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Archive for Tip Of The Day

TIP OF THE DAY: Beyond Gazpacho Light Summer Soups

Chilled Strawberry Coconut Soup
[1] Chilled strawberry coconut soup from Carlsbad Cravings.

Chilled Carrot Soup

[2] Spicy chilled carrot soup with ginger and turmeric from Gourmande In The Kitchen.

 

Cool off with chilled soup versions of a few classics, like borscht, cold cucumber soup (with yogurt and dill) and gazpacho are the classic soups of summer, and we love them all.

We have lots of recipes for these soups, so we decided to look at other options, and found more recipes than we could use in 10 summers.

You can make a chilled soup from any vegetables or fruits; corn and zucchini are excellent summer soups. The classic French potato soup, vichyssoise, is a chilled soup.

Any chilled vegetable soup can be served warm, but not vice versa. Some soups with animal fats don’t work, because the fat globules aren’t melted into the soup.

Here are summer soups for your consideration with a note: fruit soups can be served as a soup course or for dessert, the latter with a tuille or other cookie.

CHILLED VEGETABLE SOUPS

  • Beet Gazpacho With Cucumber & Avocado
  • Chilled Cream Of Basil Soup
  • Cold Avocado Soup
  • Creamy Zucchini & Coconut Milk Soup
  • Cucumber, Pineapple & Jalapeño Soup (sweet and spicy)
  • Green Tomato Gazpacho
  • Lobster Fennel Soup
  • Pea & Mint Soup
  • Spicy Chilled Carrot Soup (photo #2)
  • Sweet Corn Gazpacho
  • Sweet Pea & Avocado Soup
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    BONUS TIP: Next time you’re putting shrimp or other seafood on the barbie, grill some extra for the next chilled soup garnish. It not only tastes great, it looks great.
     
    CHILLED FRUIT SOUPS

  • Chilled Cantaloupe-Basil Soup
  • Chilled Mango-Raspberry Soup
  • Chilled Melon & Lavender Soup
  • Five Minute Strawberry Coconut Soup, photo #1, a blender soup
  • Swedish Blueberry Soup
  • Watermelon Gazpacho
  •  
    Check out the history of soup and the different types of soup in our Soup Glossary.

     
      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Summer Toast

    Summer Fruit Toast
    [1] Your toast should dress for summer, too. Here, fruit, honey and mascarpone cheese in a recipe from Wry Toast Eats.

    Summer Avocado Toast

    [2] Switch to savory with this pretty avocado toast from Bluestone Lane. a café in Hoboken, New Jersey.

     

    We love toast. We could eat it three times a day, with different toppings.

    Today’s tip: Go seasonal with your toast, be it for breakfast, snack or other nourishment.

    We like this idea (photo #1) from Christine of Wry Toast Eats so much that we’re planning a summer iced tea party, just so we can serve it.

    Christine, who makes everyday foods look so delicious, tops a conventional slice of toast with a fruit and cheese fantasy:

  • Berries
  • Grilled peaches
  • Mascarpone cheese
  • Honey
  • Chopped pistachio nuts
  • Mint
  •  
    Here’s the recipe.

    If you prefer the savory to the sweet, try this avocado toast (photo #2) from Bluestone Lane, an Australian-style café “influenced by the renowned coffee culture hub of Melbourne, Australia.”

    Most locations are in greater New York City, but if you live in San Francisco or King Of Prussia, Pennsylvania you’re close to one, too.

    You might look at the photo and opine that avocado toast is a year-round recipe, and you’d be correct.

    The difference here is in the details: the flavor of summer cherry tomatoes over year-round hothouse tomatoes, the trio of colors that evoke summer flowers, and the microgreens garnish that does the same.

    But for the true summer touch, buy some freshly-picked summer corn and sprinkle the toast with sweet, raw kernels of corn. That’s summer!

    We eyeballed the photo and recreated the recipe with:

  • Toasted rustic bread
  • Diced avocado
  • Multicolor cherry tomatoes
  • Crumbled goat or feta cheese
  • A scoop of sour cream
  • A garnish of microgreens
  •  
     
    What would you like on your summer toast?

    Make it so!

