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THE NIBBLE’s Gourmet News & Views
Trends, Products & Items Of Note In The World Of Specialty Foods
This is the blog section of THE NIBBLE. Read all of our content on TheNibble.com,
the online magazine about gourmet and specialty food.
Archive for Viewpoint
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September 14, 2009 at 7:56 am
· Filed under Gourmet News, Viewpoint
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Top Chef Master Rick Bayless. |
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We spent the weekend enjoying a Top Chef Masters marathon on the DVR. We were thrilled with every contestant; anyone who loves great food—and especially those of us who try to cook it—can’t help but give thanks daily for all of the people who expend so much passion, backbreaking labor and stress to please us with their fine cuisine (or great burritos, or whatever). We have experienced the cuisine of all three finalists: the Mexican cooking of Rick Bayless at Frontera Grill and Topolobampo in Chicago; the Italian-influenced California cuisine of Michael Chiarello at Tra Vigne in Napa Valley (the restaurant is still thriving in St. Helena although there have been many chef changes since; Michael recently opened Bottega restaurant in nearby Yountville); and the elegant food of classic French-trained Hubert Keller of San Francisco landmark restaurant Fleur de Lys.
Last week, we caught up by phone with the winner of Top Chef Masters, Rick Bayless, and chatted about his win on Top Chef Masters, against a formidable field of America’s most lauded chefs. We had the chance to ask what really happens behind the scenes on the show.
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TN: Because of your celebrity, were the master chefs treated better than the regular Top Chef contestants?
RB: The only difference was that we had private rooms in a nice hotel [as opposed to sharing rooms in a group house]. Otherwise, we ran ragged day and night. I lost 10 pounds. I didn’t have time to phone my wife or restaurants once in the four-day finale. Not a minute to make a call—that’s unheard of for me!
TN: Did you really have absolutely no help to get all that work done—especially in the finale when you were plating food for nine judges (Top Chef judges Tom Colicchio, Padma Lakshmi and Gail Simmons as well as the five winners of the original Top Chef program)?
RB: No help at all. We did everything ourselves, including peeling and chopping garlic and washing pots. If you needed a certain pan and there was only one of them, after another chef used it, you had to wash it yourself.
TN: Given the skill level of the master chef contestants, what do you consider the keys to success in the competition?
RB: The ability to handle the stress and to get it all done with no help. Chefs at the masters level have been working with a team of assistants for a long time. We were on our own. I was shredding 180-degree tongue with my bare fingers against a clock, burning my hands. There’s also the luck of the draw; with the street food challenge, for example, as well as with the ingredients you’re given. I’m very comfortable with making street food, I was very comfortable with my ingredients; I won the challenge. Finally, there’s the luck of making the right decision in the first place. If what you’ve chosen to do isn’t working, there’s no time to go back and change things.
TN: You’ve won $100,000 for the Frontera Farmer Foundation, which gives grants to family farmers for equipment that helps them in important ways. It will be a huge help for the Foundation. If you could do Top Chef Masters again and potentially win another $100,000, would you be game?
RB: I’d have to think long and hard about it!
You can learn more about the Frontera Farmer Foundation and make a contribution to this worthy cause. If it weren’t for family farmers, there wouldn’t be such exceptional produce and meat—not to mention cream, cheese, herbs and so many more types of food—that go into making meals so special at the fine restaurants we love so much.
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July 25, 2009 at 7:01 am
· Filed under Condiments, Oil/Vinegar/Dressing, Viewpoint
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Photo by Jasper Golangco | SXC. |
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For years, mayonnaise-based foods like potato salad and macaroni salad have taken the rap for food poisoning at summer picnics. As the story went, unrefrigerated mayo-based dishes spoiled more easily in the heat than others…or the combination of mayo with other proteins plus heat caused Salmonella. Mayonnaise should never be used in picnic foods, mother cautioned; mayo-based foods left on the kitchen counter should be tossed.
But these common misconceptions simply are not true. According to The Association for Dressings & Sauces, an international association of salad dressing, mayonnaise, mustard and other condiment manufacturers and their suppliers, commercial mayonnaise is one of the safest products you can eat.
Carefully prepared under strict quality controls, mayonnaise is made with pasteurized eggs that are free of Salmonella and other dangerous bacteria. Additional ingredients such as vinegar and lemon juice create a high-acid environment that slows, and even stops, bacterial growth. The salt in the recipe also contributes to an unfavorable environment for bacteria. In fact, hazardous bacteria die off if placed in a commercially prepared mayo!
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Once, there was truth in the story. Many years ago, when mayonnaise was prepared from scratch, home cooks used unpasteurized eggs, which we now know can sometimes be contaminated by Salmonella bacteria. Also, homemade mayonnaise, unlike commercial products, may not contain
enough salt and vinegar to counteract the growth of harmful bacteria.
