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Langres & Other Cheeses To Serve With Champagne On New Year’s Eve

Whether you’re hosting a fête or staying at home with loved ones to avoid the crush of revelers, it’s likely that corks will be popped and bubbly poured. We always like to offer a special cheese to accompany Champagne or other sparkling wines.

Double- and triple-creme cheeses are sumptuous with Champagne. Brie and Camembert are typically* double-crèmes (here’s the difference between Brie and Camembert).

Triple-crème cheeses are quite a bit richer and creamier, and a voluptuous pairing with Champagne or another sparkler. Look for:

  • Brillat-Savarin
  • Explorateur
  • St. André
  •  
    And then there’s Langres.

    Langres (pronounced LAHN-gruh) is a cheese from the former French region of Champagne-Ardenne (it merged in 2016 with the neighboring regions of Alsace and Lorraine to form the new region Grand Est in the northeast of the country, bordering Belgium).
     
     
    WHAT TO KNOW ABOUT LANGRES CHEESE 

    Langres is a cow’s milk cheese, cylindrical in shape, weighing about 180g (6.3 ounces). It is a full-bodied cheese with a pronounced aroma, although it is a less pungent cheese than Époisses de Bourgogne (its neighbor and the local competition). Langres is from the same cheese family as Époisses and Muenster.)

    The rind of the cheese is sticky and shiny, showing off its magnificent orange color, the result of many washings with brine or Marc de Bourgogne during the maturing period, and rubbing with annatto, a natural orange-red dye derived from a tropical tree.

    The “brain”-like ridges in the rind are created by Geotrichum candidum, a fungus applied to set cheese after the milk has been coagulated and the whey has been drained. But we’re getting ahead of ourselves!
     
     
    How The Cheese Is Made

    This triple crème cheese is produced with whole cow’s milk enriched with cream, which provides the triple crème creaminess.

    After coagulation with rennet enzymes, the cheese curds are poured into cylindrical molds. They are then placed in humid cellars to mature. Ripening typically takes 5 to 6 weeks. The result:

    Because the cheese is not turned, it forms a concave well on the top (photos #1, #2, #7), which is called the fontaine or cuvette in French. This depression is intentional; you can pour Champagne or Marc de Champagne in it to further flavor the cheese.

    The rind is delicious and should definitely be eaten.

    The paste is soft, creamy in color and slightly crumbly; it has a bloomy white Penicillium candidum rind.

    The flavor of the cheese is distinct without being aggressive. Some have described the finish as soaked in honey and truffles.
     
     
    How To Pair Langres Cheese

    In addition to Champagne, Langres goes well with red Burgundy and Marc de Bourgogne. For connoissers, serve a flight of all three.

    For a white wine, choose a substantial dry white wine, such as a Pouligny-Montrachet.

    Enjoy Langres alone with the wine, on a cheese board, or with a salad.

    An idea from Murray’s Cheese: Turn it into hors d’oeuvres on rye crackers with thin slices of cornichons and a small dollop of Dijon mustard.
     
     
    THE HISTORY OF LANGRES CHEESE 

    Langres has been produced in the Champagne region since at least the 13th century, when it is mentioned in a song composed by the Dominican prior of the city of Langres.

    A more formal written reference appears in 1874 in a book on cheese written by A. F. Pauriau, “La laiterie, art de traiter le beurre, de fabriquer les beurres et les principaux fromages français et étrangers” (“The dairy farm, the art of handling and making butter and manufacturing the main French and foreign cheeses”) [source: Official Journal Of The European Union, C247/11, 25.8.2011).

    At that time, the cheese was produced on local farms from cow’s milk and sold mainly in the market town of Langres, where 14 affineurs (establishments that age cheese) bought the young white cheese and matured it.

    It appears that cheeses of different sizes existed back then: small cheeses for consumption in the relatively short term, and larger cheeses that were better adapted to long-term storage and sale to further destinations.

    Little by little, wholesalers established themselves to deliver a broader commercial reach. In the 19th century, the cheeses made their way to Paris, Châlons, Bar-le-Duc, Nancy, the departments of Corrèze and Allier, and even to Geneva, spreading the reputation of the cheese.