      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: 12 Best Summer Cheeses & A Recipe With Ricotta

    If you still want your cheese plate on a hot summer day, these are the hot weather cheeses recommended by Janet Fletcher of Specialty Food Magazine, combined with some of our own.

    You can read her full article here, and create a more complex cheese course with the recipe below.

  • Crescenza. This oozy, briefly-aged cow’s milk cheese is modeled on the Italian stracchino (photo #1). Serve it with walnut bread, crusty bread or grilled bruschetta slices, with slices of grilled polenta, or for dessert with with peaches, nectarines or pears.
  • Feta. Serve it with kalamata olives, pickled beets and onions, and toasted pita wedges.
  • Fresh goat cheese. It’s sublime with artisan toasts, and a bowl of fresh cherries.
  • Fresh ricotta. Look for the drained version, which sits better on a cheese plate (photo #3), and serve it with berries and other fruits.
  • Fromage blanc. This fresh cheese was born to serve with fruit (photo #4), or on toasted bread with a drizzle of honey (more).
  • Mozzarella and burrata. Set it sliced (or a bowl of bocconcini), with sliced or cherry tomatoes, fresh basil leaves or pesto, kalamata olives and toasted crusty bread.
  • Pecorino marzolino. When a few weeks old, this young pecorino resembles a more acidic mozzarella (photo #2). Serve it with Italian crudités: fresh celery hearts, fava beans, sliced fennel and sliced raw artichokes dipped in olive oil. Turn it into an antipasto platter with salami, olives and peperoncini.
  • Queso fresco. This fresh cheese, typically crumbled onto Mexican food, goes nicely on a cheese board with avocado slices, hearts of romaine, pumpkin seeds and radishes.
  • Ricotta salata. The ricotta is salted (salata) and typically pressed into the classic ricotta mold (photo #3). Serve it with raw or marinated green bean, regular or pickled baby beets, and grilled zucchini.
  • Ripened goat cheese. Look for American favorites such as Bonne Bouche from Vermont Creamery or Coach Farm’s Green Peppercorn Cone. French classics include Sainte-Maure, Selles-sur-Cher and Valençay. Serve with raisin or walnut-raisin bread.
  • Stracchino. Serve with raw vegetables—avocado, celery and fennel slices plus radishes; as well as with the suggestions for crescenza, above.
  • Washed rind cheeses. These are heavier but recommended because they are made with milk from animals feeding on “primetime pasture,” which produces the richest cheese. Look for cheeses such as munster and livarot made from spring-summer milk, or ask your cheesemonger for recommendations.
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    RECIPE: CHEESE COURSE OF RICOTTA WITH MARINATED BERRIES & TOMATOES

    You can turn the cheeses above into a complex cheese course recipe, as well. In the example below, we adapted the idea from the inspiring Florida chef, Chef Adrianne.

    Fresh ricotta is whipped and flavored, then combined with marinated cherry tomatoes and strawberries. You can substitute fresh goat cheese or feta.

    Chef Adrianne further does a side-plating (photo #5), a practice among modern chefs who don’t think everything has to be centered on the plate.

    You may side-plate, or arrange everything into the center in a conventional plating.

    Ingredients For 4 Servings

    For The Lemon Oil

  • 1 large lemon
  • 1 cup olive oil
  •  
    For The Salad

  • 2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar (substitute white wine vinegar)
  • 3 tablespoons lemon olive oil
  • Pinch salt
  • Heirloom cherry tomatoes, mixed colors, halved*
  •  
    For The Berries

  • 1 pint strawberries or berries of choice, trimmed, rinsed and halved*
  • 1 to 2 tablespoons white or raw sugar or honey
  • 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
  • 2 teaspoons lemon or lime zest
  • Optional: crushed mint leaves
  •  
    For The Ricotta

  • 1 cup whole-milk ricotta cheese, chilled
  • 2 teaspoons lemon olive oil
  • 1/8 teaspoon salt
  •  
    For The Garnish

  • Microgreens or torn basil leaves)
  • Grated fresh lemon or lime zest or panko bread crumbs†
  •  

    Stracchino
    [1] Stracchino, a briefly-aged cow’s milk cheese (photo courtesy Beanie Bumbles).

    Pecorino Marzolino
    [2] Before it’s aged into a hard cheese, fresh pecorino is a summer delight (photo courtesy Demagi).

