THE NIBBLE BLOG: Products, Recipes & Trends In Specialty Foods


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HALLOWEEN: Ice Cream Cake

It’s October first, and the countdown to Halloween begins.

Candy is dandy, but we’d prefer ice cream cake. You can make a simple ice cream cake and decorate it with Halloween candies (recipe below), or order this Haunted House Cake from Baskin-Robbins.

Make a Halloween ice cream cake an annual friends-and-family tradition. You can start with this store-bought. In the years that follow, challenge friends or family members to come up with their own ideas. You can even supply individual undecorated cakes and have a decorating contest.

RECIPE: THE EASIEST ICE CREAM CAKE

Ingredients

  • 1 loaf cake: pound cake, chocolate loaf, carrot cake, etc.
  •  
    Treat, not trick. Ice cream cake photo courtesy Baskin-Robbins.
  • Complementary ice cream flavor(ideally with a Halloween twist)
  • Optional surprise filling: butterscotch, chocolate or peanut butter chips; sliced bananas or strawberries, crushed cookies or toffee, etc.
  • 2 tubs frozen topping
  • Red and yellow food color
  • Decorations: candy corn, candy pumpkins, candy spiders, etc.
  •  
    Preparation

    1. SLICE pound cake in half, creating two long pieces.

    2. TOP the bottom half with ice cream. It’s easiest if you purchase ice cream that’s in a rectangular carton. Cut away the front of the carton and then slice pieces of ice cream to fit atop the cake.

    3. ADD the optional surprise on top of the ice cream layer. Place top layer on cake and place in freezer.

    4. COLOR the frozen topping, one tub at a time, with orange food color: Mix in a few drops each of red and yellow. If the color is too dark for your liking, add more yellow color; if it’s too light, add more red. You have the second tub as a backup if you need more frosting.

    5. FROST the cake and decorate with candies. Return to freezer.

      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Try Some Cold Saké Straight Or In A Cocktail


    Saké Cider: a saké cocktail for harvest
    season. Photo courtesy Haru.
      Today is National Saké Day, or “Nihonshu no Hi,” as it’s known in Japan.

    In Japan, October 1st is the traditional beginning of the new saké season. Brewmasters across the nation begin the process of producing their saké.

    Today, forget the hot saké served at restaurants. It’s bulk saké, and often has an alcoholic burn of a lower-quality product.

    Instead, try saké flights or saké-infused cocktails made with a higher quality product. Chilled, premium saké is as appealing as white wine, and pairs easily with non-Asian cuisine.

    We’re doing flights, trying some different saké brands. We have a supply of traditional saké cups (masu), although any wine glass or shot glass will do. The traditional toast: “Kanpai!” (pronounced con-PIE).

    Consider this harvest-themed Mr. Beam’s Saké Cider, created with Jim Beam Black, Reiko Cold Saké, and fresh apple cider. It was a seasonal special last autumn and winter at Haru Saké Bar and the Haru restaurants in New York City and Boston. We liked it so much, we’re reviving it on THE NIBBLE (although you’ll have to choose something else on the menu at Haru).

     

     

    SAKÉ CIDER COCKTAIL

    Ingredients For One Drink

  • 1.5 ounces Jim Beam Black
  • 1.5 ounces cold saké
  • 3 ounces apple cider
  • 2 ounces sour mix
  •  
    Preparation

    1. COMBINE ingredients in a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake vigorously.

    2. STRAIN into a rocks glass or Martini glass.
     
     
    SAKÉ 101

  • Although some Americans think of saké as “Japanese wine,” it is brewed, just like beer. Traditionally vinified Japanese wines include rice wine and plum wine.
  • Saké, the drink, has an accented “e,” and is pronounced SAH-kay. Sake is the word for salmon, has no accented “e,” and is pronounced SAH-keh.
  • Learn all about sake and how to understand restaurant saké lists.
  • Glossary of saké terms and types of saké.
  •  
    Quality cold sake. The cup is called a masu. Photo courtesy Tedorigawa Brewing Company.
     
     
    CHECK OUT WHAT’S HAPPENING ON OUR HOME PAGE, THENIBBLE.COM.

     
     
      

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    RECIPE: Taco Salad First Course


    First course or side taco salad. Photo
    courtesy Kraft.
      When we see a taco salad on a menu, we generally order it, and get a huge salad the size of a dinner plate. But there are smaller options.

    With this “taco salad makeover,” you can enjoy a taco salad as a first course, or as a side with a sandwich or soup.

    This recipe, from Kraft, keeps the classic ingredients along with an ingenious way to make the shell fresh, from tortillas. You get to a family-restaurant favorite in just 20 minutes of prep time.