    World War I (1914-1918) marked the beginning of a decline in artisan farm production of Langres, which continued until the end of the 1940s.

    To meet demand, farm-made Langres was gradually superseded by factory production in facilities that had arisen since the beginning of the 20th century.

    But in 1950, some artisanal cheese-makers began to make Langres again. In 1981 the consortium, Syndicat Interprofessionnel du Fromage de Langres was established.

    In 1986 it began working to obtain a registered designation of origin for Langres, to cement the domestic and international reputation of the cheese.

    The cheese was finally awarded an appellation d’origine contrôlée (A.O.C.) in 1991.

    It has held a P.D.O. (Appellation d’Origine Protégée, Protected Designation of Origin) since 2009.

    In the European Union’s protected designation of origin system, P.D.O. has replaced France’s A.O.C. designations for all products except wine.
     
     
    ABOUT TRIPLE CRÈME CHEESES 

    While all dairy cheeses are made from milk, with a triple crème heavy cream is added to the milk to create the richest, most buttery cheese.

    In order to qualify as a triple créme, the cheeses must have more than 72% butterfat content, which provides the smooth texture.

    Triple crèmes are a type of bloomy rind cheese and also are aged about two weeks.

    As with other cheeses that have short aging periods, the flavors are mild and the aromas are subtle. Examples include Brillat-Savarin, Explorateur, and St. André. This group of cheeses pairs well with Champagne and other sparkling wines.
     
     

  • The Different Types Of Cheese
  • The History Of Cheese
  • Double & Triple Crème Cheeses
  • Cheeses With Champagne
  • Goat cheese crottins
  • Pairing Cheese With Beer & Wine
  • Pairing Fruit & Cheese
  •  

    Langres Cheese PDO
    [1] Langres, rich and creamy, with a concave top meant to be filled with Champagne. During the maturing process, the Langres is not turned, resulting in the development of the well on top. (photo © The Courtyard Dairy).

    Langres Cheese PDO
    [2] What’s inside. Langres was declared a CDO (Certified Designation of Origin) in 1991 and then a PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) in 2012 (photo © Cartmel Cheeses).


    [3] The “brain”-like ridges in the rind are created by Geotrichum candidum, a fungus.applied to set cheese after the milk has been coagulated and the whey has been drained (photo © Murray’s Cheese).

    Langres Cheese PDO
    [4] Champagne and Langres: a perfect pairing (photo © Fromage From Europe | Facebook).

    Langres cheese with a bottle of Champagne
    [5] A great hostess gift: a bottle of Champagne and a round (or two!) or Langres (photo © Lighthouse Provisions).

    Langres cheese with a glass of red Burgundy
    [6] Langres is also delicious with a red Burgundy (photo © Fromagerie Germain).

    Three 8-ounce rounds of Langres cheese on a cheese board
    [7] Langres looks great on the cheeseboard, The cheese is matured with successive washings, which engender the beautiful orange color. Ithas a pungent, intense and characteristic aroma which gives way to a fairly mild taste.

     

     
     

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    Galette Des Rois, Epiphany Cake, A Delight Throughout January

    Galette Des Rois from Chef Raymond Blanc
    [1] Galette des Rois from the acclaimed French pastry chef Raymond Blanc. Here’s his recipe (photo © Raymond Blanc).

    Gateau des Rois, Epiphany Cake, with a gold paper crown
    [2] Many bakeries provide a gold paper crown so the person who gets the slice with the fève (charm) can be crowned king or queen. You can buy this cake and crown from Goldbelly (photo © Goldbelly | Blogspot). You can also buy the crowns on Amazon or make your own.

    Individual Galette Des Rois
    [4] Galette cookies from Joy The Baker: rough-puff pastry with pistachio-rose filling. Here’s her recipe (photo © Joy The Baker).


    [5] Pierre Hermé’s galettes, some garnished with glazed apple slices (photo © Pierre Hermé).