    Molded Ricotta
    [3] While you may know ricotta only as loose curds, like cottage cheese, it is also made in molds of this shape, which allows the liquid to drain producing a firm cheese (photo courtesy Good Eggs).

    Fromage Blanc
    [4] Fromage blanc with berries (photo courtesy Vermont Creamery).

    Whipped Ricotta With Tomatoes & Berries

    [5] Whipped ricotta and fruit as a cheese course. It is plated in a style currently favored by chefs: side-plated, following the curve of the plate.

    ________________

    *If the cherry tomatoes are jumbo, you can halve them.

    †The objective is to add a small amount of contrasting crunch, so you can also used crushed crackers or chopped nuts.
    ________________

    Preparation

    You can make the lemon-infused oil several weeks in advance, storing it in a cool, dark place.

    1. INFUSE the olive oil with the zest. You may already have flavored olive oil. If so, give it a taste test. To make your own, scrub the lemon surface thoroughly and pat dry thoroughly.

    2. USING a very sharp paring knife or peeler, remove the zest from the lemon. Note that you only want the bright yellow part of the peel, not the white pith immediately under it. Pith will turn the oil bitter.

    3. PLACE the zest and oil in a small saucepan and warm over medium heat. Do not allow it to warm enough to simmer or develop small bubbles along the side of the pan. Cook for 10 minutes. Remove the pan from heat and let the oil cool to room temperature with the zest. Strain out the zest and transfer the lemony oil to a sealed jar.

    4. MAKE the vinaigrette. Blend the vinegar, oil and pinch of salt in a container with a tight lid, and shake well to emulsify. Add the cherry tomatoes to the container and turn to coat them. Set aside, turning occasionally to coat all sides.

    5. MARINATE the strawberries. Unless they’re bursting with sweetness, marinating adds flavor that nature didn’t. Place the strawberries in a medium bowl and sprinkle the sugar over them. Toss to make sure all of the berries are covered with the sugar. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for one hour. Then add the balsamic vinegar, citrus zest and crushed mint. Cover the bowl, turn upside down to coat, and refrigerate for at least two hours.

    6. WHIP the ricotta in a food processor with the olive oil and salt. Blend until light and smooth, about 30 seconds. Scrape into a bowl and set aside.

    7. ASSEMBLE: Drain the tomatoes and strawberries and remove the mint leaves from the latter. Scoop 5 balls of the ricotta onto a plate, using a cookie scoop or spoon. Leave an equal amount of space between the ricotta, for the tomatoes and strawberries, and add them to the spaces. Sprinkle lightly with zest or crumbs, and serve with a peppermill.

      

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    TIP OF THE DAY: Julienne Or Shave Those Veggies!

    Give a new perspective to everyday foods with some creative slicing.

    In these dishes, Chef Jennifer Day of Upper Story By Charlie Palmer in New York City, juliennes the vegetables and serves them either cooked, as with roasted halibut in photo #1; or raw, as with the grilled chicken salad in photo #2.

    The vegetables, cut in julienne slices, are an attractive change from coins and other vegetable cuts.

    Julienne slices are often called matchsticks in the U.S.; although the French word for matchstick is allumette, there is no single word translation for “julienne” (which means “to cut into thin ”).

    While the classic julienne cut is 1/8 inch × 1/8 inch × 2 inches, we actually prefer a 3- or 4-inch version. There’s no name for such a cut; we call it as a “long julienne.”

    And, truth to tell, we usually cut the slices into julienne’s big brother, the batonnet, which measures approximately 1/4 inch x 1/4 inch x 2-2.5 inches. And yes, we cut a “long batonnet” ((the word means “little stick”). It’s a personal thing.

    READY TO JULIENNE?

    There are different options to create your vegetable slices.

    1. Use A Knife

    This is how chefs do it, and it’s a good opportunity to work on your knife skills. Check out the video below, an Americanized version of the French technique. Just be sure your knives are sharp (otherwise, they can slip and cut you).

    2. Use A Food Mandoline

    If you own one and never use it, here’s an opportunity to put it to work!

    3. Use A Food Processor

    The slicing disk of a food processor is designed to produce slices around a quarter-inch thick. Don’t use the shredding disk or you’ll end up with slaw!