    RECIPE: TACO SALAD

    Ingredients For 4 Servings

  • 4 flour tortillas (8 inch diameter)
  • 3/4 pound extra-lean ground beef
  • 1 tablespoon chili powder
  • 1 cup rinsed canned kidney beans
  • 1/2 cup chunky salsa
  • 4 cups packed torn mixed salad greens
  • 1/2 cups shredded sharp cheddar cheese
  • 1 large tomato, chopped
  • 2 tablespoons ranch dressing or olive oil-lime juice vinaigrette
  • Preparation

    1. HEAT oven to 425°F.

    2. CRUMPLE 4 sheets of foil to make 4 (3-inch) balls; place on baking sheet. Top each with 1 tortilla; spray with cooking spray. Bake 6 to 8 minutes or until tortillas are golden brown. The tortillas will drape over balls as they bake, to form shells. Meanwhile…

    3. BROWN meat with chili powder in large nonstick skillet. Stir in beans and salsa; cook 3 to 5 minutes or until heated through, stirring occasionally.

    4. FILL tortilla shells with salad greens, meat mixture, cheese and tomatoes. Drizzle with dressing.

      

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    FOOD FUN: Chocolate Covered Licorice

    Here’s a fun idea we found on the Red Vines Facebook page: red licorice enrobed in white chocolate, drizzled with dark chocolate.

    You can make them for Halloween. Simply melt white chocolate, dip licorice and dry on wax paper. When white chocolate has dried, drizzle with milk chocolate (use a squeeze bottle).

    Licorice is a “healthier candy”: no cholesterol, no salt. Few Americans have grown up without sampling bags of Twizzlers or licorice ropes. But it started out as medicine!

    THE HISTORY OF LICORICE
    We know licorice as moderately firm, semi-firm gelled candy. But for thousands of years in ancient China, Egypt and Greece, it was a cure for stomach and respiratory ills, as well as a thirst remedy for travelers and soldiers.* The troops of Alexander the Great and the Roman legions used it. Even today, it is used as a homeopathic remedy to soothe irritated membranes and loosen congestion in the upper respiratory tract. It helps as an anti-inflammatory, with allergies and with the liver.

     

    A “twist” on conventional licorice. Photo courtesy Red Vines.

     

    Use of licorice has been documented for 3,000 years. Ancient Egyptians created a sweet drink from it. Large quantities of licorice root were found in the tomb of King Tut (1356 to 1339 B.C.E.) A popular version of the drink, called mai sus, is still enjoyed in Egypt.

    The Caesars advocated licorice as a health remedy. Some 1800 years later, Napoleon Bonaparte chewed licorice for his ongoing digestive problems. Over time, his teeth turned black from the concentration of licorice juice. (You can chew on a piece of licorice root if you want the experience —just don’t make a habit of it.)

    Licorice extract is made from the root of the licorice plant, Glycyrrhiza glabra. A member of the pea family that is native to southeastern Europe, licorice grows about four feet high with pretty bluish purple and white flowers that resemble sweet pea blossom. Although they have similar flavor notes, licorice is not related to the spices anise and star anise, the vegetable fennel or the spice tarragon. The relation is that all of these plants and spices contain anethole, an aromatic and sweet-tasting ether compound.
     
    *According to Theophrastus, writing in the third century B.C.E., the Scythians were able to live for 12 days without water because they chewed on licorice root.

     


    Black licorice wheels. Photo by Pikaluk | Wikimedia.
     

    To make licorice extract or syrup, the dried root is boiled in water; then most of the water is evaporated. In addition to health remedies and confections, licorice is used in cooking to flavor broths, herbal teas, liqueur and soft drinks. The root can be chewed as a breath freshener. Before the widespread availability of affordable sugar, licorice was used as a sweetener (glycyrrhizin, a component of licorice, is 50 times sweeter than table sugar but also carries with it the strong licorice flavor).

    LICORICE FACTS

  • Around 1500, licorice arrived in Europe with crusaders returning from the Holy Land. Monks continued the homeopathic uses, which spread across Europe during the Renaissance.
  • Southern Europeans drank licorice tea, believed to be a “blood purifier.”
  • Dominican friars introduced licorice to England. At some point, some manufacturer began to add honey to the licorice. In the late Middle Ages, licorice pastilles cast in rough molds were widely available.
  • A monastery in Pointer, England, in Yorkshire, became popular for its licorice discs, stamped with a seal (for decor and branding) and known as “Pointer cakes,” launched in 1614. In 1760, as sugar became affordable, it was added to Pointer cakes, which ratcheted up the popularity of licorice considerably. Pointer Cakes are still manufactured in Pointer, England.
  •  

    LICORICE AS A CONFECTION

    At some point, licorice, sweetened with honey or sugar, took on a new purpose: candy. While licorice extract continued to be used for medicinal purposes, its sweet chewiness made it a popular treat.

  • Extruded licorice candy (in tubes and ropes) is believed to have originated in Holland at the beginning of the 17th century.
  • When the candy industry developed during the Industrial Revolution of the mid-1800s, licorice became one of the standard confections.
  • Today licorice can be found in the shape of animals (cats, cows, pigs, reindeer, Scotties), bites, coins, drops, jujubes, laces (also called lariats, ropes and vines), pipes, sandwiches (part of an allsorts mix), tubes, twists and wheels and animals.
  • Krapelien & Holm, a Dutch manufacturer, makes bears, beagles, cars, cats, cones, farm animals, honeybees, lighthouses, thumbs, strawberries and other shapes.
  •  
    So even if you don’t dip licorice sticks in chocolate, you can still have fun with it.

