THE NIBBLE BLOG: Products, Recipes & Trends In Specialty Foods


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TIP OF THE DAY: Meyer Lemons

Now in season through March, the Meyer lemon is a foodie favorite: bright citrus flavor with less pucker, owing to less acid. For decades it was available largely at California farmers’ markets, where it was “discovered” in the 1970s by Alice Waters and other pioneer chefs of “California cuisine.”

Chefs and customers alike loved the Meyer lemon for its mild, sweet, juicy flesh. With growing popularity, it entered commercial production and national availability.

In its native China, the Meyer lemon is commonly grown in garden pots as an ornamental tree (you can buy one for your home here).

It was brought to the United States in 1908 by Frank Nicholas Meyer, an employee of the United States Department of Agriculture who was exploring China for “new” fruits and vegetables.

The Meyer lemon (botanical name Citrus × meyeri) is a hybrid, believed to be a cross between a true lemon and either a mandarin or common orange, both native to China. As a result, Meyer lemons are slightly sweeter and much less acidic than the common “supermarket lemons,” Eureka and Lisbon (see all the types of lemons in our Lemon Glossary).

 
A basket of lovely Meyer lemons, waiting to become part of a recipe. Photo by Elise Bakketun | IST.
 

Meyer lemons are smaller than regular lemons and rounder, with a thin peel, which tends to golden hues rather than bright yellow. They’re more expensive than regular lemons, but also tend to provide much more juice.

*The Eureka (botanical name Citrus × limon) is the predominant lemon grown in most countries, with the exception of Italy, Spain and some other Mediterranean nations. Because the tree is thornless and a year-round bearer, it came to rival the then-predominant Lisbon variety (which looks similar, but the Eureka has a far more prominent nipple end).
HOW TO USE MEYER LEMONS

  • On fish, poultry and vegetables
  • In fruit desserts (substitute Meyers for regular lemons in lemon sorbet: superb!)
  • In salad dressing (or squeezed straight as the dressing)
  • In a less acidic lemonade (less sugar needed!)
  • As a less acidic anti-browning agent on cut avocados and apples, and in the cooking water of cauliflower, potatoes and turnips (lemon juice keeps them very white)
  •  
    You can send Meyer lemons as a gift from Melissas.com.
    MEYER LEMON RECIPES
    Meyer lemons delivr full lemon flavor without the tartness, eneabling you to cut back on excess sugar often used to temper lemon acidity. They’re terrific in desserts and other baked goods, and add their magic to savory dishes as well.

    Try these recipes from Melissas.com.

  • Meyer Lemon Curd Layer Cake
  • Meyer Lemon Custard
  • Meyer Lemon Granita
  • Meyer Lemon & Ginger Pound Cake
  • Meyer Lemon Tartlets
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    PRODUCT: Red Walnuts


    Red walnuts: new and exciting. Photo
    courtesy PizzellesBakery.com.

      We’ve previously written about red celery, red watercress and sweet red corn, new varieties bred for their alluring color.

    Now, you can add red walnuts to the list.

    The Sanguinetti family, farmers in California’s San Joaquin County, are growing a new and delicious variety of walnut: the red walnut. It has been named the Robert Livermore walnut in honor of a computer entrepreneur (1926-1997) and walnut grower who was interested in unusual varieties.

    First cross-bred in 1991 at U.C. Davis, the walnuts were selected for commercial growing by the breeding team in 1998. The new variety was patented in 2001.

    The walnuts are not genetically modified but were created using natural methods of grafting, in this case, grafting Persian red-skinned walnuts onto larger and creamier English walnuts.

    THE RED WALNUT TREE

    The red walnut tree looks like any other walnut tree and the shell looks like any other walnut except for the bright burgundy red skin (skin) on the nut meat (kernel). The one key difference: It takes 8 to 10 years to produce a marketable crop instead of 1 to 3 years for conventional walnut trees—or 4 to 5 years if planted from seed. They continue to produce nuts for some 30 years.

    Varieties of “blood walnuts” have been found growning wild in Europe since the 18th century or earlier. But these varieties tend to bear fewer nuts and blotchy nuts; hence the cross-breeding to achieve the Robert Livermore.

    The delicious and healthful walnuts* are beautiful as snacks, on salads, in and on baked good and many other dishes. A bonus for those who don’t like the sharp tannins in some walnut varieties: Red walnuts are milder, with less “bite.”

    Red walnuts are late-producing, so are available at the end of fall until the end of the year. Because they are so rare, supplies are limited.

    *See the health benefits of walnuts.

     

    Walnuts have long been cultivated, with evidence dating back to about 7000 B.C.E. The species is native to the mountain ranges of Central Asia: western China, parts of Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan and southern Kirghizia to Nepal, Bhutan, Tibet, northern India and Pakistan, Afghanistan, Turkmenistan, Iran and portions of Azerbaijan, Armenia, Georgia and eastern Turkey.

    The Romans called walnuts Juglans regia, “Jupiter’s royal acorn,” which in modern taxonomy became the genus and species of the tree.

    In ancient Persia, walnuts were reserved for royalty. Thus, the walnut was often known as the Persian walnut. English merchant marines traded walnuts in ports around the world, and the nuts became known as English walnuts. (Walnuts were not grown commercially in England.)

    Walnuts were cultivated in California by the Franciscan fathers in the late 1700s, and were known as “mission” walnuts. By the 1870s modern walnut production had become a commercial enterprise.

     

    Brie with red walnuts, candied kumquats and honey. Photo courtesy CookStyleShootEat.com.