    4. Use A Vegetable Peeler

    You won’t get the same cut as with the prior options, but you might like the result.

    Hold one end with your non-dominant hand and peel using even, heavy pressure. Once one side is finished, rest the flat surface that remains on a cutting board. This technique works for long vegetables with thin skins.

    There are also julienne peelers, with teeth (photo #5).

    This one (photo #5) got rave reviews from someone we know. We tried it, but it wasn’t an instant success for us (we needed to practice, practice, practice). Here’s how to use it.

    If your peeler blade is dull, you’ll most likely need to buy a new one since they can’t be sharpened.

    Spend a bit more, and get a Kyocera Perfect Peeler, which has a ceramic blade that will stay incredibly sharp for 20 years or so.

    5. Use A Spiralizer

    The visual effect is different from a julienne, but just as tasty!
     
     
    WHAT VEGETABLES CAN BE TURNED INTO MATCHSTICKS

    The following are easiest to cut into short or longer matchsticks.

  • Asparagus
  • Beet
  • Bell Pepper
  • Broccoli stalk
  • Celeriac (celery root)
  • Celery
  • Cucumber
  • Eggplant
  • Fennel
  • Green beans, long beans, wax beans
  • Jicama
  • Kohlrabi
  • Long chile peppers (anaheim, banana, poblano)
  • Potato/sweet potato
  • Radish
  • Rutabaga
  • Salsify
  • Snow Peas
  • Summer squash (yellow squash, zucchini)
  • Winter squash (acorn, butternut, etc.)
  • Turnip
  •  

    Roast Halibut
    [1] Roast halibut on cooked (al dente), julienned carrots and green beans.

    Chicken With Julienned Vegetables
    [2] Sliced grilled chicken on a mound of salad with julienned vegetables (photos #1 and #2 courtesy Upper Story By Charlie Palmer | NYC.

    Julienned Vegetables
    [3] If you don’t like to julienne with a knife, there are two other options (photo courtesy Williams-Sonoma).

    Kyocera Perfect Peeler
    [4] This Kyocera Perfect Peeler has a ceramic blade that will stay sharp for 20 years or more.

    The World's Greatest Julienne Peeler

    [5] The World’s Greatest 3-in-1 Rotational Tri-Blade Peeler, Julienne Slicer, Serrated Soft Skin Fruit Peeler and Straight Blade Vegetable Peeler—possibly the longest-named product we’ve ever seen, from Harold Import Company.

     
     

     
    Julienned Vegetables
    Video from iVillage |YouTube. Photo of julienned vegetables courtesy JuliennePeeler.info.

      

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    FOOD HOLIDAY: National French Fry Day

    Types Of French Fries

    [1] Can you name the fries? From the top: tots, chips, waffle fries, curly fries, frinkle fries, sweet potato fries and what most Americans think of as the classic French fry, the baton (photo courtesy Idaho Potato Commission).

    Truffle Parmesan Fries

    [2] We love truffle fries, coated in truffle oil and topped with some parmesan cheese (photo courtesy Flex Mussels | NYC).

    Spiral Cut Fries

    [3] Want to make spiral cut fries? Try this recipe from the Idaho Potato Commission.

     

    July 13th is National French Fry Day. In previous years we’ve created a glossary of the different types of French fries, and a variety of recipes from the Canadian favorite, poutine, to the two new recipes below.

    This year we have two new recipes, one of which is part of a trend to Asian fry garnishes, based on Asian twists with American French fries. These examples were reported by Flavor & The Menu, a magazine for chefs.

  • China: Chinese chain restaurants serve stir-fried fries, tossing fries into the wok with other ingredient. Examples: shoestring fries with Sichuan chicken, waffle-cut fries with roasted goose.
  • Indonesia: A&W Indonesia offers a side of “duo fries,” a combination of curly and straight fries in one package. Other restaurants similarly combine different forms of fries. Want combo fries with that?
  • Philippines: Potato Corner, a franchise chain, has been serving customized fries since it began in 1992. There are choices of seasonings, from chile barbecue and cinnamon to garlic and parmesan and sour cream and onion. Fries include original and sweet potato, plus loopy, which are circular, like calamari rings. Want to try them? There are outposts in 10 American states. Here’s the menu of fries.
  • South Korea: McDonald’s serves honey butter fries, a sweeter flavor profile. Pizza Hut launched a potato-sausage pizza topped with seasoned, straight-cut fries. Rival chain Mr. Pizza has honey butter potato pizza, with a topping of potato chips. WaBar, a Western-style pub chain, has a potato-filled menu that includes bulgogi potato pizza, made with crinkle-cut fries and bulgogi (marinated, grilled beef_.
  •  
    FRIES IN THE U.S.

