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RECIPE: Red Radish Salad For Christmas

At the Fat Radish restaurant in New York City, you may find radish salad year-round. It’s delicious anytime.

During holiday season, radishes and greens deliver Christmas colors: a bright red exterior, crunchy slices and some zippy, peppery heat (the heat dissipates when radishes are cooked).

First pick your favorite greens: We like a mix of arugula, romaine and watercress; plus some red leaf lettuce, when we can find it.

Beyond the radishes, you can add more red color with cherry and grape tomatoes (you can cut cherry tomatoes in half), red bell pepper strips or dice and radicchio.

We also like to snip in a tablespoon of fresh herbs: basil, cilantro, chives and/or parsley. They’re the best way we know to brighten up a salad with “something special.”

Finally, we add a splash of yellow, via cherry and grape tomatoes, yellow bell peppers and/or a slice of starfruit.

 
It’s easy to make a salad in holiday colors. Photo courtesy The Fat Radish | NYC.
 

We dress the salad with a vinaigrette: 3 parts olive oil, 1 part red wine vinegar or lime juice and 1/8 teaspoon Dijon mustard, seasoned to taste with salt and pepper.

You can also use the radishes to make:

  • A red and green crudité platter* with a holiday-green spinach dip
  • An open-face tea sandwich or hors d’oeuvre: buttered toast triangles or crusty bread slices sprinkled with sea salt and topped with radish slices and a leaf of basil or arugula
  • A bright garnish, whole or halved, on plates and platters
  • A “tree ornament” garnish on a Bloody Mary/Virgin Mary or other savory cocktail (notch and place on the glass rim)
     
    Find more of our favorite salad recipes.

    *Other veggies for a red-and-green crudité platter: red and green bell peppers; cherry or grape tomatoes in red, orange and yellow; green beans and snow peas. We find the venerable celery stalks and cucumber slices to be too pale for Christmas green, but if you like them, add them.

      

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    GIFT OF THE DAY: Christmas Cake Pops



    How terrific are these Christmas tree cake
    pops? All photos courtesy Veronica’s.
      Last week we reviewed a book on making your own cake pops. But we could never create spectacular cake pop designs like these.

    Fortunately, we don’t need to, because we can buy them from Veronica’s.

    Anyone will be delighted to receive Veronica’s holiday collection cake pops, which include:

  • Christmas lights
  • Christmas ornaments
  • Christmas trees
  • Frosty The Snowman (photo below)
  • Globes in seasonal colors
  • Holiday mix (Santa’s hat, penguin, cupcakes—yes, a cake pop
    that’s a cupcake)
  • Holiday designs: snowflake, ornament (photo below) and “Happy Holidays”
  • “Winter white” collection
  •  

      

    Delicious cake pops in delectable designs range from $24 to $30 per dozen. What more is there to say, than order them now!  

    Invite Frosty over for the holidays.
    Photo courtesy Veronica’s.

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    BOOK REVIEW: The Cuisine Of Escoffier

    When looking for a copy of August Escoffier’s Le Guide Culinaire on Amazon.com, we found an elucidating customer review by Charlene Vickers of Winnepeg, Canada.

    The great Escoffier (1846-1935) was a was a French chef, restaurateur and culinary writer who updated and codified traditional French cooking techniques. In 1903, he published what instantly became the culinary bible. One hundred and eight years later, it is still the classic reference source for professional chefs.

    An abridged English-language version, The Escoffier Cookbook and Guide to the Fine Art of Cookery: For Connoisseurs, Chefs, Epicures, Complete With 2973 Recipes, is half the cost of the original.

    Ms. Vickers responded to another customer’s complaints about this abridged edition with such depth, that we asked her permission to reprint her comments. We hope you enjoy this glimpse into culinary history.

     
    August Escoffier. Photo from The Gourmet’s Guide to London (1914) by Nathaniel Newnham-Davis. Photo in the public domain.
     
    “The Escoffier Cookbook,” writes Ms. Vickers, “is a heavily abridged American version of Auguste Escoffier’s 1903 book, “Guide Culinaire.” It is a fascinating look at the art of professional European cookery at the beginning of the 20th century.

    “However, to appreciate this book fully, it’s important to understand exactly for whom it was written. Escoffier’s original guide was never for a second intended for the home cook. Escoffier was a pioneer with respect to the education of professional chefs, and originally wrote this book for the use of those working in grand houses, in hotels, on ocean liners, and in restaurants, who might not have had access to contemporary recipes.

    “Accordingly, the original book does not attempt to teach basic cooking or food preparation techniques. The American translation does include some details on cooking utensils and techniques unfamiliar to the average American chef (such as poeleing,* worth the cost of the book alone, and the old French form of braising), but even in the translation it is assumed that the reader is a trained, experienced chef.

    *Editor’s Note: Braising calls for liquids to be added to the meat. Poeleing uses just butter and the meat’s own juices, with no added liquids.

    “The recipes themselves are clear and simple to follow, but represent only a small subset of French cooking of the early 20th century. An earlier reviewer mentioned that there was no recipe for onion soup. This is true, but it should be understood that onion soup would never have been accepted by the class of restaurant patron for whom Escoffier cooked.

    “Much of what has arrived on this side of the Atlantic as ”French cooking”—dishes such as pot-au-feu, onion soup, and steak frites—is distinctly middle-class fare, and consequently would have been rejected by the clientele of quality restaurants of the time as being unspeakably boorish. Escoffier personally enjoyed bourgeois cooking, but as an astute, intelligent businessman, he provided the haute cuisine his clients demanded.

