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TIP OF THE DAY: Pairing Coffee And Cheese

Swiss Cheese and Coffee
Pair a medium-strength cheese with a
medium-roast coffee. Photo © Natalia
Lisovskaya | Dreamstime.
  Often there is more than one food holiday on a particular day. Rarely do we see a trio of food holidays; and January 20th is the only day we know of with four food holidays: National Buttercrunch Day, National Cheese Lover’s Day, National Granola Bar Day and National Coffee Break Day.

In theory, you could celebrate them all at once: A bagel and cream cheese with the morning coffee break and a granola bar and some buttercrunch at the afternoon coffee break.

But we’ve decided to focus today’s tip on something more enlightening: pairing coffee and cheese.

The coffee-cheese pairing is more common than it might seem. The Swiss, Scandinavians and other Europeans enjoy cheese with their morning coffee. Americans regularly breakfast on coffee plus cream cheese on the aforementioned bagels, cheese omelets, cheese danish, grilled cheese sandwiches and Egg McMuffins (grilled cheese, ham and a fried egg on a toasted English muffin).

But let’s take a look at deliberate coffee and cheese pairings.

 

PAIRING CHEESE WITH COFFEE

As with wine and beer pairings, mild cheeses should typically be paired with a mild roast coffee, medium-strength cheeses with a medium roast and strong cheeses with a strong roast.

  • Try mild creamy cheeses like young chévre, mozzarella di bufala, piave, port salut and ricotta with mild coffee (Cinnamon or New England roast, for example). A mild cheese like Brie should be eaten with a mild coffee; but if the Brie has aged and is mushroomy and a bit ammoniated, then a medium roast pairs better. See the different types of coffee roasts.
  • Medium-strength cheeses like Cheddar, some blues and Swiss cheeses (Appenzeller and Emmentaler, for example) pair with a medium roast (American, Breakfast or City roast, for example).
  • Aged cheeses and washed-rind cheeses that are strong in flavor, such as Epoisses, Munster, Pont l’Eveque, Roquefort, Stilton and Taleggio, require dark roast (espresso, French and Italian, for example).
  • But with espresso, go back to mild, milky cheeses. It may seem a paradox, but light, lemony goat cheese and ricotta are delicious with espresso—whether for your coffee break or for dessert. Drizzle them with a bit of honey or maple syrup, and enjoy with biscotti instead of bread.
  •  

    COFFEE AND “CARAMEL” CHEESES

    Some cheeses beg to be paired with coffee. Two that are known for caramel notes:

  • Aged Gouda. While a mild young Gouda cheese pairs well with light and medium roasts, aged develops sweet, caramelized flavors that demand a dark roast—French, Italian or espresso.
  • Gjetost (YAY-toast), from Norway, is a caramelized cheese made from the whey of goat cheese; the name is Norwegian for goat cheese. The whey is slowly cooked down until the natural milk sugars caramelize and the color turns light brown. It looks and tastes like a caramel or fudge. While it’s most often served as a dessert cheese or dessert fondue, it i a delicious sweet for a coffee break. Look for it at a cheese specialty store or online.
  •  
    Barely Buzzed, one of our favorite cheeses, is a Cheddar rubbed with ground Turkish coffee. It’s equally delicious with coffee or beer. Photo courtesy Beehive Cheese..
     

    COFFEE-RUBBED CHEESE

    How about a cheese made with coffee? Utah-based Beehive Cheese Company coats some of their artisan Cheddar cheese in roasted Turkish coffee and lavender buds: an inspired combination that creates an edible rind and adds nutty flavor to the mild Cheddar. We like this unique cheese so much, it was a Top Pick Of The Week. Read our review of Barely Buzzed.
     
    As with anything, your own palate and desire to experiment will lead to favorite pairings. Let us know what you come up with.
      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Think Outside The Popcorn Box With These Alternative Popcorn Uses


    [1] Use popcorn as a soup garnish (all photos © National Popcorn Board).