    A brioche and fruit Galette des Rois from southern France
    [6] A brioche Galette des Rois, the style in southern France, is topped with candied fruit and pearl sugar. Here’s the recipe (photo © Pardon Your French).

    A Cherry Galette, a rustic pie made without a pie pan. In this classic fruit galette, the crust is folded up by hand over the filling (which can be savory instead  width=
    [7] A cherry galette. The fruit or vegetable filling is placed in the center of a circle of dough, which is folded up to create a partial crust (photo © Uliana Kopanytsia | Unsplash).

    Buckwheat Galette (Crepe) Filled With Sauteed Mushrooms
    [8] A Galette Bretonne is a buckwheat crêpe with a savory filling. Here it’s sautéed mushrooms, but eggs with ham is another popular choice. Here’s the recipe (photo © Cooking With Elo).

    Galette Des Rois shaped like a teapot
    [9] How about a teapot-shape galette (photo © Maison Lenotre).

    Fancy Galette Des Rois shaped like an almond
    [10] Or a galette shaped like an almond, after the frangipane inside. The galette below it has a fox etched in the pastry, running across the top (photo © Yann Couvreur Pâtisserie).

     

    Our Top Pick Of The Week is the first “official” cake of the New Year. Galette des Rois, or Epiphany Cake.

    You can probably pick one up from your nearest French bakery, or order online from any number of sites, including The French Confection and Goldbelly.

    At Goldberry the Galette des Rois, from Chef Daniel Boulud, is shipped uncooked and frozen and you bake it yourself. How’s that for a “homemade” masterpiece (photo #2)?
     
     
    A NOTE ABOUT EPIPHANY, THE HOLIDAY FOR WHICH THE GALETTE IS SERVED

    Celebrated on January 6th, Epiphany marks the end of the Christmas season (it’s the twelfth day of Christmas) and the beginning of Carnival (which concludes with the beginning Lent). It’s a religious feast day commemorating the arrival of the Magi (the Three Kings, les trois Rois in French) in the Bethlehem manger, bearing gifts for Baby Jesus.

    The terminology can get confusing to those not schooled in the tradition.

  • Epiphany is also known as Three Kings Day, the Day of Kings and Feast Of The Kings (Fête des Rois in French).
  • Galette des Rois is also called Cake Of The Kings, King Cake, and Epiphany Cake.
  • In the south of France, the cake is a different recipe and called the Gâteau des Rois (gâteau is French for cake).
  • The French Galette des Rois, King Cake, is not related to the Mardi Gras King Cake in Louisiana. It may have been the inspiration for the multicolored American King Cake, but only the names are the same. The French cake is made with puff pastry; the Mardi Gras cake is a yeast cake.
  • The French cake is eaten from Epiphany until the end of January. In New Orleans, the cake is consumed during the entire pre-Lenten season, from Epiphany through Mardi Gras.
  •  
    You don’t have to be Christian to enjoy the cake; you can buy one or make one and recount the history of the cake as you eat it with friends and family.

    To recap: Yes, you can eat Galette de Rois for the entire month of January. It’s a great occasion to invite people over for coffee and cake.
     
     
    THE HISTORY OF GALETTE DES ROIS

    You may read that the tradition of Galette des Rois dates back to the Roman times when festivals were organized to honor the gods. Ahem: Neither Jesus nor the three Wise Men existed then, so the source of a feast to commemorate them is a [big] stretch.

    However, it can be said that some Christmas traditions and customs do stem from the pagan Roman festival of Saturnalia, which honored the god Saturn, whose reign was depicted as a Golden Age of abundance and peace [source 1, source 2].

    As Christianity became the dominant religion in Rome, it adopted pagan traditions to make Christianity more accessible and appealing to potential converts.
     
     
    The Origin Of The Galette Des Rois

    Some sources say that the French have been serving up Galette des Rois since the 13th or 14th-century [source 1, source 2].

    It was initially known as Gâteau des Rois.

    Note that a gâteau is a raised cake, whereas a galette is generally flat, crusty and often filled. The style, the terminology, or both may have changed over time.

    Purportedly, the dessert was created to honor the three kings who traveled thousands of miles to visit the baby Jesus in Bethlehem.