While mayonnaise does contribute 100 calories a tablespoon and cholesterol from egg yolks (that’s the bad news), it is made with healthy oils such as soybean and canola. Both are natural sources of alpha-linolenic acid, an essential omega-3 fatty acid—no trans fat. Both are also a major source of vitamin E. Read the label of your favorite mayonnaise to see what healthy oils it contains (some have olive oil, for example).
Check out Lemonaise, one of our favorites and a Top Pick Of The Week, also available in Lemonaise Light.
See the mayonnaises available from San Francisco’s Restaurant Lulu, including the kickin’ garlic aïoli—all Top Picks Of The Week.
Make Julia Child’s mayonnaise recipe from scratch, plus green mayonnaise with spinach and herbs.
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March 12, 2009 at 4:43 pm
· Filed under Beverages, Viewpoint
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| A few weeks ago, we were at the Winter Fancy Food Show in San Francisco, tasting away. While almost everything is good, if not electrifying (a.k.a. not “Nibblelicious”), at one booth, an attractive-looking white and dark chocolate pastry with coconut was so vile, we had to spit it out. (As one NIBBLE staffer said, “I not only spit it out, I also had to scrape my tongue.”) Generally at the Fancy Food Show, it never gets this bad; even in the supermarket, it doesn’t.
But as we were picking up a few supermarket items this week, we found a contender. They were out of the organic brand we usually buy, and as our eyes scanned the shelves, they alit upon Clamato juice, a brand owned by Cadbury-Schweppes that we haven’t had in more than 20 years. Hmm, we thought, healthy tomato juice and healthy clam juice combined. We’re in!
Ladies and gentlemen: Read the labels before buying, even on what you think is a simple bottle of juice! |
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Too much sugar in our savory foods! |
| Because when we got home and poured ourselves what we thought would be a healthy, tasty glass of it, we couldn’t believe our taste buds. Think tomato juice with tablespoons of sugar mixed in (only it was high fructose corn syrup). When we went back to the store, shell-shocked (note pun), we compared the ingredients in the Tomato Clam Juice Cocktail from White Rose. Same sad story. Same vile taste.
Why, oh why, does Big Manufacturing have to throw sweetener into every savory product from bagels to soup to tomato juice? Not only does it taste horrific, it adds sugar calories where they aren’t needed or wanted, contributes to the obesity epidemic, and warps the palate of the majority of Americans who don’t know better and think that this is what food is supposed to taste like.
We’re so spooked by this, we’re going to start reading labels on milk and egg cartons.
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January 16, 2009 at 9:30 am
· Filed under Beverages, Viewpoint
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| Bottled water is a hotly-contested topic these days. After several years of impressive growth, sales have recently declined. Much of the the decline is attributed to environmental issues, specifically, the amount of plastic bottles going into landfill. Bottled water expert Michael Mascha explains the difference between commodity bottled water and naturally bottled water, and why you should consider buying one and not the other.
Much of the bottled water sold in the United States is really bottled municipal tap water. Government and industry estimates are that filtered municipal water comprises up to 40% of the bottled water sold. It makes no sense to buy this processed tap water. If you are not happy with the way your own tap water tastes, you would be much better off buying a water filter. You’d save money, gas, your own energy hauling, storage…not to mention the environmental benefit of reducing the amount of PET plastic bottles produced and disposed of by more than 40%. |
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Most consumers confuse two distinctly different types of bottled water: commodity bottled water and naturally bottled water. Read about the difference between each one, and make an informed decision, in the full article on TheNibble.com.
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September 12, 2008 at 1:36 pm
· Filed under NutriNibbles/Organic, Viewpoint
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Start your day with a bowl of organic
breakfast cereal. Organic food
production does not create greenhouse
gases. If every American converted 10%
of our foods to organic, it would be the
equivalent of taking 2 million car off the
road each year. |
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Measure your carbon footprint with the Ecological Footprint Calculator. It’s eye-opening—and fun. Earth Day Network has created the tool to combat climate change. You create your three-dimensional avatar and tour your virtual neighborhood as you answer a series of questions about your eating habits, energy use, mode of transportation, type of residence, recycling commitment and consumer consumption. The Foodprint Calculator then tells you how many “planets” would be necessary to sustain human life if everyone lived just like you, and how many acres of land and tons of carbon necessary to sustain your lifestyle. If you want, you can find out how to reduce your carbon footprint. We were shocked at our results: We don’t eat meat, don’t own a car and take public transportation a short distance to work, although we do take a few airplane trips a year. Our result: It takes 4.3 planet Earths to sustain just one of us!
You have to supply an email address to start the quiz, but it’s well worth it. Take the next step at http://www.earthday.net/footprint/index.html. (Note: The Footprint Calculator currently has measures for the United States and Australia only, but expects to have more countries by the end of the year.) |
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