    [2] Add a popcorn crust to fish or chicken Here’s the recipe.


    [3] Popcorn cereal, a popular breakfast in Colonial America. Here’s the recipe.


    [4] Add popcorn to your meatloaf. Here’s the recipe.


    [5] Top your chili with popcorn.


    [6] Thai peanut- and popcorn-crusted chicken. Here’s the recipe.


    [7] Add popcorn to a salad. Here’s the recipe.


    [8] Add popcorn and cheese to cornbread Here’s the recipe.

     

    January 19th is National Popcorn Day. We asked chef Johnny Gnall to come up some alternative ways to enjoy it.

    He fired back with: POPCORN: IT’S NOT JUST FOR MOVIE NIGHT ANYMORE.

    Enjoy his recipe ideas, below.
     
     
    In honor of National Popcorn Day, I spent some time popping a heck of a lot of popcorn and finding stuff to do with it—besides eating my weight in popcorn while watching a John Hughes marathon.

    Popcorn is pretty cheap, so feel free to stock up and then try as many of these as you want.

    Each of the ideas below can be used with plain popcorn if you want to keep it neutral. But feel free to spice things up, so to speak:

    You can flavor your popcorn with anything from Tabasco to ginger to garlic to nori powder.

  • DRY IS BETTER: Do your best to keep added ingredients dry: Wet popcorn can be relatively unpleasant. This means you should be sparing with oils, vinegars and sauces, using just enough to get your flavors to stick, and adding them just before serving the popcorn.
  • WAIT UNTIL JUST BEFORE SERVING: Also hold off on adding popcorn to something wet (like salad or ceviche—Ecuadorians top their ceviche with popped corn) until the last minute, so it doesn’t sit there soaking.
  •  
     
    SOUP: MAKE YOUR SOUPS “POP”

    From a steaming bowl of chowder to cool, clean gazpacho; from creamy puréed cauliflower soup to tart cherry soup:

    Popcorn is the garnish that adds a pleasant, fluffy bite to any spoonful. It’s also a dazzling garnish when placed delicately upon the surface of a beautiful soup.
     
     
    FRIED CHICKEN OR FISH: BATTER UP

    Pop some popcorn, then crush it by placing plain or flavored popcorn in an unsealed plastic bag; gently roll over it a few times with a rolling pin or a wine bottle.

    Put it aside and prepare your mise en place for fried chicken or fish: egg wash, flour, oil, etc.

    After you dredge the chicken, roll it in the crushed popcorn as your last step before frying.

    You can press the crushed kernels gently into the chicken/fish to help them stick. Don’t try to entirely cover the protein in popcorn, or it may burn before the chicken cooks.
     
     
    PICNIC SALADS: POPPING UP

    Popcorn is a terrific addition to comforting food salads like chicken salad, potato salad, even pasta salad.

    As mentioned above, hold off on adding popcorn to the dish until just before serving, to keep the kernels from getting too soggy.

    You can use the popcorn as a foil to the richness of a salad by seasoning it with bright, clean flavors: Lemon zest and a little cayenne works like gangbusters.

     
     THE UN-CROUTON

    Croutons add a swell crunch to salads; but for those who can’t stomach gluten, croutons are obviously a no-go unless you make them from gluten-free bread.

    To get that crunch and add another layer of flavor to any salad with less effort, pop some popcorn (corn is gluten free) and toss it with olive oil, spices, salt and pepper.

    Then, sprinkle it over a bowl of salad. You may end up swearing off croutons altogether, opting for this healthier, whole grain, air-popped alternative.
     
     
    GOAT CHEESE: LAYER YOUR LOG

    You may be surprised at what a delight can come from a store-bought log of chèvre (goat cheese), some popcorn and a little imagination.

    Pop, season and gently crush the popcorn as described above, then set aside.

    Remove the log of chèvre from its packaging and bring it to room temperature; then drizzle it with a little olive oil and roll it in the plain or flavored popcorn to coat evenly.