    But, says master French pâtissier Raymond Blanc, OBE (Order of the British Empire), “this story is a load of old baloney!” (Here’s M. Blanc’s recipe for Gateau des Rois [photo #1]).

    It was really created in more modern times, says Blanc, the chef patron at Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons, a hotel-restaurant in Great Milton, Oxfordshire, England.

    The inventor was an enterprising French pâtissier who saw the income opportunity. However, we couldn’t verify either story.

    Later, Spanish and French settlers brought the Galette des Rois to America, where it may have inspired the Mardi Gras King Cake [source].

    Regardless of the origin story, Galette des Rois has turned into a traditional party dessert. Children eagerly await finding the charm (fève‡‡) hidden in the filling. Whoever gets the slice with it becomes the King or Queen for the day, and everyone else must obey their commands.
     
     
    SO WHAT EXACTLY IS THE GALETTE DES ROIS? 

    The galette is a frangipane* pithivier†. The latter is a pie made from two disks of flaky puff pastry (pâte feuilleté) surrounding a filling, sweet or savory†. Galette de Rois is filled witn frangipane, almond cream.

  • Fève: Each cake comes with a hidden charm or other trinket, called a fève (it was originally a bean, representing baby Jesus)‡‡, baked into it.
  • A gold paper crown, provided by the baker, sits on top for the initial presentation. The person who gets the slice with the charm becomes “king” or “queen” for the day, and gets to wear the gold paper crown.
  • The king or queen: It’s an entailed honor: By tradition, the king or queen has to provide next year’s galette‡.
  •  
    Most people head to the nearest French bakery to buy a Galette des Rois. But you can bake one: Here’s an Epiphany Cake recipe from the two-Michelin-star French chef Héléne Darroze.
     
     
    The Different Meanings Of “Galette” 

    Rustic tart: Pastry aficionados may think of a galette as a rustic pie or tart filled with fruit or vegetables (asparagus, mushrooms, or tomatoes, e.g.—photo #7). This galette, often referred to as a fruit galette, was originally made before the existence of pie plates when the crust was folded up and pleated by hand.

    Buckwheat crêpe: In Haute-Bretagne (Upper Brittany, France), the Galette Bretonne is a buckwheat crêpe loaded with savory fillings (photo #8).

    Galette des Rois from Northern France (photos #1 and #5) is a flat, circular cake, a combination of pâte feuilleté (puff pastry) and frangipane filling.

    In fact, the term galette evolved from the Old French galete and gale in the Norman dialect, meaning a kind of flat cake.

    Southern Galette des Rois: In the south of France, in Provence, the recipe is different: It’s an orange blossom-flavored, brioche-style cake covered with candied fruit and a sprinkle of pearl sugar (photo #6). This style can also be found in Spain and other Spanish-speaking countries.

    Variations:

    Today, pâtissiers across France make their own versions of the traditional galette, from Pierre Hermé’s rice pudding and caramel galette to others covered in edible gold dust [source].

    Check out the shapes in photos #9 and #10.

    There’s also a galette with a shortbread crust instead of puff pastry, popular in Western France [source and a chocolate-pear recipe].

    Some pastry chefs switch out the frangipane for apple, caramel, chestnut, pistachio, or raspberry filling [source]. Here’s a recipe for a chocolate-pear and raspberry galette.

    Pastry chef Cédric Grolet at the Meurice in Paris topped the crust with a mix of 10 different organic grains and seeds (white, red and black quinoa, pumpkin, sesame and sunflower seeds, almond, kasha, blond and brown linen seeds).

    Some depart totally, like the Mille-Feuille des Rois from Pierre Marcolini, who presents a square shape made with cocoa puff pastry, and a filling made with grand cru chocolate and hazelnut praline.

    On a more tame note, some chefs like Dominique Costa at the Péninsula in Paris top the puff pastry with crunchy slivers of roasted and caramelized almonds and hazelnuts, with slivers mixed into the frangipane. Oh là là!

    And Pierre Hermé, who can be extremely creative, garnishes some of his traditional galettes with simple glazed apple slices (photo #5).