    “One interesting difference between modern cooking and the cooking featured in this book is that Escoffier uses few spices, and indeed declaims on the foolishness of using large amounts of spices in meat dishes. This appears bizarre from our vantage point, but Escoffier had sound economic reasons for his proscriptions.

    “Most diners of the time grew up in the days before refrigeration, when old, deteriorating meat was heavily spiced to make it palatable. Fresh, unspiced meat was a sign of the highest quality. The association between strong spices and poor quality was powerful enough to survive long into the 20th century, as any reader of a 1950s American cookbook can attest.

    “As for the recipes themselves, I doubt that many of them could be prepared by the North American home cook. Most of us cannot afford (if we can even find) foie gras, truffles, or capons, and few have espagnole sauce or fish fumet available at all times. However, many recipes can be adapted for the modern cook—using cepes or porcini mushrooms instead of truffles, for instance—and those that can be prepared really are delicious.”

    Thanks so much, Ms. Vickers. If we ever get to Winnepeg, we would love to take you to dinner—although it sounds as if we might enjoy even better fare in your kitchen.

      

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    RECIPE: Delicious Chocolate Mint Cookies


    Delicious chocolate mint cookies are our favorite holiday cookies (photo © Wisconsin Dairy).

     

    What we’re baking for the holiday cookie exchange: chocolate mint christmas butter cookies, with a recipe from the Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board.

    We know that other food writers will be pushing the envelope, trying to make the most memorable cookies to present in our annual cookie exchange.

    But we love chocolate mint cookies, and it’s our annual occasion to indulge in them.

    Far beyond Girl Scout Thin Mint Cookies, this recipe, made with real butter and peppermint extract and top-quality cocoa and chocolate, makes the real deal.

    In addition to the round shape in the photo, here’s a version made with a Christmas tree cookie cutter.
     
     
    RECIPE: CHOCOLATE MINT CHRISTMAS COOKIES

    Servings: 3 dozen cookies

     
    Ingredients

    For The Cookies

  • 1 cup (2 sticks) butter, softened
  • 1 cup confectioners’ sugar
  • 1 teaspoon peppermint extract
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
  • 1-1/2 cups flour
  •  
    For The Chocolate Coating

  • 1 pound semi-sweet chocolate, chopped
  • 1 teaspoon peppermint extract
  • Sprinkles, dragéed, finely-chopped nuts or other decor
  •  
    Preparation
     
    For The Chocolate Cookies

    1. In a large bowl, beat butter and confectioners sugar with an electric mixer until light and fluffy. Stir in peppermint extract, followed by salt and cocoa powder. Blend. Add flour and mix to incorporate.

    2. Divide dough in two pieces and place each on large sheet of plastic wrap. Flatten into 1/2-inch thick discs, wrap and refrigerate until firm enough to roll out, about 45 minutes.

    3. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Remove chilled dough, place discs between two sheets of parchment; roll out to 1/8-inch thick. Cut the desired shapes and place them on parchment-lined baking sheets. Bake 5 to 6 minutes. Remove cookies from oven; cool on pan 3 to 4 minutes. Remove to a wire rack to cool completely.

    For The Chocolate Coating

    1. Place chocolate in a large microwave-safe dish. Microwave for 30 seconds on high, stir, and continue to microwave in 10- to 20-second intervals, stirring after each until chocolate is melted and smooth. Stir in peppermint extract.

    2. To frost cookies, place one cookie on the slotted spatula, carefully dip into the chocolate, coating completely; lift the cookie out. Hold the cookie on the spatula, allowing excess chocolate to drip off. Place cookie onto wire cooling rack to let the chocolate set. Repeat with remaining cookies.

    3. Sprinkle with decorations, or dip, before the coating dries. Place coated cookies in the freezer for 1 hour to set before storing or serving. Store cookies in airtight container for up to 1 week, or in freezer for up to 3 weeks.
     
     
    > More Christmas butter cookie recipes.

    > The best way to store extra cookies.
     
     

    CHECK OUT WHAT’S HAPPENING ON OUR HOME PAGE, THENIBBLE.COM.

     
     
      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Make An Edible Christmas Centerpiece

    There’s no need to go to the florist for a holiday centerpiece.

    You can make the one in the photo, just by adding tree ornaments to a glass bowl.

    For a food theme, substitute some of the ornaments with pomegranates and lemons. Push some cloves into the lemons for more visual interest and aroma.

    You can also visit the produce department of a fine supermarket (or a produce store) to see what looks good. Look for:

  • Baby pineapples
  • Currants (Champagne grapes)
  • Cranberries, scattered or threaded into a garland
  • Lady apples
  • Clementines
  • Exotic fruits: Asian pears, baby bananas, Buddha’s hand citrus, cape gooseberries, cherimoyas, dragon fruit
  • Green and red bell peppers and chiles
  • Oranges studded with cloves (which will dry into pomander balls for decor or sachets)
  •  
    Add some fruit and deck the table with
    an edible centerpiece. Photo by Lili Boas | IST.
     

    For accents, consider:

  • Cinnamon Sticks
  • Decorative red berries
  • Evergreen branches
  • Holly
  • Pine cones
  • Twigs
  •  
    Arrange in a glass bowl or a basket, and you’ve got your centerpiece. Tie a ribbon around the bowl or basket for more festiveness.
      

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