    You can also mix the crushed popcorn with some chopped nuts or dried fruit to add a variety of flavors and textures. We love pistachios with dried cherries, or sliced almonds and orange zest.
     
     
    MOULES FRITES: HOLD THE FRITES

    When you’re having a big, steaming bowl of mussels or clams, one of the best parts is sopping up the hearty, sumptuous broth at the bottom.

    Crusty bread is perfect, and crispy shoestring fries are a close second. But for those who seek a healthier alternative, popcorn may be just the ticket.

    Yes, we have been avoiding getting our popcorn soggy up to this point; but when the stuff doing the sogging is rich, warming, white wine and shallot and butter perfection, we don’t mind a mouthful of popcorn soaked in it.

    You may even want to keep a bowl of the popcorn at your side to re-up throughout the meal.
     
     
    THE ICING ON THE CAKE

    Most people love popcorn, and most people love desserts. So it doesn’t take a genius to figure out that popcorn on or in dessert is a home run.

    You can look to the obvious, caramel corn, and all of its scrumptious forms and variations: popcorn balls, Fiddle Faddle, Moose Munch from Harry & David….

    The tried-and-true team up of popcorn, caramel and virtually anything else is likely to end up delicious.

    But a combination I find even more enticing (thought admittedly more naughty) is the pairing of lightly salted popcorn with cake frosting.

    I go crazy for a chocolate-frosted layer cake sprinkled with gently crushed, salted popcorn/

    A single, flavored (or even chocolate dipped) kernel of popcorn at the peak of cupcake is an easy, tasty garnish; and for kids, a fluffy popcorn rain that covers the whole cupcake can be even more fun, both to assemble and to eat!
     
     
    MOVE OVER, MICROWAVE

    Enjoy these simple, creative ways to get the most out of what most people know only as a snack food; and never be afraid to think outside the kernel (pun inevitably intended).

    Get popping (no pun intended), and remember that microwave popcorn should never be an option!

    Stove-top popping takes literally five minutes and is easy as can be.

    You’ll also avoid diacetyl, a chemical used in the production of microwave popcorn that has caused “popcorn lung”—a disease that’s not at all tasty.

     
    RECIPE: HOW TO POP CORN ON THE STOVE TOP

    Ingredients

  • 3 tablespoons grapeseed, peanut or safflower oil or other high smoke point oil
  • 1/2 cup popcorn kernels
  • Salt and other optional seasonings
  • A deep, heavy-bottomed pot with lid
  •  
    Preparation

    1. PLACE the oil in the pot and bring to temperature over a medium-high heat.

    2. ADD three “test kernels.” When one or more of them pop, add the remaining popcorn kernels. Stir to coat with oil and cover with the lid.

    4. SHAKE the pot gently to prevent the kernels from burning. Continue to shake until you can no longer hear kernels moving on the bottom of the pan. Err on the side of caution; popcorn burns easily.

    6. TURN OFF the heat and continue to shake the pot. When you hear no movement, cautiously open the lid: You can get hit by flying kernels.

    7. ADD optional seasonings immediately: Warm popcorn better absorbs butter, grated cheese, chile oil, spices, etc.
     
     
    > FIND MORE OF OUR FAVORITE POPCORN SNACKS AND POPCORN RECIPES.

     
      

     
     

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Try Farro, An Ancient Grain

    A “leftovers” salad: farro with cooked
    carrots, peas and corn; diced tomatoes and
    ham; sliced olives and cooked yellow bell
    pepper. Photo © Denio Rigacci | Dreamstime.

      Farro is the original wheat, one of the first cereals domesticated in the Fertile Crescent. It nurtured the population of the Mediterranean and Middle East for thousands of years. It was cultivated by the ancient Egyptians; it became the staple ration of the Roman Legions; it was ground to create the original polenta.

    It has a nutty flavor; a firm, chewy texture; and is lighter in body than traditional grains such as rice and barley. Like arborio rice, farro releases a creamy liquid similar when cooked and can be used to make a [chewier] risotto.

