a botanical family unrelated in any way to the current, except at the highest, Kingdom, level (*detail addicts, see the footnote at the bottom of this article).

    As for why real currants were banned from America for 82 years, read the story, a tale of government lobbyists and legislators. They were brought back, legally, in 2003. Given the limited crops and distributions, most living Americans have never had real currents—at least, not in the U.S. Zante currants are raisins.

    So, how about a healthy Valentine’s Day gift of currants?

     
    A high-antioxidant Valentine gift. Photo
    courtesy CurrantC.com.
     

    Real black currants are packed with antioxidants, vitamin C, potassium and omega-3s. They have been shown to prevent liver cancer and are currently being studied as prophylactics against Alzheimer’s disease, heart disease, kidney stones, urinary track infections and vision disorders (more information). When promising tests conclude, the run on black currants and currant juice may be bigger than that on green tea.

    CurrantC, a pioneer in growing currants following the lifting of the ban in 2003, has several gift items in addition to conventionally packaged juice and dried and frozen currants. Gifts are available from $13.99 to $47.99; the deluxe gift basket shown in the photo, includes:

  • CurrantC All Natural Black Currant Nectar
  • CurrantC All Natural Black Currant Syrup, to use instead of maple syrup
  • CurrantC Genuine Dried Black Currants, a delicious snack and topping for oatmeal, yogurt and in baked goods
  • CurrantC Dark Chocolate/Black Currant bar with pine nuts
  • CurrantC Red Currant Candle, made with clean-burning soy wax
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    We highly recommend the currant concentrate, which mixes up into a delicious juice.
     
     
     
    *They’re not even distant cousins!
    Raisins: Kingdom Plantae, Division Magnoliophyta, Class Magnoliopsida, Subclass Rosidae, Order Vitales, Family Vitaceae, Genus Vitis.
    Currants: Kingdom Plantae, Division Angiosperms, Class Eudicots, Subclass Core eudicots, Order Saxifragales, Family Grossulariaceae, Genus Ribes.
      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Use A Mortar & Pestle

    A marble mortar and pestle. Photo courtesy RSVP. Product information.

      When infomercials hawk kitchen gadgets that can make guacamole in under a minute, it’s easy to forget about some of the tools that have been around for hundreds, even thousands of years. While they don’t offer whiz-bang modernity, they have benefits that their shiny, contemporary counterparts lack.

    Says chef Johnny Gnall: “One of my favorite such examples is the mortar and pestle. This tool has been around so long that it is mentioned in the Old Testament and in papyrus scrolls from ancient Egypt dating back to 1550 B.C.E.

    “You are likely to find a mortar and pestle in most professional kitchens today, as well as in the homes of many chefs. Grinding with a mortar and pestle allows you to combine ingredients in a way that no other tool does. In a food processor or blender, ingredients get moved by the spinning blade at the bottom of the machine. While the speed does help the ingredients to combine, there is still a blade chopping everything to smithereens.

     

    ”With a mortar and pestle, on the other hand, ingredients get mashed together, combining in a completely different way. The texture is different, the nuances are different, the ingredients are more clearly articulated.

    “Granted, there are limits to what you can combine (dense, hard ingredients such as raw carrots probably won’t work without a lot of sweat). But in general, you are able to get results that no other tool will yield. In fact, in many traditional South American, Indian and Asian recipes, the procedure specifically calls for a mortar and pestle to combine spices and other ingredients.”

    We find pesto made in a mortar and pestle to be more lively than that made in a food processor, and that grinding herbs and spices by hand is preferable to spinning them in a machine.

    There are different materials from which a mortar and pestle can be made, each with its own strengths and weaknesses.

     

  • Ceramic and porcelain mortar and pestle sets can grind spices and seeds down to extremely fine powder, but are often brittle and can stain easily. See an example.
  • Wood mortars and pestles can be made from a variety of strong and attractive woods, but it’s important to dry them well after use. Wood absorbs water, which can warp the utensil. Unglazed wood will also stain. See a beautiful glazed wood mortar and pestle.
  • Stone options range from granite to smooth marble to the rustic basalt of the traditional Mexican mortar and pestle called a molcajete. You may have seen one at a Mexican restaurant, where it is used to prepare guacamole at tableside. The porous, volcanic stone has a rough and abrasive surface that is ideal for grinding. Molcajetes are also said to impart a unique and specific texture to salsas and guacamoles that cannot be achieved by a blender or food processor. They can even be heated over fire or coals, allowing you to actually cook in the same tool you used to mix. See a molcajete.
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    A Mexican molcajete. Photo courtesy Vasconia. Product information.

     

  • More: You can find mortars and pestles made from bamboo, brass, steel and even glass.
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    HOW CHEF JOHNNY USES HIS MORTAR & PESTLE

  • Fried Plantains: Slice, fry, smash in mortar and pestle, refry.
  • Crushing Delicate Fruits & Vegatables: For example, tomatoes, without getting them hacked up as they would in the food processor; plus you have infinitely more control as to the degree of crush when you do it by hand.
  • Garlic: A mortar and pestle is the absolute best tool for making garlic paste: a few cloves of garlic, generous pinch of salt, some olive oil, and smash away!
  • Chocolate: Partially smash chunks of semisweet chocolate for a rustic and lovely dessert garnish.
  • Herbs: A food processor just chops, but a mortar and pestle lets you gently crush to release oils and aromas while allowing you to add ingredients as you go without having to worry about over-mashing/mixing.
  • Salt: It’s great for grinding larger salt crystals, like pink Himalayan salt.
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    NEXT STEP

    Pick up a mortar and pestle. What kind of material you go with is a personal choice as is the size: from two-inch diameter minis used to grind spices to eight-inch diameter all-purpose versions.

    Connecting with this ancient tool will show you a new way to taste and flavor familiar ingredients. Create spice mixtures and aromatic pastes by grinding them with your hands, enjoying the mouth-watering aromas that waft up to your nose. Let’s see a Magic Bullet blender do that!
      

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