     

    Today, California walnuts account for 99% of U.S. walnut production and 75% of the world’s walnuts. The annual harvest takes place in October.

    GET YOUR RED WALNUTS

    STORES: There are only a limited quantity of red walnuts from California. This year, they are being sold at retail in California, New York City/Metro (including Fresh Direct) and Texas.

    ONLINE: Order red walnuts online from ShaskyFarms.com.

    TREES: If walnut trees grow in your area, you can plant trees and harvest your own—in about eight years.

      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Use A Seasonal Produce Guide


    Beautiful beets, in a variety of colors, are in
    season now. Photo courtesy Capitole Grille |
    Nashville

     

    If you see asparagus, apricots, cherries and other spring-summer foods in the market, they’re not from here. Off-season fruits and vegetables are grown in countries below the equator where the seasons are reversed.

    They’re then shipped many thousands of miles to your market, giving you produce that has been sitting for weeks in shipment, and has required lots of fuel to get it to you.

    The Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC), an environmental action group, wants you to eat what’s in season. They’ve created an app to show you what’s in season in your area. You can use it on the NRDC website or download it from the iTunes Store.

    Is the app perfect? Well, it’s a good start, although it told us that tomatoes were in season in November in New York. Perhaps they meant dried tomatoes.

     

    Yet, we like the app for its ability to highlight foods we should be considering. It will expand your repertoire by encouraging you to try different recipes; you’ll discover new favorites. And you’ll save mone by purchasing what’s in season.

    There are other ways to find seasonal produce, of course: simply search in your browser for “fall produce,” “fall vegetables and fruits” or “seasonal produce” and your state.

     
    Find our favorite vegetables and recipes in our Gourmet Vegetables section. The fruits are here.

      

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    THANKSGIVING RECIPE: Pumpkin Cream Cheese

    What’s for breakfast during pumpkin season?

    Bagels with pumpkin cream cheese spread!

    We recently devoured a whole wheat bagel with pumpkin cream cheese at Dunkin Donuts, and are now hooked on this holiday spread.

    It’s easy to make, with your choice of cream cheese (regular or fat free) or fresh goat cheese. Or, substitute sour cream or yogurt for the cream cheese.

    The pumpkin purée “stretches” the cream cheese so you don’t need to use as much. The result: more vitamins,* more flavor, less fat, fewer calories.

    We personally don’t sweeten the recipe: The pumpkin pie spices are more than flavorful, and who needs added calories and carbs?

    But if you’re of the sweeter inclination, add a tablespoon or two of brown sugar, maple syrup or agave, plus 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract.

     
    Pumpkin cream cheese on a bagel (we chose whole wheat). Photo courtesy Dunkin Donuts.
     

    PUMPKIN CREAM CHEESE RECIPE

    Ingredients

  • 4 ounces cream cheese, softened
  • 1/4 cup canned pumpkin
  • 1/2 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice (substitute 1/4 teaspoon each clove or allspice and
    nutmeg)
  • 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
  •  
    Preparation

    1. BEAT softened cream cheese until creamy.

    2. ADD pumpkin purée and spices; beat to incorporate.

    3. CHILL for at least an hour. Can be made up to a week in advance.

    4. SPREAD on bagels and toast. Yum, yum!
     
    *Pumpkin is a very good source of copper, dietary fiber, manganese, potassium and vitamins A, B2 (riboflavin) and C and a good source of vitamins B1 (thiamin), B3 (niacin), B6, B9 (folate) and E plus iron, magnesium and phosphorus.

      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Homemade Holiday Food Gift


    Versatile pistachio relish can be paired with
    everything from crab cakes to dessert. Photo
    courtesy Island Creek Oyster Bar.

      Want to bring a special gift to your Thanksgiving hosts, or make something tasty to give to friends for the holidays?

    Try this Pistachio Relish from Jeremy Sewall, executive chef of Boston’s Island Creek Oyster Bar. Chef Sewall follows the New England tradition of canning and preserves with house-made relishes and chutneys. They add a touch of vibrant fall flavor to savory dishes—and sweet ones, too.

    He particularly enjoys this pistachio relish atop a crab cake:

    PISTACHIO RELISH RECIPE

    Yield: 1-2 quarts

    Ingredients

  • ½ cup white onion, finely diced
  • 2 tablespoons garlic, minced
  • 2 tablespoons canola oil
  • 1½ pounds pistachios, toasted and chopped
  • 2 oranges, zest and juice
  • 2 lemons, zest and juice
  • ¾ cup granulated sugar*
  • Pinch salt
  •  
    __________
    *We don’t like very sweet condiments on savory foods, so we reduced this to 1 teaspoon of sugar. You can eliminate it entirely.

    Preparation

    1. SWEAT garlic and onion in canola oil until translucent.

    2. COMBINE the sugar and salt with the zest and juices from oranges and lemons. Simmer until the mixture has cooked down to a loose syrup. Remove from heat.

    3. FOLD in the chopped pistachios.

    4. COOL the mixture over an ice bath. Store in the refrigerator.

    For gifting, pick up pretty jars and create a gift label with a use by date. Tell them to use the relish within 10 days, so you’ll get a thank-you call saying how delicious it is.

    If you like the idea of food gifts, pick up a book of food gift recipes and ideas.

    Other Uses For Pistachio Relish

    This versatile pistachio relish can be used:

  • To top any grilled fish, from cod to salmon
  • As a cheese condiment (we served it with fresh goat cheese and crostini)
  • As a desserts topping or cookie filling.
  •  
    How would you use pistachio relish?
     
    Find more of our favorite condiments and recipes.

      

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