    Because it was harder to grow and produced lower yields, farro, an unhybridized form of wheat, took a back seat to higher-yielding hybrids. By the beginning of the 20th century, there were a just a few hundred acres under cultivation in Italy and little was grown elsewhere, except in Ethiopia (where emmer constitutes about 7% of the wheat crop).

    Gourmet restaurants saved the farro crop—or rather, it was saved by the farmers of the French Haute Savoie who brought their product to them.

    Always seeking something new to please their clientele, chefs embraced farro in soups, stews and sides. Their foodie clients wanted more, and the health-conscious discovered the nutrition of this whole grain. Today, you can find it at the supermarket.

     

    FARRO IS NOT SPELT; IT IS EMMER WHEAT

    Farro looks rather like spelt, another early version of wheat; but they are not the same. Farro is emmer wheat, the original wheat. The botanical name for farro and emmer wheat is Triticum dicoccum; spelt is Triticum spelta; our modern wheat is Triticum aestivum.

  • Farro must be soaked, whereas spelt can be cooked directly from the package.
  • Cooked farro is firm and chewy; spelt is soft and becomes mushy when overcooked.
  • To be sure you’re getting whole grain farro, look for “whole” on the label. “Pearled” farro is not a whole grain.
     
    Whole grain farro is high in fiber plus magnesium and vitamins A, B, C and E. It has less gluten than other varieties of wheat, making it easier to digest. As with other grains, it can be ground into flour to make bread and pasta.
  •  

    Pick up a bag of farro on your next trip to the food store.

  • Breakfast: Use farro in place of your morning oatmeal. Top it with apples, maple syrup and cinnamon.
  • Leftovers: Add any type of leftovers to farro to create a new side or salad, as we did in the photo above.
  • Lunch Salad or Side: Combine cooked farro with olive oil, tomatoes, feta and olives for a Mediterranean-inspired salad. Or try this delicious farro and beet salad recipe.
  • Rice Substitute: Cook and serve as you would serve rice.
  • Soups & Stews: Use farro in soups and stews for a heartier, earthier flavor.
  • Soup Meal: Cook farro with vegetable or chicken stock and your favorite vegetables for a warming and delicious light meal.
  •  

    If you can’t find farro in your local market, check at natural foods stores. Photo courtesy Roland.

     
    What’s your favorite way to use farro? Let us know!

      

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    Hot Apple Toddy Recipe With Calvados Or Apple Brandy


    Hot apple toddy (photo and recipe © U.S. Apple Association).

     

    January 11th is National Hot Toddy Day; January 17th is National Hot Buttered Rum Day. October 20th is National Calvados Day: all occasions to celebrate with this Apple Toddy recipe.

    Toddy and hot buttered rum are pretty much the same thing. A toddy can be made with any spirit (brandy, rum, whiskey) while hot buttered rum is specifically a rum toddy (and these days, no butter is included).

    While this toddy recipe from the U.S. Apple Association does not use rum, it’s a truly delicious—and related—way to celebrate the day. The Association calls it “apple pie in a glass.”

    Ideally, you should serve it in glass mugs or Irish coffee glasses, but any mug will do.
     
     
    APPLE TODDY RECIPE

    Ingredients For 2 Servings

  • 12 ounces fresh apple cider
  • 2 cinnamon sticks
  • 2 thin slices fresh ginger root
  • Freshly grated nutmeg
  • 2 teaspoons firmly packed light brown sugar
  • 3 ounces dry sherry
  • 2 ounces apple brandy, applejack, or Calvados
  •  

    Preparation

    1. COMBINE cider, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, and brown sugar in a small saucepan over high heat. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to low and cook for 5 minutes.