    Other versions of the Galette des Rois are made in Belgium, Germany, Portugal, and Switzerland.
     
     
    GALETTE, PIE, & TART: THE DIFFERENCE 

    Pies are baked in a sloped pie pan, either open face or with a top crust. Both variations have crimped edges. flaky shortcrust pastry

    Galettes are free-form (i.e., formed by hand), and baked on a baking sheet. The edges of a fruit galette are folded up over the filling, leaving a wide opening of filling at the center.

    Galette de Rois from northern France, however, takes the form of a large, flat, round, filled, pastry, not what we think of as a conventional pie.

    Tarts are baked in a special pan, usually fluted with a removable bottom so they can easily be unmolded before serving.
    The pastry is stiff pâte sucrée pastry that enables the tart to “stand up straight” without any assistance.

    Here’s more on the differences between cakes, gateaux, tortes, tortas, and tarts.

    Note that relatively recently, the terms pie and cake were used interchangeably. A prominent example is Boston Cream Pie, which is a layer cake.

    > The different types of pastry.

    > The different types of pies and pastries: a photo glossary.

    > The history of Galette Des Rois.
     
     
    ________________
     
    *What is frangipane? Frangipane is a dense pastry cream flavored with almond paste. The almond paste base is enriched with sugar, butter and eggs. (Alternatively, milk, sugar, flour, eggs and butter are mixed with ground almonds). It is related to marzipan, which also has a base of almond paste. A key difference is that frangipane is a spreadable cream, and marzipan is a semi-hard almond candy.

    A pithivier is a round, enclosed pie made from two disks of puff pastry, with a filling stuffed in between. The top has the appearance of a hump and is traditionally decorated with spiral lines drawn from the top outwards with the point of a knife, plus scalloping on the edge. It is named after the French town of Pithiviers, assumed to be the origin. The pie is traditionally finished with an egg wash shine to the top of the crust, or by caramelizing a dusting of confectioner’s sugar at the end of baking, or both. The filling of the pithivier is often frangipane (sometimes combined with fruit such as cherry or plum), but savory pies with vegetable, meat or cheese filling can also be called pithivier [source].

     
    The protocol is this: The galette is cut into as many slices as there are people present, plus one extra slice. This extra slice is called the part du Bon Dieu (God’s slice), the part de la Vierge (the Virgin Mary’s slice), or the part du pauvre (poor man’s slice, offered to the poor).

    ‡‡The fève: Here’s more about the feve, an essential part of a Galette des Rois. Centuries ago, at the beginning, an uncooked bean was baked into the galette. Wealthier families used a gold coin. In more recent times, the fève has become a charm of baby Jesus or another cultural representation, from a tiny race car to a cartoon figure.
     
     

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    Americans Drink 1.2 Billion Glasses Of Eggnog (Whew)

    Americans are set to consume 1.2 billion glasses of eggnogs this holiday season.

    Eggnog is a holiday tradition for many people: those who like rich, creamy drinks laden with spirits.

    It’s a velvety concoction that marries the richness of cream and milk with the warmth of sugar and the complexity of beaten eggs.

    To this creamy base, a whisper of nutmeg and a generous measure of vanilla extract are typically added.

    For those inclined to spirited versions, a pour of bourbon, rum, or brandy turns the drink into a toast-worthy treat.

    Some people start eggnog consumption with Thanksgiving. Others wait until Christmas or New Year’s Eve. And don’t forget New Year’s Day.

    Wealth of Geeks surveyed 3,000 merry souls to gauge how many spiked eggnogs they typically drink over the festive season.

    They determined that the average American will drink 6 eggnogs this month, which equates to an astonishing 1.2 billion due to be consumed.

    (Editor’s Note: It looks like we’re way behind in our eggnog consumption and need to catch up by the New Year’s Day.)

    (Editor’s Note #2: Eggnog is a closed compound noun, a word derived from two separate words joined together without a space between them. I.e., not egg nog.)
     
