“Jiro Dreams Of Sushi” is a documentary by American filmmaker David Gelb, about 85 year-old sushi chef Jiro Ono—considered by many to be the world’s greatest sushi chef. The film opens today in New York City at the Lincoln Plaza and IFC Center, and on Friday, March 16th in Los Angeles at the Nuart Theatre. A national rollout will follow.

Considered by many to be the world’s greatest sushi chef, Jiro Ono is the proprietor of Sukiyabashi Jiro, a small, nondescript, sushi-only restaurant located down a flight of stairs on the concourse of a Tokyo subway station.

The restaurant serves only sushi and a few beverages—no appetizers, no miso soup, no desserts. The decor is classic sushi bar plainness: white walls, wood booths, tables and sushi bar. Customers must use a shared public bathroom outside the restaurant.

The great sushi chef Jiro Ono and his son Yoshikazu at their sushi bar. Photo courtesy Magnolia Films.

Yet despite the humble surroundings—a total lack of ambiance—Sukiyabashi Jiro is the first sushi bar to be awarded the top honor, three stars, by the demanding reviewers of the Guide Michelin. The reviewers famously give two stars for memorably great food and the third star for great ambiance.

The Real Message

We love sushi; it’s our favorite food. Yet for us, the inspiration of the film is not how to make beautiful sushi. It’s about the work ethic of a master craftsman who never stops seeking perfection.

At an age where most people are long retired, Jiro—who was hospitalized after a heart attack at at age 70 but never slowed down—gets up early in the morning and works a long day. He samples every piece of fish, trains his small staff of five (including his son) and stands behind the sushi bar to carefully mold and present his sushi. He’s there when the restaurant closes, after dinner service.

Jiro’s eldest son Yoshikazu, the traditional heir to his father’s business, is a bit like Prince Charles: past 50, diligently doing his job, respecting his venerated parent and no doubt wondering when he will get to run the show. His younger brother Takashi already has a larger, glamorous sushi bar in a fashionable neighborhood.

Follow the film to a theater near you on the official website.

Love sushi? Learn all about it in our beautiful Sushi Glossary.

Oysters and bubbly are not just for New Year’s Eve. Oysters on the half shell are a favorite in Ireland. While they’re popular bar food with a beer, you can create a real celebration with sparkling wine.

Whether with Champagne or the lighter and more affordable Cava and Prosecco sparklers, invite friends over to toast to St. Patrick’s Day.

Alexandra Shapiro, owner of the Flex Mussels restaurants in New York City, offers these tips:

Champagne and oysters. Photo courtesy
Champagne Bureau.

The best oysters we know are from Willapa Oysters, which are harvested to order and overnighted to you.

With an abundance of protein and minimal calories, the bubbly-bivalve combination is much healthier cocktail party option than, say, sugar-laden Margaritas and fat-laden nachos.

Forget the old wives’ tale that oysters are best when there’s an “r” in the month. This advice came from the days before refrigeration—much less overnight shipping—when oysters spoiled more quickly in the warmer months.

Everything you need to know about oysters.

Top off your knowledge of sparkling wines.

Wildly popular with sport fishermen, walleye is widely regarded as the best-tasting freshwater fish.

The largest member of the perch family, walleye is native to lakes throughout Canada and the north-central United States. Lake Erie, Lake Winnipeg, Lake of the Woods and other large Canadian lakes yield a plentiful supply of the fish for restaurants and retailers.

Named for its highly reflective, cat-like eyes, the walleye can reach a length of 30 inches and weight of 15 pounds, although typical market size is 1 to 5 pounds.

The peak season is fall through winter. The species has proven difficult to farm, so enjoy fresh walleye while it’s still in season.

Fresh-caught walleye. Photo courtesy
Walleye.net.

Fine-flaked walleye fillets are prized for their thickness and succulent, sweet, mild flavor. The fish has few bones, which adds to its popularity. The raw flesh is a rich pink color but turns a clear white when cooked.

Bypass the common wisdom to look for clear, bright eyes when purchasing fresh fish. Even in the freshest walleye, the eyes are naturally flat and opaque. The freshness of walleye must be judged by the flesh and skin.

Broiled walleye with zucchini, yellow squash
and roasted potatoes. Photo courtesy
AllWhitesEggWhites.com.