    2. REMOVE from heat and divide between two Irish coffee glasses or mugs. Transfer a cinnamon stick to each.

    3. TOP each glass with half the sherry and brandy. Serve hot.

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    ________________

    *Calvados is apple brandy made specifically in the apple-growing Calvados region of lower Normandy, France. It is distilled from cider made from specially grown and selected apples. According to Wikipedia, “It is not uncommon for a Calvados producer to use over 100 specific varieties of apples, which are either sweet (such as the Rouge Duret variety), tart (such as the Rambault variety), or bitter (such as the Mettais, Saint Martin, Frequin, and Binet Rouge varieties), the latter being inedible.”

     
     

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    RECIPE:A Chicken Andouille Sausage Gumbo From Emeril Lagasse


    [1] A seafood gumbo with crayfish, oysters, shrimp and okra (photo © Mackenzie Ltd.).


    [2] Gumbo is always served over white rice. Here, shrimp and andouille sausage gumbo (photo © Good Eggs).


    [3] Okra, shown whole and sliced (photo © Melissa’s Produce | Facebook).


    [4] Emerill Lagasse’s chicken and andouille sausage gumbo (photo © NOLA Restaurant | New Orleans).


    [5] Emeril (and other cooks) use file powder instead of okra to thicken their gumbos. Okra thickens by becoming ribbon-like string as it releases a gum, while filé has a starchy type of thickening. Okra gives a better texture; filé gives a better flavor (photo © Zatarain’s).


    [6] Ground filé (photo © Marietta Spice Mill).


    [7] Andouille sausage, (photo © Wikipedia).

     

    With most people we know are discussing Super Bowl recipes, we’d like to throw an idea onto the table: gumbo.

    Even if you’ve never had gumbo, you’ve heard about it: a famous Creole* dish from Louisiana. A recipe from Emeril Lagasse is below.

    As with just about any dish, ingredients vary and can include just about anything:

  • In the meat group: poultry (chicken, duck), rabbit or other game, sausage (Andouille, Chaurice‡) tasso (smoked pork shoulder)
  • In the seafood group: crawfish, crab, oysters, shrimp
  • In the seasonings group: bay leaf, black pepper, cayenne pepper, cumin, dry mustard, fresh parsley, garlic, paprika, parsley, sage, thyme or a commercial Cajun seasoning blend
  • In the “whatever” group: chayote squash, tomatoes and anything that appeals to you. Many cooks enjoy creating their signature twist to a recipe.
  •  
    Whatever the details, the recipe will include what is called the “holy trinity” in Cajun and Creole cuisines: celery, green bell peppers, onions; plus a chicken stock base thickened with a roux (fat and flour).

    No gumbo would be complete without a base of white rice, over which the gumbo is ladled.

    And then, there’s okra (photo #3).

    > October 12th is National Gumbo Day.

    > Emeril’s gumbo recipe is below.

    > Here’s the history of gumbo.
     
     
    ABOUT OKRA

    Gumbo is an African word for okra. The vegetable came to America with the slave trade and was introduced into Southern cuisine by African cooks.

    Gumbo was originally thickened with okra pods; the French added the roux for more thickening.

    More than a few people avoid gumbo because they don’t like the texture of okra, which is used as a thickener as well as for its flavor.

    Guess what: No okra is needed.

  • You can substitute filé powder (photos #5 and #6). Pronounced fee-LAY, it’s a thickener made from ground sassafras leaves. Filé adds a special flavor without what some people call the “gumminess” (or worse, “sliminess”) of the okra.
  • Filé powder is added at the very end of cooking: Boiling turns the whole pot of gumbo gummy. Some people stir 1/4 teaspoon of filé into each individual bowl of gumbo: an especially good way to keep the gumbo at the right texture if you have leftovers that need to be reheated.
  • You can buy filé powder online.
  • Okra note: Okra doesn’t have to be gummy. Just cook it long enough, about 45 minutes, and the gumminess disappears.
  •  
    Here’s the recipe served at Emeril’s New Orleans restaurant, NOLA, which uses filé powder as a thickener instead of okra (photo #4). It’s adapted from his Louisiana Real and Rustic cookbook (William Morrow Publisher, 1996, copyright MSLO, Inc., all rights reserved).
     