     
    WHEN TO DRINK EGGNOG

    When it comes to drinking alcoholic, the unofficial rule is that it’s acceptable to have your first at 5 p.m.—no earlier. ’It’s five o’clock somewhere.”

    There’s an exception for brunch, of course: Enjoy your Bellini or Mimosa as early as you like, as long as it accompanies food.

    Thus, can you have eggnog at breakfast or brunch?

    Why not?

    It goes especially well with pancakes and bacon.

    And if you’re concerned about drinking too much eggnog, Dry January is coming up (consume no alcohol from January 1st through January 31st).
     
     
    MORE EGGNOG

    > December 24th is National Eggnog Day.

    > The history of eggnog.

    > How eggnog got its name.

    > Eggnog recipes.

    > Eggnog-flavored desserts.

     

    2 cups of eggnog with festive holiday lights
    [1] Egg nog, so rich and silky (photo © Odelinde | Panther Media).

    Coquito Egg Nog Recipe
    [2] Take your pick: Bourbon, brandy, rum, or a mixture (photo © Koloa Rum).

    Vegan (non-dairy) eggnog made with oat milk
    [3] You can make (or buy) dairy-free eggnog (photo © Misunderstood Whiskey | Unsplash).

     

     
     

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    Gingerbread Sheet Pan Pancakes Recipe: Easy To Bake

    Gingerbread Waffles Made In A Sheet Pan
    [1] Delicious gingerbread pancakes, baked in a sheet pan (photos #1 and #2 © Bob’s Red Mill).

    Bag Of Bob's Red Mill Pancake Mix With A Stack Of Pancakes Garnished With Blueberries
    [2] Use this just-add-water pancake mix for light and fluffy “homestyle” pancakes. The Non-GMO Project Verified ingredients include buttermilk, butter, eggs, flour, for a complete mix that makes perfectly delicious pancakes every time. Buy it here.

    Whole Allspice
    [3] Test your food IQ: What are these? They’re the third item on the ingredients list, before they’re ground. They’re the seeds of the berries in photo #4. Read more about it in the *footnote (photo © Silk Road Spices).

     

    You don’t have to worry about perfectly round pancakes when you make this gingerbread sheet pan pancakes recipe.

    Sheet pan pancakes are so easy and hands-off, you’ll be thrilled not to worry about even sizes and roundness.

    To make the bite-sized gingerbread men pancakes in the photo, use a cookie cutter on the baked, slightly cooled pancakes to cut them out or create other fun shapes.

    We make them often from Thanksgiving through the New Year. You can also turn leftovers into dessert, with a scoop of ice cream and fresh fruit and/or a dessert sauce.

    > National Pancake Day is September 26th.

    > National Gingerbread Day is June 5th.

    > The history of pancakes.

    > The different types of pancakes: a photo glossary.

    > More yummy pancake recipes.
     
     
    RECIPE: GINGERBREAD SHEET PAN PANCAKES

    Prep time is 3 minutes, cook time is 20 minutes.

    Thanks to Bob’s Red Mill for the recipe
     
    Ingredients For 18 Squares

  • 1 package homestyle pancake & waffle mix (680 g)
  • ¼ cup dark brown sugar (55 g)
  • 1 teaspoon ground allspice
  • 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
  • 1 ½ teaspoon ground ginger
  • ½ teaspoon ground cloves
  • ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • 3 cups water (675 mL)
  •  
    Plus:

  • Maple syrup, mascarpone, whipped cream, or other topping
  •  
    Preparation

    1. PREHEAT the oven to 425F°. Line an 18 x 13-inch rimmed sheet pan with parchment paper or grease with baking spray.

    2. STIR the pancake mix, brown sugar, and spices together in a large bowl, until well combined. Add the water and stir just until the batter comes together.

    3. POUR the pancake batter into the sheet pan and gently tilt in all directions so the batter spreads into an even layer.

