Our colleague Hannah Kaminsky of Bittersweet Blog wondered about the old-fashioned confection variously known as:
Angel food candy (Wisconsin)
Cinder toffee (Canada and U.K.)
Dalgona (South Korea)
Fairy food candy (Chicago, Wisconsin)
Hokey pokey (New Zealand)
Honeycomb candy (Australia, South Africa, U.K.)
Honeycomb toffee (Australia)
Old fashioned puff (Massachusetts)
Puff candy (Scotland)
Sea foam (California, Maine, Michigan, Oregon, Utah, Pacific Northwest)
Sponge candy (Buffalo and Western New York (photos #1 and #2); Milwaukee, Wisconsin; St. Paul, Minnesota; and Northwest Pennsylvania)
Sponge toffee (U.K.) and tire éponge (sponge candy in French-speaking Canada)
Törökméz, Turkish honey (Hungary)
….and, no doubt, other names in other places [source].
They all describe a confection that’s crunchy, crisp in the center, and melts in your mouth.
While there’s no molasses in it, the caramelization of the sugar gives it a bit of molasses flavor. You can have it covered in chocolate, or not.
Hannah wondered: “Where did all those names come from, and why did they keep renaming the exact same candy?” She set out on a mission to make her own.
“I cooked and caramelized, stirred and stewed, bubbled, boiled, and crystallized my very own sweet. If anything, what I created was even darker and more powerful than the old-fashioned candies you can purchase.
“I used cocoa and dark chocolate, of course, and cacao nibs for extra crunch. But the real secret ingredient here is chocolate extract.”
The spongy airiness of the candy is based on the middle school volcano trick demonstrated in science class: Baking soda plus vinegar equals bubbles.
You’ll have a mini-volcano in your mixing bowl in Step 5, below. It’s fun, as long as you’re forewarned.
As with Chocolate Matzoh, a.k.a. Matza Toffee, a.k.a. Matzo Buttercrunch, a.k.a. whatever, sponge candy is a treat you can make for Passover.
But don’t make it in the summer heat and humidity and plan to serve it at a picnic or barbecue. If you need a fix, make it and eat it in the comfort of your air-conditioned home.
Ready to make some four-chocolate sponge candy (photos #3 and #4)?
 and  Sponge candy from Watson’s Chocolates in Buffalo, New York, a town famous for its sponge candy.  You can find sponge candy worldwide, often under different names. This angel food candy is from Kitch Me in Australia.