     
    RECIPE: EMERIL’S CHICKEN & ANDOUILLE GUMBO

    Ingredients For 4 Servings

  • 1 cup vegetable oil
  • 1 cup flour
  • 1½ cups chopped onions
  • 1 cup chopped celery
  • 1 cup chopped bell peppers
  • 1 pound andouille sausage, cut crosswise into ½ inch slices
  • 1½ teaspoons salt
  • ¼ teaspoon cayenne
  • 3 bay leaves
  • 6 cups water
  • 1 pound boneless chicken meat, cut into 1 inch chunks
  • 1 teaspoon Emeril’s Original Essence (recipe below)
  • 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
  • ½ cup chopped green onions
  • 1 tablespoon filé powder†
  •  
    Preparation

    1. COMBINE the oil and flour in a large cast-iron or enameled cast-iron Dutch oven, over medium heat. Stirring slowly and constantly for 20 to 25 minutes, make a dark brown roux, the color of chocolate.

    2. ADD the onions, celery, and bell peppers and continue to stir for 4-5 minutes, or until wilted. Add the sausage, salt, cayenne, and bay leaves. Continue to stir for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the water.

    3. STIR until the roux mixture and water are well combined. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low. Cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 1 hour.

    4. SEASON the chicken with the Essence and add it to the pot. Simmer for 2 hours, adding additional water if necessary. Gumbo should be the consistency of a somewhat thick soup.

    5. SKIM off any fat that rises to the surface. Remove from the heat. Stir in the parsley, green onions, and filé powder. Remove the
    bay leaves and serve in deep bowls.

    You can purchase Emeril’s Original Essence seasoning online. Or, you can create your own from this recipe:
     
     
    EMERIL’S ORIGINAL ESSENCE (CAJUN SPICE) RECIPE

    Ingredients

    Combine thoroughly:

  • 2-1/2 tablespoons paprika
  • 2 tablespoons salt
  • 2 tablespoons garlic powder
  • 1 tablespoon black pepper
  • 1 tablespoon onion powder
  • 1 tablespoon cayenne pepper
  • 1 tablespoon dried oregano
  • 1 tablespoon dried thyme
  •  
     
    EMERIL’S ADVICE FOR SUPER BOWL FOOD PREP

  • Plan your playbook. Take time to plan out the menu ahead of time. Spend a few minutes writing a grocery list and a prep list. Plan out your dishes based on cooking time and see if there are any items that you can prepare ahead and just reheat. That way when it comes time to set up for the party you can enjoy the festivities, too.
  • Consider clock management. Super Bowl parties are an all-evening outing, and people stay hungry! So prepare dishes that your guests can continue snacking on, such as big pots of gumbo, chili, or soups, served with a big piece of crusty French bread.
  • Celebrate the victory. Whether you’re having a small family gathering at the house, or one of those big parking lot tailgate parties before the game – it’s all about having fun! What really makes a successful Super Bowl party is great food, fun people, and some refreshing drinks!
  •  
    ______________

    *Creole cuisine developed in Louisiana as a blend influenced by the local populations: African, French, Italian, Native American, Portuguese and Spanish, on top of the existing Southern cuisine. Creole is often confused with Cajun cuisine. Both are based on local ingredients. The key distinction is that Cajun cuisine is a rustic/peasant version of French cooking whereas Creole cuisine produces more elegant fare using classic haute cuisine techniques.

    †Filé powder, made from ground sassafras leaves, is sprinkled on top of gumbo before serving. It adds additional flavor and thickening.

    ‡Chaurice (shore-EESE) is a spicy, coarsely, fresh (uncured) Louisiana pork sausage used extensively in Creole cooking. Chaurice is seasoned with fresh garlic and green onion. It’s related to Spanish chorizo, which is used in paella, the dish that is the forefather of Creole jambalaya. The legendary Southern chef Leah Chase swore by a good quality Chaurice in her Creole Gumbo [source], instead of smoked Andouille sausage which is preferred by others.
     
     

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