How To Prepare Walleye

A very versatile fish, walleye can be baked, broiled, fried, deep-fried, grilled, poached, stuffed, sautéed and made into chowder. Simple preparations are the best way to showcase the delicate flavor.

 
Here’s a delicious recipe for broiled walleye with a crust of almonds, from AllWhitesEggWhites.com. Parmesan cheese and fresh basil create the perfect crust.

BAKED WALLEYE WITH AN ALMOND CRUST

Ingredients

 
Preparation

1. Preheat broiler. Place walleye in single layer on lightly greased broiler pan.

2. Combine all remaining ingredients and spread evenly over walleye fillets.

3. Place fillets on a greased broiled pan and broil five inches from the broiler heat for about 8 minutes or until topping is browned and fish flakes easily when tested with a fork. As with any fish filets, the cooking time will vary depending on the thickness.

4. Place fish on a heated platter; serve at once.

Thanks to EuroUSA.net, purveyor of fine fish, for tipping us off to the wonderful walleye.

Raw bay scallops make a healthful and
delicious starter. Photo courtesy Arch Foods.

Both sea scallops and the smaller bay scallops are delicious raw. Bay scallops have an even sweeter, more delicate flavor that is wonderful plain, with no seasoning whatsoever (although some people enjoy a squeeze of lemon or lime).

In fact, we think they taste best when raw. In season, you can find them at sushi bars, served gunkan-style (wrapped in a seaweed “boat”) or in a cucumber cup.

Bay scallops are what most people picture when they think of scallops. The fluted shells are between two and three inches wide. Sea scallops have much larger, saucer-sized shells that are very flat, without flutes.

For a light first course—that just happens to be nutritious and low in calories—serve raw scallops. If your family doesn’t like the idea of “raw,” call it “scallop sashimi” or use the Italian word, “crudo.”

You can serve the scallops family-style on a platter, or as individual servings atop a lettuce leaf, watercress, shredded cucumber, tomato concasse or other salad vegetable. Think beyond the plate: The scallops will look terrific in a Martini glass or glass dessert dish.

How To Buy Scallops

It’s always best to buy seafood the day you plan to use it. When you buy fresh scallops, they should have a clean scent and no “fishy” aroma.

The scallops also should be beige, not white.

White scallops indicate treatment with sodium tripolyphosphate (STP). STP is a safe food additive that is used to prevent the scallops from drying out. But it also increases the weight of the scallops by causing them to absorb excess water. You want to pay for scallop meat, not water. Plus, if you cook them, over-treated scallops won’t brown when seared; and the delightful fresh flavor will be impacted.

A little STP is okay. But if the scallops look artificially white and/or are oozing a milky liquid, they’ve been over-treated with STP.

Another scallop-buying tip: Avoid jumbo “scallops” that are not scallops but less expensive skate wings. When scallops are in short supply (or for other unscrupulous reasons), fishmongers can punch round “scallops” from skate. In addition to their large size, another giveaway is that the scallops look like they’re falling apart.

Scallop Nutrition

Scallops are low in calories: 31 calories per ounce, or just 93 calories for a three-ounce starter portion, which delivers 6 grams of protein.

Scallops are a very good source of phosphorus and selenium, and a good source of calcium, copper, iron, magnesium, potassium, vitamin B12 and zinc.

Seafood does have cholesterol (15 mg/ounce), but no saturated fat. Enjoy!

More scallop recipes.

Try striped bass for a change. Photo courtesy
EuroUSA.

Some fish get more respect than others. The media are filled with recipes for cod, halibut, trout, salmon, sea bass, snapper and tilapia.

What about the striped bass*, a coastal water denizen that happens to be the state fish of Maryland, Rhode Island and South Carolina, and the state saltwater fish of New Hampshire, New York and Virginia?

Native to the coasts of eastern North America, the bass live as far north as the St. Lawrence River in Canada to the St. Johns River in northern Florida. They are also found throughout the northern Gulf of Mexico.

Once fished to dangerously low levels, the population has recovered and is now found in record numbers. Right now, an abundance of wild striped bass from Maryland and Virginia are in markets. Plentitude means lower prices, so they’re a great buy.

*Also called Atlantic striped bass, linesiders, rockfish and stripers, among other names.

Fish Facts
Though wild striped bass can grow to six feet in length (and may live up to 30 years!), what’s in the market are fillets cut from smaller, three-to-five-pound whole fish.