    4. BAKE for 20 minutes. Slice and serve warm.
     
    ________________
     
    *Some people believe that allspice is a ground mixture of baking spices. It’s actually the dried unripened berry of the pimento bush, Pimenta dioica, grown mostly in Jamaica and also referred to as pimenta, Jamaica pimenta, Jamaican pepper, and myrtle pepper (photo #4). Each of the small purple berries contains one or two large seeds (photo #3). Allspice gets its name from the fact that it tastes a bit like a peppery blend of cinnamon, clove, and nutmeg. It’s a common baking spice, pickling spice, and mulling spice in North America, and many parts of Europe. It’s also used in the Middle East and of course, it’s widely used in West Indian food. It’s a key ingredient in jerk seasoning.

    Spice purveyor Silk Road Spices advises that allspice loses its flavor very quickly when ground. They highly recommend buying whole berries and grinding them yourself just before using.
     

     
    The Jamaican pimento bush, the source of allspice berries
    [4] Allspice is the seed (photo #3) of the berries you see here on the Jamaican pimento bush. You can grow it as a houseplant (photo © California Tropical Fruit Tree Nursery).

     
     

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    Yummy Date Nut Bread Recipe For National Date Nut Bread Day

    Date-nut bread—also called date walnut loaf—is a traditional tea bread from Scotland. It is often made with treacle (golden syrup) as the sweetener, with brown sugar or molasses used in the U.S. Coffee or black are often added to give the bread a dark brown color.

    These dates, date nut bread is hard to find in the States, but remains on offer in the cafes, bakeries and tea rooms of Australia, Britain, New Zealand, and across the Commonwealth. It is particularly popular at Christmas.

    And with a few days before Christmas, you have just enough time to bake a loaf or two for breakfast, brunch, and snacks.

    One of the classic tea sandwiches is date nut bread filled with cream cheese. The combination also substitutes for breakfast pastry or a bagel, with a cup of coffee or tea.

    Some modern variations:

  • Serve as you would serve zucchini bread or raisin bread.
  • Use soft goat cheese instead of cream cheese. Or simply butter the bread.
  • For dessert, make the sandwiches with mascarpone; or make an ice cream sandwich** (use rum raisin for an even richer treat).
  • If you’re baking and you don’t like walnuts, substitute your nut of choice.
  • You can also add dried cranberries or cherries for some of the dates. We enjoyed our cranberry/pistachio version.
  • And then, there are chocolate chips!
  •  
    > The recipe is below.
     
     
    THE HISTORY OF DATE NUT BREAD

    Date nut bread is a traditional Scottish tea bread that became popular in the U.S. in the 1920s.

    In the early 1900s, Samuel Bath Thomas, a British immigrant, opened a bakery in New York City. He first created the English Muffin, and then expanded his repertoire.

    According to one source, one of the bakery’s most popular offerings was Thomas’ Date Nut Bread. Its rich flavor and moistness set it apart from other breads of the time, and it caught on as a choice for breakfast or a snack.

    Small sandwich triangles of thinly-sliced date nut bread filled with cream cheese, became a crowd-pleasing tea sandwich. You could have them for breakfast or lunch at Chock Full O’ Nuts lunch counters†.

    Yet, it’s surprising that this recipe, which should date back centuries, was first recorded as a recipe in 1939 according to Wikipedia, a date that has been copied all over the Web.

    But the relatively recent date turns out to be not surprising. Digging a bit, we discovered that published recipes other quick breads, like banana bread, carrot bread, and zucchini bread, also date from the mid-20th century. (Note that recipes can exist for decades before first being published.)

    In the U.S., Thomas’ Date Nut Bread and Dromedary‡ Date Nut Bread (the latter baked in cans, photo #7) were staples for lovers of the bread: dark, moist loaves with the deep flavor of molasses.

    Alas for fans, decades later, there was a shift towards healthier, whole grain breads and gluten-free options. With just so much shelf space, there was less room on the supermarket shelf for specialty breads like date nut.

    There is still demand, however.

  • Vermont Country Store sells a one-pound loaf (photo #2).
  • Pillsbury has a Date Quick Bread & Muffin Mix—BYO walnuts (or pecans, or whatever nut you like).
  • Many recipes can be found the Web over.
  •  
     
    > The history of bread.

    > The different type of bread: a photo glossary.
     