    Fries have always been on the menu in the U.S., and they’re moving on up. According to recent data from Technomic’s MenuMonitor, fries have shown a 46.5% growth on menus at better restaurants since 2010.

    Americans consumers are eating even more fries today than a few years ago. Technomic’s MenuMonitor finds an increase in the number of appetizer fry items on menus, as well as in the number of side fry items at fine-dining restaurants, up by 5% since 2013.

    Rather than using grapeseed oil or canola oil, some top chefs are frying their potatoes in duck fat or goose fat, even beef fat, each of which give frie a distinctive, luxurious flavor. Another trend…

    Loaded Fries

    Taking inspiration from the loaded baked potato, loaded fries continue to expand as a menu choice.

    “Fries as a base are a no-brainer,” says chef Charlie Baggs of Chicago-based Charlie Baggs Culinary Innovations. “If you use fries like you use bread in a sandwich, you have the base, garnish, protein, sauce. If we look at fries like that—and you vary the color, temperature and textural elements—you can build exponential flavor systems.”

    Poutine, the beloved Canadian dish of fries topped with cheese curds and gravy, is currently the fastest-growing way of loading fries, according to Technomic.

    Regional or global flavor profiles also prevail, such as:

  • Berliner fries at Spitz in Los Angeles, topped with Berliner red sauce, tzatziki sauce, cabbage-carrot slaw, cucumber, tomato, feta, olives and pepperoncini—with a choice of meat as an option.
  • Paleek paneer fries at Potato Champion in Portland, Oregon, topped with curried spinach and paneer cheese, and cilantro chutney. The restaurant also services PB&J Fries, topped with satay sauce and a smoky chipotle-raspberry jam.
  •  
    The only limit is your imagination.

    Chef Brian Goodman of Sawyer’s Street Frites and The Greenhouse Tavern in Cleveland advises:

     
    “Anything that can be on pasta, you could also make into a frite dish.” His carbonara frites are inspired by the pasta favorite—with black pepper, pecorino cheese and pancetta pepato—and are a huge draw at Cleveland Browns’ FirstEnergy Stadium.

    Fast-food versions of loaded fries have also been noted, often as limited-time offers, such as Wendy’s BBQ Pulled Pork Fries and Baconator Fries, topped with cheddar cheese sauce, bacon and shredded cheddar.

    Add Some Heat

    As Americans consume more and more hot sauce, spicy fries—like Five Guys’ Cajun fries—have become a popular option at chain restaurants.

    You can shake cayenne or hot sauce on your fries, or use sriracha ketchup, but here’s what the professionals are doing:

  • Kimchi fries can be found across the country, and recipes abound online.
  • King Noodle in Brooklyn, New York serves Mapo Tofu Chile Cheese Fries. combining the numbing heat of Sichuan peppercorns with chile and American cheese.
  • Log Cabin Inn in Harmony, Pennsylvania serves Fire Fries, with a hot-hot crunchy cayenne crust and a mouth-cooling ranch sauce alongside.
  • Furikake fries, Japanese style fries with sriracha mayonnaise, bonito and other Japanese ingredients, emulate Japanese street food.
  •  
    Now, how about some recipes?

     

    RECIPE #1: DAIGAKU IMO JAPANESE FRIES

    Daigaku imo is a Japanese dish of caramelized potatoes, traditionally made with sweet potatoes and black sesame seeds. The name translates as “university potatoes”: The dish was a popular snack at universities in Tokyo in the early 1900s.

    This recipe, which came to us from the Idaho Potato Commission, is from Chef Eric Yung of Elite Catering in Dayton, Ohio. He uses white russet potatoes and “tones the sweetness of the dish down to a kettle corn level.”