Striped bass are also farmed in a hybrid of striped bass and white bass. But there’s no need to look for farmed fish when the real deal is waiting for you. (See a discussion of the difference between wild and farmed fish.)

Thanks to Euro USA Fresh Seafood for this ultra-easy recipe. Pair it with a sauvignon blanc or a Chablis.

SEARED WILD STRIPED BASS RECIPE

Ingredients

 
Preparation

1. Take the fish out of the refrigerator 10 to 15 minutes before preparing.

2. Pat the skin dry with a paper towel and season the fish on both sides with salt and pepper.

3. Heat olive oil in a large sauté pan over high heat.

4. Coat the bottom of another slightly smaller sauté pan with olive oil (you can use a less expensive oil here—it’s just to keep the pan from burning). Gently place fish fillets skin side down in the larger sauté pan and place the smaller sauté pan directly on top of the fish. This technique creates a lovely crispy fish skin by gently pressing the skin of the bass onto the bottom of the sauté pan.

5. After a couple of minutes, remove the top sauté pan to allow steam to escape and the skin to become very crispy.

6. As fish cooks, it turns from translucent to opaque. Cook the fish two-thirds of the way on the skin side and flip it over for the last third of the cooking time. The rule for fish is about 7 to 8 minutes per inch of thickness, a little less if you like your fish more on the rare side (as we do!).
 
Serve the bass with your favorite vegetables. We followed the photo and went Asian-style, with steamed snow peas, edamame and water chestnuts tossed with a bit of olive oil and yuzu juice. Include a side of whole grain (barley, brown rice, quinoa or whole wheat pasta tossed in olive oil) and a salad, and you’ve got a delicious, healthful dinner.

Any Cole Porter fan knows about shad roe,* but how many have tasted it?

It’s shad roe season, trumpeting the eagerly anticipated delicacy that is available for about three weeks each year. The season is short because as the waters get warmer with the coming of spring, the shad swim upriver to spawn. The more they swim, the leaner they become; hence the need to catch them at the beginning of their sojurn.

One champion of shad is Sandy Ingber, executive chef at the Grand Central Oyster Bar & Restaurant in New York City, who always lands the first shad of the season. He served the first shad and shad roe last Thursday, flown in from Georgia, and estimates there will be shad through April.

“Shad is here, and I look forward to this delicacy every February at this time,” says Chef Ingber. “The inside ‘porcupine’ is delicious, and the roe is so delicate and wonderful that people come from all over the world to enjoy this treat.” Some fans reserve the roe from their fishmonger, so as not to be caught empty handed when the limited supplies arrive.

Fresh-caught shad, beloved for its flesh and its roe. Photo by Jordan Rusev | IST.

(Gosh, don’t you wish you could be a global locavore, following seasonal foods all around the world?)

The Lenape Native American tribe referred to shad as the “inside-out porcupine” because of its many bones. One reason it is such a delicacy is that few restaurants have the expertise it takes to filet and de-bone a shad. (Watch out, Top Chef contestants.) Another is the delicate roe.

*From “Let’s Do It (Let’s Fall In Love).”

Shad roe. Photo by Docku | Wikimedia.

What Is A Shad?

Shad, or river herring, belong to the same scientific family as conventional herring (Clupeidae). Several shad species can be found on both sides of the Atlantic Ocean and in the Mediterranean and Caspian Seas. Most species are found in freshwater only during spawning, while others are only found in landlocked freshwater.

The American shad spends the majority of its life in salt water but returns to its river birthplace to breed in freshwater. It is a boney fish, typically three to five pounds. While its flesh is eaten, it is prized for its eggs, the shad roe.

Shad roe is not the prettiest food, either raw or cooked. In both instances, it visually resembles liver rather than fish. The flavor, however, is delicate—not at all fishy, an attribute some people ascribe to caviar and other roe. In fact, the flavor is so subtle that, like most delicate fish, it easily takes on the flavor of ingredients cooked with it—bacon, capers, mushrooms and onions, for example.

While shad roe is not that high in calories,† it is high in cholesterol: about 500 milligrams per modest three-ounce serving (similar to calf’s or beef liver).

Then there’s the added cholesterol: bacon, often cooked with the shad, and the butter in which it is cooked. But it’s a once-a-year splurge.

Call up the best seafood house in town to see if they have shad roe. Or, cash in those miles and head to the Grand Central Oyster Bar. In the words of Cole Porter, “Why ask if shad do it—Waiter bring me shad roe!”