    WHY IS LICORICE PRONOUNCED LICORISH?

    The Scots pronounce it “licoriss,” from the Old French “licoresse.” In England and the U.S., it is “licorish.” Here are two theories as to why:

  • The phoneme may have shifted from /s/ to /sh/, as happened with the words “pressure” and “sugar.”
  • A 1685 spelling of “licorish” in England leads to speculation is that this pronunciation originated in a regional dialect of English, which changed many final “s” sounds to “sh.”
  •   

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    TIP OF THE DAY: How To Cook Beans

    Beans are delicious, beans are healthful, beans are inexpensive protein, and we should all eat more beans.

    That’s beans made from scratch, not canned beans, which have a lot of sodium and a mushier texture. (But, let us hastily add: It’s better to eat canned beans than no beans).

    Beans can be added to green salads, served as sides with everything from breakfast eggs to dinner meats. They purée beautifully into dips (try this white bean dip recipe or this white bean bruschetta).

    But some people have trouble cooking beans. Here are tips from Steve Sando, proprietor of Rancho Gordo New World Specialty Food. Steve scours the Americas for the finest small-batch, artisan beans. Some are so beautiful, you just want to keep them as decoration in glass jars.

    SOAKING THE BEANS

    If your beans are taking forever and a day to cook, the first question to ask is whether you are soaking them or not. A good soak should last from four to eight hours or overnight.

    Soaking rehydrates the beans, which begin to lose their moisture as soon as they are harvested.

     

    Chili with beans. Photo courtesy Ninja Kitchen.

     
    Fresh-harvested beans can be cooked without soaking. Otherwise, you need to reintroduce moisture so the beans will cook faster. When rehydrated, the beans will double in size.

    Some people have a magical situation where they don’t need to soak their beans, yet they still cook in a reasonable amount of time. But if you have planned ahead and have the time, by all means soak your beans. In addition, soaked beans generally have a more pleasant texture when cooked.

    The big question is whether or not to change the soaking water prior to cooking. Old timers insist on changing the water, which gets rid of the water-soluble oligosaccharides that can cause gas.

    But you are also tossing out vitamins, minerals and pigments. As Harold McGee says in his seminal work, On Food and Cooking, “That’s a high price to pay.” If gas is really an issue (and from what we hear, and we hear it all, it isn’t), try cooking your beans for longer—or pick up some Beano.

     


    Warm Tuscan white bean salad with lemon-
    vinaigrette. Here’s the recipe. Photo courtesy
    McCormick.com.
      THE INITIAL RAPID BOIL

    More than anything, advises Steve Sando, this is the key to how long beans cook. Whether you are using the soaking water, new water, aromatic broth or some combination, you want to bring the beans and liquid to a full-on boil.

    Then, boil for 10 minutes (15 minutes for big, starchy beans or varieties known to take a long time to cook). Then turn the heat to low and allow the beans to cook at a very gentle simmer.

    After one hour, check the beans for doneness. Depending on age, size and variety, beans can take anywhere from an hour to three hours to cook through. Add more water as needed to keep an inch of water on top of the beans; stir occasionally.

    Low and slow is the way to go. If you’re short on time, you can increase the heat to a gentle boil, but you will compromise the texture of the beans.

     

    TROUBLE SHOOTING

    Salt: If you’re having persistent trouble getting your beans to cooking, refrain from adding salt or acids until the beans are soft. It may be an old wives’ tale, but it helps some people.The best time to add the salt is when the beans are al dente.

    Adding baking soda: The alkaline in baking soda can help break down tough beans, but it can also make the beans feel slimy or soapy. Steve doesn’t recommend it, but does suggest Sal Mixteca (Mixteca salt), which is naturally high in bicarbonates that will actually soften your beans. Just a bit at the beginning of cooking will speed things up if you’re having trouble. It’s like the old trick of adding baking soda, but without the off taste and texture.

    Water: The problem might be your water, if you have especially hard water. The solution: Buy a water filtration system (like Brita) and use the filtered water for soaking and cooking.

    EASY RECIPE: BEANS ON TOAST

    Readers of British mysteries will find frequent mentions of “beans on toast,” a common breakfast, lunch or dinner item.

    “I’ve heard that the British love beans on toast, only it’s usually canned beans [in tomato sauce] on plebian white toast,” says Steve Sando. “Here’s my version:”

  • Toast a piece of rustic bread and lightly butter it.
  • Generously pile on hot cooked beans. Any good bean will do, including leftovers.
  • Finally, drizzle the finest olive oil over them.
  •  
    Finish with herbs or other seasoning, from diced onions to shaved Parmesan cheese or sliced sausage. Serve with a side of pickles.
      

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