     
    RECIPE: OLD-FASHIONED DATE WALNUT BREAD

    Prep time is 10 minutes and bake time is 45 to 55 minutes.

    A tablespoon of brandy or vodka is added as a flavor enhancer, serving to disperse flavor molecules throughout the bread. There’s no taste of it in the final product.

    The recipe calls for a cup of hot coffee. You can also use a flavored coffee for a bit more complexity: Caramel or vanilla are both good choices. The bread doesn’t taste at all like coffee. (If you can’t have coffee’s acidity or caffeine, substitute boiling water*.)

    Thanks to King Arthur Baking for the recipe.
     
    Ingredients For 1 Loaf (About 16 Slices)

  • 2 cups (227g) chopped dates
  • 4 tablespoons (57g) softened unsalted butter
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • 3/4 teaspoon table salt
  • 2/3 to 3/4 cup (142g to 159g) light brown sugar or dark brown sugar, packed
  • 1 cup (227g) brewed coffee, hot
  • 1 large egg
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  • Optional: 1 tablespoon (14g) vodka or brandy, to enhance flavor
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1 3/4 cups (210g) all-purpose flour
  • 1 cup (113g) coarsely chopped walnuts
  •  
    Plus:

  • Cream cheese for serving
  •  
    Preparation

    1. PREHEAT the oven to 350°F. Lightly grease an 8-1/2″ x 4-1/2″ loaf pan.

    2. PLACE the dates, butter, baking soda, salt, and brown sugar in a mixing bowl. Pour the hot coffee into the bowl, stirring to combine. Allow the mixture to cool for 15 minutes.

    3. ADD the egg, vanilla, liquor, baking powder, and flour, beating gently until smooth. Stir in the walnuts.

    4. POUR the batter into the pan, gently tapping the pan on the counter to settle the batter.

    5. BAKE the bread for 45 to 55 minutes, tenting the loaf gently with foil after 30 minutes, to prevent over-browning.

    6. TEST the cake for doneness. A cake tester or toothpick inserted into the center should come out clean; an instant-read thermometer should read about 200°F.

    7. REMOVE the bread from the oven. After 10 minutes, gently turn the bread out of the pan onto a rack to cool. Cool completely before slicing. If not serving that day, don’t slice. Instead…

    8. WRAP the loaf airtight, and store at room temperature for several days; freeze for longer storage.

     

    A loaf of Date Nut Bread
    [1] Moist and delicious, a loaf of date nut bread. The recipe is below (photo © King Arthur Baking).

    Slices Of Date Nut Bread
    [2] You can purchase this loaf ready-made from the Vermont Country Store (photo © Vermont Country Store).

    Bowl Of Dates [3] Chop succulent dates for the batter (photo © Bard Valley Natural Delights).

    A bowl of walnut halves
    [4] Add walnuts—or pecans if you prefer (photo © Good Eggs).

    Block of cream cheese in foil wrapper
    [5] Don’t forget lots of cream cheese for slathering (photo © Bickford Flavors).

    A bottle of Tito's Vodka
    [6] A tablespoon of vodka or brandy serves a flavor enhancer, dispersing flavor molecules throughout the bread (photo © Tito’s Vodka).

    A vintage ad for Dromedary Date Nut Bread
    [7] A can of Dromedary brand date nut bread, long discontinued (photo via Dying For Chocolate | Pinterest).

     
    ________________
     
    *The bread may be slightly denser, due to the removal of coffee’s acidity, which reacts with baking soda to produce rise. Counteract this by substituting 1 tablespoon lemon juice for 1 tablespoon of the water.

    **A trick from the great chef Larry Forgione: Freeze the ice cream sandwiches hard; then butter and toast them in a panini press for five minutes until the outside of the bread gets toasted while the ice cream remains solid.

    †The lunch counters, which launched in the Great Depression, were sold off in the late 1980s and subsequently discontinued [source].

    ‡The Dromedary Food Products was launched by Hills Bros. in the early 1900s, specializing in dates, figs, coconut, and other specialty products. While the dates are still available, the date nut bread is long gone.

     
     

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