Or, call your local fishmonger, beg for a piece and try these two recipes from The New York Times.

 
†One cup of shad roe, an average portion, has about 375 calories.

Chervil has been called “the gourmet’s parsley.” A more delicate flavor than parsley, it has a faint note of licorice. Photo courtesy SXC.

THE NIBBLE’s Chef Johnny Gnall advises: When it comes to cooking, not all herbs are created equal. Some have more delicate flavors and can be lost if cooked the wrong way or paired with foods that are too bold. Conversely, some herbs are so flavorful and strong that if used in excess, they can overshadow proteins and produce alike.

Centuries ago, French chefs initiated the term “fines herbs” (pronounced “feen erb”), to designate the more delicate herbs. The category generally includes chervil, chives, parsley and tarragon, though it has been known to also include marjoram, savory and a few others, depending on whom you’re asking. This designation is widely acknowledged by chefs around the world: If a recipe calls for “fines herbs,” you can assure it will include the aforementioned four.

Less official, though no less helpful, is a designation used by chef Jan Birnbaum of Epic Roasthouse in San Francisco, among others. He designates the term “big herbs” to refer to those herbs whose flavors can stand up to heartier meats and vegetables. These “big herbs” include sage, rosemary and oregano, herbs that are very much at home in a roast house such as Epic.

To be consistent with the American term, “big herbs,” we’ll now switch from the French fines herbes to fine herbs.

FRESH VS. DRIED HERBS

These herbs, be they “fine” or “big,” are best used in their fresh states to enjoy their truest flavors. Dried herbs tend to have more concentrated flavors, stronger on the palate than their fresh counterparts. You can typically add them to a recipe earlier in the cooking process, as their concentrated strength will stand up to the heat of cooking.

When cooking with fresh herbs, on the other hand, it is typically best to wait until as late as possible to add them to a recipe, when the cooking process will have a greater effect on their flavor and what chefs call “brightness”—generally the reason one cooks with fresh herbs in the first place.

That being said, each has its place in the cooking process; even if you are cooking with fine herbs, using a more delicate protein will allow you to cook them without losing their flavor. With bigger herbs, on the other hand, you can more or less throw caution to the wind: they can handle being roughed up a bit. Here are two recipes, one for fine herbs and one for big ones, utilizing the strengths of each to help crate a delicious dish:

RECIPE: FINE HERBS-STUFFED SOLE

Sole is a more delicate fish and will be complemented nicely by fine herbs. Moreover, the use of the herbs in both stuffing and basting in this recipe will give them even more help in holding up to cooking: strength in numbers, one might say.

Ingredients

Marjoram: another of the “fine herbs.” Photo by Zsuzsanna Kilián | SXC.

 
Preparation

1. Chop herbs and whisk into aïoli, reserving a teaspoon of each. Add lemon juice to taste, until you achieve desired acidity and brightness.
2. Lay sole filets on a foil-covered baking sheet and season with salt and pepper.
3. Using a spoon or spatula, place a generous dollop of herb aïoli at one end of each filet.
4. Roll up filets so that the herbs are in the center, and secure with a toothpick.
5. Add your reserved herbs to the melted butter and brush each filet generously.
6. Bake at 350°F for 20 to 25 minutes. Baste with herb butter once or twice throughout the baking process.
7. Remove toothpick before serving.

RECIPE: BIG HERBS-CRUSTED LAMB LOIN

The crust you get on this lamb recipe is absolutely scrumptious. If seasoned and seared properly, it will be crunchy and herbaceous, giving way to tender, medium-rare lamb beneath. This is the beauty of big herbs: they can stand up to lamb’s flavor as well as the searing process. Some of the herbs may char a bit here and there, but overall it works quite well with the dominant flavors in the dish.

Ingredients

 
Preparation
1. Chop garlic and all herbs, combine, and set aside.
2. Using your hands, rub the loin generously with the olive oil and butter mixture, making sure to coat the entire surface.
3. Spread your herb/garlic mixture on a cutting board and roll the lamb loin around in it to create a crust. The better you cover the loin, the more flavor you will get.
4. Season all sides generously with salt and pepper.
5. In a large sauté pan on high heat, heat the oil; sear lamb loin on all sides. This will take roughly 5 minutes; do your best to leave the lamb alone as it sears in order to achieve a nice, crispy crust. A little smoke is okay, as the herbs may burn slightly; just don’t allow it to get to a point where smoke is pouring from the pan. (This step can also be done on a grill.)
6. Finish the lamb in the oven, baking at 400°F for 20 minutes. Remove and let rest for 10 minutes before slicing and serving.

