THE NIBBLE BLOG: Products, Recipes & Trends In Specialty Foods


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NEWS: Winter Fancy Food Show 2009

Essential Cane, our Bronze Star winner from the
2009 Winter Fancy Show, dazzled with a dozen
flavors of cane sugar, including Green Chili,
Habañero and Sweet Onion. Who took the
Silver? See the complete article.

Amazing! In the midst of an economic downturn, the 34th Winter Fancy Food Show matched all-time records with 16,000 attendees at San Francisco’s Moscone Center, who arrived with enthusiasm to peruse the 1,250 exhibitors—including more than 100 newcomers. Having walked all 198,000 square feet of the show several times, I tried dutifully to sample each of the 180,000 specialty food and beverage products. Tough job, but someone has to do it. If you think all that walking offsets all those calories—it doesn’t.

Why was the show so busy during such gloomy economic times? The show organizers, industry trade association NASFT, and market research firm Mintel, remind us that few parts of the retail/grocery world show proof that more than 90% of their categories have been growing since 2004. Amid current economic conditions, consumers are dining more often at home, and specialty foods and beverages will benefit. It’s easier to treat yourself to good food products than a good restaurant meal.

Read Contributing Editor Andy Whitman’s observations, and see which favorite products from the show received THE NIBBLE editors’ Gold, Silver and Bronze Stars.

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TOP PICK: Great Spirits Baking Co. Chocolate Cake

As pre-teens, when one might have thought us too young to appreciate it, we were enamored of the rum cake made by an old Italian baker. The cake was fragrant and moist from the rum syrup in which it had been soaked. A favorite of our mother, it would be ordered for holidays and special occasions. Our family enjoyed it for years, until the inevitable day that the baker from the Old Country retired, and the cake was no more. Styles had changed; the town was into fancy French patisserie. Thick buttercream and piped flourishes trumped alcohol-soaked pound cake.

In the decades since, we have had other spirits-soaked cakes, most not worth a second bite. Some, like the ones from the Bahamas Rum Cake Factory, were a passable fix for what we remembered from times past. Even the ones on restaurant menus disappointed as cloying or too alcoholic. Finally, we happened upon the spot-on mini bundt cakes from The Great Spirits Baking Company, and we are happy again.

This rum cake is made with Pyrat XO Reserve
Rum. You can’t get better than that!

They are noteworthy for top ingredients (Pyrat XO Reserve Rum, Patrón XO Café Tequila Coffee Liqueur, Patrón Citrónge Extra Fine Orange Liqueur, Callebaut chocolate) and small-batch production. These factors, plus great recipes turn out memorable chocolate and orange cakes. They are irresistible and sumptuous without being rich. (We’ll leave that word for those cakes laden with buttercream.)

With Valentine’s Day close upon us, a sampler trio is an excellent choice for gentlemen who don’t fancy a box of fancy chocolate. It’s a no-fuss dessert for two (just add whipped cream, and maybe a pairing of Patrón and Pyrat).

Read the full review.

Morrell - Great Selection of Fine Spirits

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PRODUCT REVIEW: Cheese Of The Week, Persillé De Malzieu

Persillé de Malzieu, from Murray’s Cheese Shop.

This week’s cheese recommendation comes from guest blogger Dana Romero, proprietor of La Fromagerie D’Acadiana in Lafayette, Louisiana.

Murray’s Cheese shop describes our cheese of the week as such: “Spice is the variety of life, which is why we hunger for this rare, powerfully spicy blue.” Produced just beyond the legally protected limits of Roquefort in the Languedoc-Rousillon region of France, this cheese is made from the pasteurized milk of Lacaune sheep milk, like Roquefort, but it captures a far greater flavor spectrum. “Texturally,” continues Murray’s, “Malzieu sits heavy on the tongue, only to dissolve into a milky skim within seconds. The threat of excess salt, razing sharpness, and intense moldiness is present but always at bay. Beautifully balanced with rich, fatty milk, mushroom, and a long sweetness that should be complemented by a rich, oily dessert wine such as Sauternes or tawny Port.”

Persillé de Malzieu is Roquefort gone wild. It spends three months in the caves of Peyrelade, in Malzieuville, France, where the atmosphere inside the caves help to produce an unctuous paste, ethereal bouquet, salty edge and wild mushroom flavor. But this cheese’s flavor profile also offers something very sweet and creamy, not quite as salty, that registers like Gorgonzola Dolce. It has a very outdoorsy flavor. “Persillé” means “parsleyed,” and is a common term for French blue cheeses (referring to both the color of the mold and the veined appearance. It is priced at around $24.99/lb. That’s not inexpensive, but blue cheese lovers will want to give it a whirl. Have it for dessert, as Murray’s suggests, with a glass of Sauternes or Port.

Learn more about blue cheese.

Shop igourmet.com

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SUPER BOWL: Splurge On Pickles

Don’t blow your New Year’s resolutions on fattening Super Bowl food this Sunday. Buy yourself a Pickle Pack from Rick’s Picks and indulge on low-calorie, high fiber, high-taste artisan pickles. The all-cuke Pickle Power Pack is currently on sale for $29.95; although if you’re in the chips, we also love the Pickle Party Pack for $41.95 (two types of pickled green beans, smoked okra and pickled cukes).

These vibrant veggies are brined without salt or sugar—but with the best herbs, spices and vinegar. They’re a NIBBLE Top Pick Of The Week.

– Read our review of Rick’s Picks.

– Check out the different types of pickles in our Pickle Glossary.

Kool Gherks

KegWorks.com (Dot Com Holdings of Buffalo, Inc)

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NEWS: No Surprise ~ Restaurant Closings Are Up

Starbucks The national restaurant count has slipped for first time in eight years, according to a news release from The NPD Group, a market research firm. Typically, the number of U.S. restaurants grows each year, with increases of 1.8 percent in 2007 and 0.4 percent in 2006, for example. The number of total restaurant locations in 2008 contracted from 2007 by 0.1 percent, driven by closures of independent restaurants, including such prominent names as Emeril’s in Atlanta and San Domenico in New York, and units within large chains such as Starbucks and Bennigan’s. While family-dining and fine-dining segments showed drops, casual-dining and quick-service locations showed small but positive growth in 2008, NPD data shows. The industry is battling a slowdown in consumer spending, especially for dining out, as well as escalating operating costs.

Free Coffeemaker - 120x60

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