    Ingredients

  • 1 medium russet potato
  • 2 tablespoons white sugar
  • 1 tablespoon corn syrup or honey
  • ½ teaspoon soy sauce
  • 5 tablespoons gomashio (black sesame seed, salt and sugar)
  • 1 tablespoon salt
  •  
    Preparation

    1. COMBINE the sugar, syrup and soy sauce in a small pot until the mixture is reduced and nappe consistency. Nappe, a French term meaning “layer,” is a consistency that allows a sauce to coat the food evenly. It should be neither too thick nor too thin.

    2. SCRUB the potato well and cut into wedges, leaving the skin on for color (you can peel it if you want). Place the cut pieces in cold water. When ready to fry, drain the pieces and pat dry. Place in the fryer until cooked through and lightly browned.

    3. REMOVE the potato from the fryer, drain and combine with the syrup mixture. Toss to coat (you can stir the potato into the syrup); the potato will shine if coated properly. Sprinkle with some gomashio. Separate the potato pieces so they don’t get stuck to each other, and serve.
     
     
    RECIPE #2: CARNE ASADA FRIES

    This recipe, from food blogger Jonathan Melendez of The Candid Appetite, was also sent to us by the Idaho Potato Commission.

    In his take, Jonathan tops French fries with all the ingredients for Carne Asada (not unlike the Chinese-Peruvian dish, lomo saltado, photo #6). To save time, use store bought salsa and guacamole.

    Ingredients

  • 1 pound Idaho potatoes, peeled and cut into thin fries
  • Vegetable oil for frying
  • 2 pounds flap steak or skirt steak
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1-1/2 teaspoons black pepper
  • 1-1/2 teaspoons granulated garlic
  • 1-1/2 teaspoons granulated onion
  • 1-1/2 teaspoons paprika
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
  • 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
  • 1-1/2 cups sharp cheddar cheese, shredded
  • 1-1/2 cups Monterey jack cheese, shredded
  • 2 tomatoes, diced
  • 1 cup guacamole
  • 3/4 cup sour cream
  • Optional: 1/4 cup sliced pickled jalapeños
  • Optional: 1/4 cup crumbled queso fresco (substitute mild feta*)
  •  

    Daigaku Imo Fries
    [4] Daiguko imo, recipe #1: a long-standing Japanese recipe that caramelizes the potatoes (photo courtesy Idaho Potato Commission).

    Carne Asada Fries
    [5] Carne asada fries, fully loaded: recipe #2 (photo courtesy Idaho Potato Commission).

    Carne Asado With Fries

    [6] Lomo saltado, a Chinese-Peruvian beef stir-fry, topped with French fries. Here’s the recipe from Skinny Taste.

     
    Preparation

    1. HEAT a Dutch oven or other large pot over medium-high heat. Fill it a bit less than halfway with vegetable oil. Attach a deep fryer thermometer and heat the oil to 350°F.

    2. PEEL the potatoes and slice them into thin fries. Immediately place the fries into a bowl of cold water to prevent them from turning brown, and to rinse away the excess starch. Drain the potatoes and dry them thoroughly with a clean kitchen towel. Make sure they’re completely dry; you don’t want any moisture in the oil.

    3. FRY the potatoes in batches until light golden brown, about 3 to 5 minutes. Stir with a slotted spoon and transfer to a wire rack set over a baking sheet. Continue frying the rest of the fries. Heat the oil to 375°F and fry the potatoes a second time (also in batches) until deep golden brown and crispy, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the fries back to the wire rack and sprinkle with salt to taste.

    4. HEAT an outdoor grill or a stovetop grill pan over medium-high heat until hot. In a large bowl, combine the flap steak with the salt, pepper, granulated garlic, onion, paprika, oregano and Worcestershire sauce. Mix until evenly seasoned. Cook the meat until charred on both sides, about 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and allow to rest for a few minutes before chopping.

    5. ASSEMBLE: Arrange the fried potatoes on an oven-safe platter, baking sheet or individual ramekins. Sprinkle with shredded cheese and place in a 350°F oven for about 5 minutes to melt the cheese. Top with chopped carne asada, sour cream, guacamole, tomatoes, pickled jalapeños, cilantro and queso fresco. Serve Immediately.
    ________________

    *If the feta is to salty, soak the block in fresh water for 15 minutes. Rinse, taste, and soak again as necessary.

      

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