Most people make a new year’s resolution to eat healthier.

So we’re starting the new year with a way to turn that family favorite—mayonnaise-laden tuna salad (or chicken salad)—into a healthy dish, rather than one filled with calories and cholesterol.

Yes, it means giving up the mayo. If you need to take baby steps, just prepare this healthy recipe every other time you make tuna salad. In your regular recipe, gradually lower the percentage of mayo and ease in some heart-healthy olive oil or canola oil. A flavored oil—chile oil or garlic oil, for example—is a big help.

If you need more healthy eating assistance, check out these three cookbooks, which take much of the fat and calories out of favorite recipes.

Do You Know The Different Types Of Tuna Fish?

Good Fats Vs. Bad Fats
Here’s the scoop.

A new way to be creative with your food:
Tuna Bites and Salmon Bites from Fresh
Gourmet. Photo by Elvira Kalviste | THE
NIBBLE.

Fresh Gourmet makes the number one brand of croutons and salad toppings in the world: from premium croutons, to tortilla strips, nuts and fruit.

As we close out the year, we’d like to tip our hats to the company for its latest innovation: Tuna Bites and Salmon Bites.

Made in Spain, the bite-size squares of tuna and salmon have the texture of pâté, firm enough to hang onto a skewer or cocktail pick. The flavor is more elegant than canned fish. We’d call them gourmet bites.

The all-natural ingredients contain only tuna or salmon, salt, olive oil or sunflower oil, and flavors, and contain no other fish products.

 
The company suggests them as salad toppers, of course: on a bed of greens, added to a seafood salad, and so forth.

We love these little nuggets for the creativity they offer in garnishing, making snacks and canapés or other hors d’oeuvre. They make gourmet recipes for entertaining a snap.

While the products are in limited distribution at the moment (see the store locator). The website offers a $1.00 coupon for signing up for recipe emails.

Keep an eye out for Tuna Bites and Salmon Bites. They’re fun and fab. Here’s how we’ve used them so far:

Ways To Serve Tuna & Salmon Bites
We headed beyond the suggested salad topper, using the cubes of tuna and salmon:

 
We look forward to more creations in the new year. How would you use this little bites of protein?

Find more tuna and salmon recipes.

We created a Tuna Martini—or at least, a
tuna garnish for a Martini. Delicious!
Photo by Elvira Kalviste | THE NIBBLE.

Crab balls are delicious with beer, wine and
sparkling wine. Photo courtesy Jakes Crab
Shack.

In 2002, chef Chris Brandl opened a restaurant on the New Jersey shore. The cuisine is fine American fare, including wild boar chops, grilled chicken Caesar salad and his signature crab cakes.

The demand for crab cakes resulted in a casual restaurant, Jakes Crab Shack,* with crab cake sandwiches, Kobe beef burgers and lobster rolls. Keeping with food trends, there’s also a traveling food truck dishing up crab cake sandwiches.

*No write-ins from the editing police are needed: There’s no
apostrophe in Jakes.

Now, Jakes Crab Shack has gone retail.

Folks who can’t get to Belmar, New Jersey (south of Asbury Park) can get the delicious crab cakes and crab balls online, in packages of 24 one-ounce crab balls or six four-ounce crab cakes (both $42.00).

We love the crab balls for entertaining: they fit in with both casual or elegant fare, and are light enough to be enjoyed as an appetizer without filling up your guests. Serve them with sparkling wine (or beer, or any wine or sparkling water).

We also like to use crab balls to top a salad. Or, serve a trio of crab balls (or one crab cake) garnished with some greens, as a first course with your choice of cocktail sauce. For elegance, we prefer a mixture of mayonnaise, pickle relish and Dijon mustard to the red ketchup/horseradish sauce.

Treat your guests to some! Learn more at BrandlRestaurant.com.

Do You Know The Different Types Of Crab?

Here’s all you need to know about crab, including which type of crab meat to use for what recipes, and the different species.

Make your own crab cakes with this recipe. Also try the crab cheesecake—a great hors d’oeuvre or first course.